DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9

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DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 2/25/2010 12:01 AM

papajeff

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THE DeNIGHT SPECIAL 50 ARF by HANGAR 9
has recently arrived at Horizon Hobby. This model is an exciting sport-scale ARF delivering a
tremendous flying experience with a nostalgic feel, (that sounds good to me) and comes complete
with a traditional trim scheme and matching helmeted pilot. The DeNight is offered with all the
necessary parts for either glow or electric power. I decided on the clean, quiet, dependable and
powerful ELECTRIC option.



                                   Now, let's take a look at the build of this unique

"NO BULL" ELECTRIC PYLON RACER!

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 2/25/2010 12:47 AM

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DeNight Special Specs:

Wingspan:	58.5 in (1486mm)
Overall Length:	45.4 in (1153mm)
Wing Area:	626 sq in (40.4 sq dm)
Flying Weight:	6.25–7 lb (2.8–3.2 kg)
Engine Size:	.46–.52 2-stroke.72–.82 4-stroke
Motor Size:	Power 46 brushless
Radio:	4–6 channels
Servos:	5 standard servos (4 servos for EP)
Trim Scheme Colors:	Flame Red (HANU883), Cream (HANU878)

Needed to Complete

Glow Power
• 4+ channel radio system with 5 servos
• Engine
• Propeller and spinner

Electric Power
• 4+ channel radio system with 4 servos
• Electric motor
• Speed control
• Battery pack
• Propeller and spinner

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 2/25/2010 12:55 AM

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Overview:
"During the 1950's and 60's, Bart DeNight's one-of-a-kind Formula 1 speedster was a force
to be reconed with on the full-scale air racing curcuit. Peter Bergstrom's design team, at Hangar 9,
has wonderfully captured the look and feel of the DeNight Special with this exciting sport-scale ARF.
Designed to accept a wide range of glow and electric powerplants, the DeNight Special ARF will give
you all the speed and thrills you would expect of a scale-looking air racer without any of the tricky flight
characteristics. Assembly takes just a few evenings and most of the details, such as the authentic
trim scheme and painted pilot figure, are already added for you."

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 2/25/2010 1:25 AM

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KEY FEATURES:

-    Authentic UltraCote trim scheme is a realistic reproduction of the paint scheme
     on the full-scale version flown by Bart DeNight himself.

-   Prepainted fiberglass cowl provides ample room for side mounting the ESC on
     the motor mount and in the cooling airflow.

- Two-piece plug-in wing makes for shorter assembly time and is especially
     convenient for storage and transport.

- Painted pilot head included.

- Motor mount for electric motor is included.

-   Removable top hatch for easy access to electronics.

-   Pre-hinged ailerons and rudder.

-   All control horns installed.

-   Painted fiberglass cowl and wheel pants.

- All necessary hardware in included.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/1/2010 1:13 AM

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PACKAGING:

Most builds, and/or reviews, usually state an assessment of the manner in which the model
was packed, inside the cardboard box with all the beautiful pictures on it, so it might survive
the usual kind and respectfull treatment that the carton gets during shipping. Yeah, right?

Now, let me tell you that Hangar 9 gets the award of merrit for being a "MASTER PACKER!"
The typical brown cardboard outer box, with all the labels on it stating "FRAGILE" or
"HANDLE WITH CARE" (most often misunderstood for CRUSH THIS BOX!) is heavy enough
to take normal (if there is such a thing) shipping stresses. The inner box (the one with the
nice pictures) is a work of art and looks like it was designed and hand made, just for that
specific model. Hey, just take a look at the photos below.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/1/2010 7:56 PM

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Just a few more photos in this disertation on;

"How to Package an RC Model Airplane so that it Arrives Without Damage!"

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/1/2010 8:07 PM

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Once all the major parts were layed out, I was surprised that there are actually just a few.

Fuselage
L & R Main Wings
Elevator
Rudder
Landing Gear, Wheel Pants, Wheels
Cowl
Hardware bags

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/9/2010 11:26 PM

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COLOR-MATCH YOUR FUSELAGE INTERIOR

As I was just about to start the build, one of my Pals (actually, one of the best modelers in the Hobby)
Paul Weigand, came up with a brilliant idea that I want to tell you about. If you are like Paul and me,
(you are in serious trouble, for sure) and do not like the raw plywood look of the fuselage interior, servo
tray, motor mount, firewall, canopy frame and so on, Paul found the color-matched soultion.

So, just go to your local Home Depot with a color sample from your plane, like the tail or elevator, and
have the paint department guy mix you up a sample pint. You can choose from matte to gloss finish
and either latex or acrylic and best of all it's only $2.95 for a perfect match. Another option is to go to
your local craft store (Michaels, AC Moore) with your color sample and look in the paint department
where you will find little 2fl. oz. plastic bottles of acrylic paint in every color and shade that you could
imagine, for about one dollar. Just take a look at the before and after shots of the DeNight and you
be the judge.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/15/2010 8:49 PM

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ASSEMBLY - LANDING GEAR & WHEELPANTS

Now that we are all color-coordinated we can start the build. The manual, Hangar 9 is known for totally
complete and extensive instructions, starts with the landing gear. The individual, labeled parts bags are
nice and everything is accounted for. First attch the axles to the gear legs, but read the NOTE: with photo
which explains to align the hex on the base of the axle vertically to the leg so that the wheel pant can be
installed properly. Then make sure that you file two flat spots for the wheel collars to really grab the axel
and be sure to use threadlock on the grub screw.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/16/2010 6:58 AM

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Place the wheel collars as instructed in the drawing. Obviously, the wheel goes between both wheel
collars and be sure that the wheel is able to turn freely. Then, the wheel pants just slip on over the
wheel and axle and is secured with the included 4-40 x 3/8-inch Allen head screw. Again, a drop of
threadlock (I use Pacer Z-42) insures that the attachment is secure. Those retro pants look GOOD!

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/17/2010 12:36 AM

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I'm building one as well for a review, and have found that the paint chips and lifts very easily from the landing gear when tightening down the bolts. My H9 Taylorcraft was the same way. Did yours do the same, especially the gear-to-fuse bolts? I'm not over tightening them either. Is it possible that the aluminum is not being prepped correctly for paint? I have never seen paint come off so easily.

_____________________________

When you stare into the abyss, sometimes the abyss stares right back into you.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/17/2010 1:12 AM

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I did get a few chips when I tightened the axle nut and also found a few crush marks around the washer
of the Allen head screws that hold the pant to the gear legs. Around the gear to fuselage mounting bolts,
I did not have any chips at all. My Toledo Special and a Nitro Pole Cat gear legs, did just about the same
as the DeNight.

You could be correct about the aluminum not being prepared properly before painting, but I believe that it
is more of a "pressure" issue created by the torque of bolt tightening. Because I usually use locktight for high
stress areas, I basically tighten to a "FIRM" position and then go just a bit more. This is a "FEEL" type of thing
and I'm sure that any two of us modelers would do it slightly different. Since I had my can of color-matched paint,
I just dabbed the few bald spots and that was that.

Did you get a lot of paint chipping off the gear legs?

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/24/2010 1:02 AM

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TAIL INSTALLATION

The tail installation is next and starts with the horizontal stabilizer. Put a piece of colored tape on the bottom
of the stabilizer and both elevators, as you will need to know top from bottom. Once the stabilizer has been
inserted into the slot in the fuselage, be sure to square left and right from fuse to tip (@ 8 5/8" on each side)
as well as trailing edge tips to cowl mounting block with a string. Once it's all lined up properly, then mark top
and bottom along the fuse sides and remove. NOW.....cut the covering 1/8" INSIDE your marks!!
This leaves an overlap of covering which makes the seam look perfect and still leaves enough raw balsa to
make a good glue joint.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/24/2010 10:20 PM

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Find your parts bag, labeled Rudder & Elevator, and remove the wire elevator joiner. Then scuff
each short leg with some sandpaper to help the Epoxy form a strong bond. Clean with rubbing
alcohol and insert the joiner in the rear of the stabilizer slot as shown in the photo. Mix up some
epoxy {5 min was good for me, but if you need more time, 30 min is OK} and apply a thin layer to
the bare wood, Now insert the horizontal stab in the slot and make sure that it is pushed all the
way forward and re-check the measurements to make sure it is in the proper position. Any excess
epoxy can be cleaned up with a paper towel and some rubbing alcohol.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/24/2010 10:43 PM

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Make sure the epoxy has set properly on the stab before you start hinging the elevator halves. Everyone
has their own favorite way to install CA hinges, so go for it. I like to use "T" pins to center each hinge in
the moving surface (no CA yet!) and then tape some folded waxed paper on each side of the stab
next to the fuse. This will prevent excess epoxy from gluing the joiner or elevator to the stab.

Mix up your epoxy and appply it, with a toothpick, to the groove and joiner hole in one elevator half. Then
slide the elevator onto the joiner while sliding the hinges into their corrresponding slots in the stab. Now,
allign the elevator tip with the tip of the stab and you got it! OK, now do the other elevator half. Don't
worry if the hinge gap is very small, because once the epoxy sets on the joiner wire.................it's time to
CA (I used ZAP thin) all the hinges on both elevator halves! Again, this is just my way of doing it.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/24/2010 11:22 PM

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Now do the horizontal tail in the same manner, but surprise.......the rudder is already hinged and the tail
wheel is attached. Thank you Hangar 9.................nice touch!

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/26/2010 12:39 AM

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SERVO PREPARATION

The rudder and elevator servos were a breeze to install as the equipment bay is HUGE.
The JR DS-821 servos were prepared by installing the rubber grommets and brass bushings.

      TIP: If you have as much trouble as I do with pressing in those little brass bushings
               with your thumb........here is a neat remedy.  Find a little awl and use it to insert
               the bushings as shown in the photos below.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/26/2010 1:04 AM

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ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVO

OK, back to the servos. Now, be sure to follow the instructions on page 13 of the Manual, Step 4-7,
which refers to the type, length & position of the servo arms (3 are included with each servo). Then
insert both pushrods thru the hole in the center of the firewall and into their respective, pre-installed
sleeves.

Prep the pre-drilled servo holes in the tray by screwing one of the servo mounting screws into
and back out of each hole. Now add 1 or 2 drops of ZAP thin CA to each hole. Place the servos in
their mounting holes (rudder on the left side and elevator on the right) and secure with the mounting
screws. Place the bent ends of the pushrods in the servo arm and secure with the provided keepers.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/26/2010 10:49 PM

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JR MatchMaker

Now, since we have been discussing how to prepare servos for installation, I have a neat little
item for you to look at. It's the JR MatchMaker (JRP915).
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=JRPA915

1. This unit is designed to provide ultra -precise centering of up to two servos
during setup of the control systems, without having to hook up your Tx and Rx.
2. It allows for the cycling of up to two separate servos at a time at variable speed rates.
3. It is perfect for finding erratic servo behavior in the cycling mode.

There are four ports; 1 & 2 are for variable speed servo cycling and 3 & 4 are for servo
centering and positioning the servo at any point in it's travel. A very handy and convenient
way to center new servos; (A) right out of the box before preping for installation, (B) for re-
centering your servos after being installed and hooked up to the control rod and (C) for
checking the travel of your flying surfaces so that you can manually adjust the neutral
position which makes trim adjustments on the maiden flight much easier! See, with
a MatchMaker we have already made your bench work much more accurate and fun,
right? Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh...................Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/26/2010 11:29 PM

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AILERON SERVO & LINKAGE

The aileron servo and linkage installation is pretty straight forward. Again, follow the instructions
especially with respect to the proper length of the servo arms. This is your typical "mount the servos
to the servo cover with the two little hardwood mounting blocks." The instructions suggest 30min epoxy,
but I used, and have used, CA without any issues. The choice is yours.

Pre-screw your hatch mounting screw holes, then back out the screws and add a few drops of CA
(ZAP fills the GAP) and you are good to go. The instructions called for two 9" extensions, but I went
with the (JRPA097) 12" ones as I like a little extra length so receiver placement is not an issue.

ANOTHER TIP: What is that purple handled, wheelee thing, you ask? Well, it is a "Tracing Wheel"
and if you have the nerve, go to any fabric store and get yourself one. Then use the wheel to
make criss-cross marks on any wood or foam surafce that you want to glue or CA. It definately
makes for a much better bond. Enlarge the third photo from the left, top row, and see the indents.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/31/2010 6:46 AM

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COOLING EXIT

The cooling exit hole needs to be cut out and you can see the outline of the opening thru the covering
on the bottom of the fuselage. Cut the covering about 1/4" inside the actual opening and use a trim
sealing iron to form the covering to the inside of the cutout. It's easier if you make some diagonal
cuts at each corner of the flap that is left, before you start to seal the covering back.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/31/2010 7:00 AM

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MOTOR & ESC INSTALLATION

The recommended motor is the E-flight Power 46 mated with the E-flight 60Amp ESC. The motor
mount outer holes need to enlarged to 11/64 of an inch to accommodate the 8-32 x 2 1/4" machine
screws which attach the standoffs to the blind nuts in the firewall. Then attach the motor mount
to the motor with the four countersunk maching screws. Don't forget to use some threadlock.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/31/2010 7:14 AM

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FIREWALL PREP

Hangar 9 includes a great little firewall drilling template which identifies the correct holes for
either electric or glow power. Just pilot drill the proper hole pattern, remove the pattern and
enlarge the holes to 13/64 of an Inch.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 3/31/2010 7:19 AM

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MOTOR & ESC MOUNTING

Press fit the four 8-32 blind nuts into place in the back of the firewall, in the holes just drilled.
Use the standoffs and machine screws to draw the blind nuts into place as the motor mount
is attached to the firewall. Then I mounted the ESC to the lower portion of the bulkhead with
velcro, connected the leads to the motor and secured the leads to the standoffs with small
cable ties.

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RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF by Hangar 9 - 4/13/2010 5:06 PM

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COWL, PROP & SPINNER

I really like the look of the retro cowl with the large cheeks. I just had to cover the air intake holes
with some screen patch that I found laying around my shop. I really like the look of the screen as
opposed to just the large openings, don't you? The cowl has four pre-drilled holes which
correspond to four mounting blocks, with "T" nuts already installed, attached to the firewall.
Just line up the cowl holes with the block holes and secure it with the provided hardware.

Since I'll be using a 13 X 10E prop, from Nitro Hobby http://www.nitroplanes.com/prsp.html which
has a thick hub, I needed to use a 2 1/2" spinner with a very thin backplate. I found one in my parts
box and decided to paint it silver chrome, just to be a little different. BTW, take a good look at those
composite props at Nitro, made by EMT, as I think they will become very popular due to the beefy
hub, the power tips and the good price.

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