Posts: 158
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: WITHAM, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Sorry, little off-topic but it's made from Correx which knowone's heard of on the boat forums!
Having a break from Planes, after severing 2 fingers on my left hand while running-in a new RCV-58 4-stroke, I fancied making somthing that's powered by the wind!
I've built half a dozen real yachts using GRP and have always wanted a Wharram Polynesian Catamaran. So that's what I desided to made a model of.
I can get two 48" long hulls from one sheet 4ft X 3ft. After folding and gluing the ends, the middle has to be opened up and a few bulheads inserted. On the first attempt, the CA glue joint came apart. I removed all the glue with sandpaper, Acetone and re-flashed it. Second attempt seems to be holding. There really is a lot of stress at these points. The front and rear seams really need a nice thick fillet of something really strong. Will Epoxy stick to the Correx???
The two wooden strips - rubbing strakes at the gunwhales stuck OK and the decking will be glued to them and to the top of the 3 0r 4 bulkheads. Should then be a nice strong structure.
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Steve Carey/G4MJW http://www.kon-tiki.freeserve.co.uk
Posts: 158
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: WITHAM, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
The Hulls are not as light in weight as I thought they'd be. Could probably have used 2mm but it's 4mm round here or nothing!
The "Flutes" are exposed at the ends so I will seal them with tape or some silicone sealant. The two hulls will be joined with four deck beams and the deck cabin "Pod" will sit attached to the two middle beams and will be full width. The Pod will house the radio gear/batteries etc. The hulls will be empty and I may fill them with foam.
I really am keeping away from ENGINES at the moment until at least I regain full use of my left hand!
This is what the "Real" Wharram type Cat looks like:
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Steve Carey/G4MJW http://www.kon-tiki.freeserve.co.uk
Posts: 158
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: WITHAM, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Don't know. At the moment I have one end of each hull "sprung" apart. We don't have all the fancy different CA Glues here, just standard SupaGlue which has the consistency of water and "SupaGlue Gell". Need thicker glue with gap filling characteristics.
I hope to get my brain working today . . . . . and may come up with a neat way of stapling or stitching it. One I get it to hold OK I'll seal it on the inside with the Marine version of "Bath" sealant.
I'll post some more pictures later.
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Steve Carey/G4MJW http://www.kon-tiki.freeserve.co.uk
Posts: 317
Joined: 2/13/2003 From: Grove, OK, Status: offline
Thanks. and good luck with your boat. Have you tried goop or welders glue? Have seen where some people are making floats for their planes and using these to water proof them.
That is the building materials page for Chesapeake Light Craft. I built one of their kayaks from plans and found the stitch-and-glue method to be an ingenious and easy way to build a boat. It is a bit pricey, but their 2 part epoxy and fiberglass tape may be the answer to your problem of joining coro and having it be waterproof.
Posts: 158
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: WITHAM, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
Thanks all for gluing info. Goop and welders glue is not available here. I've not been able to find Thick or medium CA either. All we have is "Locktight" SuperGlue and also the gel version.
I have tried West Epoxy and various Epoxies used in R/C Plane contruction and whilst they are very strong, they all parted company with one surface of the Corro leaving it completely free of any glue!
I experimented with Bathroom sealant on some scraps of Correx mounted and joined at a 45° angle. This stuff is desinged for use on uPVC windows and most plastics. Well, amazing. I tried to pull the two pieces apart. The white Sealant stretched but did not break or show any signs of parting from the Correx.
So this is what I've done to keep the Hull ends together. I've glued the ends with CA. I taped the ends while setting and so they don't spring apart when I open up the hull. I've put a THICK fillet of bathroom sealant down the front and back ends and well into the bottom for extra strength and to keep the water out. I've Epoxied the side strips (rubbing strake) together where they meet at the ends. I will leave the "test" Hull overnight and then try and pull it apart after all the glues have had 24 hours to fully cure.
Fingers crossed . . . . . . .
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Steve Carey/G4MJW http://www.kon-tiki.freeserve.co.uk
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Joined: 7/16/2002 From: Conrad,
MT, USA Status: offline
Woodpecker the coro where they meet, and use poly glue genourously spritzed with water to make the glue expand. This will not only waterproof the area, but make a very strong seam as well. Elmer's ProBond is what I use. Once Poly glue is set up, it is unphased by water. In fact, a few drops in a cup of water will cure overnight.
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Randy Rossmiller, proud husband of Terrorist Hunter www.shannenrossmiller.com
Posts: 158
Joined: 1/12/2003 From: WITHAM, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
The test hull is now made. Initially secured the ends with CA glue. Then epoxied the two ends of the rubbing strake together. The sealed all the seams on the inside with white slicone bathroom sealant. This sealant is great for bonding thing to uPVC and Corro.
I've also cut and fitted three bulkheads made from 3mm plywood. This Hull is very light in weight but very strong.
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Steve Carey/G4MJW http://www.kon-tiki.freeserve.co.uk
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SPAD Boat ! - 
