Extreme Kaos
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Extreme Kaos
I flew my first Bridi Super Kaos sometime around 1980. A local guy, Phillip Stumpf, had diabetes and was losing his eyesight. He had come out to watch me and the guy that taught me to fly, fly our RC planes. He told me about his "old" plane and wanted to know if I would fly it for him. He brought it out the next day. It had a K&B .61 with an EK Logictrol radio, the same engine and radio I had on my Lanier Comet II which I soloed on a few years prior to that.
The airplane was fast! I loved how responsive it was and when I cut the throttle back, the thing floated like nobody's business. I was hooked! Since then I have built two Super Kaos', two Ultimate Kaos', one Utter Kaos and one Killer Kaos. I have also built a Bridi Dirty Birdy.
My second Super Kaos had Southern Pro Retracts. I love retracts but they are a major pain to setup. The other Kaos' I set up as tail draggers with aluminum main gear.
There are a few things I liked and didn't like about each model so I set out to design my own "Extreme Kaos". Here are the things I have changed:
1. The Super Kaos' fuselage is wider than the other models and I like that but it is not very tall. On my design, I leave the fueselage about the same width as the Super Kaos but make it taller (deeper).
2. I like the wingspan on the Super Kaos but the other models' spans are too long. I want to keep the shorter wing span for quicker roll rates.
3. I hate seeing landing gear hanging off of a plane when it is flying but I don't want to mess with retracts so I decided to go with a tail dragger with wheel pants.
4. The Super Kaos' tail moment is too short for my taste (that is the distance from the center of the wing to the center of the horizontal stab to put it simply). The length of the fuselage on the other models is better so I will go with the longer fuselage.
I had wing ribs laser cut about three or four years ago and just sat on this project. I decided a couple months ago to get going on it. I can't remember who cut the ribs but they did a fantastic job. I will post photos as I get on with the construction. I have the wing just about ready to carve wing tips and the fuselage is ready for me to build a cowl. In the next post, I will get started with construction photos.
The airplane was fast! I loved how responsive it was and when I cut the throttle back, the thing floated like nobody's business. I was hooked! Since then I have built two Super Kaos', two Ultimate Kaos', one Utter Kaos and one Killer Kaos. I have also built a Bridi Dirty Birdy.
My second Super Kaos had Southern Pro Retracts. I love retracts but they are a major pain to setup. The other Kaos' I set up as tail draggers with aluminum main gear.
There are a few things I liked and didn't like about each model so I set out to design my own "Extreme Kaos". Here are the things I have changed:
1. The Super Kaos' fuselage is wider than the other models and I like that but it is not very tall. On my design, I leave the fueselage about the same width as the Super Kaos but make it taller (deeper).
2. I like the wingspan on the Super Kaos but the other models' spans are too long. I want to keep the shorter wing span for quicker roll rates.
3. I hate seeing landing gear hanging off of a plane when it is flying but I don't want to mess with retracts so I decided to go with a tail dragger with wheel pants.
4. The Super Kaos' tail moment is too short for my taste (that is the distance from the center of the wing to the center of the horizontal stab to put it simply). The length of the fuselage on the other models is better so I will go with the longer fuselage.
I had wing ribs laser cut about three or four years ago and just sat on this project. I decided a couple months ago to get going on it. I can't remember who cut the ribs but they did a fantastic job. I will post photos as I get on with the construction. I have the wing just about ready to carve wing tips and the fuselage is ready for me to build a cowl. In the next post, I will get started with construction photos.
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RE: Extreme Kaos
Well, I am learning how to use these forums. I just spent some time posting the first ten steps to building an Extreme Kaos and somehow lost everything before it was posted. So here goes again.
The wing ribs are laser cut and are still attached to the 1/8" balsa sheet from which they were cut. Remove the ribs and get ready to build!
1. Cut out the wing jig alignment holes using a hobby knife. Photo 1
2. There are ten ribs for each wing panel. Number each rib from one (the largest, wing root rib) to ten (the smallest, wing tip rib). Using a ruler, mark a center line on both sides of each rib, on the leading edge and trailing edge. Photo 2
3. Take both sets of 1 and 2 ribs and line them up using the arrow shaft jig holes. Use a very small drop of CA to glue the ribs together. Draw a straight line from the center line of the ribs to the top inside corner of the spar cutout. Photo 3
4. 3/4" from the leading edge of the ribs, mark a 2" line and draw lines to the bottom of the wing ribs perpendicular to the line you drew in Step 3. Photo 4
5. Using a hobby saw, cut along the short lines, then use a hobby knife to cut along the long line to remove the material for the landing gear mount. Using a hobby knife, separate the two wing ribs. Repeat steps for the other wing. Photo 5
6. Place wax paper over the wing plans and place one of the ½" x ½" x 36" wing spars in place over the plans. Draw an arrow on ribs 1 and 2 pointing opposite of the landing gear mount cutout. * It is very important to build two wing sides in the right position since the taper of the wing is what determines the dihedral of the wings. Photo 6
7. *Construction will start with one wing panel and the other wing panel will be built later. Place rib 1 into position on the spar and make sure it is exactly 90 degrees to the spar and glue in place with thin CA. Photos 7 (this photo does not show the landing gear cutout. Make sure the landing gear cutout is facing up and not toward the table. The wing panel is being built upside down and the landing gear cutout should be facing up in this arrangement.) and 8
8. Place wing ribs 2 - 10 onto the wing spar into place over the plans, then slide each arrow shaft into the 1/4" arrow shaft spar holes. Twist the arrow shafts as they go in, to make them slide easier. Photo 9
9. Flip the wing ribs and arrow shafts over and rest the ends of the arrow shafts on supports that are exactly the same size, on a very flat table. * In order for the wings to build straight and true, it is very important that the supports that the arrow shafts sit on must be the same height and level. Tape the arrow shafts to keep them from moving. Photo 10
10. The arrow shafts will align the ribs. Using CA, glue each rib into place over the plans, using a straightedge to make sure each rib is 90 degrees to the spar. Photo 11
The wing ribs are laser cut and are still attached to the 1/8" balsa sheet from which they were cut. Remove the ribs and get ready to build!
1. Cut out the wing jig alignment holes using a hobby knife. Photo 1
2. There are ten ribs for each wing panel. Number each rib from one (the largest, wing root rib) to ten (the smallest, wing tip rib). Using a ruler, mark a center line on both sides of each rib, on the leading edge and trailing edge. Photo 2
3. Take both sets of 1 and 2 ribs and line them up using the arrow shaft jig holes. Use a very small drop of CA to glue the ribs together. Draw a straight line from the center line of the ribs to the top inside corner of the spar cutout. Photo 3
4. 3/4" from the leading edge of the ribs, mark a 2" line and draw lines to the bottom of the wing ribs perpendicular to the line you drew in Step 3. Photo 4
5. Using a hobby saw, cut along the short lines, then use a hobby knife to cut along the long line to remove the material for the landing gear mount. Using a hobby knife, separate the two wing ribs. Repeat steps for the other wing. Photo 5
6. Place wax paper over the wing plans and place one of the ½" x ½" x 36" wing spars in place over the plans. Draw an arrow on ribs 1 and 2 pointing opposite of the landing gear mount cutout. * It is very important to build two wing sides in the right position since the taper of the wing is what determines the dihedral of the wings. Photo 6
7. *Construction will start with one wing panel and the other wing panel will be built later. Place rib 1 into position on the spar and make sure it is exactly 90 degrees to the spar and glue in place with thin CA. Photos 7 (this photo does not show the landing gear cutout. Make sure the landing gear cutout is facing up and not toward the table. The wing panel is being built upside down and the landing gear cutout should be facing up in this arrangement.) and 8
8. Place wing ribs 2 - 10 onto the wing spar into place over the plans, then slide each arrow shaft into the 1/4" arrow shaft spar holes. Twist the arrow shafts as they go in, to make them slide easier. Photo 9
9. Flip the wing ribs and arrow shafts over and rest the ends of the arrow shafts on supports that are exactly the same size, on a very flat table. * In order for the wings to build straight and true, it is very important that the supports that the arrow shafts sit on must be the same height and level. Tape the arrow shafts to keep them from moving. Photo 10
10. The arrow shafts will align the ribs. Using CA, glue each rib into place over the plans, using a straightedge to make sure each rib is 90 degrees to the spar. Photo 11
#3
RE: Extreme Kaos
I love the Super Kaos, and had almost the same ideas on your Extreme Kaos. Maybe I will build another, probably electric powered. The picture shows the Super Kaos which I baptized as Flipper. Webra 61 LS for power. Sold when I moved last time (miss that plane )
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RE: Extreme Kaos
Ahh, she's pretty! Looks like you did the same thing with the landing gear that I've done with most of my Kaos variants.
JayMc
http://www.JayMc.com
http://rcaircraft.blogspot.com
JayMc
http://www.JayMc.com
http://rcaircraft.blogspot.com
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RE: Extreme Kaos
11. Flip the wing over and use CA to glue the bottom wing spar into place. Photo 12
12. Remove arrow shafts from wing ribs. Twist the arrow shafts to ease removal. Wing will be very straight. Photo 13
13. Take one of the ½" x 1/4" x 36" trailing edge strip and on the ½" side, using a straight edge, draw a center line down the strip.
14. Using the center line on the trailing edge strip, align the center lines that you drew on the trailing edges of the wing ribs and glue in place with CA. Trim off the excess trailing edge strip using a hobby saw.
15. Take one of the ½" x 3/4" x 36" leading edge strips and draw a center line down the 3/4" side using a straightedge like you did with the trailing edge.
16. Using the center line on the leading edge strip, align the center lines that you drew on the leading edges of the wing ribs and glue in place with CA. Trim off the excess leading edge strip using a hobby saw. Photo 14
17. Using steps 1 - 16, build the other wing panel. * It is very important that you build two exactly opposite and mirrored wing panels. To do this, follow the directions listed above but place rib 1 over rib 10 on the plans and rib 10 will be over rib 1 on the plans. The wings use the taper of the wing for the dihedral, you must build mirrored wing panels for the wings to be correct. Drawing 1
18. Trim a sheet of 1/16 x 36 inch balsa to just over the length of the wing panel, Join the piece that was trimmed off of the wing sheeting and glue it to the wing sheeting. Photo 15
19. Butt the wing sheeting up against the back of the ½" x 3/4" x 36" leading edge strip on the bottom of the wing panels with the added on piece of balsa toward the root of the wing panel. Use CA to glue the sheeting to the leading edge strip. Photo 16. Trim the wing sheeting even with the middle of the 1/2" square wing spar. * Note how the extra piece of sheeting makes up part of the sheeting toward the root of the wing panel after the sheeting is trimmed. Photo 17
20. Using thin CA, glue the sheeting to the wing ribs and to the wing spar.
12. Remove arrow shafts from wing ribs. Twist the arrow shafts to ease removal. Wing will be very straight. Photo 13
13. Take one of the ½" x 1/4" x 36" trailing edge strip and on the ½" side, using a straight edge, draw a center line down the strip.
14. Using the center line on the trailing edge strip, align the center lines that you drew on the trailing edges of the wing ribs and glue in place with CA. Trim off the excess trailing edge strip using a hobby saw.
15. Take one of the ½" x 3/4" x 36" leading edge strips and draw a center line down the 3/4" side using a straightedge like you did with the trailing edge.
16. Using the center line on the leading edge strip, align the center lines that you drew on the leading edges of the wing ribs and glue in place with CA. Trim off the excess leading edge strip using a hobby saw. Photo 14
17. Using steps 1 - 16, build the other wing panel. * It is very important that you build two exactly opposite and mirrored wing panels. To do this, follow the directions listed above but place rib 1 over rib 10 on the plans and rib 10 will be over rib 1 on the plans. The wings use the taper of the wing for the dihedral, you must build mirrored wing panels for the wings to be correct. Drawing 1
18. Trim a sheet of 1/16 x 36 inch balsa to just over the length of the wing panel, Join the piece that was trimmed off of the wing sheeting and glue it to the wing sheeting. Photo 15
19. Butt the wing sheeting up against the back of the ½" x 3/4" x 36" leading edge strip on the bottom of the wing panels with the added on piece of balsa toward the root of the wing panel. Use CA to glue the sheeting to the leading edge strip. Photo 16. Trim the wing sheeting even with the middle of the 1/2" square wing spar. * Note how the extra piece of sheeting makes up part of the sheeting toward the root of the wing panel after the sheeting is trimmed. Photo 17
20. Using thin CA, glue the sheeting to the wing ribs and to the wing spar.