Two things. Are those external tanks you are talking about? And is the part number correct? I looked on Wing Mfg's web site and could not find anything that is part #109. I'm just wanting to clarify. Thanks
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Flak, Thanks, I appreciate hearing that this thread is being followed so closely, and hope to see lots of Corsairs this coming summer which have benefitted from this thread. As for being King Creo of Corsairs, well I must admit that there are others who know more about Corsairs than me, but I will accept your coronation nontheless. As for a giant scale Corsair: I am working on a 1/7 scale F4U-1 ( 'Bird Cage', 71" span), which will be a faily accuare example of the ORIGINAL "Marine's Dream". I am hoping to have it ready for the Memorial Day weekend, so I can fly it at the Terre Haute, IN Warbird Day Fly-In. This of course is not giant scale, sorry to report that my first giant scale will probably the 1/6 scale (86" span) Hellcat which I am building from plans, and hope to have ready for summer of 2005.
The tanks that I mentioned are the external drop tanks that were carried by late war F4U-1Ds and later models and into the Korean War. The label sez they are 15" long, 3" diameter. I don't have any scale drawings to compare them to, but have them eyeballed as being accurate size for 1/8 scale Corsairs. These are not the type which were carried by AAF fighters (Mustangs, P-47s, etc.) as those appear to be shorter than the type carried by Corsairs. NOTE: I apologize for an error I made in an earlier post: I stated the part number was #109, the correct part number IS (Wing Mfg.) AC901. Wing Mg. has an extremely large amount of 'add on' and replacement parts (cowl, canopies, etc). Many are not listed on the web-site, but Dan (Dan Gipe, owner) has said that he is planning on updating his web-site. Take my word on these tanks, they are right for Corsairs (will probably work well with the H-9 Corsairs as well), and I will definately have them on mine by this summer. You will need to fabricate the pylons that they hang from, and I have no drawings on them either, only a Tamiya 1/48 scale model to 'copy' from. Send an e-mail to Dan (or call him if you prefer) if you want these tanks soon. Or, he will have some sets at the Toledo show.
Juice, if you are reading this: you really need at least one of these tanks also (there are many photos of carrier based Corsairs having just one of these tanks, hanging from the right wing pylon).
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 2/26/2004 12:44:44 AM >
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Corsairjock, on Wing's site, the drop tank that is the 15" .60-.75 size is part AC901 not 109. Is this the same tank you are talking about (and that Claikins asked) ?
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quote:
ORIGINAL: voyager_663rd
Corsairjock, on Wing's site, the drop tank that is the 15" .60-.75 size is part AC901 not 109. Is this the same tank you are talking about (and that Claikins asked) ?
I guess that is the same, mine do not have the "AC" on the label (see picture), AND make sure you don't get the smaller ones, which I see are listed as AC901A.
Also note that he has drop mechanisms for sale, which can drop these tanks and/ or bombs. I happen to have a pair of Vortac mechanisms which I plan to use, IF I can mount them properly on my completed wing. The Wing Mfg.drop mechanisms are 'some assembly required' type, and may not be all that scale (but then, niether are the Vortacs)
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quote:
ORIGINAL: CorsairJock
I start out with this drawing of the tips as viewed from the front. What should become evident is that the outline of the top of the outer wing panels are absolutely straight from the root (of the outer panel/ wing fold line), until it rounds downward at the very end (tip) to meet the underside. This is true not only at the spar, but all the way across. In other words, you should be able to lay a straight edge on the spar, or the trailing edge, or the rear spar area (where flaps and ailerons meet the wing), and see no gap until the very end of the tip. Of the 2 Top Flite versions, the red box is the worst, but both of them have the top drooping beginning several inches from the tips. To correct the Gold Edition, wing ribs T-7 need to be modified (before assembly) by trimming about 1/8 all the way across the bottom, 1/32 from the upper spar notch, and 1/16 from the rear alignment tab. This should get you pretty close, you can check by assembling and using a straight edge to see if the tops of all ribs line up, all the way across. Some sanding (with a hobby/ straight sander) will be required to make T-7 be properly aligned with the other ribs. Making this correction will also add a slight washout effect, making tip stalls less likely. It is not necessary to bring the tips to a point as shown on the scale view. Doing so makes the mod more difficult, and will result in a tip that is more easily damaged. The option is yours. However, I do encourage you to at least make the top straight, and make yours closer to scale.
You should also add a piece of balsa about ¾ x ¾ x 1 1/2 long to the rear of the leading edge stock, into the corner, butting up against T-7 (if you have not yet sheeted the wing). Sand to match the airfoil, as you will be sheeting over this. This is needed because of the additional rounding of the leading edge profile which is needed for the next mod. Without it, the sheeting can be sanded too thin when the correct profile is done.
Couple of questions here regarding the left and right tip panels. I am getting confused about top and bottom and which way is up and which way is down. When I'm looking down on the plans, it says its the right wing tip panel.
1.If I build with the "tabs" on the bottom the FIRST time, I am building the RIGHT tip panel. Correct?
2)It says to cut a v-notch in the bottom spar (which when I'm building the right tip panel, is really on the BOTTOM (against the building board). RIGHT?
3)The open part of the V is pointing to the sky. RIGHT?
4)Skipping ahead to the left panel (which is built on the same view), the tabs are still on the bottom (against the building board) but now that tab-side is really the TOP of the wing. RIGHT and the V is now cut on the inside of the TOP spar, with the open V pointing down towards the building board (tabs are still against the building board). If the LEFT panel were completed at this stage, it could be flipped over and is identical (but mirror image) to the right tip panel. RIGHT?
5)In conclusion to these 4 questions, the right wing tip panel is built right side up and the left panel is built upside down (even though the tabs are always on the building board). RIGHT?
SECOND QUESTION (pics attached).
This concerns the addition of the 3/4 x 3/4 x 1 1/2" block. Pic one is a full view of this proposed setup. Pic 2 is a close up.
6)Is my location of this added block correct?
7) A close up of that area with the block opened up (for question purposes). Is the block supposed to be "centered" on the rib LE so that sanding takes place top and bottom of the block to match the airfoil?
With this block, I'm having a hard time visualizing just what it's supposed to do. Is it to provide additional support for the sheeting or is it supposed to replace some of the sheeting (that gets sanded through) due to the extra sanding thats needed to correct the shape of the wing tip?
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1.If I build with the "tabs" on the bottom the FIRST time, I am building the RIGHT tip panel. Correct? The "right" panel is built top down so that you're actually looking at the bottom of the wing panel on the board. If you're looking at the wing plan from the TE to the LE then the right wing tip will be on your left as you build. 2)It says to cut a v-notch in the bottom spar (which when I'm building the right tip panel, is really on the BOTTOM (against the building board). RIGHT? NO, The bottom spar is actually on top because you're building the wing upside down. 3)The open part of the V is pointing to the sky. RIGHT? Again, realize that the wing is upside down and the top is facing away from you. The V-notch points down to build the taper to the tip of the wing. 4)Skipping ahead to the left panel (which is built on the same view), the tabs are still on the bottom (against the building board) but now that tab-side is really the TOP of the wing. RIGHT and the V is now cut on the inside of the TOP spar, with the open V pointing down towards the building board (tabs are still against the building board). If the LEFT panel were completed at this stage, it could be flipped over and is identical (but mirror image) to the right tip panel. RIGHT? NO, The left wing panel is built over the opposite plan. You must build with the tabs down on the board. Top Flite has given you two wing tip plans, one right, and one left. BOTH wing panels are built upside down. This is done to properly build in the wash out at the tips. Its very important that you take your time to get this right. 5)In conclusion to these 4 questions, the right wing tip panel is built right side up and the left panel is built upside down (even though the tabs are always on the building board). RIGHT? NO, see above explanations.
I'll try to visualize your other questions and answer, if no one else does first! I'm glad you are asking questions. We'd much rather you do that and turn out a good built plane.
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I have my manual in front of me but my version of the kit never added a block in that area. It could be that this is part of the revised plans from 1997. What is the step number that you're up to in the book? That would help to identify where you are in the process.
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The plans show a left panel and a right panel. The print directly under them says to build the opposite wing panel on that plan. Right over the left and Left over the right. Duh, I only finished this wing, the framing that is, a few months ago.
Mark
< Message edited by kram51 -- 2/23/2004 9:05:53 PM >
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quote:
ORIGINAL: kram51
The plans show a left panel and a right panel. The print directly under them says to build the opposite wing panel on that plan. Right over the left and Left over the right. Duh, I only finished this wing, the framing that is, a few months ago.
Mark
Well duh to me too. I only saw the "left over right" and "right over left" and didn't see the left wing tip in the pic above where I was working.
Your quote:
I have my manual in front of me but my version of the kit never added a block in that area. It could be that this is part of the revised plans from 1997. What is the step number that you're up to in the book? That would help to identify where you are in the process. unquote
The block I refer to is to correct the model wing tips so they more closely resemble the real bird. This mod is in post #31 of this thread by Corsairjock. So I am still puzzled as to location/purpose.
I have another question now (same post).
Quote:
To correct the Gold Edition, wing ribs T-7 need to be modified (before assembly) by trimming about 1/8 all the way across the bottom, 1/32 from the upper spar notch, and 1/16 from the rear alignment tab. This should get you pretty close, you can check by assembling and using a straight edge to see if the tops of all ribs line up, all the way across. Some sanding (with a hobby/ straight sander) will be required to make T-7 be properly aligned with the other ribs. Making this correction will also add a slight washout effect, making tip stalls less likely. UNQUOTE
This area to cut out: see my pic below. Is the yellow area the part to be cut out? I post two pics (in case my yellow area is incorrect, you could show me where on the untouched pic) :-)
< Message edited by voyager_663rd -- 2/23/2004 9:31:04 PM >
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Other way around. Remember the side with the tabs is the top of the wing. Take the 1/8 inch off the other side, the side the is really the bottom!!! LOL
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 
