RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 11/21/2004 10:13:42 AM

loulou

Posts: 16
Joined: 8/18/2004
From: henderson, NC, USA
Status: offline

Having fun with this build,lots of compound curves. I am going to use Rob. 615s and want to upsize to 3-1/2" wheels. Which robostruts should I use with this set up? Also I am told that the belly pan on the TF design is not true to scale. Has anyone done any work in that area? This thread has been a great help to me and I want to thank everyone involved. Keep the great info comming.

(in reply to Rocketman612)

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 11/21/2004 1:07:59 PM

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From: Parchment, MI, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: loulou
.....Which robostruts should I use with this set up? Also I am told that the belly pan on the TF design is not true to scale. Has anyone done any work in that area? ......

The smallest size of RoboStruts (and fortunately, the least expensive) are what I use and recommend. They are they '380' series, which are 3/8" diameter. Larger sizes only add more weight, cost, and detract from scale looks.
I will address the belly pan tommorow (Mon,. 11/21/2004), unless someone beats me to it. In the meantme, I'll be at work all day today, making doubltime to support my habit (buying RC stuff).

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(in reply to loulou)

RE: Scale flaps - 11/22/2004 9:55:06 PM

Posts: 21
Joined: 4/29/2002
From: Quad Cities, IA, USA
Status: offline

Mark,

How did you get the cowl flaps to look so good? When I tried to get them bent, I ended up melting the cowl ring. Any hints/suggestions?

Chris

(in reply to kram51)

RE: Scale flaps - 11/22/2004 10:19:27 PM

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Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: claikens

Mark,

How did you get the cowl flaps to look so good? When I tried to get them bent, I ended up melting the cowl ring. Any hints/suggestions?

Chris

Chris,
I applied some heat using a covering iron (with the cloth cover). I set it at a low setting and carefully turned up the heat till I could carefully bend out the flaps. I didn't get radical with it as I just wanted to notice the flaps and help enlarge the air exit area.

Pete

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(in reply to claikens)

RE: Scale flaps - 11/23/2004 1:42:24 AM

kram51

Posts: 625
Joined: 4/11/2002
From: Barboursville, VA, USA
Status: offline

Hey guys thanks for the comps on the flaps. I didn't bend mine perse. I scored them about half way thru with a heavy Exacto knife and then flexed them outward. I set the angle by applying thick CA to the gap created on the inside of the flap joint. After setting all the flaps I came back and added a backing of fiberglass and CA to further strengthen the joint. The results are pretty good I think.

Mark

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Mark
Perfecting the one point landing . . .

(in reply to Rocketman612)

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 11/23/2004 2:04:04 PM

Posts: 1937
Joined: 4/14/2002
From: Parchment, MI, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: loulou
I am told that the belly pan on the TF design is not true to scale. Has anyone done any work in that area?

OK, the belly pan: I don't think 'true to scale' is the correct phrase here, as it's outline and general shape appear to be true to me. It DOES lack details, and Top Flite maunauls don't provide any detailed info. Also, the wing incidence is wrong (as mentioned in early posts), which natually translates to the belly pan not being right either.
For one, there is a retractable air duct/ chute, which is no biggy because the kit can be build as per plans and it would appear that the duct is fully closed. Only lines would need to added, to simualte it.
Probably the biggest area tho, would be the way the pan is faired into the wings. You simply can't see this from drawings, and very difficult to see with pictures. The best way is to see a full scale, up and close. 2nd best is to purchase a Tamiya plastic kit (around $20 ~ $30, your choice of scales: 1/72 or 1/48). These little plastic models are extremely well detailed and accurate, and reveal many details which cannot be seen in 2 dimentional drawings. You can also build the kit and use it in scale contests as documentation for your RC version.
Anyway, in a genral statement: the wing is faired into the belleypan from the leading edge to about half way back. From half way back to the triling edge, it is not faired. By faired, I am refering to the gradual/ rounded fillet wher the wing and belly pan meet.
Like I said tho, best way to see what I mean is to either visit a full scale OR buy the plastic model.
Any other input on this from others is welcome.

Also, concerning a post a little earlier concerning possible electric power conversion: I am currently working on a Hanger 9 Corsair, which I intend to have ready to fly using electric power by Jan. 1, 2005.

< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 11/23/2004 2:07:26 PM >

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(in reply to loulou)

RE: Scale flaps - 1/10/2005 4:57:13 PM

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Joined: 6/26/2004
From: Farmington Hills / White Lake, MI, USA
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Would an evolution 1.00 fit in side the cowl, and is it enought power?

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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 1/13/2005 9:44:19 AM

hoonnz

Posts: 88
Joined: 10/24/2002
From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
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quote:

Top Flite also missed the mark on the wing incidence, it should be 2 degrees I think, and Top Flite plans have 0. If the wing is set right, then the stab should be set right also. Even without setting the wing to a positive incidence, mine seems to need a slight amount of down elevator for level flight, and yes, full scales do fly in what appears to be a slightly nose down attitude. These (scale) incidences create a slight engine downthrust effect (since the wings and stab are positive in relation to the engine, which is at 0 degrees), which in turn means less trim changes are required at different power settings.

Back to an old subject - because this is the stage I have finally reached with my Corsair (been too busy with work etc). The wing of a Corsair has 2 degrees and the stab 1.25 degrees of incidence. This has been thrashed a bit in Rocketman's thread, but my calculations are a bit different and I want to sound out a few opinions. First I recall my trigonometry lessons from 40+ years ago, and 2 degrees incidence for a 13.5" wing chord is 13.5 x sin of 2 degrees; and as a fraction that comes to 15/32". I aim to leave the spar position where it is and raise the dowel 5/32" and drop the T.E. 5/16". How does that sit with those who have been bold enough to attack this area?

Should the stab follow the full size plane's example, or match the wing incidence? My calculations suggest 3/32" at the L.E. of the stab for 1.25 degrees and that is what I think I'll go with.

Brian

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HoonNZ

(in reply to CorsairJock)

RE: Scale flaps - 1/13/2005 10:22:31 AM

Arvid

Posts: 73
Joined: 3/12/2004
From: UtrechtNone, NETHERLANDS
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Hi Brian, I almost got to this part as well. Am finishing up the flap section (also made the adjustment of size of the middle flap). About your question to give less incidence on the stab, according to a book I've read this is completely true. It says: always give the stab less incidence than the main wing. The book is online, give me a moment I'll try to find it for you.

(in reply to hoonnz)

RE: Scale flaps - 1/13/2005 10:36:14 AM

Arvid

Posts: 73
Joined: 3/12/2004
From: UtrechtNone, NETHERLANDS
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Found it. Main page is:
http://www.av8n.com/how/

Part about the incidences is chapter 6. Anyway, this website/book is a must for the beginning ground pilot who wants to know more about what he/she is doing:
http://www.av8n.com/how/htm/aoastab.html

By the way, your calculation about the main wing incidence is correct.

(in reply to Arvid)

RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 1/13/2005 4:37:19 PM

Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: hoonnz

quote:

Top Flite also missed the mark on the wing incidence, it should be 2 degrees I think, and Top Flite plans have 0. If the wing is set right, then the stab should be set right also. Even without setting the wing to a positive incidence, mine seems to need a slight amount of down elevator for level flight, and yes, full scales do fly in what appears to be a slightly nose down attitude. These (scale) incidences create a slight engine downthrust effect (since the wings and stab are positive in relation to the engine, which is at 0 degrees), which in turn means less trim changes are required at different power settings.

Back to an old subject - because this is the stage I have finally reached with my Corsair (been too busy with work etc). The wing of a Corsair has 2 degrees and the stab 1.25 degrees of incidence. This has been thrashed a bit in Rocketman's thread, but my calculations are a bit different and I want to sound out a few opinions. First I recall my trigonometry lessons from 40+ years ago, and 2 degrees incidence for a 13.5" wing chord is 13.5 x sin of 2 degrees; and as a fraction that comes to 15/32". I aim to leave the spar position where it is and raise the dowel 5/32" and drop the T.E. 5/16". How does that sit with those who have been bold enough to attack this area?

Should the stab follow the full size plane's example, or match the wing incidence? My calculations suggest 3/32" at the L.E. of the stab for 1.25 degrees and that is what I think I'll go with.

Brian

Brian,
Good to see others giving this mod a fair shot. I didn't "do the math" when building mine. I took direct measurements with an incidence meter and working off the plans. As I said in my thread I wound up with only 1 deg after not accounting for the sheeting. I also did not move the TE as you are planning. Your # look close to mine and like I said multiple runs on realflight with these changes worked well as long as both the wing and stab are modified. I think the prior failed experiences were due to not changing the stab to offset the wing change.

I moved in October and all the pre and post move activity stopped work on my Corsair (along with waiting for Sierra retracts

) I'm at the point of final painting and assembly and will do so soon.

Arvid,
Great site thanks for the info.

Pete

< Message edited by Rocketman612 -- 1/13/2005 4:40:23 PM >

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(in reply to hoonnz)

RE: Scale flaps - 4/28/2005 3:44:00 AM

Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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Bump

This thread is too good to get burried. Would like to see how Arvid and Hoonnz have made out on their builds.

Juice has been playing around with Rit dye to make his APC prop's black. What a guy. They look pretty good too.

Pete

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"Remember, all im offering is the truth, nothing more..."
Morpheus

(in reply to Arvid)

RE: Scale flaps - 4/30/2005 10:14:54 AM

hoonnz

Posts: 88
Joined: 10/24/2002
From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline

It will come to life again. My project has been stalled because my business has kept me busy and also I had to rebuild my crashed Capiche 50. The Corsair fuz is underway again, but not at any interesting stage yet.
I've been disappointed to at not seeing any contributions for months. Watch this space.
Brian

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HoonNZ

(in reply to Rocketman612)

RE: Scale flaps - 4/30/2005 2:51:38 PM

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Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
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Brian,
Will look forward to seeing yours.

General question. Where are people placing their Fill Valve for the retracts and your switch. I didn't go through the bother of a hatch and I probably should have planned for one.

Pete

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"Remember, all im offering is the truth, nothing more..."
Morpheus

(in reply to hoonnz)

RE: Scale flaps - 4/30/2005 3:40:06 PM

Posts: 1937
Joined: 4/14/2002
From: Parchment, MI, USA
Status: offline

I install the air tank on the wing (I think I posted pictures in an earlier post), and install the air fill on the understide of the wing about midway between left retract and fuselage centerline. This way, it is not visible from above/ while on the ground, and not too noticable when airborn. I WOULD like to come up with something better tho: simple to install yet maybe hidden under a hatch.

I am in the process of repairing #167. Have decided to use the (repaired) wing on the 'red box' fuselage which has also been posted somewhere in these posts. The wing will be re-covered to match the marking on the 'red box' fuselage: Herman Hansen's #1 U.S.S. Bennining based F4U-1