Top Flite P-47 Thunderbolt
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Posts: 2363
Joined: 12/4/2004 From: hastings, MN, USA Status: offline
Bundy
Insted of using a lever servo and having to worry about servo stalls, why not us a sail servo from the boat guys, as they will toun contious in eather direction no stalls and the caption dia wold give you your speed.
Posts: 325
Joined: 4/26/2003 From: Riverside,
RI, USA Status: offline
Hi guys, I’ve been viewing this thread for over a year and been picking away at my TF Corsair for a few years. I’ve done some of the mods but I’ve handicapped myself when I decided to tackle a scale-like retractable tail wheel. I can’t remember where I’ve seen one, but I’m fairly certain it was posting from RCU. Anyone recall such a post? If one of you could help me find it, it would be much appreciated. Thanks gentlemen. By the way I have many pics of F4U-1D Marines Dream, every stencil, feature, and location and would be glad to post any pic you would want to see of it. I took these myself at an air show at Genesio, NY 2005. I’d be glad to share them but too many to post them all.
MORNING!! awesome thread guys, i have a question on the flaps for the corsairs.... im not getting it or at least i dont think i am. the servo in the wing works the inbd. flap up and down, i got that. but the others go down how? im assuming (and you know what they say about assuming) that the rod inside the main inbd flap extends to the center flap and "drags" the next flap down and then the chain reaction causes the next rod inside that flap to drag the most outbd flap down with it? am i getting that right? the reason i ask is i want to build me a corsair with flaps but man, they look intimdating!! thanks-Raf
Posts: 1937
Joined: 4/14/2002 From: Parchment,
MI, USA Status: offline
Flaps: Yes, it looks like a bad set-up (linking with the rods), but they work better than they look like they would. One problem tho: due to way the flaps travel in relation to each other (from different wing angles), each flap causes the one outboard of it to have more travel. This means that the outer-most flaps will travel down farther than the inner ones. Way to cure it: BEND the rods slightly before you install them, so that they bend up slightly.
If you think the Gold Edition flaps set-up looks flakey, you should see how they did it with the 'red box' versions.
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Posts: 132
Joined: 1/8/2006 From: Sunrise,
FL, USA Status: offline
(Bump)
Hi, I wanted to first thank all you guys for this awesome thread and then ask what hinges most used on their flaps and ailerons etc. I couldn't quite see in the pictures how you hung the flaps.
Paul S.
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Posts: 1937
Joined: 4/14/2002 From: Parchment,
MI, USA Status: offline
Robart Hinge Points are the way to go for flaps. The hinge should be at the bottom of the wing, preferably even lower/ exposed/ hanging slightly below the wings. This allow the flaps to have a gap when down (as in full scales). Post #130 has some good pics of flaps done right (Thanks, Pete), as does #132. Probably others too, but don't have time to look them all up.
For all other control surfaces: they (Robart Hinge Points)are probably best for them also, but it depends on how you shape the control surfaces and trailing edges of fixed surfaces. If you go for the best scale look (more work), the control sufaces will be rounded on front edge, and trailing edges of fixed surfaces will be cupped, or "C" shaped. The actual hinged part must then be set into the control surface: the distance from actual hinge to leading edge of control surface should be about equal to the radius of the leading edge of that surface. If you choose the simple, sport scale type hinging system (very easy, but not very scale looking), control surface leading edges are beveled, trailing edges of fixed surfaces are flat, and just about any type of hinge will do (I would recommend Sig Easy Hinges tho).
Back by Popular Demand: Molded Maching Gun Wing Inlets. Due to requests, I am having Dan Gipe (Wing Mfg) make up another batch of the vacu-formed Corsair .50 cal. maching gun openings, which are discussed in posts #86 ~ 89. I will be selling them for $5 + $5 shipping. Translation: $10 total for 1 set, $15 total for 2 sets, $20 total for 3 sets. If interested, please E-MAIL me (do NOT PM me, as PM system is more time consuming)
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 1/30/2006 2:57:05 PM >
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quote:
ORIGINAL: CorsairJock
Back by Popular Demand: Molded Maching Gun Wing Inlets. Due to requests, I am having Dan Gipe (Wing Mfg) make up another batch of the vacu-formed Corsair .50 cal. maching gun openings, which are discussed in posts #86 ~ 89. I will be selling them for $5 + $5 shipping. Translation: $10 total for 1 set, $15 total for 2 sets, $20 total for 3 sets. If interested, please E-MAIL me (do NOT PM me, as PM system is more time consuming)
Glad to see your offering the MGP's again. They are of excellent quality and went in easy. Here is a photo of mine.
Pete
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Posts: 39
Joined: 8/3/2005 From: Vacaville,
CA, USA Status: offline
This is a great resource, thank you very much. Being new to rc I'm afraid my contributions will be minimal. I do have some questions. I bought a TF F4U already built, the builder did a nice job. I think it is a Gold edition, it's finished all blue and has F4U-5 decals. I rebuilt the retracts,(Robarts) and now I would like to put gear doors on, any ideas? I replaced the super Tiger 90 with a YS91. I have not flown this plane yet, and any tips would be greatly appreciated. And for heaven sakes, What's the Corsair wiggle???
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Joined: 4/14/2002 From: Parchment,
MI, USA Status: offline
Thanks for the support, guys, and thanks for the great picture, Pete.
I've been slacking off all winter, built half a dozen small electrics, but couln't get into building another 1/8 scale Corsair until now (after all, I DO already have 3 in flying condition at the moment). So here it is, 1st of Feb 2006 (winter half over), looking over various projects I started long ago, deciding which could be completed before the 1st warbird events this coming summer, and decided on this one: Fuselage is the Gold Edition one that I crashed about a year and a half ago (pilot error). The wing that was on it was repaired and mated to the red box fuselage which I flew last summer. The wing in the picture is the red box one that was never completed, and was originally intended for the red box fuselage. All 4 pieces can be found in earlier pics in this thread.
What I need to do (besides repair):
1) I will be installing one of Luke's 'birdcage canpies' on it, making it an F4U-1. Sorry Luke, don't want to spend time on cockpit kit also, so will leave as is (altho the pilot needs to be lowered).
2) The wings need some work: the trailing edges in the tip area droop, as per Top Flite plans. I intend to get rid of the droop/ make the top of the wings straight (bfrom the gull bend to tips). Also, will add a little (1 deg?) of positive wing incidence.
3) Install Robart mech retract tailwheel.
4) Modify forward fuselage some more, by rounding firewall more and sloping sides forward of the canopy.
5) MAYBE add FULL set of main gear doors (will consider this as progress continues).
6) Remove all covering, 'glass & paint early VF-17/ Jolly Rogers U.S.S. Bunker Hill scheme (tri-color w round/ no bars national insignia).
7) Replace heavy Top Flite elevator and rudder control rods with Sullivan composite control rods. This will lighten it by a few oz.
The fuselage had a Saito .72 mounted to it, and is set up for it, so I will either use that same engine OR install a new Saito .82 IF I determine that the weight will be in excess of 9 lbs.
Lastly, I will try to take the time and take pics as I go along, and post them here.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 2/2/2006 3:47:52 PM >
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