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CorsairJock -> Wing Tip Modifications (8/20/2003 6:49:26 PM)
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OK, FINALLY, the wing tips. The Top Flite Corsairs have many inaccuracies, but by far the biggest is the wing tips. I would hesitate to say that these mods are the most important ones however, because we view aircraft from the side more often than from directly above or below. Nontheless, this is a very noticeable deviation from scale, and should be corrected if possible. For those of you out there who haven’t built the tip area yet, it relatively easy to make them right. If your’s is built and finished already, this will be more difficult but not impossible.
But before I go to far, a big thank you goes out to RocketMan for posting pics of his rudder, which he modified according to suggestions from this forum. Fantastic job, Pete. Very scale looking AND sturdy enough to survive those occasional tip overs. I noticed that you also added some 1/64” ply to the fin to cover the hinge area. Again, VERY well done.
Also thanks to Juice, for adding pics of full scale exhausts. I noticed that the bevel appears to be more than 45 deg, maybe more like 60 deg. Oh well, I don’t think too many will notice if you go 45 deg, but if you really want to be true to scale, you could always sand them down some more.
There are actually 2 separate wing tip mods in these next few posts: the first concerns the airfoil in the wing tip area, and the second concerns the wingtip outline. It is not necessary to do one in order to do the other. And in fact, if your aircraft is already completed, it would be very difficult to do the first mod, but the second one could still be made without too much trouble.
I’ll start out with this drawing of the tips as viewed from the front. What should become evident is that the outline of the top of the outer wing panels are absolutely straight from the root (of the outer panel/ wing fold line), until it rounds downward at the very end (tip) to meet the underside. This is true not only at the spar, but all the way across. In other words, you should be able to lay a straight edge on the spar, or the trailing edge, or the rear spar area (where flaps and ailerons meet the wing), and see no gap until the very end of the tip. Of the 2 Top Flite versions, the ‘red box’ is the worst, but both of them have the top drooping beginning several inches from the tips.
To correct the Gold Edition, wing ribs T-7 need to be modified (before assembly) by trimming about 1/8” all the way across the bottom, 1/32” from the upper spar notch, and 1/16” from the rear alignment tab. This should get you pretty close, you can check by assembling and using a straight edge to see if the tops of all ribs line up, all the way across. Some sanding (with a hobby/ straight sander) will be required to make T-7 be properly aligned with the other ribs. Making this correction will also add a slight washout effect, making tip stalls less likely. It is not necessary to bring the tips to a point as shown on the scale view. Doing so makes the mod more difficult, and will result in a tip that is more easily damaged. The option is yours. However, I do encourage you to at least make the top straight, and make yours closer to scale.
You should also add a piece of balsa about ¾” x ¾” x 1 1/2” long to the rear of the leading edge stock, into the ‘corner’, butting up against T-7 (if you have not yet sheeted the wing). Sand to match the airfoil, as you will be sheeting over this. This is needed because of the additional rounding of the leading edge profile which is needed for the next mod. Without it, the sheeting can be sanded too thin when the correct profile is done.
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