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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
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Hi Pete,
By eliminating the spacers behind the cowl ring and mounting it flush with the firewall save for a couple of small offset shims, it looks like the RCV 120 is going to be just about perfect hardmounted to the firewall. If you wouldn't mind taking a second look and a couple of measurements on yours to insure that I'm not miscalculating something badly, you might save me a big headache later.
Thanks for the heads-up. I'll double check my "rithmetic" as well.
Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 5/24/2006 From: Sammamish,
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Not much progress on the Corsair this week. We are in a bit of a holding pattern at the moment. Chris painted the tailwheel, and that's about it on this project. We did have "the blonde" hanging around all put together tonight, so here is a little bit of plane porn to fill the downtime. My wife informed us that running the engine in the driveway is bad ju-ju. Looks like Chris didn't log out of the shop PC, so he gets credit for this post.
Tom
< Message edited by rollo -- 6/30/2007 6:36:21 AM >
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Joined: 8/8/2004 From: Ocala,
FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Tom, Well after collecting any drawings, sketches and pics, I have fabracated a rear tailwheel assembly. I used the pc board and brass. Still have to work out the locking mechanism though. I wasn't able to use my mini tourch so I had to resort to my standard tourch. Warning!, after getting the board too hot, I noticed the copper releasing from the board. OK, I said fine, but like to mention if one is using this setup, and come in for a hard landing, chances are the copper, which attached to other copper pieces is apt to release, thus part or parts can fall off. reason I'm saying this is, there is no way of knowing how close one came to overheating the board on assembly. On the lower piece that holds the wheel, I choose to use all brass. A bit heavy, and very tricky to solder without getting the other soldered piece too hot, and falling off. Last night I came across another thread, I believe off Warbirds, com. Anyhow someone was asking how to make his Corsair to whistle. So, the first thing that came to mind was, make a wistle out of the pitot tube. Another thing came to mind today, make the wistle, and put it into the exhaust tube?? Has anyone done anything on this wistling?? Sam
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
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quote:
ORIGINAL: samwood2
Hi Tom, Well after collecting any drawings, sketches and pics, I have fabracated a rear tailwheel assembly. I used the pc board and brass. Still have to work out the locking mechanism though. I wasn't able to use my mini tourch so I had to resort to my standard tourch. Warning!, after getting the board too hot, I noticed the copper releasing from the board. OK, I said fine, but like to mention if one is using this setup, and come in for a hard landing, chances are the copper, which attached to other copper pieces is apt to release, thus part or parts can fall off. reason I'm saying this is, there is no way of knowing how close one came to overheating the board on assembly. On the lower piece that holds the wheel, I choose to use all brass. A bit heavy, and very tricky to solder without getting the other soldered piece too hot, and falling off. Last night I came across another thread, I believe off Warbirds, com. Anyhow someone was asking how to make his Corsair to whistle. So, the first thing that came to mind was, make a wistle out of the pitot tube. Another thing came to mind today, make the wistle, and put it into the exhaust tube?? Has anyone done anything on this wistling?? Sam
Hi Sam,
We used a soldering iron exclusively on ours. I can imagine that the torch would cause the core to delaminate from the copper coating. As far as the locking mechanism goes, if you get your actuation arms aligned just right, they will go past parallel in the extended position and the aft arm will effectively lock in the down position. Only upward movement from the servo will release it. Hopefully the attached picture shows what I'm talking about.
There was some talk of whistles on the "Stuka Dropping Bombs" thread a couple of days ago. You may want to look there for ideas.
Take care, Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 2/1/2006 From: elizabeth city, NC, USA Status: offline
Hi Tom,
Did you take a break? I was so used to read your post almost every day, and now nothing for 4 days... Here are my latest pic. I would appreciate your help with my OS 120, first time with a 4 cycle and i'm a little confused about the plumbing with the gas tank & the engine . Pascal
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
Looks good, Pascal.
I am taking a bit of a break. I'm essentially stuck until I get the scale exhaust back from Keleo. I've been trying to get motivated to assemble and paint the cockpit kit, but haven't been able to get inspired. We've been taking advantage of the newfound nice weather in the Northwest to get outside and fly, play golf and ride our bikes a bit. There's lots of time to build when it's cold and rainy here, but the sunshine doesn't last very long.
As far as the plumbing of the fuel tank goes, I've only used the pumped OS engines which don't need any exhaust backpressure. On those I use a 3-line set up with a dedicated line to the carb, a dedicated fill line that I cap with a fuel dot, and a dedicated vent line that gets looped over the top of the tank and then out the bottom of the fuse, essentially creating a P-trap like in plumbing to prevent leaking through the vent line. You may want to post your question on the main forum or do a search if this set-up doesn't work for you and I'm sure you'll get lots of hits.
Looks like you are within days of a maiden. Good luck!
Tom
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Tom,
For the pull pull belcrank how or what and where is the mechanism to move it. I assume it is a servo but can't see where you are going to mount it. This might sound stupid but I would like a little more detail on that part if you would. The tailwheel assembly looks great now.
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Tom,
I'm building the top of the fuselage now. I was wondering if I can just build it or if you had to drill extra holes or cut out any of the formers for you mods youv'e done in the bottom half.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: NCIS
Tom,
For the pull pull belcrank how or what and where is the mechanism to move it. I assume it is a servo but can't see where you are going to mount it. This might sound stupid but I would like a little more detail on that part if you would. The tailwheel assembly looks great now.
Thanks,
Barry
I'll either connect it via pull-pull or a pushrod to the rudder servo. I added the bellcrank at the fuse bottom to get a straight-shot to the tailwheel for the pull-pull cables. You could skip that if you routed them differently.
quote:
ORIGINAL: NCIS
I'm building the top of the fuselage now. I was wondering if I can just build it or if you had to drill extra holes or cut out any of the formers for you mods youv'e done in the bottom half.
Would you please let me know,
Nothing in the top half other than what I've already documented here. Think about the nav light in the fuse spine before you get too boxed in.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 7/9/2007 9:35:02 PM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Tom,
Yeah OK, I was not going to sheet any of the fuselage until all wires are run and I decide where I'm putting everything. The sheeting can wait until the last thing. That way it won't get dinged or cracked either.
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
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Well, the lost summer waiting on the Keleo exhaust was definitely not worth it. I talked to Kelvin about doing this on May 15 and prepaid as usual. The finished product was supposed to be delivered in 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, I started following up, and sent Kelvin a prototype of what I needed. That's documented above as well. We took a lot of care to get the spacing of the exhaust exits right and demonstrate the angle that the headers would need to sit to clear the fuse. I also asked Kelvin to call to discuss the details before he started the build. After a few follow-ups, I finally got the headers last weekend, and they are pretty close to unusable. Everything above the white line (see photos) will be outside the fuse sheeting and need to be cut-away and rebuilt. No worries, I thought. Kelvin has always been reasonable and will be happy to correct the problem. Here is my mail string with him. He basically said that he couldn't help and won't respond. I'm debating whether to send his work back for a refund, or try to chop and rebuild it. Bottom line, let the buyer beware if you want good scale work. He did pretty well for a while, but I think he's buried and trying to turn out orders at the expense of getting it right. Too bad.
Tom
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ From: Tom Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 11:12 AM To: Kelvin Subject: RE: RCV 120 Ring
Re-do and re-do? This is the second one you’ve done for two different engines and I’ve paid full price for both with nary a complaint or question until now, so let me know what I’m missing.
From: Kelvin [mailto:kelvin@keleo-creations.com] Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 7:13 AM To: Tom Subject: RE: RCV 120 Ring
I’m limited with what I can do and actually thought I had done a very good job for you. if they wont work for you the way they are then just send them back and I will refund your money. I’m not going to redo and redo these for you.
-----Original Message----- From: Tom Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:50 AM To: Kelvin Subject: RE: RCV 120 Ring
Hi Kelvin,
Most of your ideas were good, but the finished product has some significant problems. How do you want to work on them? I wish that you had called me to talk about this before you built it. Looks like you assumed that I was building to plan and not to scale. Quick call to get the ball rolling?
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 10/18/2007 8:12:57 PM >
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Tom, They don't right, but not all that bad either. I'm thinking it would have been better for the 3 pipes to protrude slightly (maybe about 1/8" or more?), so the outer one could be somewhat flush with the fuselage. Just curious as to what you paid for them, and what all are you getting? They look like they could be adapted to a number of engines by using flexible pipe.
BTW: I experimented a few years ago by using silver solder to 'weld' 3 brass tubes together, attached them to a larger dia 'feeder' tube, and sawed off the 3 at an angle to get the bevel. Never put them in use tho, and never came close to installing them. They are still laying around somewhere.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 10/18/2007 10:29:50 AM >
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Hey Tom,
I offered you your money back but that was not good enough for you, for some reason you think you have to air your laundry out here on this forum. Keep an eye out for your credit card statement and take note that I have refunded your money. You do what you want with the exhaust.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods 
RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 
Looks like Chris didn't log out of the shop PC, so he gets credit for this post. 
So, the first thing that came to mind was, make a wistle out of the pitot tube. Another thing came to mind today, make the wistle, and put it into the exhaust tube?? 
