Mustang Exhaust
- Kit
Seller:tony-howard Details:
$35.00
| 7/5/2008
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Posts: 20
Joined: 2/28/2004 From: Sauk City, WI, USA Status: offline
I've been following the various projects on this thread for a while. A couple of pages ago mystar46 brought up the RDS system for aileron and flap operations. I had seen that system years ago in a mag or online, but it used a bellcrank to rotate the control arm. It seemed like too much plumbing, but when I saw the direct servo rotating device I thought that was great. I looked around starting with the link mystar gave and saw the nice system he was using on the site @$60. I thought there was a way to duplicate a system like that without needing a small machine shop. I came up with the idea in the pic, it seems solid, I tried twisting the wheel collar with a plier and no budge. I hooked up the servo, the rod had a slight wobble but securing the servo and the rod supported by an exit hole on the TE, I think it will be fine. The total sum is about $1.50 ea.
< Message edited by dbcooper14 -- 2/19/2008 7:47:25 PM >
Posts: 1361
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
Last year I posted some criticism (posts 886 -901) about a custom exhaust that Kelvin built for me for an RCV engine that is going into my Corsair. I was frustrated enough at the time that I took a break from the build for several months. Now that I have gotten back to it, I find that while the exhaust isn't perfect - it will be very usable. The header design is actually quite innovative, and I would highly encourage Kelvin to add these to his menu of standard offers. I also know now that Kelvin was under a lot of stress at the time that came through in his initial reply to me. I regret not picking up the phone and working out the problem rather than venting here. Kelvin and I have talked today, he graciously accepted my apology. So I would like to step up here and formally say that I was wrong. Unfortunately, I can no longer edit the posts in question. Please accept my apologies as well for my lack of judgement on the forum.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 2/19/2008 9:06:19 PM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 20
Joined: 2/28/2004 From: Sauk City, WI, USA Status: offline
The wheel collar is soldered to the plate but I have used the set screw to secure the rod...but, soldering the rod to the collar would be good too. I made one wrap of that funky alum. tape around the butt of the rod because there was too much slop in the collar hole. Thanks SMUGator for the suggestion, I'll try soldering the rod.
Posts: 619
Joined: 7/30/2003 From: Charlotte,
NC, USA Status: online
Tom,
That takes a big man to say I'm sorry. I'll look at the Keleo exhaust for the RCV because of you. I'm building a GS right now but I'm thinking about a 1/8th scale next since it's more portable.
Posts: 1361
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
After spending a few hours in the shop, I don't have groundbreaking progress to show, but wanted to share a few photos just to get back into the swing of things. I recast the tailcone from fiberglass to improve the hinge line. The photos are of the form (made of balsa, foam and lightweight spackling), the lay-up in progress, and the dry fitted part. I also spent the better part of an afternoon grinding and polishing on the exhaust outlets to get them closer to scale. They aren't perfect, but I'll use them. The next to last photo is the before shot of the exhaust. The final is 1:1 scale reference.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 2/25/2008 6:33:53 AM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 24
Joined: 8/8/2004 From: Ocala,
FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Tom, The tailwheel looks good. So, what have you decided on the hinges? I tried several and finally comprimised on mine. Not sure I'm satified with them though. I really like the exhaust too. Are both sides functionable, or is one side a dummy? I tried a couple of weeks ago to upload a few photo's, but since I have a slow connection, and the pictures were too big, I gave up. I'm attempting it was again, with smaller pictures. Keep up the great work, and let me know how the your doors turn out. Sam
Posts: 1361
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: samwood2
The tailwheel looks good. So, what have you decided on the hinges? I tried several and finally comprimised on mine. Not sure I'm satified with them though. I really like the exhaust too. Are both sides functionable, or is one side a dummy?
Hi Sam,
I ended up using Nelson piano hinges and 1/16 aluminum rivets from Microfasteners to attach mine. The hinge gap is wider than I had hoped. I'll probably add a little 1/64 ply behind the gap to soften the visual impact. Both sides of the exhaust are functional. Here is how it is starting to set-up in the plane. The small pieces of silicon tubing on the aft tubes are just for heat insulation. Only the one attached to the header is active.
quote:
ORIGINAL: chilie
How many layers of glass and of what weight did you use to make that part?
I think about 3 layers of the utility pack of cloth at Home Depot. Pretty heavy stuff. I use whatever I have around the shop for things like this and gear doors. Just get it thick enough to do the job.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 2/28/2008 6:35:59 AM >
_____________________________
Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
Posts: 1361
Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
Here are a couple of additional mods that I've been working on for the past few days. One of my frustrations with the Top Flite Cowl is that you have to remove the prop to get the cowling off. This basically means that you have to cut holes in the cowl to get to anything related to flight operations. In my case with the RCV, this means:
the needle valve
the remote starter socket
the remote glow
So my goal is to make the cowling removable at the scale location without any externally visible latches, screws connectors, etc. To be honest, we've been thinking about this for a long time. Initially, we were planning to go with a single cam-loc as is used on the full scale. But the need to get to it with a screw driver while the engine is running would mean that the locking mechanism would need to be on top of the fuse - ugly. After a couple of rounds of trial and error, I came up with a latching system that works very much like the automobile hood fastener. The spring loaded catch holds the modified servo-arm pin in place until the release is pulled. We'll put loops in the pull wires and hide them where they can be reached on either side behin
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RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 
