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Joined: 4/14/2002 From: Parchment,
MI, USA Status: offline
I've said it before (in this thread), and I'll say it again: altho I build everything to be light, but I feel that the fin/ rudder NEEDS to be robust, and making them strong will be rewarded in the future.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 3/29/2008 11:01:52 AM >
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Avatar: Electric Powered, Highly Modified Hangar 9 Corsair
Posts: 40
Joined: 12/13/2007 From: Killen,
AL, USA Status: offline
I took dbcooper14's idea on the rotary aileron drivers and modified it a little. I took an electrical standoff, opened it up a little to accept the shaft, drilled and tapped a hole for the setscrew and fastened it to a 1/16" thick piece of circuit board material with a #6 screw. I used another piece of circuit board material opened up in the center as a spacer around the #6 screw head and fastened all of that to a round servo arm via #2 screws and nuts. It works really nice and stays aligned. Could you guys give me any negatives on the setup before I close the wingtips?
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
That certainly looks pretty good. It's kind of hard to judge without actually laying hands on it and giving it the old "can I break this?" test. . The one part I worry the most about is the set screw holding the shaft. Any way to solder all that together? I'd just run through some failure scenarios in my mind like:
What could cause one of the screws to come loose and what would I do?
What would happen if I pranged a control surface on a car door?
What if I ever need to adjust a throw?
I think you're on the right track.
I've been pretty occupied with the new 1/6 Scale Corsair Group Build, but I did find a little time to work on the canopy frame. Not much new here. If you follow Winston's excellent how-to thread, you won't go too far wrong. One thing I did learn when I did this on my P-47 a couple of years ago is that it's a lot easier to fix any high and low spots if you give a good block sanding and hit it with filler while it's still in one piece. So here are a couple of ugly photos of that process. Next comes the part I hate - grinding out the frame. Ugh. So this was mostly a post just to say "hello" to my pals that are working on the 1/8s.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 4/10/2008 7:58:25 AM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 12/13/2007 From: Killen,
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Thanks for the tips, SMUGator. I will take your advice. You guys on these Corsair build threads have been a blessing. I also noticed your cowl job with the latches. As it turns out, I was doing the same type mod to my cowl before you posted your setup. I used some pretty powerful cylindrical magnets in each corner of my cowl cutout. What is your take on using magnets for this purpose? (I would hate to lose the cutout in flight.) It's certainly not too late for me to change to a simular method as yours. Also, I'm going to use an RCV SP engine so I borrowed from your method of chamfering the fuse front for airflow. Thanks a bunch!
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
WA, USA Status: offline
I use rare earth magnets for lots of things, including holding my hatches in place. I can't say that they won't work here, but I would worry about the amount of vibration you may get with the RCV on the nose as well as the force that the airflow through the cowl may exert from the inside pushing outward. I just preferred a more postive connection at that location. At our field, it's no joy to try to retrieve even a .60 size airplane from the tall grass surrounding the field. That cowl half would almost without a doubt be lost forever.
Tom
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 4/11/2008 3:46:43 AM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
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After lots of work with the Dremel, various shaped files and finally emery boards, a canopy frame starts to take shape. Hit it with a little primer to make it easier to see the imperfections. Still some cleaning up to do.
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 2/28/2004 From: Sauk City, WI, USA Status: offline
Smugator-
The photos of your sliding canopy has brought up a big question about making the rear sliding canopy look like scale canopy. I tried years ago to make the front of the frame end up more vertical in the fully retracted position. My efforts ended up like yours, with the front of the sliding canopy angling backwards and the top rear of the canopy flush with the top of the fuse. The photo I found shows a more vert. front and noticeable gap between the top rear of the canopy and the fuse. If the angled channel behind the cockpit is the same as the scale channel, why does the canopy end up angled backwards? It''s a bewilderment.
< Message edited by dbcooper14 -- 4/14/2008 3:59:10 PM >
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Joined: 10/28/2003 From: Sammamish,
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I tend to get some "coaching" offline once in a while that doesn't always show up here. I thought this explanation was crystal clear and good enough to share. Of course this probably means that I'll rip my rails out now and redo them. I wasn't 100% happy with them anyhow, so this may be the last straw.
quote:
The answer is easy to your question, first the canopy moves up and then aft. The reason it has to move up first is the clear the turtle deck, it sits in a kind of recessed area when it’s closed. If it just had to move back and not up first the channel would look straight and not angled down. Notice the red line in the picture, it is almost parallel with the track on the front of the canopy when you compare the end point. Most people just have to much angle in the channel because it appears to have an angle to it, but without the first angle up it will be wrong. Hope this makes sense.
< Message edited by SMUGator -- 4/15/2008 2:16:37 AM >
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Currently building a 1/6 Scale F4U-1A Corsair (BuNo 17777) and finishing a TF 1/8 Corsair
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Joined: 2/28/2004 From: Sauk City, WI, USA Status: offline
That''s very interesting, puts a little wrinkle in designing the sliding canopy. Looks like the canopy is modified from original. Thanks for the photo. Anybody ever come across a photo with the canopy off showing the original rear rails?
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Joined: 2/12/2002 From: Richmond Hill,
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[Moderator: I'm repeating what I first posted in the H9 Hellcat thread, here. I may be bordering on "bad ediquette" by re-posting a message. If I am, please delete this post and accept my appologies.]
Is anyone here flying the TF Corsair with an RCV SP engine (the one with the 2:1 gear reduction)?
If so, I have a functional scale prop hub that may interest you. It is 1/8 scale only and it is for RCV SP engines only (I know... it's a very small market).
Attached are some pictures. Here's a link to the first engine run of the hub: 1/8 Scale Hub: First Run
Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods 
RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 
. The one part I worry the most about is the set 
