RE: Juice's Finish (Full Version)

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Juice -> RE: Juice's Finish (11/24/2003 6:52:54 PM)

Todd,

It's covered with 1/2-oz fiberglass cloth. I used Minwax Polycrylic to adhere it to the airframe. Then I did Luke's trick with the thinned Bondo to fill any remaining weave. For the panel lines I used 1/64" chart tape, primered over the chart tape, then peeled off the tape. I used automotive paint for all colours. The base blue I used is too light, too bright. I don't know what I was thinking when I picked that shade of blue.

For the weathering I used black charcoal and sandpaper to get black "dirt". On the wing, I smeared it on the chordwise panel lines and just behind the spanwise panel lines, then wipe it off backwards. On the fuse, I smeared it on the vertical panel lines and just below the lenghwise panel lines, then wipe it off downwards. I also "dusted" everything with baby powder and wiped backwards on the wing and downwards on the fuse. But when I clearcoated it all the baby powder seemed to disappear. It's no show winner, but I'm very pleased with my results given that it was all my first attempt at scale.

Look to add a month or more to your project if you want to fiberglass and paint. It took me longer than that because I had to experiment and try everything out on scrap first. The worst part about it is all the sanding. I thought it would never end. But it's worth every effort because when it's all said and done, you'll have an ugly weathered airplane that doesn't look like it just rolled out of the factory (if that's the look you want). And the big bonus for me is that you won't get any of those unscale bubbles from the sagging monokote.

I hope this helps.

Juice




CorsairJock -> RE: 2 piece/ 3 piece wings, engine baffling, retracts (11/25/2003 5:22:40 AM)

Ouch!




rlawrie -> RE: 2 piece/ 3 piece wings, engine baffling, retracts (11/26/2003 12:25:10 AM)

I don't want to be a pain in the butt, but I thought this thread is intended to deal with mods to the Top Flite 60 size Corsair to make it appear more scale like. I personally would like to see the forum members keep it that way. There is a forum devoted to Fiberglassing etc. I go there when I want the kind of info you are submitting here.
Thanks.
Semper Fi
Dick




cap10fan -> RE: 2 piece/ 3 piece wings, engine baffling, retracts (11/26/2003 2:17:25 AM)

I didn't realize that anybody was giving directions on how to fiberglass. I think Juice was only answering the question asked.




Juice -> RE: Juice's Finish (11/26/2003 5:01:53 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: cap10fan
I am new to scale building and am just curious what finish you used on your Corsair.


I guess I could have just answered with "I finished it with fiberglass and paint".

quote:

ORIGINAL: cap10fan
I am also very impressed by your gear door set-up and would appreciate some info on this as well.


I owe you an answer to this as well. I was hoping to post some pictures of the gear doors but my monitor at home died on me (I'm limited to surfing at work when nobody's watching :D).

But to tell you the truth, I don't like the way I did my gear doors (basically they are made with shaped balsa sheets laminated with carbonfiber cloth for stiffness). If I were to do them over again, I would do it exactly like how Luke did it (made with fiberglass and epoxy). Luke was also able to make them functional. I was NOT. I tried, but in the end I just stuck them into the wheel well with velcro. They greatly improve the static appearance, but I have to take them off when I fly it.

For now I'll take the easy way out of this by adding a link to Luke's website. He does a very good job of explaining how it's done (photo illustrated also!)...

Luke's Corsair Project
(but you can't get on his website until the beginning of next month because his visitors will exceed his ISP's monthly download limit before the month is over)

If anyone is still interested, I can post about how I did my gear doors... after I get a new monitor.

Juice




hoonnz -> RE: Juice's Finish (11/27/2003 2:06:56 AM)

I was rapt when I stumbled across this thread. I lost my Corsair about 6 months ago when radio failure turned it into free flight model, it did 3 large circuits before hitting a fence. All the grumbles I had, and a few more have been covered here so the new Corsair I am just starting will be far better. I wanted a Corsair that looked like it was on active duty, so for my money it had to be glassed and painted. I sprayed several areas (such as wing leading edges) with aluminium paint before top coating, then I rubbed off the top coat to give real wear and tear and weathering appearance. The real Corsairs had very noticeable panels on the nose and on the wings. these were battered and bent by use and the edges stuck out etc, so I made litho panels to suit with scored panel lines and impressed rivets (circles) and when I stuck them on I made sure some edges stuck up a wee bit, and I worked them to get a few ripples, dents etc. Very realistic for little extra work, and not too much weight penalty as I didn't glass these areas.
The U/C doors were easy to make and were fully functional. unfortunately I haven't got any decent photos to show, but they were hinged with DuBro pinned hinges, snapped open or shut by a weak 'over-centre' spring made from a bow shaped length of fine piano wire and the opening wheels just pushed them out of the way to open them. Closing occured by having a stiff wire attached to each door that was caught by the wheel as it came back up.
The Corsair has to have a retracting tail wheel, the dangling thing that comes with the kit looks all wrong. I made a retracting tail wheel and with hinged scale doors that just looked superb and worked perfectly.
I simulated machine guns by putting strips of duct tape over the holes, as this is what the New Zealand airforce did with the Corsairs they flew in the Pacific in the war.

Great info here - keep up the good work

Hoonnz




voyager_663rd -> RE: Juice's Finish (11/28/2003 3:37:38 PM)

I for one appreciate the extra info that is provided (juice's answer re: finishing is what comes to mind). Saves hunting for it.

If I might offer a suggestion, if your answer is already posted elsewhere, just insert the url in your post. If it's not, you were going to post your answer in any case so just post it where it SHOULD go then insert the link into your other answer.

I still really enjoy reading the added info though where ever it is.




voyager_663rd -> RE: Juice's rcv90 (11/28/2003 4:13:29 PM)

Unrelated, Juice I pm'd you about your rcv90. Thanks




hoonnz -> RE: Juice's rcv90 (11/29/2003 4:13:08 AM)

If I have done this right, it should have a pic of my Corsair showing the the tail wheel doors open etc.

I can see what Jim (CorsairJock) means about the rudder profile - I had not picked that particular fault till I found this thread.

HoonNZ




rlawrie -> RE: Juice's Finish (11/29/2003 2:08:02 PM)

Will you share some details on the design of your tail wheel and operating gear door? A picture or pictures would be great.
Semper Fi
Dick




CorsairJock -> RE: Juice's rcv90 (11/29/2003 2:32:43 PM)

hoonnz,
VERY Nice looking and detailed Corsair, I love it when someone does their homework and does a different finish/ scheme. I noticed you added pitot tube and navigation lights, among the many other details, nice touch. Pardon my ignorance on foreign Corsairs, is that French?
Also, as this is meant to be a 'Show and Tell How' thread, not a 'Show and Tell', info/ details/ pictures and or drawings on you operating gear doors would be greatly appreciated by all who are following this thread.




hoonnz -> RE: Juice's rcv90 (11/30/2003 3:13:48 AM)

I'm happy to share, especially since I have found so much great info here. First, the model is of NZ5385 which is one of 400+ Corsairs that the New Zealand Airforce had thanks to lease-lend and which flew out of Piva in the Solomons in WW2. this particular one was one of the few Kiwi planes that had nose art and it was named 'Aline'. Unfortunately she was painted on after the photos were taken, and just before the brush with the fence.
The tail wheel was knocked up from a Klett tail wheel, attached to a cut-down light steel hinge. I dreamed up a clever mechanism for raising/lowering and later found it is identical to the way Robarts work, so I won't explain that. Steering is by way of cables which are run through holes in the former, slightly above the pivot point of the hinge so that as the wheel comes up the cables go slack. 2 weak springs then straighten the wheel so the doors can close around it, and it doesn't try to turn with the rudder. I marked out the doors by measuring from scale drawings, then had to do a little sanding to make the entire length of the hinge line straight. For hinges I used Dubro or similar small hinges with removable pins, I put one length of piano wire through about 12 hinges, then cut the row down to simulate one long hinge of scalish width. The tongue of the steel hinge that the Klett arm is bolted to extends on and is bent up (into the fuse) to enable 2 ball links to be attached. These are then clipped to the doors and cause them to open and close with the raising and lowering of the wheel. The photo's aren't too good, but I hope they show what I mean.
The aerials and pitot tube I made from aluminium tubing, the streamlined stuff for the aerials. I used some nylon tube that is used as the outer for piano wire pushrods to mount them as it gives when you bump them or whatever. (Don't say crash!)
By the way I put scale exhausts on mine, and ran them right through the firewall as they gave a useful extra cooling air exit. I rolled them from litho plate - great stuff. Finally, to make the tail surfaces airfoil-shape, I sheeted with medium-light 1/4"balsa instead of the relatively heavy 3/32"(?) provided in the kit. By the time you sand that to correct shape I believe it adds next to no weight for little extra work. Most of it ends up as sawdust. Trench out the bottom centre to fit the mount.

happy landings
HoonNZ

P.S. has anyone come up with a better way of attaching the cowl? Trying to get at those cap screws deep in the pitch black bowels of the cowl, past baffles and exhausts and throttle cables etc. makes stamp collecting look quite tempting as a hobby.




rlawrie -> RE: Juice's rcv90 (11/30/2003 2:15:37 PM)

hoonnz:
Thanks for all the good information and the pictures. I hope to be able to start on my TF Corsair soon. You are probably already aware of this resource but the following link will take you to a page that contains Aircraft Numbers (in the case of Corsairs it's BuNos) for many of the aircraft ever bought by the Army, AF, and Navy.

http://home.att.net/~jbaugher

Your Corsair started life as BuNos 50305 (c/n 5552) and was transferred to New Zealand as NZ5385.

Semper Fi
Dick




voyager_663rd -> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (11/30/2003 6:37:03 PM)

I found this pic of the exhaust (don't know where I got it).




CorsairJock -> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (11/30/2003 9:25:15 PM)

hoonnz:
Very nice and detailed pictures. Like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words, and your pictures of the tailwheel retract doors are just that. I LOVE those Klett tailwheels, too bad they are so hard to find these days. And as for the retract you designed: the Robart retract tailwheel leaves a little to be desired, IMO, and you did the right thing by designing your own.
I noticed another thing that you did, that I had been contemplating: you added removable retract covers to the mains. I have seen Top Flite Corsairs that the builder installed the Robart retracts, then sheeted over they area that allows access to the mounting screws, thereby making it impossible to remove the retracts for repairs without stripping off the sheeting. Others, like myself, just leave that area exposed. You have done the right thing: installed covers which can be removed to access the retracts. Well done!
Thanks for sharing all this with us




hoonnz -> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (12/1/2003 2:42:19 AM)

There are a lot of great Corsair close -ups from NZ Corsairs on the site www.kiwiaircraftimages

happy landings
HoonNZ




US185Damiani -> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (12/1/2003 11:10:52 PM)

I have a quick Question,
Has anyone shortened the nose on the TF corsair Gold and if so How much? one beef I see with it as I prepare to build mine is the nose is too long in front of the wing. The section between the wing LE and the aft end of the cowl flaps seems to be overly long. any Ideas on how to change this? My idea is to move the firewall back 1" to see how it looks then. I'll hacve to compare it up to the real deal.

Mike




CorsairJock -> Nose Length (too long) (12/2/2003 5:50:15 AM)

You have brought up a mod which I had forgotten about until now, and you are correct about the nose being too long.
By my measurements, BOTH versions have the nose about 1" too long for to be scale accurate, altho not ALL of this should be taken off at the firewall. For a good reference, download the drawing on post #64, which if downloaded and printed correctly, will provide you with a 1/8 scale drawing of the nose and leading edge which can be laid over your Top Flite plans for comparison. Note that the distance between the cowl front and cowl flap line is longer on the top flight plans by about 1/4". Also note that the cowl flaps are slightly too long.
I have shortened the cowl (BEFORE attachment to cowl flap ring) on my as yet to be completed 'red box' Corsair by 1/4", AND moved the firewall back by 1/4", giving a total reduction of nose to wing leading edge of 1/2". Keep in mind tho, that the reason Top Flight chose to extend the nose was to make this aircraft easier to balance. If you build the tail light, this should not be a problem. If you add a lot of weight by the way you finish it, it could end up tail heavy.




US185Damiani -> RE: Finished Empenage Mods (12/2/2003 11:53:36 PM)

Corsair Jock,
Thanks for the info that is exactly what I was looking for
I'm more interested in appearance than weight worries, I've flown many different R/C Warbirds over the years so a little more weight is no big deal LOL
Thanks
Mike




voyager_663rd -> RE: Finished Empenage Mods (12/3/2003 2:24:25 PM)

regarding operating scale flaps, I've been advised that I should use "bigger" servos on them. I'm using the hitec 425bb (43 oz torque) for all surfaces. With the flaps, will that be enough or should I go to the 475's --two of them -- (61 oz torque) servos for flaps?




Rocketman612 -> Single servo for Flaps (12/3/2003 2:28:45 PM)

I started with the goal of using two Hitec 225's to drive my flaps but was concerned about the the gears holding up over time and the fear of one servo failing for whatever reason leaving asynchronous flaps and doom. So I chose to use a single Hitec 645MG servo (107oz-in) mounted where I was planning to place the retract air canister. The 4-40 pushrods out to the bellcranks take a steep angle so Du-Bro 2-56 swivel ball links for 4-40 rods (#2139) worked here. Look at the trailing edge above the inboard flap. That hole is for the pushrod to exit into the flap. Before sheeting the hole was drilled lining up with the bellcrank. I then epoxied a doubler of 1/16 ply inside between the ribs. When dry the hole was re-drilled slightly larger . The pushrods prevented me from bringing the wing sheeting straight in to the belly pan doing away with that flat area between the curve of the pan and the wing sheeting (forgive me Luke[:)])

I used Du-Bro 90deg nylon bellcranks. for stability the screw post is placed in the mount and a nut with lock washer anchors it. The brass sleeve and bellcrank is placed over the nut and secured with a nylon lock nut. This should be more secure and have less potential for slop. The Servo is at neutral with the bellcranks at 90deg or half way through their full range of motion. when active the full travel of the servo will be used to deploy the flaps.

The next post will show the flap connection. Pete




Rocketman612 -> RE: Finished Empenage Mods (12/3/2003 2:30:15 PM)

A closer look at the Servo installation




CorsairJock -> RE: Finished Empenage Mods (12/3/2003 2:42:57 PM)

The question concerning servos was addressed in posts 81 ~ 85, so please read previous posts to avoid a repeating question.
I am using a pair of Futaba S3004s (standard, ball bearing, about $14 each) for the flaps on mine. I have a little over 100 flights using this setup with no problems. I DO slow it down be fore flap deployment tho, by dropping the wheels first. While this set-up works, it may be pushing the servos to their limit. I would certainly recommend using a high torque servo if you decide to use only one for the flaps. BTW, the 'red box' version DID use one servo, but the weight of the (suggested) linkage (about 4 oz.) made up for not having 2 servos. I thought about using a single, Hi Torque servo on my current Gold Edition version, but changed my mind when I realized how complicated it would have become by adding even more bellcranks, and moving all those linkages inside that bent wing.
Good luck with your efforts, Pete, I hope it works out and you can post your progress. I would still like to do it (single servo) in another Corsair.




voyager_663rd -> RE: Finished Empenage Mods (12/3/2003 3:01:30 PM)

ah yes. so I see.




Rocketman612 -> Flaps (12/4/2003 9:59:32 PM)

For the flap control horn I took a Du-bro "L" horn and reshaped it to size. Next was to make a slot in the flap with a saw. The footprint of the horn is cut out to recess it flush. The screw holes are drilled with a press with the flap top side down so the screw threads line up with the compression plate which is also recessed.

The 4-40 pushrod is cut and a clevis is soldered on. The flap has the soldered clevis end with the adjustable clevis connecting to the bellcrank.

Well needless to say this is alot of work but it looks and works great. Pete




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