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RE: Flaps - 12/4/2003 11:55:04 PM   
F2G-1



Posts: 260
Joined: 12/1/2003
From: Tallmadge, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Pete,

You're a genius. Those flaps look great.
Do you have to set the throw on the servo way down because of such a short moment on the horn? I'd like to build my flaps like yours. Any chance of a simple diagram to help me out?

Thanks,
Ted

(in reply to Rocketman612)
       Post #: 126

RE: Flaps - 12/5/2003 1:18:34 AM   
Rocketman612



Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Ted,
Thanks, but I borrowed Shupack's idea for going through the TE. I will not be carving out a notch for the flaps to recess them in the TE. I will use 1/64 ply lapped over the hinge line to hide the gap. The hatches will allow me to adjust and service the links later.


quote:

ORIGINAL: F2G-1

Do you have to set the throw on the servo way down because of such a short moment on the horn? I'd like to build my flaps like yours. Any chance of a simple diagram to help me out?

Thanks,
Ted



Yes, I'm fine tuning geometry by moving all the clevises for the least amount of movement and decreasing the ATV on the Tx but, you really want the servo to move as much as possible. I will try to get a diagram to you but the photos pretty much show everything.

Pete

< Message edited by Rocketman612 -- 12/6/2003 12:38:55 PM >


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       Post #: 127

RE: Flaps - 12/5/2003 3:48:32 PM   
ganu



Posts: 51
Joined: 9/27/2003
From: gadsden, AL,
Status: offline 		fine looking flaps there, pete.

(in reply to Rocketman612)
       Post #: 128

RE: Flaps - 12/6/2003 5:39:48 AM   
CorsairJock



Posts: 1905
Joined: 4/14/2002
From: Parchment, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Nicely done, Pete, and thanks for another informative and well displayed contribution to this post. Your method of flap deployment is closer to the way the full scale ones operate, so you have also made it more scale. As for your ATVs, you should definately do what you can to utilize full servo throw here, as more throw equals more available torque for a given amount of flap deflection. I noted that all linkages to the bellcrank went to the innermost holes, changing the ones coming from your servo to the outermost holes would allow more servo travel while reducing throw to the flaps, thereby allowing you to increase ATVs.

< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 12/6/2003 5:41:10 AM >

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       Post #: 129

RE: Flaps - 12/6/2003 6:47:36 PM   
Rocketman612



Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Well done with the other side. Pins on the servo arms are at 13mm. On the bellcrank the clevis from the servo is in the outermost hole and the clevis to the flap is in the middle hole. Retracted the servo is at 100% ATV and deployed is at 92% ATV. Not bad Pete

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       Post #: 130

Scale flaps - 12/8/2003 4:52:03 AM   
ezwarbird


 

Posts: 7
Joined: 10/15/2003
From: Kent, WA, USA
Status: offline 		I skipped around a bit on my kit, im done with the fuselage and im sheeting my wings now.....im a little intimidated by the scale flaps. My opinion is that i cant have a model like this without the scale flaps. This is my first kit and i hear these flaps are really tricky. Is there anything i should know about how to rig'em up. the plan and instructions are pretty vague around this area.

(in reply to Rocketman612)
       Post #: 131

RE: Scale flaps - 12/8/2003 2:11:27 PM   
CorsairJock



Posts: 1905
Joined: 4/14/2002
From: Parchment, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Yes, the flaps on a Corsair can be very tricky, and if one has questions regarding their building skills and/ or pateince in getting them properly set up, it may be best to leave them non-functional. As there are 6 seperate flaps, at different angles and dihedrals, it can be very difficult to get them all lined up properly. Patience and persistance are required. If not set-up properly, they can be a detractor to flight performance, and have the potential to really make things hairy when you are flying slow. But if you do have what it takes to make them functional, they are really worth it, on a Corsair more than other warbirds, because they are a big part of the Corsair look. Few other aircraft have such distinct and noticable flaps as the Corsair, AND they do improve landings when set-up right.

Here is yet another pic of my still uncompleted 'red box' Corsair. I have the inner 4 flaps installed (temporary, not glued yet) showing the 'web' between the inner and center flaps which I made from 1/16 hard ply. I use this web instead of music wire for actuation of center flaps to give it a more scale appearance, as full scale have a simular web. I also planned on using one servo on this one, using torque rods on innermost flaps. I have concerns about the strength of torque rods under so much stress tho, so I may re-engineer this into a bellcrank driven set-up simular to Pete's (Rocketman612) set-up.

Also, this wing is set-up for single servo (HiTec 225MG, already installed) aileron operations.

Lastly: THE GALLERY IS FINALLY BACK! Click on "GALLERY" button below to see pics of my Corsairs. I still have and fly the DynaFlite and #167 Top Flite Corsairs, #102 Top Flite crashed due to pilot error/ abuse.

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< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 12/8/2003 2:40:26 PM >

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       Post #: 132

RE: Scale flaps - 12/9/2003 4:34:26 AM   
hoonnz



Posts: 88
Joined: 10/24/2002
From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND
Status: offline 		Jim:

Brilliant work. I see another example of something I wanted to do on my last Corsair, but decided was too difficult. and that's the web between the centre and inner flaps. How did you get round the geometry of it? As I envisage it, the angle of the flaps relative to each other changes as they swing down so I was afraid of everything jamming. Am I visualising it wrong, or have you just allowed plenty of 'slop' to allow smooth movement? What is the shape of the web inside the flap (the one it is sliding in)?

I noticed your reference to the Hitec servo for your ailerons. I have just finished a Capiche 50 for my sports flying persona, and I had used brand new Hitec 225MG servos on the rudder and tail surfaces. I bumped the model when setting it up, a non-event type bump, and was startled to find the rudder servo jammed. The case had split where it formed a bearing for one of the gear stacks. I spoke to the supplier who said this servo is really only for gliders, or models under .40 size, and that being a mini servo meant that the case was not as strong as standard servos and this sort of thing could occur from the normal bumps of landing, getting out the car etc. Scared me enough to swap out the servos to put aside for a more sedate .25 size seaplane I have planned one day.
In the capiche thread I also read that several pilots had used them on their ailerons and found they didn't centre as well as other servos, and a couple of people commented on them jamming occasionally.

I'm a JR man myself, but the new Futaba 3010 servo is getting rave reviews, apparently centres much better, and is a bit more powerful so that is what I am going to. Oh yes, its very reasonably priced to. Don't want to scare you but that is a critical servo!

Happy landings
HoonNZ
(Brian Emslie)

< Message edited by hoonnz -- 12/10/2003 6:31:20 AM >

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       Post #: 133

RE: Wing Tip Modifications - 12/11/2003 11:07:19 PM   
Rocketman612



Posts: 2065
Joined: 1/19/2002
From: Enterprise, AL, USA
Status: offline 		Well I worked on the improving the wingtips. Starting with larger balsa stock I reproduced the angle of the leading edge balsa and T7 rib. I tack glued the balsa and overlayed the template CorsairJock posted. Then cut it out on the scroll saw and glued it on. I had sheeted the wing months ago so I could not trim the bottom of rib T7 as recommended to give you a nice straight taper to the tip. I was able to taper but there is a slight angle at T7. I overlayed the TF tip to show just how off it is. The final result while not perfect is still way better. Thanks for the tip CorsairJock (pun intended) Pete

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Morpheus

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       Post #: 134

RE: Wing Tip Modifications - 12/11/2003 11:32:19 PM   
voyager_663rd


 

Posts: 1193
Joined: 2/11/2003
From: Toronto, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		not having received the kit yet, I can't compare. However, from the pics that difference is substantial. thanks for the pics.

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       Post #: 135

Scale Engine Cooling Fuselage Mods - 12/13/2003 7:25:00 PM   
claikens


 

Posts: 21
Joined: 4/29/2002
From: Quad Cities, IA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm glad to see this thread. I've been looking for ways to make my Corsair more scale. I'm really looking forward to trying to incorporate these mods into the one I'm building. However, I do have a couple of questions.

First, when rounding off the fuselage to do the cooling mod, is it neccessary to reinforce the firewall more? And are your measurements from F1 or F2? I already glued on F1 and I was wondering how this would change things?

Second, I could really use some hints on how to sand the top of the wing. What tools are needed, what have you found that worked well, etc?

Chris

(in reply to voyager_663rd)
       Post #: 136

RE: Scale Engine Cooling Fuselage Mods - 12/13/2003 8:00:07 PM   
CorsairJock



Posts: 1905
Joined: 4/14/2002
From: Parchment, MI, USA
Status: offline 		claikens:

Concerning first question: Gold Edition versions will have a combined 1/4" ply firewall (when F-1 and F-2 are glued to each other). This is plenty thick for just about any engine you may want to install. I did not do any further re-inforcement to mine. But you may wish to add some re-inforcement to the area of F-1 which extends outward from the modified F-2, and specically is for the mounting of cowl ring. I didn't do it to mine, consider it optional. Measurements are from F-2. As you have already attached F-1 to F-2, you would need to add another piece of ply for the cowl mounting, unless you can figure out another way to mount it. Adding more ply would also lengthen the nose tho, and it is already slightly slighty longer than scale. If it were me ( and I have a belt sander to do it with ), I would sand off F-1, do the mods to F-2 and forward fueselage, and make a new F-1 to install. Making a new F-1 shouldn't be much of a task, just get some good 1/8 or 3/16" ply from your hobby shop.

As for second question which concerns sanding the wings: I use a Great Planes 22" bar sander. You can pick one up from your hobby shop while youre there to get the plywood.

On an earlier post regarding my use of Hitec 225MG servos: Please let's not start a servo choice discussion here, but I have the older 205s installed on my DynaFlite Corsair, which has over 1,000 flights (1,500 counting touch and goes), and has encountered it's share of bumps and bruises (and repairs), and has never had any problems with these servos. They use the same case as the 225s.

Thanks, Pete (Rocketman) for the pics of your wingtips. Altho the profile as viewed head on isn't scale ( hard to make the tips with such a sharp edge without making them vulnerable to damage), you got the top view right, and this is one of the biggest inaccuracies in a built per plans Top Flite Corsair. You'll really notice the difference if you park your's next to another, plans built Top Flite Corsair.

< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 12/13/2003 8:02:42 PM >

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Corsair Main Landing Gear Wheels - 12/20/2003 2:15:43 PM   
CorsairJock