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Joined: 10/24/2002 From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND Status: offline
Yes the top 2 are duplicated on the other side. (Actually after I wrote this I pulled out my photos and reference books to make sure, and I am right, except I had the 3rd lower hatch on the left side, it should have been on the right). The circular hatches on the horizontal stab are on the top on the port side and the underneath on the starboard, because Vought designed the stab/elevator to work either way - they don't make a left and right, just flip one upside down. Occaisionally a wartime Kiwi Corsair would be repaired with a salvaged tail off a wreck, fitted on the opposite side to what it was painted for, so one side of the horizontal stab or elevator would be white on top and blue underneath.
I also fitted the trim tabs and their linkages on the rudder and the elevators, you can just about make them out in the picture. They are just for show, being far too small to operate, but they look so real that many of my clubmates have flattered me by trying to move the trim tabs, convinced they work.
< Message edited by hoonnz -- 1/4/2004 1:44:52 PM >
Posts: 88
Joined: 10/24/2002 From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND Status: offline
On my last Corsair I made the Horizontal stab & elevator with a symmetrical airfoil as per scale by sheeting the stab with 1/4" med-soft balsa and then planing and sanding to shape. It was well worthwhile, and with the new one I am just starting to build I am thinking of doing the same with the fin and rudder as well. A friend of mine built a Harvard a couple of years ago (you call it a Texan) and I remember being startled at how fat the vertical tail surfaces were. As I measure it, the fin would be 1" thick at the hinge line. Have any of you done this, or considered it? Any comments?
Brian.
< Message edited by hoonnz -- 1/2/2004 6:35:15 PM >
Posts: 56
Joined: 12/31/2003 From: Newbury,
MA, USA Status: online
Happy New Year,
Very happy so far w/Top flight gold edition corsair. Approx. 1/2 way complete & was wondering if anyone has jambed the OS 1.20 Surpass under the cowl w/muffler in a reasonably concealed manner. (the picture on the plan appears nothing like my OS muffler!) I can't bear to hear a 2 stroke screamin' away on a Warbird. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. By the way, great tip on strengthening the rudder for when she goes ova'!
Posts: 88
Joined: 10/24/2002 From: Christchurch, NEW ZEALAND Status: offline
Think about that, do you feel a 4-stroke single gets close to sounding like an 18 cylinder radial? I've seen and heard a Corsair in the air and it didn't go wheeze-suck-phut-bang, wheeze-suck-phut-bang.
Leave the muffler off the 1.20 and stick it in a Harvard/Texan - that would sound authentic.
< Message edited by hoonnz -- 1/2/2004 3:10:24 PM >
Posts: 22
Joined: 7/16/2003 From: Middletown,
CT, USA Status: offline
nkypockets,
I installed a Supertigre 61 in my Corsair as per the instructions. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_259482/mpage_3/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1187061] After reading these forums and talking with other folks at the flying field, I decided to mount a OS120 in my corsair. I purchased another cowl and installed it inverted. You will need to open up the cowl to let the top of the cylinder to clear the cowl, this wasn't to bad. As far as the exhaust, if you use the stock muffler you'll need to buy a 90 degree header from OS to locate the muffler under the fuselage. After looking at this, I did not like that big muffler hanging out under the fuselage. I took it off, and bought a Supertigre 90, with a Bisson Custom Muffler (Pitts Style) and a new engine mount. This set-up fits into the cowl very nice and will provide all the power I need.
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Joined: 9/30/2003 From: Oaktown, IN, USA Status: offline
CorsairJock, I have been flying a highly modified TopFlite kit for some time now. Concerning your exhaust, one thing that I did that worked nice was install a block of balsa on the inside, glueing it in place. This allowed me to cut a deep triangle shaped hole for the 3 exhaust tubes. I then cut aluminum tubes to the correct angle and epoxied in place. I painted rusty brown on outside and flat black on inside. The effect was fantastic. It really give it the depth that you are looking for.
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Joined: 2/11/2003 From: Toronto,
ON, CANADA Status: offline
One more mod that I haven't seen (hope I'm the first to mention this ) is the step in the starboard inboard flap. I didn't see it mentioned in the plans nor in this thread.
I finally found a close up of it and I was surprised to see that this step goes right through the flap. A nice square hole that you can see daylight through (or rather, the ground).
Anyways, another nice little mod for consideration. I hope this is not a repeat.
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Joined: 4/14/2002 From: Parchment,
MI, USA Status: offline
voyager_663rd, you are correct, and I did neglect to mention the step. This is a simple mod which I have not done yet, it only involves cutting a rectangular hole thru the right, inboard flap. The 'hole' can be seen in the painting I posted in post #43, altho it may appear square in the painting because you can see the belly mounted fuel tank thru the hole. And yes, this hole was used as a step, to help pilots enter the cockpit. There is another step, which is a 'kick-in' type (flush until pushed in) in the right side of the fuelage.
The drawing below is an underside view, showing the step location on the flap (the red area). NOTE, there are steps on the right side only. This drawing is NOT scale (unlike the the others). My trusty D&B drawings did not show the step, so I had to fin another drawing which did, but I don't know the scale of this drawing.
Other 'holes' not mentioned so far are the wingtip hand holds, which are to be used be ground crew (deck handlers) to help manuvers the aircrart around. These go all the way thru the wing tips, and are on each tip.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 1/17/2004 1:03:53 AM >
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Here is a photo of the Kalamazoo Air Zoo's FG-1D, from the rear, of the inboard right flap with step. Note that to use this step, the flaps must be down. In this picture, the wing is folded up, thus the outboard flap is not visible.
Also note that this photo justifies the angle of the step shown in the preceeding drawing: the step becomes parallel to the ground with the flaps down.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 1/17/2004 9:44:15 AM >
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Just in case this will help: Some Corsairs did NOT have the fuselage step...modelers should check their references as to the particular aircraft they are modeling.
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Joined: 11/24/2002 From: Olathe, KS, USA Status: offline
One of the most difficult problems with this is the design and construction af the .50 cal guns and ammunition and the rockets for the later models. Man, some functioning instruments would also be great. Hey, the detail stuff is time consuming! "Keep 'Em Flying!" Flak
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John Rood, thanks for the correction. Preliminary investigation now reveals to me that the step was added into the F4U-1D design, which explains why it was absent from my D&B F4U-1A drawings. Even later variants had a spring loaded door added over the flap step, simular in design to the one on the fuselage side.
Flak, the great thing about many of these details is that can be added AFTER your Corsair is completed, and/ or has flown. The step would be easy to add (subtract balsa, paint to match), or rocket racks (attach and paint to match). Thus, you can build it in somewhat a normal time, have the pleasure of flying it, and gradually add the details as you find time.
< Message edited by CorsairJock -- 1/17/2004 2:09:10 PM >
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Adding a bit of realism 
RE: Adding a bit of realism - 
) is the step in the starboard inboard flap. I didn't see it mentioned in the 
