Balsa Master
Posts: 1002
Joined: 10/7/2003
From: _,
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quote:
be sure of what you have is measure it first. Don't always trust your eyeballs!
the gold ed has a piece of heavy balsa/ply stuff that sets the thrust. its built into the fus between the main stringers. my F2 pieces touch this liek they should but the thrust still looks off, may be the warp. i never eyeball the engine mounting (occasiounaly i eyeball the Hstab placement though) 
quote:
Where is the right thrust built in? It should just be in the mount spacers, the firewall I assume is straight. Up to 3 degrees will be fine, but if it is more then fix it. Did you sand too much of the ply spacer? Or sand more than one spacer, doubling the right thrust?
i have the gold edition, they tried to do me a favor and build in the right thrust for all us idiots out there who cant manage to sand. (note the sarcasm please)
i got a magnum 1.08 in the nose, its not gonna be tail heavy... and the cown doesent sit flat, the f2B and F2 pieces are so warped that at least 1 of the 4 screw points is always away fro mthe former. also, i got lots of stuff i can move around if the weight is infact an issue, though after feeling the engine i doubt it. btw, is 5.1 lbs normal for the fuse wiht no sheeting, engine, radie and retract tail wheel? the plywood that makes the F2 formers is warped in both directions, it makes a waze verticly and horizontaly. everything else came out fine and overall i am pleased wiht the wood supliedi n the kit, though its the heaviest balsa ive ever seen. im gonna end up having to cut a new former, theres no doubt in my mind about that. ne 1 agree with me and jock that cutting hte nose off would be ok, maybe 3/4" - 1" total. also im using CJM air retracts so i could move the air tank around for balance need be. Order from tower comes tomorrow, grand total spent on plane ~ $700 hours building about 20 and all ive dont is build the wing and fuse skeleton! can we say addiction?
btw, my digital camera is full and i need to downlaod images (dont really have 1.5 hours free so... il lget pics to ya later  )
also, since i havent already said it, i have the gold ed. kinda wish i had the red box... or at least had the forsight to not build with that right thrust, maybe ifi didnt id only have 2 degrees 
i like smilies
finaly, would it matter if i (on my next one since im hooked) recut the ribs wiht lighter balsa? as opposed to the almoast ply like material included, you cant even pin through it!! im planing to use that rv 90(hope thats right) thing everyones talking about on second 1 so i can turn that 20 incher... on a positive note, i got a chance to trim al lthe flashing off my prop so i dont cut myself on it ne more also gae a light sanding wiht 600 to 1 remove the MAS logo and 2 to give i a metal look. the lines that run down it just dont have that steel vibe for some reason. what kinda paint should i use for tips?
also im gonna ask again, ne 1 no of a place to get 16 X 4 ish 3 blade props? i dotn care about pitch as long as its big diamiter. heck id take a 20 X 1 is i though my plane would get in the air.
< Message edited by Balsa Master -- 1/25/2004 8:01:48 PM >
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fly hard, crash hard... or don't fly at all!
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Printable Version
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods 
RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods - 
. The right thrust from the motor is in proportion to the torque of the motor so it is correct at all revs. The rudder offset is only correct at one airspeed so if you slow down you are off to the left and if you speed up you are off to the right. 
