RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (Full Version)

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kram51 -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 3:31:35 AM)

I know that one of the revisions Top flite made to the kit was to build the right thrust into the firewall as opposed to the early GE kit where the firewall is at 0 degrees and you have to add the right thrust by sanding the spacer plates. 5 degrees is way too much, I agree. The best way to be sure of what you have is measure it first. Don't always trust your eyeballs!

Mark



Super Corsair -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 4:02:12 AM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: hoonnz

Where is the right thrust built in?


Its built in to the firewall.


quote:

ORIGINAL: hoonnz

Do Not substitute right thrust in the motor with right thrust on the fin/rudder [&o]. The right thrust from the motor is in proportion to the torque of the motor so it is correct at all revs. The rudder offset is only correct at one airspeed so if you slow down you are off to the left and if you speed up you are off to the right.


This is not true. I have taken out the right thrust on other planes and they fly just fine but I haven't tried it on a Corsair yet.



Rebsix -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 4:30:42 AM)

ORIGINAL: hoonnz

quote:

Do Not substitute right thrust in the motor with right thrust on the fin/rudder . The right thrust from the motor is in proportion to the torque of the motor so it is correct at all revs. The rudder offset is only correct at one airspeed so if you slow down you are off to the left and if you speed up you are off to the right.



This is the kind of info I'm looking for on this mod. I'm not sure what the effects will be on a r/c Corsair, but all my reference shows this offset and thats why I want to do it. The real ones didn't have an offset engine and I was trying to avoid that in this plane.

The pic is what I have so far. It is by all means not the final assembly. I simply placed the tail feathers together for the pic.



ganu -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 4:35:44 AM)

this what you're looking for?



Super Corsair -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 5:05:34 AM)

Rudder-Throttle mix instead of Right Thrust

Heres how to eliminate the right thrust.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1405455/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#1414420



jerry



kram51 -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 4:10:03 PM)

Ganu that's it! Thanks!!!

Mark



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 6:38:33 PM)

i havent sanded anything... it just built up that way. and in your pic super corsair, i cnat tell. take a pic wiht no cowl from top. i relize i can fiz it but im tempted to cut the front off anr rebuild it since the wood there is so incredibly warped the firewall wont even sit strait... i may end up just removing that first inch an going for more scale after this little problem, it will certainly help balance my plane. that engine is HEAVY.



hoonnz -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 9:52:39 PM)

If the whole firewall is out of line, how does the cowl sit - is it off to?
I'd be cautious about chopping back the nose. Perhaps others who have built this model can comment and give a consensus, but my feeling is that Corsairs are generally tail heavy and need a great hunk of unwanted lead in the nose, so your heavy engine is at least useful weight. If you shorten the nose you may end with a heavier model.

How about sanding a tapered ply shim to correct the alignment of the engine mount?

Brian



CorsairJock -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/25/2004 11:58:44 PM)

My Corsairs have not been tail heavy. In fact, my first Top Flight one needed the battery pack located behind the wing to balance properly. This was with Saito .72. As most modelers prefer more power/ heavier engines, shortening the nose a little should not pose a problem, unless of course, one manages to build it tail heavy.



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 12:40:58 AM)

quote:

be sure of what you have is measure it first. Don't always trust your eyeballs!

the gold ed has a piece of heavy balsa/ply stuff that sets the thrust. its built into the fus between the main stringers. my F2 pieces touch this liek they should but the thrust still looks off, may be the warp. i never eyeball the engine mounting (occasiounaly i eyeball the Hstab placement though)[8|]


quote:

Where is the right thrust built in? It should just be in the mount spacers, the firewall I assume is straight. Up to 3 degrees will be fine, but if it is more then fix it. Did you sand too much of the ply spacer? Or sand more than one spacer, doubling the right thrust?

i have the gold edition, they tried to do me a favor and build in the right thrust for all us idiots out there who cant manage to sand. (note the sarcasm please)


i got a magnum 1.08 in the nose, its not gonna be tail heavy... and the cown doesent sit flat, the f2B and F2 pieces are so warped that at least 1 of the 4 screw points is always away fro mthe former. also, i got lots of stuff i can move around if the weight is infact an issue, though after feeling the engine i doubt it. btw, is 5.1 lbs normal for the fuse wiht no sheeting, engine, radie and retract tail wheel? the plywood that makes the F2 formers is warped in both directions, it makes a waze verticly and horizontaly. everything else came out fine and overall i am pleased wiht the wood supliedi n the kit, though its the heaviest balsa ive ever seen. im gonna end up having to cut a new former, theres no doubt in my mind about that. ne 1 agree with me and jock that cutting hte nose off would be ok, maybe 3/4" - 1" total. also im using CJM air retracts so i could move the air tank around for balance need be. Order from tower comes tomorrow, grand total spent on plane ~ $700 hours building about 20 and all ive dont is build the wing and fuse skeleton! can we say addiction?[8|]

btw, my digital camera is full and i need to downlaod images (dont really have 1.5 hours free so... il lget pics to ya later [:o])

also, since i havent already said it, i have the gold ed. kinda wish i had the red box... or at least had the forsight to not build with that right thrust, maybe ifi didnt id only have 2 degrees[:)]

i like smilies

finaly, would it matter if i (on my next one since im hooked) recut the ribs wiht lighter balsa? as opposed to the almoast ply like material included, you cant even pin through it!! im planing to use that rv 90(hope thats right) thing everyones talking about on second 1 so i can turn that 20 incher... on a positive note, i got a chance to trim al lthe flashing off my prop so i dont cut myself on it ne more also gae a light sanding wiht 600 to 1 remove the MAS logo and 2 to give i a metal look. the lines that run down it just dont have that steel vibe for some reason. what kinda paint should i use for tips?

also im gonna ask again, ne 1 no of a place to get 16 X 4 ish 3 blade props? i dotn care about pitch as long as its big diamiter. heck id take a 20 X 1 is i though my plane would get in the air.



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 2:20:32 AM)

.



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 2:22:54 AM)

last 2 are my mark II not a corsair, sry.

these are the older pics from about a week ago. my camrea was full so ill take more tomorrow or next day.



CorsairJock -> RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 2:14:23 PM)

Nice job, Balsa Master.
Seeing the elevators with control horn on reminded me of something: be sure to use the outermost hole in the horn (for less travel). My experience with Top Flite Corsairs (and perhaps ALL Corsairs) is that you don't need a whole lot of elevator travel, and that you will be better off having the more precise control offered by using the outer hole.
Also, thanks to EVERYBODY, this thread now has over 10,000 hits!



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 4:17:50 PM)

thanx for info jock, glad i havent assembled it yet [:D]

putting it on the outermost one wil also provide greater tourque preventing some of the flutter that no doubt will happen due to the cheesy pushrod assembaly to tail feathers.



Balsa Master -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (1/26/2004 9:34:00 PM)

just fixed my firewall [:D] ya no it wa a lot easier than it looked, made 2 marks that were in the right place at 0 degrees about 1" behind the F2 pieces and used a flex ruler to connect the points around the fus. then got out my trusty xacto saw and choped it off. will post pics of the old pieces some day[8|]



hannibal -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/7/2004 8:32:34 PM)

Wondering how any of you may have or are planning to deal with the installation of scale looking navigation lights. Wing and tail lights as well as identification lights. What did you use for lights? Lenses? Power? How did you control them? Circuitry? Etc.



Harpoon -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/8/2004 1:53:17 AM)

I’ve done a Guillows static F4U-4 with all the lights as a test stand for a upcoming scale Corsair. On this small model I have used 3mm LEDs but on the larger model I intend to use 5mm LEDs for all accept the landing light.

The model is equipped with all the lights: 3 navigation lights, 3 formation lights, 3 identification lights and landing light. All the lights is powered with a 9volt standard battery, but I can’t use the blue formation light together with the landing light because it draws to much power. The ID light can blink or have a steady light as the original. All accomplished with a small blink relay and a dip switch.

Here is a 2 bad pictures from the building process. If someone is interested I can try to take some pictures from the finished model tomorrow evening and perhaps a wiring diagram.

Cheers Harpoon



rlawrie -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/17/2004 3:39:17 PM)

Harpoon
I would like to see more pictures and the wiring diagram for the diodes including the "blinking" circuit. What are you thinking in the way of landing lights and their power source? I'm converting my TF kit to an F4U-4B (VMA-312) but right now I am sidetracked building a foam cutter so I can make a fiberglass mold for the new cowl with chin scoop.
Semper Fi.
Dick



rlawrie -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/17/2004 3:40:30 PM)

Harpoon
I would like to see more pictures and the wiring diagram for the diodes including the "blinking" circuit. What are you thinking in the way of landing lights and their power source? I'm converting my TF kit to an F4U-4B (VMA-312) but right now I am sidetracked building a foam cutter so I can make a fiberglass mold for the new cowl with chin scoop.
Semper Fi.
Dick



voyager_663rd -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/20/2004 2:51:08 PM)

Regarding retract air guage, I found these on another site. Inset in the dash? I would think they would look soooo cool.



http://shopping.netledger.com/s.nl/c.ACCT103531/sc.7/category.-107/it.A/id.49/.f



hoonnz -> RE: Scale nose (2/20/2004 11:06:13 PM)

I'm started my next Corsair, making the tail surfaces. Apart from changing the shape to scale (did the TF designers get a single curve anywhere on the Corsair correct?) I have sheeted with med-soft 1/4" and sanded that back to a nice airfoil shape. Looks much better and I doubt it added any significant weight - most of it ended up as shavings and sawdust.
While I'm doing this I'm scheming about how to make the nose scale. Below is what I've come up with so far, should be simple and strong. The nose of the fuel tank will fit into the mount box, which puts it at the correct height instead of too high as designed. The ring of cooling flaps is shortened by 1/4"

I have a couple of ideas of how to mount the cowl, but I haven't drawn them yet because I'm ruminating on a bigger challenge, making the cooling gills work. My current thinking is that if they had light springs to hold them open, then at speed the airflow would close them. That way they would automatically flare open for landing, but would be closed for those high speed strafing runs down the strip.

The other thing with the cowl mounting is that I want something easier. The designed method is a pain, difficult to get at those bolts buried so deep in the dark. Has anyone alse come up with an easier fixing method?

Happy landings
Brian



CorsairJock -> RE: Scale nose (2/21/2004 5:25:22 AM)

hoonnz,
Your idea for the fuselage looks like a real winner, and will be more scale than the method that I previously wrote about. It should alos provide all the (heated air) exit area that you should need. I think the old Jemco and Royal kits used a simular design. Thanks for the tip and ESPECIALLY the great drawing!
The only thing I've done to the cowl mounting is to drill out the mounting holes so that short pieces of fuel tubing will fit in. The fuel tubing holds the screws in place while you are attaching the cowl to the fuselage, AND provide a little vibration dampening for the brittle cowl. I use allen bolts, an use a long ball nosed allen driver to tighten them.



Harpoon -> RE: RE: RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/21/2004 6:09:16 PM)

For this project I have used 3mm LEDs, a computer dip switch and a cheep blink circuit for LEDs. To power the lights a normal 9volt dry battery. Some trial and error and math is required to find the right resistance so that the LEDs do not get to munch amps. The blue formation light and the white landing light draw to much current to be on simultaneously.

For my 60 size Corsair I’m planning to use 5mm LEDs but with the same setup except for the landing lights. For the landing light going to use a cheep mini-maglight lookalike powered by two 1.5 volt AA batteries

The blue formation light and the white landing light draw to much current to be on simultaneously.



CorsairJock -> RE: 1/8 scale TopFlite Corsair Mods (2/22/2004 12:48:44 AM)

The lights are a really nice touch, and may even prove useful when the sun starts to go down. I plan on installing the 3 nav lights on a future project. I figure if I run them in series, I could power them from my 4 cell flight pack battery, using a small electronic speed control. Current draw should be very small, so it shouldn't have too much effect on available flight time.

The following was corrects, I got a little dislexic on the part number:
I went to a swap meet today, and bought some 1/8 scale fuel tanks which are marketed by Wing Mfg. These appear to be the perfect scale size for the tanks which were carried by many of the carrier based Corsairs late in WW II (such as my #167/ Bunker Hill based F4U-1D). I plan on installing them soon on my Corsair, and will add pictures to this thread when completed. These tanks are part #901, and are available from Wing Mfg. E-mail Dan Gipe at Wing Mfg. OR see him at the Wing Mfg. booth at the Toledo show.



Flak -> RE: Adding a bit of realism (2/23/2004 5:26:35 AM)

corsairjock,
The "Bent Wing Bird" will never die and neither will this thread. I have followed the countless add ons with great interest. I have named you as, "King Creo" of the knowledge of the F4U Corsair. I have sent numerous Corsair questions to you as I believe you have an overwhelming data bank on this subject. I would like to see you build a Ziroli or other giant scale Corsair with lots of great photos. I'll bet she would be one sweet Warbird.
"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak



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