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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 12:02 AM   
c130nut


 

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From: Madison, MS, USA
Status: offline 		I keep seeing an advertisement for a powerbuss type of setup. It sets up to where there is one battery powering the rec. and another battery powering the servos. That way you have no battery drain on the reciever except the minute power it draws.
Ever seen any of those?
Bill

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 3:36 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Power buss. I have read about them and they should work but on my 130,, dual rec's made it a clean set up and no glitching.

WARNING: I now have 3 delaminations at the wing joiner tube. I have split open the trailing edge and injected with a Hypo syrenge (not for drugs epoxy ) epoxy into the wing with the sheeting pealed back. This has been in areas as large as 6" x 9" directly over the wing joiner. I would specualte that a hard landing will cause the wing to flex and put high stress at this joint. The current design is a 12" joiner 6" in each wing panel. If you can and I haven't looked I would increase this joiner to 24" and 12" in each panel. Also the glue you use to bond the sheeting here is critical. The epoxy repairs I have made have held but he Dave Brown Sorgum has not. Apparently the tension strength of this glue will not hold up at this joint due to the long wing spand. So folks take a good look. If you use the 12" as per plans I reco you use a epoxy to make this part of the sheet bonding. You could use the contact to hold parts together and let the epoxy bond. So check this out.. No magic answer but want you to know where the weak point is.

Now for flying update. I did a public demonstration for a large audience with many people watching. Flight # 13 was first for demonstration in public. Engines now broken in and humming,, demonstration was perfect flight. I flew a second flight up to 500 over the field and went into slow flight. Excellent results very C130 like, you would have thought it was the real thing.

Post about .30 4 strokes not enough power.. Just don't tell my plane, first take off of the day was a 45 degree pitch angle and then level off, just as combat take off. Flying at 1/3 throttle flaps up was very realistic. Now dont think it won't stall,, but shallow banks and low power high up was very nice. Now if I can just learn how to land the dang thing,, I keep dropping it in from 6" and I think this is stressing the wing. I also found out the rear gear on the right side had bent. 6" isn't much of a plop for landing, but 22# dropped 6" while going forward on a grass field might be a bit much. I will monitor the gear and possibly go to 3/16 wire vs the 5/32 I built it with (as per plans) Jim

PS people really liked the big bird demo.

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 7:35 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Well, slowly but surely I'm getting started. Enough studying on the plans, time to start gluing some balsa together. Got the rudder sheeted. It looked pretty flimsy in the raw, so thought I should stiffen it up a little. Also got the sheeting for the stab edge glued and cut to shape. If I get back from the football game in time tomorrow, I might get the stabs sheeted. Have to check if I have enough Pro bond. Haven't cut the cowlings from the nacelles yet, want to wait till the engine comes to make sure that I want to cut it on the cut line provided.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 8:23 AM   
grinder-RCU



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RE: c-130s (in reply to HITNDIRT) Contact Moderator | (Post No. 65)




Boy, what a wealth of info. I appreciate all the help. Jimmy, watch the 3M stuff. We were using the stuff in the black can for our Zagi's, but there is now some new stuff out that WILL dissolve the foam. The automotive 3M stuff is OK, but the stuff you get at H.D, or Lowes will melt the foam.
========
Also sounds like I'll be sticking iwth Pro Bond. Haven't found anything better than that yet. Have a 29% Edge about 3 years old and no delaminating on it.
=====
I'm most definitely going to be looking out for the stab incidence!! Sounds like we may need to have a C-130 rally somewhere, sometime!!
Thanks Guys,
Randy


Now an C-130 rally that sounds cool. hopefully i can have my 132"ws herc done by the end of 2004. Just getting there would be an challenge though as i live in the great white north.

Grinder.

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 8:49 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Tell you what, Grinder, if we get as much snow this winter as we've had rain this summer, we're in for a long winter!! but, long as we have airplanes to build, and RCU, who cares about a little winter. We've already lost a day of school due to Hurricane Isabel, and we aren't even out of September yet.
=====I'm really looking forward to getting this project under way. I got the wing stuff this week. I assume the fuselage will be following shortly. Personally, I'm really partial to the Douglas A-26, but this Herk has just gotten me all stirred up. good to have others here to talk about twins, since I'm the only one in our club that has any twins at the moment. As I make more progress, I'll post some pics.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 5:08 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Ok,, 130 rally is ok with me... when my son returns? (Military Pilot) I hope to convince him to work with me to build the larger 130 with 4 saito .91. That would be father and son project. However I dont' know when that will be possible.

Info on nose door for retracts. I did not install a door. If I had the plans I might have put one on. Ok I was antsy to get this bird in the air so.. no gear door.

PS.. I remove the wing end panels and the fuse with center wing & engines attached will just fit into my LWB Ford. Wing tips go on the rear seat and I am ready to go. Yesterday we had a T/storm at the field and I can load from assembled plane to drive away in under 5 min. (if I don't clean up the oily bird)



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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 5:53 PM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		Well I did a one piece wing..... It may come back to ahunt me, but I just could not work out a well connected three piece wing. I like the idea of the one piece.... just put it in the back of the truck and go....

Any advice on making the hor. stab removable??? I sheeted mine last night.

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Flyin' c-130s - 9/28/2003 5:59 PM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		Hello and good morning, I was looking at the calender today. You up for some flying either the first or second weekend in October? Preferably either Saturday. I can drive down either weekend.

Thanks
Billy Richardson

Oh.. Send me your number(s) so we can talk about times and such if needed.

< Message edited by c130nut -- 9/28/2003 8:12:41 PM >

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RE: Flyin' c-130s - 9/28/2003 6:00 PM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		Disregard the above comment... I was trying to emial it to Jim.
Billy R.

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RE: c-130s - 9/28/2003 7:21 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I made the stab removable and was glad I did. After first flight I needed to reduce the incident by 2 degrees. I put a 1/4" ply bulkhead at the very leading edge of the stab in the fuse. This was only the bottom half of the fuse where the stab is located. I also milled on my milling machine lightening holes. I epoxied a 1/4" ply plate under the rudder. Then mounting was as/ per any wing. 2 dowels in leading edge and nylon 1/4 20 bolts in the rear. I still need to clean up the fillets due to repositioning the stab but this is how mine work.

Jim

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RE: c-130s - 9/29/2003 1:59 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Just giving you a chance to see what others at the field have seen lately..

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RE: c-130s - 9/29/2003 2:48 AM   
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Status: offline 		I am still waiting on the video. It looks marvelous!

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RE: c-130s - 9/29/2003 3:03 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I haven't figured out how to go from VCR tape to digital?

I have a takeoff roll I can send but the .MOV is not supported on this site.

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RE: c-130s - 9/30/2003 3:57 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Well, Here goes. Got the stab halved sheeted, leading edges and tips on and sanded to shape, and have laid out the cuts for elevators, which I am about to do. I used 3M adhesive to sheet the stab. Hope it wasn't a mistake! Seems to be holding real well. I'll still use Pro bond on the wing, since I firmly believe it helps add strength.
After I lay out the cuts to be made for the elevators, or ailerons for that matter, I tape the stab half back into the shuck that the core came in, and that lets it lie flat when I run it through the bandsaw. After that, the core shucks are essentially useless anyway. I used the same method to cut out the ailerons and elevators from the wngs of my 29% Edge and my sons 35% Carden Edge. Works real well.[image][/image]

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RE: c-130s - 9/30/2003 5:36 AM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		Looks good, I just started sheeting my stab. The wing is fiberglassed, but not sanded yet. I have got to remember to use the band saw lik you did... sounds easy.
Bill R.

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RE: c-130s - 9/30/2003 6:19 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		How did you do your wing, Bill? Did you sheet the center section and the two short ends individually and then glue them together, or did you glue the ends on the center section and sheet it all as one? I've got some 48" sheeting ordered, and think I'm going to sheet it all as one piece. I think that's what Jim did. I'm going to make the tip panels removeable, even though I could get a one piece wing in the trailer. The A-26 I had had a one piece wing and it got pretty cumbersome at times. Lost an engine on take off with it, and got it changed into a 3 piece wing real quick!
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 9/30/2003 6:38 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Randy you are right. I did each panel and center as a unit. I used screws into hardwood blocks at the joining edges to hold them together. I bought a 24" gator RC jointer tube about $25 and cut it into 12" lenghts. The most important part as I remember is getting the end ribs matched so the wind will be straight. I put the end ribs on, inserted j/tube. Then glued on 1 rib. Then after the glue set I put the second rib on the first rib and drilled a 1/4" dowel hole about 2" from the trailing edge. Then I removed rib 2 and glued it to the other panel. The joiner tube was inserted, a small 1/4" dowel (didn't glue the dowel). Then the wind was placed in the cores and mated together to get a straight edge. They were weighted until the glue set. (I built and trimmed a special table for this size wing using a NEW door from HD. ) Jim

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RE: c-130s - 9/30/2003 7:36 PM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		Well, the way I did it on the one piece wing was frustrating. I started from the center and worked out. First I used ca to glue the balsa sheeting (4 pieces) into one large rectangle, and the put them in the saddles and glued. Then I would make up the remaing sheeting and do it out to the ends in the same fashion. I did not put any wood ribs on since it was a one piece, but I did put an aluminum tube in for extra support.
Glassing, well I called Bob Sealy and asked him what he recommened....... He said I could dod it the tradidtional way or lay the cloth down and use water-based poly urathane clear coat to cover it. I tried it?.!?!>!>!? Well...... While it does work great as far as getting the intitial cloth down smooth, it does not seem as strong.... and a lot less sticky!!! I found myself wanting to back over it with regular epoxy/ fiberglass cloth for more strength. I have to go now and sand it again, and prime it to get the paint really smooth. If I had to do it over,... I might try something totally different than what I did.....pain in the butt!!!

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RE: c-130s - 10/5/2003 4:54 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		I have the stab completed, and elevators hinged. the engines came in this weekend at the LHS but didn't have time to pick them up yet. Might start on the center section next, since I am still awaiting the fuselage. Got plenty to do anyway. Also, the wing tubes arrived from Gator. the Dave Brown engine mount I got is going to be way too short with the firewall located where it is. I think GP might make a longer mount. Jim, do you remember which ones you used?
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/5/2003 5:29 AM   
grinder-RCU



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Status: offline 		Motivation for us builders.

Grinder.

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RE: c-130s - 10/5/2003 6:11 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I used the Dave Brown on mine.

The Gray Herk looks too real, down to the crew door handle, but where is the adf antenna? Oh.. guess that is years ago..

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RE: c-130s - 10/6/2003 5:28 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Guess I'll wait till I pick up the engines this week and test for a fit. The Dave Brown mount I tested with an O.S. .25LA seems to come up at least 5/8-3/4" short of putting the prop shaft where it needs to be through the front of the cowling. I may have to look for a longer mount. Got my wing sockets glued in tonight. Seems to be going OK so far.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/9/2003 7:25 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		WOW! The fuselage showed up today. Man, that's impressive. Did any of you add any reinforcement to the vertical stab other than the trailing edge tail post shown?
Here's what I've got done so far:
Horiz. stab completed. Wing plug in sockets in, top of wing is sheeted. Now to get all the wire channels, servo pockets, etc in the bottom, and get the nacelle locations plotted. Picked up the engines yesterday, and got free spinners with them due to the thing O.S. is running. Spinners are even the right size! Don't know if I'm going to want polished aluminum though.
Randy

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c-130 Rudder - 10/10/2003 3:47 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I found the rudder to be very flexable and was concerned that it would not hold geometry. Rather than hard balsa which I thought was a questionable find at the LHS or MO that I decided to use Spruce. I bought a 2x4x8' at local Home Depot. Then I ripped a 1/2" section longer that the height of the rudder by 12". I then used the rudder to mark the outline on the 1/2" cut spruce. I cut the spruce on my table saw and matched the taper. I rounded the top on the belt sander to match the curves at the top of the rudder. Now concerned on weight I marked for the robart hinges and allowed 1/2" on either side of the hinge for strength. Then I milled (dremel if you don't have vertical mill) slots between the hinges to reduce weight. Installation was VERY tight to prevent movement. I mounted a 3/16" ply plate to the top of the fuse that was about 3x4". This was epoxied to the top. Prior to installing I marked and cut a matching rectangle hole for the rudder post to pass through. After the plate was installed I installed (w/o gluing) the post to adjust the precision of the fit. The taper on the rudder post made a tight fit in the top plate. After this fit was completed I installed another 1/4" plate in the bottom of the rudder for the rudder post to pass through. This plate also became the drilled/tapped plate for the 1/4x20 nylon bolts that hold the stab on like a wing. The bottom plate had 1/8" gap side to side so the rudder post would move and allow adjustment of the angle to get 90 degrees. I then used 30 min epoxy and installed the rudder post. I inserted a wood screw in the gap on the side of the bottom plate rudder post and screwed it in to adjust the rudder post to 90 degrees. After the screw was adjusted I used many clamps and clothes pins to hold it until the epoxy set. I did notice the rudder curvature on left side was greater than the right side and this appeared to be molded in and not adjustable. I also mounted the rudder servo inside the rudder forward of the hold down bolts. I am sure there are other ways to do this but this worked for me.

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RE: c-130s - 10/10/2003 3:49 AM   
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Status: offline 		FYI I did photo the entire building process and will probably have pics for those that would like to have a pic. Remember 1 pic is worth ??

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