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RE: c-130s - 10/10/2003 4:44 AM   
rryman


 

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From: Harrisonburg, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Good Info, Jim. I appreciate that. I'm going to do something to stiffen it up. I do have some hard balsa (Bud Nosen stuff I bought back in the 80's at a swap shop) that I planned on using for the rudder post. I believe I'm going to attach the stab permanently. I've got the top of the wing sheeted. Figured that would stiffen it up a little. Also sheeted the bottom trailing edge of the center section to avoid dinging up that thin edge of foam. I have the nacelles in their initial position and am going to start to determine where the wire channels should be. Seems to be going OK for now.
Thanks for the info,
Randy

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Fixed Stab.. - 10/12/2003 8:46 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		If you decide to permantely attach the stab, I reco you make sure your incident is correct. I had to make 3 adjustments to lower the leading edge and still should do one more 1/16" move. Mine would not take off with positive incident on the stab unless full flaps were deployed. On the first flight when I attempted to raise the flaps there wasn't enough up elevator to maintain level flight . The first day flying was all completed with full flaps. Day 2 had the stab lowered 1/8",, and with flaps up could maintain level flight with full aft elev stick . Day 3 stab now lowered 1/4" Able to fly level within trim of controls. Adjusted trim and flew stable. Day 4 I set flap to elev mixing and ail to rud mixing. Now it flys well but still could use another 1/16 to 1/8" move . These adjustments would have been very difficult if I had epoxied the stab on.
Just FYI..

And Yup.. that is a stinger 1.2 in the background w/1.8 on it and zaggi w/o 1.8

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RE: c-130s - 10/13/2003 4:11 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		At this point, I am planning on fixing the stab. But, I haven't got to that area yet. We'll see how it goes and maybe I'll make mine adjustable also if I can't be absolutely certain that it is set correctly.
Thanks again,
Randy

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Landing the Big Bird - 10/20/2003 7:32 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I have completed 15 total flights on the Herk and now have about mastered the landing. Ok quit , but the first landing was a drop in from 3'. All takeoffs were at full flaps and this works well. The first 10 landings were also full flaps, but what I found is that in the flare the speed drops so quickly with power off the plane will quit flying and drop in. Usually for me this was about 12". This week I practiced only landings. The landings were 1/2 flaps and when the flare initiated two clicks of power was added. This additional power gave enough power to overcome the drag and fly level about 12" over the runway. The plane was then allowed to settle on the mains. Cool landing.

After making 3 half flap landings I decided to do a touch and go. The t/g was a 1/2 flap landing but after full power was added, full flaps were lowered, Really good looking take off. The take off is slow speed but at a high lift condition and the plane looks very realistic. The plane is allowed to climb full flaps to about 50' then a 180 turn is made to down wind. When stable on downwind I pull the flaps up and the plane accelerates then I power back for nice flying.

WARNING.. DO not pull the flaps up immediately after take off. The low speed will result in a high sink rate and if you are turning this is really bad. If you are at 50' and going straight out you might get away with it.

Good flying.. Jim

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RE: c-130s - 10/20/2003 9:07 PM   
Strykaas



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Status: offline 		Hi,

Why don't u try to better hide the ugly engines/mufflers ? It's a real pity, given the overall quality of the aircraft... That really destroys the look !

I think that in this case, you could simply mount the engines upside down, and fit some kind of muffler right behind them. No ?

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RE: c-130s - 10/20/2003 9:50 PM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		It looks like it flies beautiful. Good Job!

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 12:03 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Strykaas, Critique is easy,, I have received a fair share of critique.

Building is a bit more difficult. Please send photo of yours.

Flying is just a little bit more difficult. Please send your airborne photos.

You are so right about safety and thank you for pointing it out,

that's why I have
safety glasses,
tie the plane down,
use elec. starter,
and have a safety person behing the plane operate the glow plug heater
use a very specific starting procedure so no hands never touch the prop, therefore no glovers. Touching the props are not permitted, Just like the real thing....

Needle valves are adjusted by shutting all engines on one side down, then adjusting and restart.

I know it is a bit tedious but it is safer. Thank you for your concern. After 50 years of flying models I still have all body parts, but a club in the neighbor state has had a very serious injury. Lets all fly safe.

"If we didn't crash 'em, where would we store 'em ?"

Strykaas, you are so right, I build 1 plane each year and currently have 15 flyable models. I guess that's what happens when you are very detailed in the building and flying. I have lost 1 plane since 1985,, but then my transmitter did fail and was replaced by the American MFG ACE INC. (While working I missed building for a year or so)

Just incase you are wondering I fly at least 6 times / month and use not less than 2 gal/s of fuel / month. So I am having a real serious problem storing. My wife told me today I had to stop building due to lack of storage space. I plan to build a C47 or B 17 as next project so once you are right again.. but I just haven't crashed in a while. I am sure it will happen then I will have a little more room.

Thanks runover1

All reading this have a nice day.. and peace be with you!

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 3:29 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Well Jim, I guess I'll be sending my pics to you back channel. Wouldn't want to ugly up this thread with anymore "exposed" engines! I studied the idea of inverting my engines also-for about 10 seconds. Then, proceeded to install them the way you did. I've had all the misery I want trying to keep inverted 2 cy. engines running at idle. And I don't plan on adding an on-board ignition system to it.
What do you think of the idea of using Flaperons as opposed to installing Flaps? I still haven't decided on whether or not to install the flaps and add the two additional servos. We have a very short grass field, and 1000' of runway. I thought maybe a little flaperon at take off might do the same. What do you think?
I'm about to the point of installing the nacelles to the center wing section. I'm still debating alignment procedures over in my mind, so am working on some other items while I settle on that. Started work on the Vert. Stab tonight, putting in the rudder post and some stiffeners. I liked the method you used and plan on doing something very similar.
later,
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 4:21 AM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I installed flaps on the non-removal part of the wing, (not the removable tips where flaps are shown). I did not use Fowler flaps, but just old fashion drop down. I used the outline and CA hinges. The flaps were 1/16" ply. I also fly on a very short grass field. (pics above). W/O flaps it takes a long run. I won't take off w/o flaps down. I don't think you will get enough lift with just flaperons. (just opinion of course.) I really reco. you at least do what I did. I can send photo of the rigging I made to get equal movement on both flaps on the same wing with 1 servo. Works well. You are right. Inverted engines makes it difficult to get to the plugs and you would have to use remote G/driver. I realize there are many ways to do the flaps and I wish you the best.. But please don't just flaperons. Jim

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 5:27 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks. I think I'll go ahead and put in the flaps. Sounds like it will be a help. If you have a pic of how you did yours, I'd appreciate a peek at them.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 6:06 AM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		Why can't you mount the engines at 90*left where the top is at 9:00. The mufflers would be mostly inside the cowl then, right. I think someone said the small fuel header tanks were in the nacelles.

Oh Jim, I uh have plenty of storage space up here, send them on up. Haha!

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 6:22 AM   
William Robison



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Status: offline 		runover:

Jim does have his engines mounted with the cylinders at 9:00 - see post 34.

Bill.

PS: I don't know if it's 9:00 AM or 9:00 PM. though. Haw. wr.


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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 6:34 AM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		OK, now I see it. I know a guy in Burtonsville, MD that works at Hobby City who is building a 13'2" wingspan C 130. It has been I think 2 years already and he is still no where near done. He said he is nounting 4 Saito 91's in it, and the exhaust will run out the back of the nacelle. He is going for a real scale appearance. If I recall right, he thinks his weight will be around 75#.

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 6:55 AM   
William Robison



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Status: offline 		Runover:

If that fellow at Hobby City is the one with the unusual name (can't think of it right now) then he's the one I bought a Kyosho helicopter from about four years ago.

When I was living in Sykesville I got piddly stuff at a store in Laurel, but for major things the store in Burtonsville was far more likely to have it.

Bill.


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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 7:00 AM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		They are grat in there. They also have quite a few consignment planes, that is where the real deals are. Good store though.

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 3:20 PM   
Strykaas



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Status: offline 		Jim,

I was not criticizing your work, definitely. In addition, I guess keeping a four glow engined aircraft airborne is no easy task.

I know it's not easy to hide the mufflers. You generally have to build your own custom mufflers, with good soldering technique. I do not master this at all, but I would like to, as I plan building a twin with hidden engines. I think i'll go with copper sheets soldered together with tin. However, I've heard that this soldering stuff does not comply with the high temps, so I will use a long header pipe + custom muffler.

I'll post them here as soon as I got I right ! Or maybe I could start a thread on this subject.



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c-130s - 10/21/2003 4:51 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		I used Ball links to allow the flaps to move through the arc. The Links are on both ends of the connecting rod. CA hinges were glued to the surface not inside the sheeting. I f/glased over the CA hinges and this has been no problem. You will notice the linkage has a brass link. What you can't see is the brass is bent 90 degrees over the control horn and bolted on to prevent one flap from leading the other. This allow both flaps to move the same amount and remain even. You can see the CA hinges before glassing. This is the technique I saw on jets for speed brakes and works well here. If you would like a closer shot I can do it ,but leaving for a week and can't get it until I return.

Out for a week,, ya'll have fun..

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RE: c-130s - 10/21/2003 8:05 PM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		You could always braze it instead. It is a lot hotter and turns the copper black, but it works great in HVAC work.

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RE: c-130s - 10/23/2003 11:06 PM   
jimcork1



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Status: offline 		Guy's I am on vac.. back in 2 weeks.. vettdvr

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RE: c-130s - 10/26/2003 8:10 PM   
multimike


 

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Status: offline 		HI Jimcork 1 I am currently scratch building the C130,from my own plans I was trying to figure out what the wing span on your bird was, mine is 104 inch which gives me 1020 square inches, you state yours is 2000 square inches , did I miss something here, I agree about the landing gear, I fly off a grass strip and already planned to have the gear lower , your bird looks great, I fly several multi engine models and there is NOTHING like the sound and sight of these birds Mike

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RE: c-130s - 10/27/2003 5:56 AM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		I'm building the same plane Jim has. I saw that post also. Must have been a typo. I'm coming up with about 1053 sq. in. near as I can figure. the wingspan is 102". Jim has already helped me immensely with his posts here. I'm planning on making my gear adjustable when I do put it in. Haven't got to that point yet, that's still undergoing thought!
Sounds like you have yourself quite a project. I couldn't imagine scratch-building one of these. Other than an A-26 I built solely from bought plans, this is about the biggest undertaking I've done.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/27/2003 11:44 AM   
runover1



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Status: offline 		What brand of plans do you have? Did you get them off eb*y? I really would love to do this as well and have looked at several differant types of plans. The most recent I have seen were Pamer plans, I think.

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RE: c-130s - 10/27/2003 6:09 PM   
multimike


 

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Status: offline 		re plans, I liked the skip Mast bird but after 50 years of modeling I am still not into foam and glass so I have used the plans to scratch built the bird with balsa and ply , re engines. my last multis I have mounted the engines on a 45 degree angle, this allows the mufflers to clear the nacelle and be under the wing also I have found getting to the glo plug on the port inner can be a real hassle, Mike

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RE: c-130s - 10/27/2003 7:50 PM   
rryman


 

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Status: offline 		You're right about the glow plug thing on the port engine. I have the same problem with my TF DC-3. Had to get a short ignitor to get to it. I also mounted my engines on the 130 like you did, mainly so the muffler would clear the nacelle, and at the time I didn't even think about the glow plug. One of these days I'm going to try one of those on board ignition systems.
Randy

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RE: c-130s - 10/31/2003 6:49 PM   
c130nut


 

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Status: offline 		You guys need to look at the Palmer Plans for the C130. I think you must have a PhD in Rc Theory of Building to make them work. VERY Complicated!!!!! I got my last engine today for my American Eagle C130. I also have started to sand the glass on the wings; next is to primer it to smooth the paint. Still thinking about the retracts though. Engineering it seems to be a little daunting. I need to go to Jim's house to see his before I do it.

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