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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/16/2012 3:10 AM   
doxilia



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Ralph,

No way! You have a 4 week window to get the paint done. Mid October should still be doable in PA. Take a week off if needed. With lacquer it can be done! Trim next weekend (2 colours), final trim the following with a rubdown the following day in prep for CC. This last can be done in a day.

Your paint will be done and with ambition you could have her in the air by the end of October or sooner.

Net result? November you can finish up the U25 and get s new project underway this Winter.

How's that for a little heavy handedness...?

David

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/16/2012 4:28 AM   
R_G



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Four trim colors, one weekend per color + one for lettering + one for clear + one for any issues that crop up = 7 weeks. Not going to take any time off! Not going to rush it at this point! It gets done when it gets done!

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/17/2012 5:30 AM   
Roguedog



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Hey R_G,

I've been following your thread and although your are finally gtting ready to shoot the color coat I wanted to suggest that maybe the U_Pol primer was the cause of the pinholing problem you had. I went to thier website and downloadd the MSDS sheet and that Primer was not laquer primer.  According to thier MSDS sheet the main three ingredients are;

1. Ethyl Methyl Ketone
2. Butane (most likely propelant)
and
3. xylene.

Definitly not laquer primer.

Since the dope can be re-wetted with more dope, whether it's Nitrate or butyrate, I'm thinking that primer is the culprit not the sanding sealer. I do think you were right about the sanding sealer shrinking up more than it should have but I don't think it was the cause of the horrible pinhole problem you had. I can imagine how you felt when you realized the extent of the problem.

As I was following the thread and I came across the wing pics where they were almost completely red I was gonna ask what it was that you were putting on the wing. After viewing all those pics I realized you were having a really bad time with pinholing.

I wanted to share that I used the same process you are using on a sig Kobra I built years ago only difference was I didn't use any gray primer rattle can or primer that you mix and spray . After I had sanded and recoated the dope multiple times until  I finally believed i had what I thought was a good sprayable base and I went straight to color. At that time I used 3 different colors of Krylon spray paint and it worked great, no pin hole problems.

The Technical Datasheet for the High 5 U-Pol primer also suggests using it as follows

HIGH #5 can be applied to the following surfaces:-
• Fully cured paint.
• Polyester bodyfillers and F.R.P. (Fiber Reinforced Pastic or Polymer)

which suggests to me that it's probably to hot for dope hence the cause of the pinholing.

the following pdfs and the MSDS and TDS maybe not in that order.

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/18/2012 2:06 AM   
R_G



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Thanks for your input Bryan. You may be right, I don't know. All I know for sure is that I'll never use any type of butyrate product again! I've had too much trouble with that stuff. The areas that were just coated with nitrate dope or epoxy were fine.

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/18/2012 3:01 AM   
crankpin


 

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Thanks for that paint info Bryan. Very nice build Ralph.

Crank

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/18/2012 4:30 AM   
Roguedog



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Ralph,

As for the pin hole issue, if it was me, I don't think I would have handled it as well as you did. I most likely would have been so upset that I would have had to walk away from it for a few months So good job keeping the pedal to the metal. 

By the way I really love the way the balsa looks right after the last coat of dope goes on. More than any other time that's when you can actually see all the work and craftsmanship you've put in the plane. Other than these build threads most will never see the progression of the build and enjoy the satisfaction that comes when it all comes together. Painting covers up al the great work done so only the builder knows whats on the inside.
As with your build and other builds i get a chance to vicariously take part and enjoy the results until I can find the time to build myself. Nice job.

Bryan


 



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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/18/2012 3:18 PM   
JeffH


 

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I used some sig nitrate over tissue a few years back and sprayed it with several different kinds of primers with no pinholes at all. Top coated with Dupont Centauri and all was well.

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/22/2012 3:19 AM   
R_G



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Finally......a white base ready for color!

<- - - - - - - -This is me doing the "Happy Dance"!

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/22/2012 3:33 AM   
pitstop000



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Hey Ralph,

She’s Looking smooth there Bud! SWEEET! 



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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/26/2012 2:54 AM   
R_G



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Thanks Paul!

We have color!

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/26/2012 5:15 AM   
hallstro



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You can't know how cool it is to receive an email update from RCU indicating a new post on this project! Absolutely amazing work. Thank-you again for your building skills and for sharing your work.

Dave

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/27/2012 1:38 AM   
doxilia



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Ralph,

That's some nice looking stuff!

What other colours will you be using?

David

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/27/2012 2:13 AM   
R_G



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quote:

ORIGINAL: hallstro

You can't know how cool it is to receive an email update from RCU indicating a new post on this project! Absolutely amazing work. Thank-you again for your building skills and for sharing your work.

Dave

Thanks Dave! That's nice to hear!

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/27/2012 2:18 AM   
R_G



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quote:

ORIGINAL: doxilia

Ralph,

That's some nice looking stuff!

What other colours will you be using?

David

Thanks David!

At this point the plan is for orange, metallic purple, more black and possibly a little metallic silver. Not completely sure about the silver just yet. We'll see how things go.

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 9/30/2012 2:06 AM   
Gene Margiotti


 

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Beautiful job R G. I had to laugh though, because I have some colors in those same cans and I believe that my colors are at least 25 years old!! The good stuff never goes out of style.

Gene

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/1/2012 1:09 AM   
R_G



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Thanks Gene!

Yeah, acrylic lacquer is the only way to go as far as I'm concerned. It's so easy to work with! It took a lot of thinner to rejuvenate that old stuff, but it finally came around! I hope Trinity 1945 continues to produce acrylic lacquer for a very long time! It seems every bit as good as the DuPont and PPG brands that I've used.

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/1/2012 3:21 PM   
JeffH


 

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Do they sell in quarts or pints? A gallon of laquer is A LOT of paint for RC usage.

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/2/2012 1:41 AM   
R_G



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Unfortunately they only offer it in gallons. A gallon of paint for model use is a serious commitment for sure, but I have several airplanes on my Bucket List and the majority of them will be painted. So, I think most of the paint I buy from them will be used eventually.

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/2/2012 2:42 AM   
Roguedog



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quote:


Edit. I just checked and the laquer paint has a 2 to 5 day ship time if not in stock

Jeff

Go here and you can get laquer in quarts. If you order before 12pm PST it will usually ship the same day.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/rspcolors.aspx   Scroll down click on the color you want it will take you to another page where you select the type of paint e.g. Laquer, Urethane, or Acrylic Enamel. After that scoll down to select the quantity quart, gallon, or kit

I believe it's PPG paint or at least based on PPG's color chart. Scroll down for color chart or you can order a paint chip flyer here for a more accurate representation. http://www.tcpglobal.com/restorationshop/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=RSP+CC-144

Also you can use the same paint chip flyer to get the paint in 3 other different formulas depending what you want.

1. Urethane basecoat + clearcoat with hardener
2. Acrylic Enamal single stage with hardener
3. Single Stage Urethane with hardener

Bryan

< Message edited by Roguedog -- 10/2/2012 3:11 AM >


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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/2/2012 6:28 PM   
JeffH


 

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Ive never used laquer other than shooting inside of my 69 Mach 1 years ago. What are the advantages of laquer for our usage other than super quick dry time. If you are going to urethane clear over it, do you still do it in the 24 hour window, or should you wait for it to cure totally then scuff it and shoot the clear. I notice the TCP stuff says that all coats of laquers hsould be completed within 24 hours to prevent crazing.

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/2/2012 6:57 PM   
doxilia



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Jeff,

lacquer is very different from enamel or urethane. Lacquer doesn't cure (i.e., there is no hardener involved), it air dries. It goes on like if it was atomized "powder" (although different brands vary a bit) and dries in 10-15 minutes as the solvents evaporate quickly. It's important to recoat while the paint is "fresh" as shooting atop a dry coat can lead to crazing. But this is the beauty of it - you can shoot thin layers and achieve complete coverage within the hour.

One other advantage of lacquer over "thicker" type paints is that it goes on quite thin and you are better able to control weight. Typically 4-5 coats of lacquer are equivalent in coverage to 2-3 coats of enamel while still being lighter. Lacquer, like most enamels, is not fuel proof so an acrylic urethane CC is needed to protect the finish. In order to achieve a nice smooth uniform finish, one can wet sand the lacquer which removes the powdery feel on the surface and leaves it reasonably smooth. It leaches a fair bit while being sanded but if it's good quality, it won't actually sand thin, so to speak, to the point were you have sanded all the colour off. It's a good idea to sand using 800 grit and above. I like starting with 800 and moving up to 2000 grit. It leaves a uniform surface with no paint ridges at colour/base colour divisions. Note that his sanding is "smoothing" the base coat rather than "scuffing" it. A good quality urethane CC doesn't need a lot of "grip"; it primarily needs a clean surface so what I do before shooting the CC is to wipe the model down with 90% alcohol. The alcohol won't attack the lacquer. Then, just before shooting the CC, I tack cloth the model. Acrylic urethane can go over top just about anything. Try shooting lacquer atop urethane and that's another story all together - it don't work...

If you haven't used it on models, try it, you'll like it. I don't expect to shoot anything other than lacquer or waterborne paint from now on. The only place one needs acrylic urethane (which by the way is very toxic and one should be covered head to toe), is in the CC top coat. All the auto manufacturers now use waterborne paint by law (EPA mandate). DuPont Cromax is supposed to be particularly good but I'm sure still a tad trickier to shoot than lacquer.

By the way, you can shoot CC atop lacquer just as soon as you've finished wet sanding and cleaning. It's dry and non-volatile after an hour.

David

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/7/2012 8:14 PM   
R_G



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More color!

An Ocean of Orange......well.....a small creek anyhow!

Tip of the Day: DO NOT wear nearly new, white tennis shoes while spraying orange paint!

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/7/2012 8:16 PM   
R_G



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A few more pix.

RG

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/7/2012 8:24 PM   
EscapeFlyer



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This has GOT to have Joe Bridi grinning ear to ear....

Brian

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RE: My Wood & Foam Bridi UFO Build - 10/7/2012 10:20 PM   
dhal22


 

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Can you imagine trying to wrap this work of art in plasticote? Thank goodness classic pattern builders paint. This is going to be beautiful.

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