RE: Swick Taylorcraft

RE: Swick Taylorcraft
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RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 12/30/2006 7:47:06 PM

Posts: 31
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Elmira, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Hi Dave coincidence us both being on line at the same time. The larger of the 2 Braces arms or whatever we should call them I inserted 3 ribs deep as yes I thought that only one would make it weak also. Mind you the wing supports on this model are fully functional.Oh to get the diehedral you set plane upside down on the bench with the fuse at where wing fastens on a book at I believe 1" thick (could be 3/4"

check plans. You now insert wings if they touch table both sides make and fit wing supports ,and drill part wing slides into so that wing is bolted in place.Mine has 8 bolts four for front of (2)left and (2)right wing and four for the rear(2) left and (2)right wings. If you don't have enough diehedral it says to sand the part inserted into the spar boxon the fuse. I just checked says 3/4" which isn't a whole lot so time your wings are mounted they will be nice and snug on top where you see them with a slight space underneath

(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 12/31/2006 3:38:03 PM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

Thanks hifly2104,
I understand the struts are functional. Even with the main spar 2 ribs deep it wouldnt be sufficient to support the forces exerted on these wings for sure! But I am going to go one rib beyond what the instructions call for just for overkill sake...
I think that I'll simply ship up the outside wing tip 3/4" and adjust the root rib angle to plum 90 degrees to establish the correct dihedral and a nice finish fit to the wing box on the fuse. I didnt see the instructions indicating to shave off the main spar bottoms inside the box to establish the recommended dihedral but may have just missed it.

I would like to know more about your explination on how you secured the main spars within the 'spar box' with bolts.
Pictures would be good...
Wouldnt they be seen threw the top window? Would that even be an issue??...

Again, thanks for the quick response.

Dave

(in reply to hifly2104)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 12/31/2006 7:03:14 PM

Posts: 31
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Elmira, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Not a problem Dave.I have some other pics too to show how far along I am . In fact I was just putting on Balsarite as I will start covering today. The bolts go through the spar box into blind nuts . So you need to drill and instal nuts first before you set up the dihedral.When the plane is finished you remove the glass over the cockpit to access the bolts for the wing. That is the one problem I haven't solved yet ,how to hold in the Glass canopy. Well here are the pictures including the glass canopy and engine installed

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(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/1/2007 4:12:13 PM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

Very Nice! Seems I've stumbled into this build at the right time with you having plowed threw the problems I now am leaning on you to answer

.
What engine have you chosen and what are your performance expectations from it?
Are there 2 fuel tanks? If so, How do you join them?

I like the blind nut / bolt threw the spar box. Before committing to the blind nut location I think that I'll set the dihedral first and drill threw the complete box / spar assembly as its held in position, then insert the blind nut in the hole on the fore side of the spar box. If that makes any sense...

Because my main spars do not run paralell to each other I had setup my bandsaw and cut the appropriate angle into them so that they sit flush with the spar top / bottom for optimum gule adhesion. Some finish sanding made them a nice snug fit. I'll do the same today with the smaller rear spars and epoxy them all into position.

From there its on to the ailerons. I have decided on the 'Frise ailerons'. I believe the plans outline this sufficiently but if you have pictures, they too would be appreciated. I want to support the span of the ailerons with stiff wood as there is no center support with this type of aileron. And they are pretty big... The 3/16 sheet overhanging the rear spar to cover the gap seems a bit flimsy and easily damaged. I was considering a small triangle to run under and support this surface.
I was only going to sheet the root as per the plans even though I'm running the main spar back an extra rib. Did you do this or have you extended your sheeting to the 2nd rib out?

Balsa block seems like a waste for both wood & weight for the wingtips. I'm going to attempt to fashion them out of 1/4" or 3/8" balsa with a hollow core if I can figure out the angles. If not, I wont wast much time in reverting back to solid balsa tips...

Did you do any more than the plans called for with the strut attachments? I have never built a plane with functional struts and want to make sure I have enough strength for them. Anything else you can recall when building your wings, I'll shamefully take!

Thanks Again!

Dave

(in reply to hifly2104)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/1/2007 7:19:46 PM

Posts: 31
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Elmira, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Hi again Dave .I am using a MDS 148 see pics of it installed. This engine is in the range of 3hp so if you wanted unlimited verticle in this plane well I would think you would have it Yes my plane has 2 fuel cells . Joining them is fairly easy But think I need to draw a picture as trying to tell how could make it complicated Ok line from carb to 1st clunk in rt tank.2nd clunk in 1st tank to 1st clunk in 2nd tank(depending on how you fill your cells I prefer the way in picture) 2nd clunk in cell 2 goes to fuel dot Vent line or pressure line bends up to top of cell as normal instal. You need all the clunks to be able to get fuel from one tank tothe next and to remove all fuel from the tanks when finished flying.. I know some fuel dots use a T but I prefer the extra clunk myself

"I like the blind nut / bolt threw the spar box. Before committing to the blind nut location I think that I'll set the dihedral first and drill threw the complete box / spar assembly as its held in position, then insert the blind nut in the hole on the fore side of the spar box. If that makes any sense.." What you say make s sense My plane was partially built so holes where already drilled and nutted
When it comes to the ailerons you are on you own as the previous builder used large robarts pin hinges. As you say though the plans seem to give adequate detail on this though

"I was only going to sheet the root as per the plans even though I'm running the main spar back an extra rib. Did you do this or have you extended your sheeting to the 2nd rib out?" Well I guess it depends on if you count the rib closest to the fuse as being #1 mine then goes out to the 3rd rib I also doubled the main spars with Balsa on each side for shear webs
I had the balsa block for mine . But the other wing already built the tip is hollow (looks as if he carved it out). So I will now have to add weight to the wing with the hollow tip to laterally balance the plane
I haven't got to the struts yet but will take pictures when I do them. I will probably get some sheet metal from work for the ends. . Oh yes I wasn't overly impressed with how they just used one rib for support either haven't done anything yet but probably will try and spread support over at least 2 if not 3 ribs.
Yesterday I said I was having dead ends with how to fasten my glass canopy over the cokpit (see photo) any ideas. Best ideas from another forum is to use earth magnets

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(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/1/2007 8:38:56 PM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

I'm spending my new-years day between glue jobs and the internet...
Magnets sound like they would work although i'm skeptical about the vibration.
We have a velcro-like material where i work that both surfaces are interlocking plastic tabs instead of the regular velcro cloth & plastic hooks. Not sure if anything like this is avail. Even if not, regular velcro would work probibly as well as magnets.

The graphic of the fuel system makes sense. Thanks.
I think I'll try to stick to one tank and keep it as simple as I can.

Dave

(in reply to hifly2104)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/1/2007 11:08:47 PM

Posts: 31
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Elmira, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Well I spent the better part of new years day on the net and covering on the fuse and some tail feathers. I used Super Coverite. I used Coverite years ago but what I used today is supposed to be new and improved. Well I gotta admit I'd sooner use it than plastic or vinyl or whatever you want to call it.I bought the large 15' roll which is equivalent to atleast 4 regular rolls of covering so that makes it cheaper.Ok so I have to finish it(but I believe it does come coloured)but now I can paint what I want a whole lot easier than cutting it out
Honestly though this stuff goes on so smooth (easy) I need all the help I can get to make things look good!! So here are some pics of what I accomplished today . even one of the Radio Hatch (which I used to paint test on)which goes on the bottom at the back of the fuse so the radio RX and battery can help balance out this plane
Guess I should mention as it is real hard to see in the picture but the entire exterior or the fuse is covered

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< Message edited by hifly2104 -- 1/1/2007 11:12:18 PM >

(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/1/2007 11:41:46 PM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

Great Pics! Keeping me inspired for sure!
Covering looks really good. I'm going to tempt fate and order from Aircraft Spruce. They have a lightweight poly that should be alot like Koverall. Although Super Coverite does sound like an intrigueing shortcut,....hmmmm. I could cover it with white (or whatever base I wanted) and spray the trim colors on. Would save all that dopeing, and dopeing, and dopeing... (check'in prices$$)

I have a few pics in return of yours;

the first 2 are my clamp-up's on the spars. Im already considering another build and have decided that if I do, I'll use a solid spar and glued on ribs.

the 3rd & 4th picks are what my grandson dragged out and ploped on the bench next to me. Its a Midwest Aerosport .40 that I had a "spare" wing laying around for. It had been converted to a low wing in its previous existance. I'm keeping that orientation by simply inverting the vert fin position. Should fly as good as it did...

And the last pic is a tool I had aquired at a yardsale, and have found invaluable to the point I have worn it out. Its a thin razor saw. On the handle it reads "STROMBECKER USA". Its laying next to a 6" scale. Id sure like to find a source for these little gems...or something just like em!

Happy New Year !

Dave

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< Message edited by aerospot -- 1/1/2007 11:44:43 PM >

(in reply to hifly2104)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/4/2007 6:28:40 PM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

Here's an interesting thread on another forum. This guy blew up the Simpson Swick plans to 35%.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=315675&highlight=swick

(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/7/2007 10:32:12 PM

Posts: 7
Joined: 5/30/2003
From: winnipeg, MB, CANADA
Status: offline

My first scratch build plane. The Jim Simpson plans were nice to work with. I look forward to flying her when the snow melts. Engine: ZDZ 40

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RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/7/2007 11:10:25 PM

Posts: 31
Joined: 5/29/2004
From: Elmira, ON, CANADA
Status: offline

Looking good Dave . As i mentioned at the beginning some of my plane was built ,like one wing So when I built mine and cause it was on a jig I waited until it was all built to cut out the ribs to instal my wing spar . Was a little tricky but I had only shear webbed the one side in this area until now "the the first 2 are my clamp-up's on the spars. Im already considering another build and have decided that if I do, I'll use a solid spar and glued on ribs." which I guess would be the same as adding the glued on ribs later

Dave did you notice we have some more pictures from the person who started this thread. Someone else we can get some ideas from
Nice job Praire Flyer Looks terrific. i notice you didn't put in the side windows either.Love the Maple Leaf on the pilots shirt Yah Canada!!. Can you tell me/us how you fastened the over cockpit glass hatch

Dave back to your" STROMBECKER " never seen one before ,but name sounded familiarso I googled it. Not saying you will find that knife but it is worth a shot

(in reply to aerospot)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/8/2007 12:14:16 AM

Posts: 102
Joined: 10/12/2005
From: Lake City, PA, USA
Status: offline

Praire Flyer
Nice T-Craft !! And yer first plans build? Great work...
Did you do Frise Ailerons? I'd like to see them if you did...

Dave

(in reply to Praire Flyer)

RE: Swick Taylorcraft - 1/8/2007 1:46:35 AM

Posts: 7
Joined: 5/30/2003
From: winnipeg, MB, CANADA
Status: offline

Hello Dave

Yes it was my first scratch build. I enjoyed it so much I have started on my next scratch build project. I built the Frise ailerons as per plans as well as the tabs on the elevators. I will try and post some pics of ailerons as soon as I can.

(in reply to aerospot)