quote:

ORIGINAL: engineman351

I stole most of this off an e-airplane site:
The ''C'' rating tells you how much current it is safe to draw from your battery. It's expressed in terms of the capacity C.

So a 1200mAh 10C battery is good for 12A (10 x 1200mA/1000) and the same size 12C battery would be good for 14.4A (12 x 1200mA/1000). An example: One battery is 900mAh and 10C so it is good for a 9A draw. A second battery is a bit smaller at 850mAh but higher rated at 12C so it's good for a 10.2A draw. You can plug in the numbers for whatever pack you are using to see how many amps you can potentially draw.

The C rating doesn't mean your motor will go faster or run for longer. It just means that if you ever want to use more current, by using the battery with a different motor or a bigger prop, the 12C battery will allow more than the 10C version.

Furthermore most RC’ers treat the ‘C’ rating as a ‘burst’ or max amp draw situation…but to know how close you are actually getting to the ‘burst’ level, you need some form of a ‘Watt Meter’ to really understand what is happening in your set-up. My rule of thumb is: The higher the ‘C’ rating the less chance there is of exceeding the battery’s capacity to give up current and not hurt your battery.
Anyway...my 2 cents (again!!) Roger

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

quote:

ORIGINAL: engineman351

I stole most of this off an e-airplane site:
The ''C'' rating tells you how much current it is safe to draw from your battery. It's expressed in terms of the capacity C.

So a 1200mAh 10C battery is good for 12A (10 x 1200mA/1000) and the same size 12C battery would be good for 14.4A (12 x 1200mA/1000). An example: One battery is 900mAh and 10C so it is good for a 9A draw. A second battery is a bit smaller at 850mAh but higher rated at 12C so it's good for a 10.2A draw. You can plug in the numbers for whatever pack you are using to see how many amps you can potentially draw.

The C rating doesn't mean your motor will go faster or run for longer. It just means that if you ever want to use more current, by using the battery with a different motor or a bigger prop, the 12C battery will allow more than the 10C version.

Furthermore most RC’ers treat the ‘C’ rating as a ‘burst’ or max amp draw situation…but to know how close you are actually getting to the ‘burst’ level, you need some form of a ‘Watt Meter’ to really understand what is happening in your set-up. My rule of thumb is: The higher the ‘C’ rating the less chance there is of exceeding the battery’s capacity to give up current and not hurt your battery.
Anyway...my 2 cents (again!!) Roger

So {50 x 2200/1000} 11.0A draw or am I off. I told my LHS what I was going to use them for. As I didn't see were the brown wire on the starter went. I will put the stuff together and let you do the final wiring. I'm not totally sure about my wiring skills. I will get it close. I will make the box large enough for all lips sizes.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Blackout

Speaking of fast electrics... Here is a picture from Jim's Dock. To see it, you may need to be logged in to Jim's....



I guess we need a fire extinguisher handy with FE boats....

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

quote:

ORIGINAL: engineman351

I stole most of this off an e-airplane site:
The ''C'' rating tells you how much current it is safe to draw from your battery. It's expressed in terms of the capacity C.

So a 1200mAh 10C battery is good for 12A (10 x 1200mA/1000) and the same size 12C battery would be good for 14.4A (12 x 1200mA/1000). An example: One battery is 900mAh and 10C so it is good for a 9A draw. A second battery is a bit smaller at 850mAh but higher rated at 12C so it's good for a 10.2A draw. You can plug in the numbers for whatever pack you are using to see how many amps you can potentially draw.

The C rating doesn't mean your motor will go faster or run for longer. It just means that if you ever want to use more current, by using the battery with a different motor or a bigger prop, the 12C battery will allow more than the 10C version.

Furthermore most RC’ers treat the ‘C’ rating as a ‘burst’ or max amp draw situation…but to know how close you are actually getting to the ‘burst’ level, you need some form of a ‘Watt Meter’ to really understand what is happening in your set-up. My rule of thumb is: The higher the ‘C’ rating the less chance there is of exceeding the battery’s capacity to give up current and not hurt your battery.
Anyway...my 2 cents (again!!) Roger

So {50 x 2200/1000} 11.0A draw or am I off. I told my LHS what I was going to use them for. As I didn't see were the brown wire on the starter went. I will put the stuff together and let you do the final wiring. I'm not totally sure about my wiring skills. I will get it close. I will make the box large enough for all lips sizes.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Joe Petro

Turbine like styling...

Joe

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Rigger Sunday will be a good one.12:00 12:30 is fine for me. My .12 carb has the mods that Glenn mentions Low speed needle is flush with the carbs inside wall. And the brass carb pipe modified. Looking at a few of my older carbs the brass fuel pipe cuts are all facing down. My .12 NR isn't starting. Looks like no compression. The .18 Go has no waterlines as that water jacket is very heavy and big. I added the .12 NR air fin-ed head. Will it over heat !!!!! Bob .18 needs water. we found that one out. I'll need to do some tub cutting to get the 6 oz tank inside.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Blackout

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Rigger Sunday will be a good one.12:00 12:30 is fine for me. My .12 carb has the mods that Glenn mentions Low speed needle is flush with the carbs inside wall. And the brass carb pipe modified. Looking at a few of my older carbs the brass fuel pipe cuts are all facing down. My .12 NR isn't starting. Looks like no compression. The .18 Go has no waterlines as that water jacket is very heavy and big. I added the .12 NR air fin-ed head. Will it over heat !!!!! Bob .18 needs water. we found that one out. I'll need to do some tub cutting to get the 6 oz tank inside.

Sunday at 12:30 sounds good.

Reading about carb mods, it sounds like cutting the spray bar at 90 degrees gives better fuel atomization.

Yes, Bob's .18 needs full water. Kinda funny how some need water, some don't.... My air cooled head should work o.k. I didn't want to run water lines; .12 riggers are so small.

I hope to bench run the .12 motor in Saturday night using a heat gun to warm the head before starting. There is allot of pinch, which seems to be the norm for these small engines.

Do you have the flex 6oz. slant tank? Mine fit in fine, just need to squeeze the tank. Friction should keep this tank in, but it does stick up 1/4''. No big deal since I'm not running a cowl. I like to go in the water early, so 6oz was needed.

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

We will have a .45 rigger for testing. I ordered a headbutton on the .45 CMB ,The glowplug thread is NOT right. I can swap out my spare for parts. Do they sell another kind of plug bigger thread???? It's a turbo head, from Stu I'll call him tomorrow. Got me scratching my head on this one. I went to tighten the coupler and added my piston-stop. No good. way off.

understand what you say
Modified  turbo head ?
I have an old photograph taken in the 1990s Australia to the World Championships.....

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quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

We will have a .45 rigger for testing. I ordered a headbutton on the .45 CMB ,The glowplug thread is NOT right. I can swap out my spare for parts. Do they sell another kind of plug bigger thread???? It's a turbo head, from Stu I'll call him tomorrow. Got me scratching my head on this one. I went to tighten the coupler and added my piston-stop. No good. way off.

quote:

ORIGINAL: c.k.y.

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

We will have a .45 rigger for testing. I ordered a headbutton on the .45 CMB ,The glowplug thread is NOT right. I can swap out my spare for parts. Do they sell another kind of plug bigger thread???? It's a turbo head, from Stu I'll call him tomorrow. Got me scratching my head on this one. I went to tighten the coupler and added my piston-stop. No good. way off.

Hi advanced builder
I hope to use the translation function to understand what you say
Modified  turbo head ?
I have an old photograph taken in the 1990s Australia to the World Championships.....

quote:

ORIGINAL: c.k.y.

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

We will have a .45 rigger for testing. I ordered a headbutton on the .45 CMB ,The glowplug thread is NOT right. I can swap out my spare for parts. Do they sell another kind of plug bigger thread???? It's a turbo head, from Stu I'll call him tomorrow. Got me scratching my head on this one. I went to tighten the coupler and added my piston-stop. No good. way off.

Hi advanced builder
I hope to use the translation function to understand what you say
Modified  turbo head ?
I have an old photograph taken in the 1990s Australia to the World Championships.....

quote:

ORIGINAL: engineman351

Simple and effective. Everything doesn't have to be anodized and cost $65 to work. Roger

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Your water tight linkage is a good price as well.Craig I kinda did the same on the .45 linkage. A piece of water line to seal .I'm adding the pipe mount and still need to add the water line. ALSO using that 3 rd channel. I better read up. Bill I have the same 3rd channel needle you have. Which line goes to the carb top or bottom? I think top but need to double CK

quote:

ORIGINAL: advanced builder

c.k.y. , Stu Barr is the CMB dealer over here. I ordered a .45 CMB headbutton and the darn thing has the wrong glow plug treads It was to be a turbo head ,looks like any normal button. Who's that with you ?
I've never been to a world championship event. Must be a big race ,guys coming from all over the world .
Thanks for reply
Neil

translation errors
In the photo on the left is my right is my British friends.
The boat using older CMB-90/15c.c.( engine mounts the United Kingdom making, material is aluminum alloy)
I like to make different types of boat
I also have a JAE-21 but did not have time to finish it
In 1976 and produces (CANARD HYDRO) some photos
 CKY

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