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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 12:34 AM   
earlwb


 

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Although I like the Tygon tubing, it does tend to get more soft over time from the fuel. Thus it can start to loosen up on the fittings after a while, and that can cause a air leak or fuel leak to occur. So I took to using little Zip Ties or lengths of wire or even those wire clamps to ensure the lines stay tight on the fittings. I tend to use the Zip ties for the more permanent clamping tasks and the wire clamps where I might be removing the tubing from time to time. I also made up some tubing that is sealed on one end, that I use to close off the vent and filler lines with. When I am not flying the plane I close off the vent too.  That Honda tubing is pretty good stuff too.




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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 1:16 AM   
tevans55


 

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I agree with Michel. I have been using the Stihl brand tubing that is sold in 3 foot lengths. It comes in a Stihl bag and is around $5. It is just the right flexibility and does not change over time. You can purchase it wherever Stihl brand products are sold.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 5:31 AM   
Ernie Misner



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Just for kicks when you get a chance ask the Honda dealer what it says on their roll of replacement tubing.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 6:00 AM   
rcguy59



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Knowing Honda, all it will have on it is an obscene price. Honda charges like a wounded buffalo for all of their parts.


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 2:40 PM   
mesaflyer


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rcguy59

Knowing Honda, all it will have on it is an obscene price. Honda charges like a wounded buffalo for all of their parts.


LOL....That just made my morning!

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 4:25 PM   
bgw45


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: RiverLarry

Armody      Go to  MC Master Carr !!!!!

thay have  Vinton   /   Tygon    @ .80 ft     1/8   brass  T   and you can get differnt wall thick  !!!!    

 purty much  any type or sise  of  tubing you would ever need !!!

And    bolt cutters     (   For the lock !!!!  )              R/L


Rl, could you recommend the wall thickness and part number for the viton you use inside the tank? Thanks


quote:

ORIGINAL: Michel

Hi

I work , in small engines , ( I,m no pro ) , and fix many . The best , which I use , inside the tank , is the fuel line from , '' HONDA '' weed eaters ( weed /trimmers ) , the 4 cycle one,s . I have some that are still beening used , thats '' 6 years ago '' . They are extremly flexble , and keep the flexability for years . Some of the other small egines are also good , Stihl , Husvarna , Echo , and so on . ( I am speaking about the inside gasline )

I tryed viton and found it to be too stiff , but , does last a long time . If you,ll use the Honda one,s ,................... you,ll never look back .

Michel


Michel, what is the Honda part number for the tubing you have had success with? Thanks

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/26/2012 7:43 PM   
Ernie Misner



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Viton tank tubing from McMaster Carr is 5119K41 soft black. Their regular authentic Tygon is F4040A. Also check their Tygothane Polyurethane Tubing that folks are using inside of the tank. I'm going to try rcguy59's suggestion of the genuine Tygon and it is cheap.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 12:12 AM   
Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway



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FYI guys. That black neoprene tubing that comes with the Hayes fuel tank has done me in on two planes. I empty the tank at the end of the day and twice, right at 10 months got lots of black specs in fuel screen after deadsticks, some better than others.

The best part of the fiji bottle is you can see what is going on inside all the time. I run my two 20cc profiles with DLE20 and have done, by mistake a 24 minute flight and still had a tiny bit of fuel left.. .Not running WOT, 330ml Fiji tank with viton fuel line and ceramic filter clunk.

Regarding 11 oz being too much fuel. The tank is about the same weight as an 8 oz tank with a stopper. So if weight is critical then fill it up 3/4 of the way. The ceramic filter clunk will drain every drop should the need arise...

Working good for me and lots of buddies.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 12:15 AM   
Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway



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By the way, to clarify, the black specs in the carb screen was from the deteriorating clunk line(came with the hayes when I bought it).

It fell apart very easily when I got it out of the tank. One had actually collapsed and not allowed me to drain it from the fuel line.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 12:18 AM   
tailskid



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Anyone try this 'muffler - sound - reducer?

https://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/TBMDLE20SILENCER.html

Found mine that I ordered 2-3 months ago and will put it on now that I've found it

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 12:20 AM   
Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway



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See if you can see the ignition hump in this vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UGRZZ5YNYQ

No hump in this vid. Both engines have identical servo geometry on the engine. Both engines with the same Xoar 17x6 shared, both with same muffler.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgFDIiMOwlI

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 1:55 AM   
RiverLarry


 

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+ 1   E M        R/L

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 1:59 AM   
microdon2


 

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Wrongway - so what makes the difference in the second video that there's no hump? (that smooth transition does sound nice). Also what's the RPM increase from your Wrongway muffler over the stock? Last, what difference did the Bowman ring produce? ( I have one for both my DLE 20 and 30, but have not installed them yet). Thanks.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 2:47 AM   
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I would run the DLE ring for a while to get the high points knocked down on the cylinder wall.


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 2:54 AM   
RiverLarry


 

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GOOD point   W8YE      at least  a gal or 2   

do you think  a person should  hone the jugd  when that is done ????    not much  just a little   cant hurt        ????   R/L

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 5:35 AM   
Ernie Misner



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I got some genuine Tygon tubing from Valley View RC. It says Tygon right on it and it came off of a roll from Dubro. It seems way too stiff to use on the clunk line inside of the tank.... so I'm baffled how it is working so good for you Mike. (rcguy59) Did it soften up for you after you put gas in the tank?

Thanks, Ernie

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 6:05 AM   
rcguy59



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It does seem to get softer after exposure to fuel. The stuff you got from VVRC was probably medium. Try the small size for clunk lines in small tanks. I have used the small size to feed a DLE55 and it worked fine. In larger tanks,(24oz.) the medium works OK for clunk lines. In my 101oz. turbine tank, a Datsun radiator hose would probably work as a clunk line. If all else fails, get a heavier clunk. That will allow you to use stiffer tubing. Most guys use too-large a tube size, though. The fuel-flow of these gassers is pretty low, especially a 20cc, so you don't need large, stiff line.


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 6:07 AM   
armody



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Ernie,

This is exactly what I was told by my LHS guy who is very experienced and happens to be a President of the club, that tygon is stiff and after a while it would end up getting brittle, brittle means it may break as well ,. but experiences are telling otherwise?

Go for Du-bro tygon still?

Mody

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 11:54 AM   
Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway



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quote:

ORIGINAL: microdon2

Wrongway - so what makes the difference in the second video that there's no hump? (that smooth transition does sound nice). Also what's the RPM increase from your Wrongway muffler over the stock? Last, what difference did the Bowman ring produce? ( I have one for both my DLE 20 and 30, but have not installed them yet). Thanks.


The hump to me was I was reducing the throttle abut one click at a time and getting about 100 rpm difference. When coming down in rpm at around 3200(on factory ign.) it suddenly dropped to low 2k. The second video got about a hundred rpm for each time I moved the stick until about 2300. For my flying I like to throttle through the low rpm for slow maneuvers and landing. I did fly it for a few gallons on stock ignition, once I figured it out I avoided the dead sticks.. I like it better on a standard ignition though.

I had a guy at the field who had a DLE20 on a scale plane.. As he came in for landing he was trading altitude and even though his stick was in idle position it would not idle down and he would fly right by. The plane coming off of energy was apparently keeping the prop spooled up enough to delay the ignition to getting to the part where it would lower the idle. (see hump in first vid) I asked him to go on downwind and pull the nose up for slow flight and get the airplane slow and level, then when he turned base to final and pulled the throttle back, flying slow all the while... he got it to idle better. On other days he would trim down the idle and just before landing when the ignition curve kicked in, it would drop rpm but now his trim was set for maybe 1200rpm and then it would just quit... too low rpm. Again, you can make the stock ignition work if you know how to get around it..

To convert I used the factory hall sensor, I cut one of the end pieces loose so I could get the plastic to move farther, on the other side I carefully carved out the plastic (dont go so far as to hit your wiring)so the other bolt would go further toward the center of the hall sensor mount. The first engine I did with a timing wheel, the second I made look the same as the first. Both run great.

Regarding the bowman ring. The first engine I broke in with a gallon of 32=1 ashless oil, then went on to synthetic and it seemed to take 3 gallons to really finish breaking in. I got 60+ flights on my first gallon. The engine now runs great and is highly reliable. The second engine I started with the bowman ring and Penzoil Aircooled. It was running nicely after about 6 flights. After a dozen the rpm was similar to the first engine, it draws fuel up for the first start of the day better/sooner. Mr. Bowman told me in an email that a ring can be changed about anytime, even after a few gallons have gone through. On another size engine I changed the ring after 5 gallons but I was cleaning up the ring land (area where the ring goes in the piston) from carbon buildup. Took a few extra minutes.

My opinion is that both engines wound up at similar levels at a point in comparing top end power. Occasionally there are rings that come with batches of engines from overseas that are slightly to obviously sub standard so they can be the one where a person may see greater difference.

On the muffler that I sell for profile. The chamber is much larger than the factory one, I have had guys put the muffler on a JC30 with some dremel work on the bolt holes and exhaust port. The reason is that they were flying it in a profile. Performance was not changed. The profile or regular inverted muffler weighs a half ounce more then the muffler that comes with the DLE20. I carry them for profile or inverted mount. I did not do a subjective enough test to compare factory muffler to mine. Some of my customers report back a hundred rpm increase. I do know that because of the different exhaust flow in the bigger chamber that re tuning the low end and high end is necessary and obvious.

Happy Flying guys, Happy New Year too!

Richard

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/27/2012 12:10 PM  1 votes
Richard D Bahmann aka/Wrongway



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Here is a cut and past email from Frank Bowman on the reed block modification.

I found that on the rear intake's there is a Black plastic reed block between engine & carb. It has a flange on it for mounting to flat carb & engine surface and reed part is triangular shaped. The 2 plastic block reed surfaces are not flat and reeds in some cases don't lay perfectly flat against block. There are 2 screws that go thru a steel plate that holds reed to surface. Remove screws and reeds from block, then file or hone metal plates flat as 1 side will have burrs from having been punched out. Next tape down 320 grit sandpaper to edge of really flat surface, table top, edge of thick piece of glass, etc. Because of the lip on plastic block, let that part hang over edge and pull plastic block across paper to flatten. Repeat on other surface until shinny gone and surface is flat. It won't take much so no need to get carried away. Next deburr the 4 screw holes as screws tend to pull plastic up in screw holes. Remount screws thru plate & reed. Make sure reed is totally flat, if not remove screws again and turn reed over and re install screws. Screws will strip easily so if you have lock tite you can put a tiny bit on screws to secure & tighten gently. What this affects is idle, engine will be hard starting as if 1 or both reeds are open ever so slightly, fuel won't be drawn up to carb and stay there. If reeds are open it never will pull a vacuum to draw fuel and hold fuel at carb. Thanks Frank

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/29/2012 1:01 AM   
tailskid



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quote:

ORIGINAL: microdon2

I also got two of the Pegasys EI's from Hobby King. Haven't installed them yet, but glad to hear they're working out.

bgw45 - so on your DLE 20 you now have a smoother transition from low to mid-range, and is your low idle easier to find and more stable? (nothing like leading the witness...)


Have you tried the new modules yet?

Jerry

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/29/2012 4:25 AM   
Ernie Misner



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I got clarification from Jim and Jodi about exactly why you have to retard the sensor a bunch when converting the 20cc DLE from it's stock ignition to the RCEXEL ignition. It's simply that the DLE's come with the timing set at 35 degrees BTDC and when changing to the RCEXEL igniton that's a great time to re set it to 28 degrees or so.l (If you hadn't already done that with the stock ignition)

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/29/2012 1:12 PM  1 votes
ahicks


 

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Bottom line, no need to mess with it when switching to a different module - unless you're concerned about the 28 vs. 35 degree timing - which is a totally different issue. Has nothing to do with the ign. module swap.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/29/2012 9:04 PM   
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Thanks, Ernie! I think I'll get some headed my way. It's winter tank re-build time.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 12/30/2012 6:51 AM   
Ernie Misner



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You are welcome. Be sure and check out the Tygothane Poly.. tubing as well as the Viton. The Tygothane one is very reasonable and I think is flexible for clunk lines. I have an order coming. They also have high temp silicone tubing for couplings in tuned pipes or mousse can setups. Much cheaper than Macs's Products. They have aluminum tubeing, same size as Mac's headers as well, up to 3/4" anyway.

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