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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 6:35 PM   
sandyjain


 

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Status: offline 		why? they have the same characteristics only the operating/ reverse voltages are different. for our low voltage use even 1N4001 is enough. Please correct me if I am wrong.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 6:50 PM   
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Status: offline 		You will need to ask Rcexl that one, but their instructions are clear which one they recommend.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 7:48 PM   
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Status: offline 		Here is a related question and I don't mean to Pi$$ anyone off here but I am going to run a 5cell NiCd pack and we all know that at full charge they go over the 6V range so do I also need to protect the circuit with a regulator or a diode to prevent over voltage until it actually comes down to normal operating voltage?



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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 7:56 PM   
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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 8:02 PM   
jedijody



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Status: offline 		Come on people, READ. I just posted this a couple of hours ago. This is not difficult to understand.

The DLE factory manual doesn't state any battery or voltage, the Hobbico manual says a 4.8 or 6.0 volt battery, the Rcexl instructions say 4.8-6.0 volts, it even states to use a diode or regulator if using 2 cell LiFe or A123 packs to drop voltage to below 6 volts. The very latest from Rcexl says that 7.0 volts is the maximum their ignition can handle but a single cylinder ignition is then drawing a full 1 amp from the battery when it can easily do its job on less than 1/2 that current. That means the excess is dissipated within the ignition as heat, not good for electronic devices.

That said, I work on these engines everyday, the failure rate for the ignitions run on straight 2 cell Life batteries is more than 5 times that of those run at below 6.000 volts. Those that survive the warranty period still die a very premature death and cost about $80 to replace. Personally I don't care if you want to use a car battery for your ignition and I have no problem replacing them under warranty if they fail, they give me new ones free, no questions asked. BUT, Rcexl, Hobbico, DLE, and certainly not myself will replace your airframe or replace your flying time or relieve any of the hassle having a bad ignition day will cause.

I've recommended countless times what's the safest, most reliable, provides the longest battery life, and the longest duty cycle for your ignition. Exceeding 6.000 volts only has draw backs, zero advantages, no performance advantages whatsoever.

Again, the diode is a 1N4007, 3 cents each, http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=2660007



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Click to see the file in new window.Attachment.pdf Click to see the file in new window.Attachment.pdf


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 8:13 PM   
a1pcfixer



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A basic 4-cell NiMh gets it done!

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 9:57 PM   
ahicks


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: a1pcfixer

Reading is fundamental,
comprehension is an acquired skill.

A basic 4-cell NiMh gets it done!


And a 5 cell needs a diode to get it done....

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 3/31/2011 11:15 PM   
9r9r


 

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Status: offline 		so a 12v car battery would work?? 

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 12:49 AM   
erieqc


 

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Status: offline 		Why not use 2 of them and hook them together and use a bunch of diodes to bring it down.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 12:57 AM   
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quote:

Come on people, READ. I just posted this a couple of hours ago. This is not difficult to understand.


LOL, looks like a ruff day at the office Jody

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 1:48 AM   
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Status: offline 		Where do you install the diode? I can't find any diagrams/pics showing how to install

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 1:58 AM   
jedijody



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Status: offline 		Lol, not really. I do truly love to help people but I refuse to tell them what do to. I freely give out the information one needs to make an informed decision on their own. If one wants to ask, all that's required is to read the answer, then use their own thought and logic process to make their own decision based on the information before them.

I don't mind if one doesn't want to use the search function but if one sees that discussion on a page is on topic of something they want to know about, for crying out loud, take 5 minutes and read back a page or two, many times their question has been answered before they ask it, there is very little anyone could ask about the DLE20 that has not been discussed in this thread.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 2:12 AM   
jedijody



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jcb9901

Where do you install the diode? I can't find any diagrams/pics showing how to install


In the positive lead between the ignition switch (manual or remote) and the ignition module. Use one diode if using 2 cell LiFe (A123) batteries, use two if using 2 cell Li-ion or LiPoly batteries.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 8:04 AM   
TimBle


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: jedijody


quote:

ORIGINAL: TimBle

JediJody,

The DLE website says that the CDI can b run off a 6.6V LiFe Battery pack with a regulator, but the manual only refers to 6.0V operating voltage.
 I assume the website is upto date but will my DLE 4# CDI unit handle the 6.6V LiFe battery pack?


Please pardon the copy and paste but I'm tired of typing it all out, this question is asked almost every other page. With a little effort searching for answers one can almost always learn something else, maybe even the next thing they're going ask.

The DLE factory manual doesn't state any battery or voltage, the Hobbico manual says a 4.8 or 6.0 volt battery, the Rcexl instructions say 4.8-6.0 volts, it even states to use a diode or regulator if using 2 cell LiFe or A123 packs to drop voltage to below 6 volts. The very latest from Rcexl says that 7.0 volts is the maximum their ignition can handle but a single cylinder ignition is then drawing a full 1 amp from the battery when it can easily do its job on less than 1/2 that current. That means the excess is dissipated within the ignition as heat, not good for electronic devices.

That said, I work on these engines everyday, the failure rate for the ignitions run on straight 2 cell Life batteries is more than 5 times that of those run at below 6.000 volts. Those that survive the warranty period still die a very premature death and cost about $80 to replace. Personally I don't care if you want to use a car battery for your ignition and I have no problem replacing them under warranty if they fail, they give me new ones free, no questions asked. BUT, Rcexl, Hobbico, DLE, and certainly not myself will replace your airframe or replace your flying time or relieve any of the hassle having a bad ignition day will cause.

I've recommended countless times what's the safest, most reliable, provides the longest battery life, and the longest duty cycle for your ignition. Exceeding 6.000 volts only has draw backs, zero advantages, no performance advantages whatsoever.

Again, the diode is a 1N4007, 3 cents each, http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=2660007



Thanks for clearing that up but the sarcasm is really not necessary. There is a lot of information about this engine in this thread but there is also a lot of information on the www.dleengines.com website. Some of it conflicts and therefore how is the first time to know whom to believe...? Try to view the world from an end user perspective. Not everyone wants to read through 135 pages. I am often on your side of the fence too; I build custom high power bicycle lights. I get repetitive queries everyday but I have to field them or no one buys my lights. Simple, suck it up or don't participate. You're a valuable resource but not indispensible.

Thanks for answering the questions anyway. I'll get a UBEC to run the ignition from my LiFe Rx pack. and I'll run another smaller LiFe for some Rx safety.

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 8:44 AM   
crashland 73



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Status: offline 		Ive just done some reasearch, the dle20 weighs 6.5 oz more than the magnum
91 4s complete with ignition & all. SO...i have a scratch built ugly stick with a magnum 91 4s on it. Is there any reason that i cant convert it to the 20? I know there is a very slight weight difference but i really think that little amount may not matter. What do you all think?

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 9:52 AM   
w8ye



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Status: offline 		Sounds good.

The DLE 20 has already been run on a couple different 60 size stick airplanes.

At least one had a shortened nose with servos to the rear

They had tremendous performance


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 10:31 AM   
airborne2.4


 

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quote:

......there is very little anyone could ask about the DLE20 that has not been discussed in this thread.


I agree

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 11:49 AM   
a1pcfixer



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quote:

ORIGINAL: TimBle

...................There is a lot of information about this engine in this thread but there is also a lot of information on the http://www.dleengines.com ........................................Not everyone wants to read through 135 pages..........................



First off, THAT web site is NOT the official DLEngines web site. It's the Hobbico/Tower Hobbies web site on DLE engines.
Such has been repeated here numerous times!

As to the xxx number of pages. Each msg thread page here on RCU has 6 -SIX links on it to their SEARCH function!
A person's inability to even attempt using such search functions makes me wonder whether or not they should even be around these powered models. If you searched and found your answer, go to the head of the class. If you searched but still have questions, ask away.
But when the answer was posted TWICE within just a few messages, something is definitely wrong.

The first message in this thread has my review of the more important aspects of this DLE20cc gas engine thread with many links in it.
Still many skip over it, and miss the info they need.

It's a matter of wanting to be spoon fed the answers repeatedly -vs- looking them up yourselves.
Look them up, then we can discuss others aspects of a subject.


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 12:09 PM   
airborne2.4


 

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< Message edited by airborne2.4 -- 4/1/2011 12:40 PM >

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 1:04 PM   
afjetmech


 

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 1:34 PM   
ahicks


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: crashland 73

Ive just done some reasearch, the dle20 weighs 6.5 oz more than the magnum
91 4s complete with ignition & all. SO...i have a scratch built ugly stick with a magnum 91 4s on it. Is there any reason that i cant convert it to the 20? I know there is a very slight weight difference but i really think that little amount may not matter. What do you all think?


Welcome aboard! I think go for it! A lot of us have done that same research comparing this new gas stuff to the nitro engines. This DLE 20 gets us competitive on the 90 - 120 powered planes pretty easily as you've seen. Even some 60 size planes are becoming popular projects? When considering a conversion, experience would have you looking at wing loading, just don't forget to consider prop clearance!

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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 1:42 PM   
ghoffman


 

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Status: offline 		I don't know how the original Ugly Stick compares to the H9 Ultra Stick in terms of weight and balance but I have the original length nose with the servos in the rear.  With the H9 aluminum mounts and the DLE-20 it balances perfectly with the battery where the servos were supposed to go.   


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 2:26 PM   
Clay Walters


 

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Status: offline 		That Hangar 9 mount is nice in that it adds weight when you need it on a tail heavy model (bashed Pulse XT 125) and permits just a little cg adjustment since you don't need to drill & tap the engine mount bolts. Unfortunately I cracked mine while redrilling a mount hole so I used the ARF's included nylon mount.

I haven't flown this yet but the CG is now spot on thanks to Higley's heavy hub and prop lock (8 X 1 mm). I did start her up for the first run a couple of days ago and she started and kept running while choked with the first hit of my electric starter. Finally died so I opened the choke and she fired with barely a lick and ran very smooth for a couple of minutes. When I increased to approx 3/4 throttle I was unable to throttle down and discovered my throttle arm had vibrated loose so I killed with the opto-kill switch for my very first time. Was surprised by how long it continued to run after power was cut.

Discovered the little screw that runs in the center of the throttle arm was missing and took awhile to find one that fit the threads. It was a loose one from my junk hardwared can (an old flour cannister) so I don't know the thread it is but it fit. Used thread locker and went on to other projects but hope to fire it up again this weekend if schedule permits.

I was watching for a two-stage type throttle response that I've read about here...idle up to a jump to full throttle but its seemed to be pretty doggone smooth and in steady relation to the stick movement. Obviously with only 5-6 minutes run time I don't know how it will actually turn out but my initial impression was that she ran as smooth as my Magnum 91 4-stroke. Mucho power too.

This is my first gasser and I settled on using a Ubec to regulate voltage for both my ignition and my receiver. Seemed complicated to me initially but was acutally fairly straightforward. Main problem is I found the Pulse 125 interior quite cramped for all this and somewhat inflexible in where you can arrange electronics, servos and tank once I modified the pushrod routing. In hindsight this could have been done differently and possibly made arrangement and balancing simpler but I did learn that a gasser with cdi ignition has requirements beyond a standard glow that must be considered.

Neat little engine,

Clay


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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 3:32 PM   
crashland 73



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Status: offline 		the h9 ultra stick is much lighter an no dihedral. The ugly stick is a bit heavier & has a bit of dihedral. Ive got both. Ill try to post a pic of my ugly stick.
[image][/image]

CRAP! this stupid ipod!

quote:

ORIGINAL: ghoffman

I don't know how the original Ugly Stick compares to the H9 Ultra Stick in terms of weight and balance but I have the original length nose with the servos in the rear.  With the H9 aluminum mounts and the DLE-20 it balances perfectly with the battery where the servos were supposed to go.   



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RE: NEW DLE 20cc Gasser! (Data & Links 1st Post) - 4/1/2011 8:54 PM   
jcb9901



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jedijody


quote:

ORIGINAL: jcb9901

Where do you install the diode? I can't find any diagrams/pics showing how to install


In the positive lead between the ignition switch (manual or remote) and the ignition module. Use one diode if using 2 cell LiFe (A123) batteries, use two if using 2 cell Li-ion or LiPoly batteries.

Thanks For the reply, I looked back a few pages with no luck. Did finally find one back on page 82

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