secretsg

This is a complete build thread of the TRF801X buggy from beginning to finish including fundamental setups. Hope you all enjoy it!

First up is a overview of the products we will be using. I decided to go with the RB Shark9 for engine. Many of the hop ups were out of stock at the time and but I did manage to snag a lightweight chassis.

The box itself is nothing special. Very similar to all the current 1/8th buggy presentation. It's no Team Magic M1B packaging, but this does keep the cost down. Inside you get a decal sheet, 2 big bags containing most of the plastic pieces, Bags A-G containing all metal parts and hardware. Each bag represents a section of the build so you don't have to dig for parts.

The body covers the side guards and fuel tank. Underneath the entire package is a cardboard cover containing the chassis. I've attached a comparison with the lightweight chassis. Last but not least is the manual.


I apologize for the dirty workmat but I am too busy to clean it atm. CAT WHISKERS NOT INCLUDED.

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First part of the manual involves the front end plus Front and Rear differentials. This is contained in bag A.

We begin by putting the bearing on the bottom of the diff casing. Manual does not specify any lubrication, however since this is a plastic to metal contact, I prefer to use ceramic grease. Tamiya HG Cera grease is shown in the picture.

Note Tamiya supplied metal shielded bearings thru out. I prefer rubber shielded bearings for offroad applications where the bearing is facing the outside.

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Next we put one of the outdrives into the diff cup. This is also lightly coated with ceramic grease.

I like to put green slime/VG damper grease on the o-ring as insurance again leaking. This also reduces friction.

You will find it hard to slide the o-ring into groove once the outdrive is in the cup. I used a small hex driver to gently nudge it into position.

Lastly slide the retaining pin into the diff thru the bottom opening. A small hex driver will also help here.

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Put the top gear over the retaining pin in the drive cup.

Assemble the bevel gears at this time by putting the pins together by the notch. Tamiya diff gears appear to be hard coated or at least treated. Do not forget the 4 shims at the end of the bevel gears or you will have more diff problems than you can imagine.

Drop the assembled bevel gear into diff cup and make sure the shims are in position.

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Repeat the outdrive assembly process with the ring gear. I prefer to use moly grease for metal to metal contact.

The o-ring and diff retaining pin are a lot easier to put in on this side. Slide the top gear over the retaining pin and set aside.

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We need to seal the diff cup by putting in the grub screw. I like to use some Tamiya blue threadlock but it should be sealed with just the screw on plastic.

Whatever you do don't use non plastic safe threadlock.

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Fill up the cup with silicone fluid. You will need to leave room for the ring gear portion to drop in. The manual indicates 2/3 but I used 80% full with no spills.

The kit oil s only 5k and I'd suggest getting a range of 3 - 15K oils for this car. You will want to use one brand of oil to keep consistency.

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The gasket and screws are the last part of the assembly. You can use the manual diagrams to grab parts if you are not sure. Many of the pictures are 1:1.

I use greenslime/VG damper grease on the rim of the cup, and on the ring gear before attaching the gasket.

Once the gasket is attached drop the ring gear section onto the cup. Attach the screws gently and tighten in cross pattern to avoid tweaking.

Do the same for the rear differential and write down the weight of the oil on the diff cup. This way you won't forget which differential should be used.

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Diff casing is the next step. Lube the pinion gear with moly grease and put the bearings on. Notice here I used the metal shield bearing on the inside where it doesn't face the open.

You will need to trim the casing pieces with side cutter. I prefer to use a combination of side cutter/large nail clipper and flat exacto knife. The clipper is great for rounded surfaces and have a file attached. Exacto is great for most surfaces but you must use even force or risk getting sliced.

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Grease the ring gear and put it into the casing. Snap the two halves together and screw in.

Lastly slide in the diff retainer. This is a cast piece and failures have been reported. Keep a couple on hand. I've used a tiny amount of AW grease here to help the situation since the connection is tight and dirt can not get in. Make sure you wipe off any excess if you decide to follow suit.

Eman77

Sweet build thread! Thanks for the details and pics so far.

Makes me want to get an 801xt and do an electric conversion. Oh yeah, and somehow get $$ to do that. [&:]

secretsg

The rear end is assembled first. We begin by trimming out appropriate L / D and A parts. You need to chose the appropriate suspension block for the rear toe angle. I used the 3 degree plate here.

Use a pin to put the red threadlock inside diff retainer. This stuff will eat plastic and you will want to make sure there is no excess outside of the screw hole.

Screw all the plastic parts together with the diff assembly first. Notice which holes the retainer attaches to. This is different for Front and rear on a lot of vehicles. If you put it in the wrong hole the driveshaft will rub.

Also notice the diff orientation. Front and back needs to be different. Fortunately for us the diff parts are molded in. I would recommend stronger steel screws here. (Tony's Screws/RTL etc) The stock 25mm screws are very flimsy.

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Attach the kickup plate next, then attach the center universal shaft. I like to put some triflow lube in the joint area. It's teflon based, and stays on dry, so it won't attract dirt like a wet lube. You can get this at bike stores. Graphite based products can be used to achieve the same effect. The shaft attaches to the ring gear with the grub screw. Screw should face the flat portion, and secured with red threadlock.

Assemble the shock standoff by putting the screws thru the shock tower first. Apply some red threadlock at base of the screw and attach the nuts. Tamiya is coming out with a revised stronger standoff.

The wing mount is next, use the same pin trick as the diff retainers for applying the threadlock.

Attach the shock tower first, then slide the wing mount thru and screw in tight.

Eman77

Interesting build so far. A bit surprised no one has commented on it yet, other than myself.

Build all done at this point?

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We attach the arms to rear section next. Notice the weight difference between the stock TB vs lunsford Ti. Put a little grease on the threaded section to make the assembly easier. Use a wrench to snap in the rod ends. I triflow the captured ends as well.

You can set the camber here with the turnbuckle length or wait until car is assembled.

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I usually use a drill bit to make sure there is no residue left in the pin holes. If have an arm reamer this is the time to use it. Make sure you don't use a larger bit and enlarge the diameter.

Triflow the suspension pin and attach lower a arm to the rear section. Secure with lock nut. Also secure the turnbuckle to the upper position. Notice the red threadlock. It's a good idea to measure the droop screw at this point. If you wait until the entire car is assembled, you will need a setup station or at least a caliper.

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Press the bearings into hub. I triflow the cvd joint and axle. Put the cvd thru the hub first.

Next I use SMALL amount of AW grease on hex pin and axle part that will be inside the wheel hex. If you do this make sure there is no excess. The grub screw used to secure the pin. Red thread lock is needed.

Don't forget the spacers when attaching the hub to the arm. Triflow the pin and secure lock nut. Slide the cvd into diff out drives and secure the turnbuckle to hub. Normally I'd use nothing here or just a bit of triflow, however I wanted to try the Tamiya VG grease (It's mainly for TCs.)

We are done the rear assembly

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Now we move on to the front end. I'm not gonna repost the details on the first part, since most of the assembly is the same as the rear.

Key differences: You might have different weight of oil, the kickup/suspension blocks face different sides when looked from each end. (Same order when looking front to back.) No wing mount or body post is on the front tower.

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The CVD/steering knuckles are assembled the same way as the rear. You are just pushing thru the block instead of the hub.

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Now the assembly gets to be different. First use some triflow on the steering collar and put it into the uprights. Put redlock into the screw hole on the knuckle, slide the cvd thru the upright, and finally tighten together with the button screw.

Triflow the suspension pin and attach the uprights to the lower arm. This captured by a screw rather than lock nut. I attach the ball nut to the knuckle last. Use red thread lock here.

Slide the cvd axle into diff outdrives and secure the camber links on top with locknut.

Notice I used joint grease again on axles.

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Put red thread lock into screw hole on kick up plate. Attach the front bumper, and we are done with front assembly.

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Tedious Sway bars is next. Snap in one ball end + one ball collar into each E3 part. Triflow everything.

Pick the sway bar you want to use, and secure into the ball end with grub screw dipped in red threadlock. Make sure the bar is flush with ball end.

Make both sets.

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Slide the E3 piece into the arm next. You have move this around a bit, when it's at the right angle the piece with slide into the arm. Don't try to force it. Secure both sides with screw.

Attach the A6 pieces to the bulkhead with screw first. Secure the the sway bar with grub screws next. Make sure the sway bar is even on both sides before tightening. You can use a little bit of plastic safe threadlock here if you want (Tamiya Blue.)

Do the same for rear.

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We can now start to assemble the main chassis. See the difference between lightweight and stock chassis.

I began by put thread lock in the radio tray + steering posts first. I also sized the side guard, and grabbed all the screws at the same time.

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Attach the Steering posts first. Then the radio posts.

I found the side guards to be a bit of pain to attach on this one. Make sure you don't strip the plastic here.

Attach the fuel tank mount. I didn't attach the tank stand with bleeder until later on. You can install it now if you wish.