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LusterKote - 4/8/2002 5:38:58 AM   
Ivan


 

Posts: 6
Joined: 2/12/2002
From: Wichita KS
Status: offline 		Is there any way to get a decent finish out of this stuff? It seems like the retarder they use is way too fast, and it dries before it hits the surface.

Did I just spend $50 on junk paint?

Ivan
       Post #: 1

LusterKote - 4/8/2002 7:12:40 AM   
Vince


 

Posts: 1650
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Nederland, Tx.
Status: offline 		Fraid so, in my experience it is absolutely the worst paint that has ever tried to spray from a can. Why they keep selling it without improving it is anyone's guess. As long as the mag reviews keep saying it works great, people will keep buying it.

IMPROVE THE STUFF TOP FLITE!!!!!!!

Are you listening?

Vince

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 2

LusterKote - 4/9/2002 1:14:13 AM   
Roby


 

Posts: 981
Joined: 2/15/2002
From: AMESBURY, MA,
Status: offline 		I agree with Vince , I tryed it using all the tricks,(shake the can
till your arm falls off,along with heating the can in hot water)I
haven't found anyone who likes the stuff or is willing to use it
twice. I've gone the latex route and very happy with it

Roby

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 3

LusterKote - 4/9/2002 1:39:32 AM   
wgeffon



Posts: 6376
Joined: 12/2/2001
From: Bloomington, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I've never had anything but good results with it. I dont do anything special to it.
This topic was a thread a few weeks back. Take a look. Some of my planes that were painted with this stuff are pictured there.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/tm.asp?m=71477]


_____________________________

Wayne

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 4

LusterKote - 4/9/2002 4:33:31 AM   
BingoFlyer



Posts: 352
Joined: 2/15/2005
From: Lady Lake, FL, USA
Status: offline 		I have never had a problem with LusterKote, the match is not good if you don't use their primer. I spray a very lite coat on and wait about 5 min. and spray on a wet coat. After allowing to cure for two days I wet sand and apply a second coat using the same technique. Some fell the need to use a clear coat but I find it not needed, the gloss is nearly equal to the MonoKote and match is good also (have not tried metalics but would think these may be imposible.

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 5

LusterKote - 4/9/2002 5:52:27 AM   
Ivan


 

Posts: 6
Joined: 2/12/2002
From: Wichita KS
Status: offline 		Ok, there is one out of about 10 who like the Luster kote.

What do you guys recommend?

Give it the Krylon touch then get a good clear over it?

Ivan

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 6

LusterKote - 4/9/2002 9:54:17 PM   
Roby


 

Posts: 981
Joined: 2/15/2002
From: AMESBURY, MA,
Status: offline 		Ivan

Consider latex, there has been much written about this
this subject and many seem to be getting good results.

I know I am, and I used Aerogloss,Stitts, etc for years and
I just switched , no oder,less money, decent results

Roby

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 7

Autobody. - 4/11/2002 1:36:07 PM   
JohnW



Posts: 1770
Joined: 3/22/2002
From: Lincoln, NE, USA
Status: offline 		I too despise Lusterkote. My experience is that is flashes very quickly but never cures. Stays tacky for life... swell. I too have tried all the mentioned tricks. I am now having a friend of mine who has his own paint booth paint my stuff. He works for and uses Dupont paints, about $30 to $80 per pint and the finish is awesome. Blows lusterkote away.

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 8

LusterKote - 4/12/2002 12:54:10 AM   
dgrant



Posts: 1077
Joined: 12/3/2001
From: Clovis, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I don't particularly like it. I do use it just for the fact, for me, it dries to a bullet-proof finish. It does orange-peel, and it doesn't match to well, but it seems easier to apply then your average paint, and for time and effort involved it's...(use term loosely here)...alright : .

It's almost unpaint like. I've not seen any other paint like it. The closest thing might be a polyurethane, or something with a rubbery base...dunno...I guess I'm a prime Lustrekote customer though, I just use it and accept it.

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 9

FINISHING w/LUSTERCOAT - 4/16/2002 6:54:46 PM   
TOYMAKER



Posts: 771
Joined: 1/15/2002
From: WAXAHACHIE, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I have had the opportunity to spray a fuse with this stuff. Here area a few tips that may help.

1. Make sure the paint or can is warm. I have set the can in hot water to get the temp up. Also helps if the part is warm also.

2. Make sure to have several spray nozzles handy and keep the spares in some cleaner like acetone to keep them clear. Change nozzles regularly.

3. Wet sand after the paint has cured. I use 600 grit wet and then buff the paint back to a shine. This way you can get by with out using a clearcoat. You can clearcoat if you want.

Getting this stuff to keep from orange peeling is tuff but this is the best way I know of to use the stuff.

Time to pony up for a compressor and gun.....

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 10

LusterKote - 4/19/2002 2:05:15 AM   
Big_Bird



Posts: 3321
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Arlington, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I recently painted a fiberglass cowl for a Giant Aeromaster with yellow Lusterkote. I used the recommended primer and followed their instructions. This is the first time that I've used Lusterkote and I'm having a hard time understanding what all the fuss is about. It came out very glossy and was a good match to yellow Monokote.

I guess my experience with Lusterkote will upset some folks because I'm not going along with the majority opinion.

So be it.

Ken

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 11

LusterKote - 4/19/2002 11:17:02 AM   
dgrant



Posts: 1077
Joined: 12/3/2001
From: Clovis, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Come to think about it BigBird..I have a Yellow plane that has lustrekote on cowling/wheelpants. It came out better then anything else I've tried. The yellow seems alot shinier, with no orange-peel. I think red's are another story though. I've not had to good of luck with red

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 12

LusterKote - 4/19/2002 12:10:01 PM   
Miniair



Posts: 155
Joined: 11/29/2001
From: Medicine Hat, Alberta
Status: offline 		One thing that seems to help allot and it works with all the brands of spray paint i've used is to shake the day-lites out of the can; put it a tray of hot water (not boiling or on the stove). Let it get warm, re-shake - re-warm the spray.

The paint comes out of the can better, flows out very nice and sets (flashes0 very well with no orange peel.

One thing I have found is to use the primer recommended by the manufacturer.


_____________________________

Jim Rea
jr@miniair.com

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 13

paint - 4/19/2002 5:17:37 PM   
CanopyFx



Posts: 163
Joined: 3/27/2002
From: Gilbert, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Ivan
Go to a automotive store (ex. pepboys) and pick up some of the plastic-kote bumper paint. They have a primer,colors and clear. They all work very well. I have painted over 300 canopies using their adhesion promoter and primer. I personally shot auto paint over the primer but if you want to stay with the rattle cans their color and clear is the trick. They paint goes on smooth and dries quick. If you stick with all the same brand (ex primer, color, clear) you will never have a problem. If you have any questions please shoot me an email [EMAIL=questions@canopyfx.com] QUESTIONS[/EMAIL]

Thanks
Joe


_____________________________

Thanks
Joe

(in reply to Ivan)
       Post #: 14

LusterKote - 4/22/2002 1:29:17 AM   
Campy



Posts: 3410
Joined: 1/2/2002
From: Baltic, CT, USA
Status: offline 		FWIW, I have found the Lustercote Aluminum (with the Lustercote primer) is about a close a match as you will get for Coverite Fabric in Silver.

(in reply to Ivan)