quote:

ORIGINAL: Cub Man

Sad part is you are uploading your photos to facebook. I check RCU at work on my lunch and break times. Most block facebook at the worksite......

Hello gentlemen,

I was hoping to play as well.

I came across this thread by chance and read a lot of the posts as it brought back fond memories of a CG Ultimate Bipe that I built and flew for years about 20 years ago.

It met its end while I was doing a “how low can you go” knife edge fly by and it touched the ground. The resulting cartwheel destroyed the wings and the fuselage suffered some damage as well.

I purchased a new wing kit from Goldberg (plus cabanes) but never got around to repairing the Ultimate (in 20 years).

After reading the thread I decided that it was time for the loooong awaited rebuild and went hurtling to my storage shed to started rummaging for the Ultimate and all the bits and pieces.

Now I have the fuselage with YS 120 four stroke, the new wing kit, and the plans. No sign of the interplane struts, I don’t remember if they survived the crash but there is a faint outline on the plans and I will build new ones.

mike

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quote:

ORIGINAL: mikmerl

Hello gentlemen,

I was hoping to play as well.

I came across this thread by chance and read a lot of the posts as it brought back fond memories of a CG Ultimate Bipe that I built and flew for years about 20 years ago.

It met its end while I was doing a “how low can you go” knife edge fly by and it touched the ground. The resulting cartwheel destroyed the wings and the fuselage suffered some damage as well.

I purchased a new wing kit from Goldberg (plus cabanes) but never got around to repairing the Ultimate (in 20 years).

After reading the thread I decided that it was time for the loooong awaited rebuild and went hurtling to my storage shed to started rummaging for the Ultimate and all the bits and pieces.

Now I have the fuselage with YS 120 four stroke, the new wing kit, and the plans. No sign of the interplane struts, I don’t remember if they survived the crash but there is a faint outline on the plans and I will build new ones.

 

mike

Thank you for the welcome gentlemen (and the membership #)  

I have included some attachments showing how my Ultimate looked in its youth (me as well)

It is indeed worth repairing I always remember it flew like it was on rails and the YS 120 yanked it around the sky with power to spare.

Alfredbmor I noticed your avatar photo and was intrigued as I fly something similar that I built in the late 70s from a plan published in the 9-71RCMagazine called Miss Scarlett. Power is an Enya 60-4c that has run so much that it has almost zero compression yet it runs reliably and produces enough power to fly this old bird around in a very scale manner.

mike

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Paul
A 120 four stroke turns a big prop (15x10) and produces a lot of torque.

It is not uncommon for me to use various engines during the lifespan of the model so I make large wedges to give the desired thrust(s). On this Ultimate I have made a wedge (see attachments) from aircraft ply that angles the engine at 4 degrees right thrust.

Remember to offset (as you mentioned) the mounting holes on the firewall accordingly so that your prop hub is always on the fuselage centerline.

mike

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quote:

ORIGINAL: mikmerl

Paul
A 120 four stroke turns a big prop (15x10) and produces a lot of torque.

It is not uncommon for me to use various engines during the lifespan of the model so I make large wedges to give the desired thrust(s). On this Ultimate I have made a wedge (see attachments) from aircraft ply that angles the engine at 4 degrees right thrust.

Remember to offset (as you mentioned) the mounting holes on the firewall accordingly so that your prop hub is always on the fuselage centerline.

mike

 

I hear you Paul.

You will only really know when you point the nose up vertically in a sustained full power climb.

mike

quote:

ORIGINAL: mikmerl

I hear you Paul.

You will only really know when you point the nose up vertically in a sustained full power climb.

mike

quote:

ORIGINAL: daveopam

Jean Paul, The fire wall does not have thrust built into it, but the front of your cowl does. If it were mine, I would see how much thrust is there. This way the finished model has the spinner centered and flat to the nose of the cowl.


David

quote:

ORIGINAL: J.Paul Saure

quote:

ORIGINAL: daveopam

Jean Paul, The fire wall does not have thrust built into it, but the front of your cowl does. If it were mine, I would see how much thrust is there. This way the finished model has the spinner centered and flat to the nose of the cowl.


David

Yes, the spinner should be centered in the ''center line'', but it doesn't matter if it is not ''flat'' against the cowl.

The model suggests a 2 degree right thrust for the old .65 two stroke, I'd suppose the cowl will have that much build in.
With the extra right thrust I will build in, I don't think the spinner will be ''flat'' against the cowl.

Once I glue the firewall with the selected right thrust, and offset the mount to the left to center the spinner, any adjustments post- flight will move the spinner from the center of the cowl. That's why I want to be as close as posible to the correct amount, and minimize the off-center.
Anyone with the Saito 125 and APC 16x6?? Or similar? OS120Surpass?

I will use the tru-turn 2-7/8 ultimate spinner, so I should have some ''wiggle'' room anyway. The kit calls for a 3'' spinner.


Saludos,
Jean Paul

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ORIGINAL: alfredbmor

Paul, that is a great hinging job, clean and nice, are you going to use wood sticks to secure them?. Congratulations for this remarkable clean and nice job.

quote:

ORIGINAL: J.Paul Saure

RE: Carl Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 Brotherhood.

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ORIGINAL: sirzepp

I'm running an FA-125 with an evolution 16x6, I like it very much. After reading your post I realize I did not add the required right thrust. OOPS. It's flying great, with very little trim adjustment needed and very little rudder input required on uplines, but I've definitely noticed my left thumb and finger doing some work...until now I didn't know anything was wrong. HA! So I'm going to add some down and right thrust in when I get home. I already drilled the cowl for the current spinner position, but I'll reposition and go with that. Planning a fiberglass specialties piece eventually anyway...so this cowl can get beat up. I feel like a crappy builder after seeing your build Jean Paul...you are a true craftsman.


Thanks for the comments... ...don't feel that way, I have been building kits for 18 years... (just more than half of my life)
The first ones did come out ''crappy'' , it is a matter of practice and obtaining (and using) nice tips and tricks.
I bought a Nexstar for my kids, first ARF ever, and I can tell you I can still build and cover better than the guy who built it! (but sure, he made it in a few hours, not weeks nor months... )

The tips I always give at the field:

- build to fly, not to crash: Avoid excess glue and don't let the ''aircraft ply doubling craze'' invade the model. Sand the pieces to adjust for the best posible fit. If there's a big gap, use scrap wood before reaching for the CA and accelerator... ...it is amazing how much better a light airplane flys.

- build clean: use paper towels, clean up excess CA and epoxy. Sand the pieces to fit well, use ''CA tips'' on the thin stuff. I do mean clean up after every glue joint is made. Clean those CA tips too! Acetone for CA, alcohol for epoxy. Clogged CA tips make a mess on the airframe. And make it a clean build inside and out, not only on the visible parts.

- use the right tools. My building quality went dramatically up when I began using specialized tools. With an x-acto knife and sandpaper there's only so much you can do. Dremel, hand fine saw, x-acto tool chest, (the one with razor planes, sanding block, copying saw) can make a lot of difference. I do have a slot machine (love it or hate it) and the Power Plane (I use it very little, but it has paid for itself every single time).

- don't rush it. In doubt, double check. Use your eyes AND the rulers, tapes, straightedges. Remeber: measure twice, cut once.

- sandpaper! Use different, progressive grains. i think this is the part that really sets appart the ''smooth hand''. Don't be afraid to sand your model, but it will take many builds before you get the ''feel'' for it on curved surfaces. Specially on turtledecks and leading edges. In fact, DO sand your model before covering, the monokote ''amplifies'' imperfections.
Tip: Use a rubber eraser if yoir sandpaper clogs up with dust.


When I return from USA I'll get back on the fuse. I'll try to post more pictures from the PC, as the camera on the iPad really sucks.
Speaking of USA, I'm ordering a SIG J-3 Cub 1/5 scale for the next build, I'll bring it by hand back home!! I'll have to save some $$$ as I won't settle for anything other that the Saito 60 twin. I hope the kids don't get tired of the Nextsar too soon, or I'll have to build them a Tiger2 first...


Saludos,
Jean Paul