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Posts: 4514
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Joined: 4/20/2003
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: Abbotsford,
BC, CANADA
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Hi Peter,
I like all go fast airplanes, one day I'll get another prop plane going haha. If there was any racing at all happening out here I'd probably get involved, but racing out here just doesn't exist, if it does, it must be like fight club, all underground and the first rule is "you don't talk about fight club" and the second rule is "you don't talk about fight club" lol.
As for the polishes, I use the 3M perfect it Rubbing compound, I think the number is 05933, and the Perfect it swirl remover 06064.
I don't remember the numbers for the waffle pads I use, the white one is used with the rubbing compound and the grey one which is softer is used with the swirl remover. The biggest trick though is using the 1500 grit discs to knock down all the orange peal and dust nibs, then using the 3000 trizact pads. All those products can be seen in this post http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9679091
The polisher is a Makita 9227C, I do all of my polishing on the lowest setting to try to keep the heat down. The big trick on the lightweight fiberglass we use in airplanes is to get rid of as many sanding scratches as possible with the 3000 grit pads and then keep the heat out of the polishing.
As for Farecla, I have had the unpleasantry of using it years ago. I hated it, I hate how it polishes, I hate that you have to keep it so wet so it makes a mess of everything, I hate that if it dries on your surface it's nearly impossible to get rid of it etc. The 3M products cut and break down into a high gloss shine much faster, less messy, and clean up with water. They are bodyshop friendly (not silicone based) and a little goes a long ways. The Farecla stuff seemed to take forever to bring up a shine.
As for Farecla's video's, what I've come to learn, is that video's don't show much, you can see a picture of a super high gloss that looks perfect, but then you see it in person and sure it's shiny, but all the sanding scratches are still in there.
I went to a wet sanding and polishing seminar at KMS tools a few years back, they had a guy in there who has built and painted hundreds of show winning vehicles. They were doing a black hood using all Norton products, everyone ooh'd and ahh'd at the finish after he sanded and polished it, I walked up to it and looked at it and asked "so how do you get rid of all the sanding marks?" Nobody could see them until I pointed them out, then they realized it looked like it had still be drug across gravel. So he polished it more, and more and more. He went back to wet sanding, polishing, sanding, polishing etc. He was using Norton 1500 grit paper, then a wool pad. I don't like wool pad's personally, I prefer the foam waffle pads. By the end of that course, the instructor was so frustrated, he finally said to me "you paint motorcycles don't you?" I told him yes I did, and his response was "you guys are the pickiest ****s I've ever seen, nobody else would have noticed these sanding marks if you hadn't pointed them out". All I could wonder was how many $100,000 cars did he do for people that had sanding marks in them. The truth is, outside, you'd probably never ever see those marks, but in shop lighting, it was horrible. He should have done a white hood, or silver, something that wouldn't show those marks as badly.
Anyway, long story short, after attending that course, (and feeling ripped off for spending $150 on it) I tried the 3M product (previously I had been using another product but I can't remember what it was called) and I couldn't believe the results, while the product was more expensive, it cut my polishing time in half with better results.
I love the 3M product, especially when I'm doing plastic bike parts, if you get them to warm you'll never get sanding marks out. Once you get a feel for the product, it's almost bulletproof, I have never burned through an edge using the 3M stuff, although I know a big part of that is experience, like any polish you can burn through if you're not careful.
I don't use 3M products exclusively in my shop, but 3M polishes and pads, 3M sandpaper, 3M masking tape, and the double sided foam tape they produce are worlds better than any other manufacture I have found. Definitely worth the extra money.
On another note, don't forget, Princeton is next weekend! (sept 17, 18, 19) are you gonna make it out?
Jeremy
quote:
ORIGINAL: ptxman
Hey Jeremy! You couldnt resist hanging around the piston bangers for old times sake when it comes to paint! Good timing. Thanks for posting.
Can you type re-iterate your polishing products + what kind of pad + model of Makita please. I couldnt quite make out the compounds in your videos but it sounded similar to what DE on the other thread used?:
- 3M Perfect in III Extra Cut Rubbing Compund 05936
- 3M Perfect in III Machine Glaze 05937
So for whatever reason, Ive been using Farecla G3 from a long time ago. I used it on my plugs & also on my molds. At the time I was more concerned that it was water based vs solvent & not wanting to introduce any kind of residue or waxes into the molds from other finishing compounds for fear of release agent incompatibility issues. But now that I think back on it, Ive never had what I'd call a mirror finish. A good shiny finish yes, a mirror no. Likely you've probably heard of Farecla being a Canuck? Am I trying to make '80 grit' do a '600 grit job' with that stuff? Or is it more operator error or the wrong polishing equipment? I see the videos posted on Farecla's site & THEY make it look nice & shiny.... But Im happy to turf it & by the big jugs of 3M if Im barking up the wrong tree.
(Peter T)
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-40 Racing >> Painting and Polishing, this will be of use to the racer guys too :) 
Painting and Polishing, this will be of use to the race... - 
