esherman

I just received my new Maxamps 2100HV 3S lipo and I am very happy with it's performance so far (It only has 5 cycles on it right now). However, I have noticed two things. The first is that the deans ultra connecter is VERY, VERY difficult to remove. I have to use almost all of my strength to pull it out of the ESC. This may turn out to be less problematic as time goes on and as the connectors wear a little. However I am not as worried about the tough connectors as I am worried about the possible solider joint problem. I have realized that when the + lead of the battery is moved to just the right position it cuts off power completely. I first noticed this on the ground (luckily!) when I was placing the battery in the battery tray after plugging it into the ESC and it has happened twice since the initial occurrence. It takes a fair amount of pressure to cause the lack of power but I do NOT want this happening in the air (for obvious reasons) and am worried that I may have received a defective battery. Is it possible that the solider joint on my battery is weak or is there something else wrong? If the joint is the problem, is there something that I can do here without sending it back for repair without voiding the 3yr/300cycle warranty that I purchased with the battery?

Thanks for any help!

JAM MaxAmps

Esherman, do you think the connection problem is in the Deans plug or where the wire hooks to into the battery it'self? If you think the deans connector is bad let me know an I will have one sent to you if you'd like. Otherwise if you think the connection problem is in the pack I would send it in for repair. And seeing that you have the warranty your covered anyways. Let me know what you want to do. Im here to help.

Jason
MaxAmps
[email protected]
www.MaxAmps.com

esherman

I think it is a problem with the deans connecter solider joint, as it only occurs when I move the wire within an inch of the connector but the connection stays good if I move the wires solidered onto the battery. I have some deans connectors here, so I won't be needing any (thanks for the offer though!). I just want to know that if I do decide to replace the connectors, will that alteration (new connectors) affect the warranty?

JAM MaxAmps

esherman, if you decide to resolder the deans connector your warranty will be ok. but if you find that the deans connector is damaged in anyway just let me know and I will get one on its way to you.

Jason

the wheel

[X(] I know this that if you have got the deans plug to hot when you soldered it on you esc the prongs will move and cause a very tight connection. when you solder deans plugs together you need to connect the male and female plugs together and then solder it makes for a perfect fit !

The wheel Chris Huston

Khatsalano

Nice to see this level of support. I just ordered some MaxAmps and I'm looking forward to a product with this level of continued dedication behind it.

- K

JAM MaxAmps

Guys a good way to solder the Deans plug is to Take a piece of wood Drill two holes big enough to fit a Deans connector into. Place a bit of JB weld in each hole no insert one male Deans and one female Deans into the JB welded holes and let dry. Now you just take the end of choice and insert it on to the opposite one it the board and solder away. I have a 12'' long 2 X 4 that has Deans Ultras, Mini deans, 4mm, and 3mm connectors all JB welded to it plus a few misc. different hole sizes also. It's a handy homemade solder tool.

Jason

sfsjkid

Last time I checked the directions (in a galaxy far, far away) they said the Ultra should not be plugged into the corresponding mating connector while soldered. I'm not sure why but may have to do with the contact springs. If you get hot enough to soften the plastic part, the connector will move. I don't mess with a soldering jig, my left hand holds the solder and left pinky is long enough to hold the connector

One hint that I picked up from new2rc in rcgroups is the use of snap ring pliers to disconnect ultras. All you have to do is drill an appropriately sized hole for your pliers, about 1/16" deep in the side of your connectors. The snap ring pliers can be used to connect also if you so wish. Up until then I used the lazy man's approach, hot glue instead of heat shrink tubing. Yeah, looked awful, but more often than not you ended up with ridges that helped pull those things apart.

Good luck!