Stock HBK2 lipo batt and motor getting HOT
01-16-2008, 08:08 AM
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Stock HBK2 lipo batt and motor getting HOT
I am trying out my new HBK2 with the stock motor (370 I believe) and 1000/10C Esky lipo.
At the end of a session when I detect the battery getting weak, I shut down. Problem is the motor and
lipo are both pretty hot. The stock motor has a heat sink.
My question is has anyone else experienced this and is it normal? I know that if the motor pulls more amps
than the battery is rated for, the battery will heat up. It seems like the engineers who designed the HBK2 would
have taken that into account. Am I running too much pitch? At full down I'm -1, at mid-stick,+5, and up stick +7.
No adjustment to PZT.
Will switching to dean's connectors help, and how do you know what normal heat post flight is? Will a 20C battery
heat up less?
Thanks for all your help in advance,
Don
At the end of a session when I detect the battery getting weak, I shut down. Problem is the motor and
lipo are both pretty hot. The stock motor has a heat sink.
My question is has anyone else experienced this and is it normal? I know that if the motor pulls more amps
than the battery is rated for, the battery will heat up. It seems like the engineers who designed the HBK2 would
have taken that into account. Am I running too much pitch? At full down I'm -1, at mid-stick,+5, and up stick +7.
No adjustment to PZT.
Will switching to dean's connectors help, and how do you know what normal heat post flight is? Will a 20C battery
heat up less?
Thanks for all your help in advance,
Don
02-01-2008, 02:11 AM
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RE: Stock HBK2 lipo batt and motor getting HOT
dicharry:
You need to first answer Jasons question. To assume that the factory will produce a good overall system is a little naive. They industry is getting much better overall, but there are still some almost unworkable systems out there. If you have a hot running system, something is not sized adequately, probably prop, motor and controller. To find out what is what, your going to have to buy or borrow a "Watt Meeter", best buy cause you need one to keep your equipment alive. The watt meeter will tell you what the demand on the system is in amps. If the prop is too large, and your amp draw is over specks, you can go down a prop length or pitch, or both to bring the demand down to reason, thus reducing system heat. Is this a brusshless motor, or the typical cheeipe brushed motor with gears? To really help, we all need to know. A deans connector, large red ones are much more efficient than most others out there and should become standard on your systems.
1. motor type, size and max amp rating.
2. Prop size
3. Controller size and type
4. How many cells in your lipo, what c rating
You need to first answer Jasons question. To assume that the factory will produce a good overall system is a little naive. They industry is getting much better overall, but there are still some almost unworkable systems out there. If you have a hot running system, something is not sized adequately, probably prop, motor and controller. To find out what is what, your going to have to buy or borrow a "Watt Meeter", best buy cause you need one to keep your equipment alive. The watt meeter will tell you what the demand on the system is in amps. If the prop is too large, and your amp draw is over specks, you can go down a prop length or pitch, or both to bring the demand down to reason, thus reducing system heat. Is this a brusshless motor, or the typical cheeipe brushed motor with gears? To really help, we all need to know. A deans connector, large red ones are much more efficient than most others out there and should become standard on your systems.
1. motor type, size and max amp rating.
2. Prop size
3. Controller size and type
4. How many cells in your lipo, what c rating
