glofuel

Can anybody upload a picture of the latest MSR ICU ign type showing the Drive washer/prop driver part on the MVVS 58cc engine,

Must shows the positions of the 2 magnets

The new 58cc and possibly the 45cc is now supplied with a different ICU electronic ignition which has 120/240 degree magnet timing as apposed to the earlier 180deg type

This would help a great deal

Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

Are you saying you got a 45 two weeks ago or your 58pro, I have my 58pro its the 45 I am waiting for, on the wife issue I am afraid I have had a few, I will never learn and still love them all.

Have you moved your magnet yet? or as I think still not sure which direction to move it in, note your post above good idea if someone has the latest and has got it running, because I have the latest but have not run it yet.

Mike

glofuel

Mike

Sorry, my one is the 58pro, they obviously did not get the 45's on same Del ?

I was hoping Extra 300 was going to mod his first and try it before me, but it looks like I will now seeing I'am not working today, I think I will do as I said above - hole in each segment and try magnets at the field held in with tape or something until I get it right before gluing them in, bit of a pain[]

Just figuring the easiest way to drill holes, I have a myford lathe and pillar drill, could possibly set my small rotary table up to index the positions to get them accurate without buggering up the driver

Your right about support from mvvs NO support what so ever and its over a week now !!!

Its not that difficult is it for someone to admit a cock-up[]

Even if they said they were looking in to it would be something

Really want to get this baby flying this weekend

Let you know later if I have any joy

Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

Someone has to be the pioneer and you have been ellected it would seem, you only have to drill two holes I think one in each direction, assuming the one at tdc is correct, good luck and do let us know how you get on, I will stay on line for the rest of the day so will be able to give moral support if nothing else.

Mike

glofuel

mike

your right about the 2 holes only, proberly waste of time trying others, just thinking of all posibilities before I load car up and go to field and get more disapointment

I think everybody else must of gone on holiday - no more comments from anybody else lately[8D]

bye for now

Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

I think the problem is that the 58pro is a bit of a rairaty at the moment so most will not know what we are talking about, we will just have to wait for MVVS to come back to us or JE.

Have a good fly and get it out of your system.

Mike

Extra_300_S

Ian,

Sorry for the misunderstanding but I don't have to modify mine, I have a 58 ISS LV, not a PRO. I have to remove the drive hub to extract a broken bolt.

JF

glofuel

Mike:
Just tried to remove one of the magnets using a small gas torch and it won't budge, it looks as if it is a tight press fit as well as glued. Given up on that idea for the moment, and of course the magnet has now lost its magnetic properties (de-magnetized due to heat).

Out of interest I placed the drive washer back on engine shaft to see if anything has changed as to sensing and now there is no sparking at all from the first magnet as before so the sensor/ICU must need to see each magnet with opposite poles ie one magnet is a north the other south.



JF:

Sorry I assumed you had the same problem, good luck with yours I am sure it is much easier to deal with.

Off to fly my H9 Funtana instead now, Its got a Evolution 26GT petrol with tuned pipe, Its superb as for reliability/power and fuel economy.

I will checked this evening for more reports.

Regards Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

I suppose with the moment of inertia from the hub spinning it would have to be a tight fit as magnets are quite heavy.

As I summised the north south magnets sound more plausable than both being the same pole, the ignition would not know which direction the motor was turning.

JF good luck with removing the bolt, mind you it is possible that only four bolts are needed to stop the prop from slipping some of the others I think ZDZ have only four as a matter of course. You may need to ballance the hub though by putting a stud in the other redundent hole, it is near the crank center line so it may not make any difference to the ballance. Just a thought.

Ian

I am very interested in the Evolution 26GT I am thinking of putting one in a F3A ship that I am building at the moment, If you could tell me what props it can turn and at what revs? I would be obliged.

Mike

glofuel

Mike

The Evolution 26GT petrol (1.60cu) as you probably already know is actually made by MVVS just branded with a different badge

I don't know what the difference in price is but shop around I picked mine up from Als Hobbies at a good price but may have been a one off special order somebody else did'nt buy

Any way I have had it approx 4wks and put almost 2 gallons through her now and I must say reliability isn't the word, easy to start as well, runs for a good 16 mins (TX timed) on 10oz tank with 1/4 tank left. My tank is on the CG about 12 inches away - no problem.

But it does need the 120/180 tuned pipe to get the power which needs to between 8500 -9200 rpm or there abouts. I tried it with a 150/180 quiet pipe and 17x8 apc which was giving about 8400, but probably about same power as an average 120 glow.

When I put the pipe on, it really came to life and produced something like an extra 1500 rpm !!! using the same prop which put it over the max revs of 9500 so I now use a 18x8 wood from JE which brings it down to around 9000rpm which seems the optimum. And is still very quite compared to most petrols of similar size.

Found that the apc props are too heavy if you want snappy 3D throttling but may be better for Aero's.

Does suffer from the heat a bit and will bog down a little with the weather as it is. So if you put a cowl around it make sure its got plenty of air, I am going to move mine from side mount to inverted so the head sticks out from underside of cowl, this is because the walbro carb is in front of the cylinder and covers alot of it.

Using a 1200mAh lipo and 5V reg for the ign but seems to only use about 350mAh after 4 or 5 flight so a 800/1000mAh should be plenty for an afternoons flying.

LED supplied is handy as well you can use it with a tacko to check revs and it stores the maximum revs reached during flight which will tell you un-loaded prop speed in flight (goes up about 200rpm compared to measuring on the ground).

By the way mine is the single magnet Vlach ignition (Evolution label on it) but I believe the newer MVVS one's now have 2 magnets as per 58 pro !!! not sure.

Any way I hope this helps and would recommend it.[sm=thumbup.gif]

Any more quieries please do not hesitate to ask - glad to help if I can.

Regards
Ian

pe reivers

Wow! have you guys been at it. Somehow I did not receive mail about these posts so OK, here I go:
Last week I received some engines with the L-ICU. It has two magnets. The N-magnet sits under the sensor with engine in top dead position, the S-magnet (yes, different polarity) LEADS the N-magnet by 120 degrees, so it skips one drive washer boss. This magnet senses piston position and ignition delay can be calculated. Without this magnet, the ignition is not set to fire again. It also senses direction of rotation, so the ignition stops firing when the engine rotates the other way.
Like glofuel found out, fitting a prop with the extra backplate installed makes popping off the taper fitted, and keyed drive washer easy. Leave the prop installed, fit a counternut, and unscrew the central prop bolt. The flange on the prop shaft will then pop off the washer. No extra tools needed.
Heating a magnet will make the magnetism vanish. Bad Idea. Check if the N-magnet still is OK, then just fit a small S-magnet at the 120° position (LEADING) and forget about the now redundant and de-magnetized old S-magnet. If both magnets are demagnetized, your drive washer is scrap. Ask JE for a replacement.

glofuel

Pe:

Many thanks

Finally somebody in authority has acknowledged my findings and confirmed the magnet positions/polarity

For know I will go ahead as planned and modify mine until JE gets the replacements, I know they are telephoning mvvs Monday

Cheers

Ian

BaldEagel

glofuel

Jenny from JE has just e-mailed me and asked me to send back the whole engine for a replacement to be fitted which they are receiving next week. I will phone and suggest that I only return the prop driver.

Thanks for the info on the 26GT will seriously consider this for my F3A that I am building at the moment sounds too good to be true, do you know how much it weighs individually? so that I can recon the positioning of the engine, ignition etc:

Pre
Thanks for your input, its rearly appretiated.

Mike

BaldEagel

Ian

Spoke to JE they are happy for us to take off the prop driver and send it back by itself if we are happy to do that, they will not receive the new ones until approx next Monday so don't expect a quick turnaround especially as the promise is from MVVS and not JE.

Mike

glofuel

Mike

I've had the same message from JE, I've already modified my prop driver and will be trying it again as soon as weather clears up a bit.

The info you require on the 26GT is available either on JE web under MVVS engines or Branded under the Evolution name on the Horizon Hobby web site. Do a google search and loads of info comes up

Cheers Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

I have all that information, but I take a lot of it with a pinch of salt and just use it as a guide, its much more informative to ask someone with real world experience of the product for in the field information. however I think I now have all I need to asess that engine.
Thanks for the information.

Do let us know if your mods on the drive hub have worked, got mine off using the drive washer method, very easy in the end, will be sending it back today I will let you know when I get the corrected one. Still waiting for the 45 which is holding up the completion of the Yak, very frustrating.

Mike

glofuel

Mike

The info advertised for the 26gt is correct as far as weight/dimms/power etc, But I know what you mean. You will need a proper pipe for it to get the rated power though.

By the way whats your 58pro going in ?

Ian

BaldEagel

Ian

What pipe do you recommend?

The 58pro is going in a QQ Pitts Python when they eventually get them into production, have a look on "Quique's Aircraft Support" Forum, unfortunatly they got a bit side tracked on the forum and it became a designer appretiation society for a while, but judging by the standard of the QQ 85" Yak I have the quality will be good, just the manual that may be suspect.

Mike

glofuel

Mike

Pipe for the 26gt: I have the 1.20/1.80 purple pipe from JE (plain ali color) or there is the one from mvvs, cant remember part No but worth comparing size/weight etc

The pitts sound good I will have a look

pe reivers

The MVVS part number for the 26cc tuned pipe is 3266.

BaldEagel

Preivers

Thanks for that will look on your web site.

Mike

glofuel

Just to confirm original problem.........

I have moved the second magnet to the correct position (120 deg)

And she runs fine now[sm=thumbup.gif]

Over revs a little on the 22x10 which was supplied and does not like starting from hot (will flood using auto choke) but starts easy from cold (single flick) after it has been primed correctly.

And the power looks like I had hoped for[sm=tongue.gif]

A little noisy using the 3204 silencer but should be better once proped correctly.

Should be awesome once run-in and carb setup

Cant wait to fly her again!!!!

Ian

pe reivers

The prosport needs a 22x10 3-blade prop.

BaldEagel

glofuel

Glad to hear it was only the prop driver and well done moding it yourself, I am still waiting for mine from JE.

Mike