blue yak54 56" cowl
10-15-2010, 09:54 AM
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blue yak54 56" cowl
Hello, I flew my yak for 2 flights, however it suffered the same fate as my first yak, the horizontal stab ripped off in flight. However this time i only lost the right side and the pull/pull stayed tight and i was able to get it down but i put it in a bush. The damage isnt too bad, so i decided to rebuild. Is there anyway i can get the cowl for it.
thank you
thank you
10-15-2010, 11:18 AM
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RE: blue yak54 56
What kind of damage did the cowl receive?
I've had great success by doing the following.
- Apply painter's tape to the outer surfaces closing up all holes... ( If there is a hole or missing piece tape on wax paper over the hole ).
- Mix up 30 minute epoxy and dilute it slightly with a BIT of alchohol.
- Apply fiberglass cloth to the inside of the cowl then brush epoxy on.
- Let dry, repeat.
- Sand the outside, trim any excess fiberglass from the inside.
- Apply primer then paint.
I can usually do this whole process ( allowing for drying time ) in about 2 days, with only 30-40 minutes worth of work at max.
I've had great success by doing the following.
- Apply painter's tape to the outer surfaces closing up all holes... ( If there is a hole or missing piece tape on wax paper over the hole ).
- Mix up 30 minute epoxy and dilute it slightly with a BIT of alchohol.
- Apply fiberglass cloth to the inside of the cowl then brush epoxy on.
- Let dry, repeat.
- Sand the outside, trim any excess fiberglass from the inside.
- Apply primer then paint.
I can usually do this whole process ( allowing for drying time ) in about 2 days, with only 30-40 minutes worth of work at max.
10-15-2010, 02:35 PM
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RE: blue yak54 56
I use regular Krylon.
I've never had it chip or come off even with cowl flexing.
Proper sanding is key.
You can use Bondo, etc on the outer surfaces, to smooth the surfaces where a chip or part may be missing, then sand them smooth with progressively finer grits before painting.
When I have a missing area I want to get to look like new, I'll put wax paper on the inside first, and apply Bondo to the outside. Once dry I'll remove the wax paper and apply fiberglass to the inside.
Epoxy and Bondo will not stick to the wax paper.... ( < - key point ) but the paper helps shape the materials.
I've also done the above to fill large holes, when I want to change to a completely different engine setup.
After you've done it once or twice, you'll find that it is a snap to do.
I've also taken to applying fiberglass to the inside of the thin nose cones that come with many foam EDF's.
I've never had it chip or come off even with cowl flexing.
Proper sanding is key.
You can use Bondo, etc on the outer surfaces, to smooth the surfaces where a chip or part may be missing, then sand them smooth with progressively finer grits before painting.
When I have a missing area I want to get to look like new, I'll put wax paper on the inside first, and apply Bondo to the outside. Once dry I'll remove the wax paper and apply fiberglass to the inside.
Epoxy and Bondo will not stick to the wax paper.... ( < - key point ) but the paper helps shape the materials.
I've also done the above to fill large holes, when I want to change to a completely different engine setup.
After you've done it once or twice, you'll find that it is a snap to do.
I've also taken to applying fiberglass to the inside of the thin nose cones that come with many foam EDF's.
10-15-2010, 02:40 PM
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RE: blue yak54 56
Also when you apply the epoxy onto the fiberglass, you'll know you've applied the proper amount when the fiberglass almost seems to disappear altogether.
