Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I want to get the Nitro Models CMP P-40 Warhawk 1.40 size plane. Will a DA50 50cc gasoline engine fit into it mounted upside down without cutting too much of the cowell area out. Weight wise it's okey as the DA50 weighs the same as many 1.40-1.80 four stroke engines. Also what retracts do I use. Can I use the $69 air retracts you have advertized or some mechanical ones. Which ones do you sell for that plane. 90 degree rotating? Also I was looking at the Magnum 1.80 four stroke engine -would that be better than the DA50.

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

A DA50 is way too much...the plane is barely bigger that your run of the mill .60 size Warbirds. I have seen them fly with a .90 2-stroke Nitro, and a 1.20 4-stroke Magnum or OS., a Da 50 would probably shake it to death, tearoff the firewall, and over stress the airframe. A 20cc or 26cc Gasser would be workable. Hobby City sells a 26cc with a rear carb for $139.00...
www.hobbycity.com The DA 50 would be good for Topflight's GS P-51 or P-47...

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I do have a new Eolution 1.00 Nitro engine sitting around with a pitts muffler you think that would fly the P-40 warhawk nicely. It does say that it takes a 1.40 though wouldn't it be underpowered. I was thinking about a Four stroke 1.80 engine.
Can you mount a two stroke engine sideways in this plane, looks like it's built for a upside down mounted four stroke.]

Also what is the covering material can you buy it in rolls for repairing the wing. Does it have to be airbrushed to color it.

opjose

Eh, there are two versions of this plane, a .60 and the 1.40 which you have. The larger plane is not about equal to a .60 in size and I believe Prop_washer2 is thinking about those.

A .90 2 stroker would make this plane very anemic.


The Evolution 1.00 NX would indeed make the plane somewhat underpowered... assuming you can keep the engine running properly...


The plane is built for inverted mount engines ONLY.

( I've never gotten my 1.00 NX to run properly... POS..engine ) and I would never put it into a nice looking plane like this... ).

A FS 1.80 is a good match and easy to install ( e.g. an ASP/Magnum 1.80 ) as is a two stroke 1.20 or larger engine.

The Gasser suggestion is also good, but you would want to purchase a rear carb gasser with a ( pitts style? ) inverted muffler.
Mounting may be tricky as the plane is set up for glow engines.

An Evolution GT26 with PITTS Style muffler would be PERFECT.... and easy to mount as this engine uses a glow setup.

The solarcoat material is indeed painted, so you would have to do likewise to repair the wings if needed.

Prop_Washer2

My Feedback: (26)

I agree, but a DA 50 is really out of the question. Hell, I guess you could hang a DA-170 on the front, but it doesn't make any sense. A 26cc gasser with a rear carb and inverted Pitts would be about the largest gas engine to put on it. The 1.80 four stroke would work as well. As you can see all of Nitro Planes in this catagory are 1.40 size (YS 4-stroke, or OS 1.40 2-stroke), or 1.60 size (2-Stroke). In reality they are 1.20 size birds. Check with Troy Built Models for retracts for the P-40. They have a similar size plane and the retracts look fairly good. If Nitro had some air retracts they should work as well.
Do a YouTube search for this bird, many are flying with a 1.20 Magnum/ASP 4-stroke and they do just nicely. The 1.00 NX would be a little light, but it will probably fly very scale...

opjose

Yup, absolutely for the reasons you gave, if not for it not fitting the mount and cowl.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

Is it easy to cover and airbrush the plane or would you just rip off the covering material recover with monokote in case of a crash.
I was looking at the Magnum (Copy 4-stroke) 1.80 engine for $200 at hobby city. With it comming from Hong Kong I think the you could use 5 or 10% nitro fuel to run it which would lower fuel costs from having to buy 20/20 fuel like for YS and OS.
Hobby city also has a new 26cc gasoline engine that's supposed to be small at 850 grahms with a walbro carb rear mounted. Would this engine be hard to install.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...s_Engine_3.0HP

The Sierra Retracts are outragiously expensive. I think there double the price of the plane. I would just like to get some all metal 90 rotating aftermarket ones.

I just ordered the plane so any info on it would be appreciated.

opjose

Check out the CMP F6F thread here. People there are doing all sorts of things with that plane and covering techniques for it are often discussed.

Where the engine comes from has nothing to do with the required Nitro content at all.

O.S. does not require 20% Nitro at all. Many people run the O.S. engines without ANY nitro, particularly outside the U.S.

Nitro does make tuning particularly smaller engines, easier.

There was a recent article in one of the big RC magazines, that went into Nitro requirements versus engine displacement.

The conclusion was that on engines larger than .46's 10% nitro was overkill. Beyond .91 size engines only 5% nitro is needed if at all.
Below .40 size engines, 15% nitro helps a lot with performance and tuning.

Also the same article talked about oil content. As the engine size goes up there is a disproportionate increase in surface space that must be lubricated. So as you increase displacement it actually helps power, longevity and performance to DROP the oil percentage. However standard 18% is fine all around if you do not mix your own fuel.

Y.S. engines are different. They are SuperCharged.

The built in Supercharger increases the pressurization of the air in the cylinder head. You would expect that this would LOWER nitro content requirements not increase it.


Yes it would be problematic. As I mentioned before this plane is set up for an inverted mount glow engine, not a gasser.

The engines are mounted in an inverted frame that is part of the upper cowl. You would have MAJOR problems getting that gasser in there because it must be mounted onto a firewall with standoffs.

If you are looking for an easy to install gasser, look at this one...

[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EVOE26GX]Evolution GX26 - Click me![/link]

Notice that it mounts just like a glow engine.

The thing I dislike about them is the front mounted carb, giving you little clearance from the prop hub. The Warhawk's unique cowl design however would work fine with it.


Heh... Nothing strange about this...

The planes are manufactured in China by low paid workers, who sit at long tables assembling them.

The Sierra Retracts are manufactured in the U.S. on CNC lathe machines that are fairly expensive. The numbers sold are fairly low.

Check out the Twin Engine Top Flite ARF. Nice plane, retracts are much more expensive than the plane.


You can use pretty much any standard rotating servos however go for some made for planes above the expected weight of yours.
I tend to move one size up. That way I'm purchasing gear that is sturdier than what would normally be installed on my plane.

btw the 90 degrees does NOT mean the amount of rotation, it refers to how much the gear fold up. There are 80 degree and 90 degree gear, most are automatically 90.

"Rotating" is what you are looking for, as your gear needs to fold back.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I have about 9 CMP planes and two 73" P40 , one was my testing grounds , so I will take #2 and do a full scale standoff bash .
These planes when originally introduced were designed around a 120 4 stroke . The CMP spitfire with virtually the same specs has been flown with success on a 125 4 stroke .
As cmp changed distributors from Giant Scale planes they updated there manuals to more of the warbird prefernace and that is to typically over power and have the power to spare .
The 73" P40 was the first of the new release or we now have our shi... togeter planes .
The best part about this plane is its light , the worse is the glass fuse is thin and tin cans when you squeeze it .
This is my suggestions
1)buy fliteskin - sand one side of the skin , use ca and place the flight skin inside the fuse at key points that you will handle a lot , like the front fuse , rear fuse ect , then the plane will feel like a nice larger warbird and not a paper airplane (see my FW190 Bash CMP warbird thread , i also use this product on all VQ planes
2) A saito 180 will fly this plane with ease in full house mode retract ect scale details , a 140 /150 stock set up with ease , a 125 will struggle but with out of the box , no mods no retract will still fly it its very light for its size
3)Gene Bartin use to make a spinner for this plane scale , look up TY in the ESM forums , he may be making them along with interior kits
4)Retract in order of prefernace Sierra -CJ and some have even used the robart 615
Now if your about budget try the new ESM retracts but nothing but troubles have been reports , so if you like to tinker give them a shot
5)Dubro makes great wheels light weight that with some plastic cut out moons will give you scale looks and light weight performance
6)Clear cote when your done will keep the paint on ,
Some guys down under did go gas on this plane but you better be experienced with building because it requires the most mods to the front end
7)one more thing on the retracts , no such thing as drops in , the wheel wells may need some mods as well as the rails need to be reinforced
8)fuel tail , wolrd models make the fuel tank that fits best for larger engins in this plane
9)If you look in Warbirds , Taus made some great mods to this plane including flaps , sliding canopy , scale tail ect , very nice in the end
10) overall , a gentale giant of a flyer , well worth the effort , no bad habbits , double check everything , counting on the instructions will only lead to problems
11)I am finsihing up my CMP Fw190 bash , many of the thing I speak of hear apply with the exception of the engine selection , a G26 is an easy install on the Fw190
12) you have options on the 4 strokes if you pick OS , or Saito , Magnum ,-OS and Magnum should have the same specs as far as after market mufflers , you can use mac product or Turbo Mufflers sold on RCU to keep it all in the cowl , no cust at all
13)fianlly , becareful with the ASP from Hobby KIng -its hit or miss just like Magnum , I bought many a magnum , told they were just like Os -not even close , the finish and tolerance will impact performance and OS has never let me down like Magnum .
My last magnum was a 180 , we will see how this one performs , but it is my last one .
Its saito and Os for me and trust me I am not a snob .
In closing with esm droping price to $300 on warbirds , the Future of CMP needs to be better or they wont cut it selling 70 thru 75" warbirds in the $200 thru $270 range , the quality compared to esm is not comparable and again , I am not a snob , I own many CMP planes , would never buy esm when they were sold by KMP due to the $500 price tag

opjose

I pretty much agree with what LDM posted... though I have no problems with Magnums ( thus far )... the Saitos are definitely my favorite 4 strokers at the moment. They are sooo tolerant of mistuning it is amazing.

Still my Magnum four strokers have been good thus far, albeit harder to tune than O.S. and definitely more so than the Saitos.

I'll also double stress his clear coat idea. I do this with most of my Asian ARF planes with good results. Heck I even do it with painted foamies ( though it MUST be applied extremely lightly least it melt the foam... )

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the good info. I usually take marine grade epoxy and fiberglass mesh and go through all my planes throughout the inside of the fuse and as much as I can do in the wing before I join the halfs. Will this help the weak fuse.
What is Fliteskin?
If the ASP is cheap I'll just have to spend more and get the Evo G26, someone shoud get wise and learn to modify the cheaper gass engines with standard mounts. I think the ASP would be simular in quality to my Thunder Tiger .91 four stroke. It's good at times but involves alot of tinkering to get it running right. My YS however runs like a top without any tinkering and never dies in flight. TT .91 is just inconsistant sometimes. Is the ASP simular to the TT.

So is it a good idea to go down to Harbor Freight and get the Airbrush kit for this plane. Can you spray the clear cote with the airbrush kit. Will the paint come off if I don''t clear cote it. An if so what kind of clear cote paint should I use.

I saw the ESM sale for $299 but I didn't see any P-40's I was looking at the new bearcat but really wanted a P-40.
I did see this plane for $399
http://www.skysharkrc.com/p40n.htm
I think this one would take my DA50 engine though.

opjose

Don't discount the ASP/Magnums... their needles are sensitive but once you have them dialed in all of mine have been rock solid.

The YS is supercharged, which means less needle fiddling.

With most other engines you have to adjust them a click or two on the HS needle practically at the beginning of each day out. This is pretty normal even with the O.S. engines.

Re: Clear Coat

No, Top Flite Clear Coat comes in cans.

Re: Airbrush

Why not just wait until you need it?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

The skyshark P40 is a great deal at $399 and $349 (no spinner )
Fliteskin is a ready made sheet in differnat thicknesses that acts like a fiberorus glass that is light and super strong , it can be used to sheet an open structure ect (google it )
As opjose said -clear cote in cans reday to use

Engines , I am trashing asp /magnum -all i am saying is your need patience with these engine and one trick is keep them moiste with oil, they love to be lubracated .
If you go with an ASP/magnum you need more experience with tuning 4 strokes

The ESM P40 will not be out until summer and its not in the same class of any of the planes we are taling about , its 1/5 scale with whopping $699 price tag , in this size Skyshark is a much better deal

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

So the CMP for $250 delivered is a good deal I'll be getting it today in the mail. Can you spray that clear coting in the can with the airbrush kit or do you use another spraying method.

opjose

There is no "airbrush kit".

The Top Flite clear coating is applied directly from the spray can.

You start with light coats applied about 16" away from the fuselage.

Apply a very light coat, wait 15 minutes and repeat.

After four coats, wait 1 hour or more, turn the plane over, and do the other side.

You may then later finish with one more pass.

You can apply Clear Coat to any NON TRANSPARENT surface.

Remove any clear plastic, etc. before you spray.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I'll definitely coat the plane with the Top Flight spray. I love this P40. Got it today beautiful plane a good value. Looks to be vary high quality built I like it better than my H9 or WM planes. The only part I see that needs to be reinforced is the flange on the fuse that the wing mounts to. A little epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth should do the trick. I like th Solartex covering and want to learn how to work with it in case of a crash I don't want to go to monokote. The plane looks alot better than the pictures in the add. That plane looks like some light green ugly version I don't know why they don't put the plane as it looks they would probably sell more of them.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

I just saw a good fit for a gasoline engine for this plane. The CRRC GP26R 26cc . This motor is like the Evo GX26 in that it mounts like a regular glow engine and has a rear carb on it. For around $200. What do you think of this engine. I have the CRRC Pro 26cc in a Funtana and it's a great engine I wonder if this one's good. Wow if this works out it will be a giant Scale Warbird for the price of a .60 sized trainer setup.

Is it a wise idea to put the throttle servo inside the engine area or did you guys mount it in the fuse with the other servos.

opjose

That would be a pretty good match, assuming that you have a similiar mount.

Once these engines are tuned they run pretty well.

Caveat: Throw AWAY the included spark plug and get a REAL NG CM-6 plug instead.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

So what do you think about moving the throttle servo in the fuse instead of the engine area - good idea or not needed. For gasoline engine install.

Will the NG CM-6 plug help with the need for high octane gasoline on these engines. I can only get 92 around where I live. I don't know if the R series are high octane I'll check when I get mine in a few weeks.

opjose

Octane is used to reduce knock particularly on higher compression and larger bore pistons.

These engines simply do not need the high octane.

Get the cheapest grade gasoline you can.

There were some recent articles on RC engines and fuels not to long ago in the magazines that went into all of this.

They went into detail as to why low octane is all that is needed.

The NK plugs have resistor cores which lowers interference and improves sparking.

Basil Yousif

My Feedback: (3)

The high Octane reduces knock by getting rid of preignition,the fuel igniting before top dead center. This is in high compression engines and I didn't know if these CRRC engines are high compression and that's why they needed High Octane. That's great though I'll just stick with the low octane. My existing CRRC engine runs fine on it. If it showed signes of preignition it would backfire and run rough.

opjose

Right, but cylinder size also comes into play with pre-ignition.

The article went into some detail on this.

With the small bores and displacements used on most of our engines, higher octane numbers merely waste money.

And yes the effective compression on our engines is relatively low, which is why we can turn them over with electric starters easily...

I start my 26cc engines with a heavy duty glow engine starter, w/o any problems.

The key was to merely use a much larger cone, to give it more leverage.

rcflyinmike

I've had my CMP P40 140 close to a month, Ihaven't bought anything els for it cause there's 3 swap meets coming upin the next 2 months and I'm hoping to find some goodies atbargainprices. Meanwhile I've been working on my wing flaps, 4-1/2" wheel bay inserts for 4" wheels, and I've moved my chin louvers to a more scale location. I've read yourrecommendationsfor the Evo G26, for another 50 bucks I could get the Evo G40 that also mounts on beams and not standoffs. Would the 40 be too much?... Here's some pics.

n6iap

How are we doing with the build? I am starting mine and looking for retracts.

Thanks,

opjose

I recently obtained some awesome Sierra retracts for my CMP BF109 1.40... they are perfect "drop ins".

I believe they also have suitable P40 retracts.