OS 61sf with a OS fueler system, carb and muffler
01-21-2015, 08:31 PM
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OS 61sf with a OS fueler system, carb and muffler
Bax... I have a motor that I need your help on. I have an OS 61sf with an OS fueler system and an OS 66 carb. Myself and my friend that is helping me with the hobby have never messed with the fueler system or that carb. First, the fueler.....is there any info that you may have on how to turn it correctly, hook it up correctly, or anything along those lines? And second.... The carb we believe is in need of a O ring kit and we have been unable to find it. Would you have any idea where to find one or know what size they are so we can find something that will work? Also we are looking for anything on how we can turn it correctly after the rebuild....
When everything is set and we find a plane to put it in, we will be running a straight pipe muffler on this thing and from what little we have ran this motor, should preform (and sound) amazing!! But also with that muffler, would there be any chance of damaging the motor with its lack or air flow resistance?
Thanks in advance for your help and if there is any other info you need from me just let me know and I'll be glad to get you whatever I can. Have a great day and Hope to hear from you soon.
Kevin
AKA Resqueguy
When everything is set and we find a plane to put it in, we will be running a straight pipe muffler on this thing and from what little we have ran this motor, should preform (and sound) amazing!! But also with that muffler, would there be any chance of damaging the motor with its lack or air flow resistance?
Thanks in advance for your help and if there is any other info you need from me just let me know and I'll be glad to get you whatever I can. Have a great day and Hope to hear from you soon.
Kevin
AKA Resqueguy
01-22-2015, 06:50 AM
#2
My Feedback: (11)
When you say "fueler system", do you mean the pump/regulator on the rear of the engine? Usually, when one refers to a "fueler", it's referring to the system you use to put fuel into the tank in the model.
We believe you have the O.S. Max .61 SF-P engine with the pump and regulator. Your engine has the #86 carburetor on it.
The pump has four fittings on it: "IN", "OUT", "S", and "R". "IN" is where the fuel line from the tank is connected. "OUT" goes from the pump to the nipple on the carburetor that's closest to the needle valve. "S" connects to the inboard nipple on the carburetor. "R" is the return line to the tank.
Your fuel tank will need 3 lines: fuel pickup from the clunk, a vent line from the top of the tank to exit out of the bottom of the aircraft, and a return line that dumps into the bottom front of the tank. You'll fill the tank via the return line or the clunk line...or you can add a fourth fuel line for filling, only. That line can dump anywhere in the tank and will be blocked-off once the tank's filled.
If you send an email to [email protected], we can send you the instruction manual for the engine. Normally, it's propped with a12 x 7 or 8 propeller and tuned to turn in the high 11,000's when leaned to peak RPM on the ground.
Your O.S. Max engine with pump should be set up in a slightly different manner than a non-pumped engine. Most modelers tend to get them set with the mixture too rich.One sign your engine's not adjusted correctly would be surging at full throttle. This almost always means it's too rich. Also, the idle may be too rich no matter what you do to the idle mixture. If the idle is leaned a lot, but it's still too rich, the high-speed needle's too rich and needs to be properly set.To get a good setting, you need to use a tachometer. Once the engine's had enough running to accept being leaned to peak RPM, use the tachometer to lean the engine to its peak.At full throttle, lean the engine until the RPM stops increasing. Continue to lean the engine to the first sign of RPM drop or detonation. When you get to that point, richen to the point just before you had the RPM drop or detonation and leave the needle there. DO NOT lean to peak and then richen your usual 1/4-1/2 turn.With a good-quality fuel, the pump system will insure that the engine receives enough fuel. The regulator in the system will make sure that the mixture stays correct as you change the throttle positions. Fly the engine to see how the mixture may change as the engine unloads in the air. You may have to lean or richen slightly, depending upon how it acts. Once you've found the proper setting, you should note the change from the absolute maximum lean position. Now you have a repeatable setting for your engine.Newer O.S. engines with pumps have a broader range for the needle setting, but you can use the same method for all of them.
We believe you have the O.S. Max .61 SF-P engine with the pump and regulator. Your engine has the #86 carburetor on it.
The pump has four fittings on it: "IN", "OUT", "S", and "R". "IN" is where the fuel line from the tank is connected. "OUT" goes from the pump to the nipple on the carburetor that's closest to the needle valve. "S" connects to the inboard nipple on the carburetor. "R" is the return line to the tank.
Your fuel tank will need 3 lines: fuel pickup from the clunk, a vent line from the top of the tank to exit out of the bottom of the aircraft, and a return line that dumps into the bottom front of the tank. You'll fill the tank via the return line or the clunk line...or you can add a fourth fuel line for filling, only. That line can dump anywhere in the tank and will be blocked-off once the tank's filled.
If you send an email to [email protected], we can send you the instruction manual for the engine. Normally, it's propped with a12 x 7 or 8 propeller and tuned to turn in the high 11,000's when leaned to peak RPM on the ground.
Your O.S. Max engine with pump should be set up in a slightly different manner than a non-pumped engine. Most modelers tend to get them set with the mixture too rich.One sign your engine's not adjusted correctly would be surging at full throttle. This almost always means it's too rich. Also, the idle may be too rich no matter what you do to the idle mixture. If the idle is leaned a lot, but it's still too rich, the high-speed needle's too rich and needs to be properly set.To get a good setting, you need to use a tachometer. Once the engine's had enough running to accept being leaned to peak RPM, use the tachometer to lean the engine to its peak.At full throttle, lean the engine until the RPM stops increasing. Continue to lean the engine to the first sign of RPM drop or detonation. When you get to that point, richen to the point just before you had the RPM drop or detonation and leave the needle there. DO NOT lean to peak and then richen your usual 1/4-1/2 turn.With a good-quality fuel, the pump system will insure that the engine receives enough fuel. The regulator in the system will make sure that the mixture stays correct as you change the throttle positions. Fly the engine to see how the mixture may change as the engine unloads in the air. You may have to lean or richen slightly, depending upon how it acts. Once you've found the proper setting, you should note the change from the absolute maximum lean position. Now you have a repeatable setting for your engine.Newer O.S. engines with pumps have a broader range for the needle setting, but you can use the same method for all of them.
01-22-2015, 11:12 AM
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You are correct.....It is the system on the back of the motor and you described the lettered on it. That will help out a lot. You are also right on the carb....it is a 86.....I looked at it wrong. As far as the O ring kit where is a good place to get those from? And I will send you an email for the manual this evening.....Thank you again for the info....You are the man!!!
Kevin
Kevin
01-22-2015, 12:06 PM
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One more thing.....The carb itself does not have a barrel in it....it has a flat piece that opens on both sides as it opens.....would this type take a special set of o rings?
Kevin
Kevin
01-23-2015, 06:59 AM
#5
My Feedback: (11)
Unfortunately, all parts specific to that engine and its carburetor have been discontinued for quite a few years. Some of the o-rings may be still available if they are of similar size used in current-production carbs. If they are clean, and not brittle, though, you should not need to replace them.
