1.40 cold starting?
03-07-2004, 02:22 PM
#1
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1.40 cold starting?
I've been running an inverted 1.40 with a Hatori header and pipe for quite a while now... 17x12/13, f type plug on 15% you know the story. Once it's been started and run, it'll start with one or two flips back against the compression and it's just fine all day. My problem is that first start... boy it's a job. Flick and flick, not a bite. Prime some... hydro lock, open the plug drain it out etc etc.
I've noticed that I'm getting a lot dark goo running out of the plug hole while draining... it has new bearing so it must be comming from the pipe, down the header and into the chamber... remember it's inverted! Turn it over and it just locks up! This whole show goes one for a good 20mins! Until it's all flushed out, spick and span and the engine starts to fire, backwards at first and then we're off. A whole day of no complaining. Help, this is doing my image no good at all.
Whats going on, what am I doing wrong and whats the cure?
PS. Thinking about this I'm tending to link the discolouring back to the Hatori Header. It's a two piece set-up and there must be some metal to metal friction going on. I replace the silicon O rings twice a year after I notice a considerable amount of residue coming out of the connection piont and staining the header pipe. Whats the opinion on the two piece set-up? Less than satisfacture I would believe. Both the engine and the header are soft mounted. The latter uses an MK Header ring and rubber coupler.
I've noticed that I'm getting a lot dark goo running out of the plug hole while draining... it has new bearing so it must be comming from the pipe, down the header and into the chamber... remember it's inverted! Turn it over and it just locks up! This whole show goes one for a good 20mins! Until it's all flushed out, spick and span and the engine starts to fire, backwards at first and then we're off. A whole day of no complaining. Help, this is doing my image no good at all.
Whats going on, what am I doing wrong and whats the cure?
PS. Thinking about this I'm tending to link the discolouring back to the Hatori Header. It's a two piece set-up and there must be some metal to metal friction going on. I replace the silicon O rings twice a year after I notice a considerable amount of residue coming out of the connection piont and staining the header pipe. Whats the opinion on the two piece set-up? Less than satisfacture I would believe. Both the engine and the header are soft mounted. The latter uses an MK Header ring and rubber coupler.
03-08-2004, 12:25 PM
#2
My Feedback: (11)
RE: 1.40 cold starting?
Doesn't sound like you're doing anything wrong, as far as procedures are concerned. What you do need to do is make sure that all of the exhaust residue is eliminated from the exhaust system after the day's flying. Also, you can try turning the engine over a bit with the exhaust port pointed down. This will allow any excess oil in the fuel to flow out the exhaust port. Point it nose-up to get the stuff out of the pipe.
The engine runs backwards during intial starting because it's too rich or flooded. You might try priming a little less and using a starter. Usually that cures the difficulty.
The black stuff can easily come from any parts that can touch. Pipe parts can touch inside the couplers. You might just want to trim the header a bit so it doesn't touch the pipe inside the coupler. If you're in doubt about the source of the crud, remove the pipe, run the engine and capture some of the exhaust on a piece of white card stock. You'll be able to see if there are any metal particles in the stream.
The engine runs backwards during intial starting because it's too rich or flooded. You might try priming a little less and using a starter. Usually that cures the difficulty.
The black stuff can easily come from any parts that can touch. Pipe parts can touch inside the couplers. You might just want to trim the header a bit so it doesn't touch the pipe inside the coupler. If you're in doubt about the source of the crud, remove the pipe, run the engine and capture some of the exhaust on a piece of white card stock. You'll be able to see if there are any metal particles in the stream.
