os 1.6 fx overheating in giles 202
11-01-2005, 07:20 PM
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os 1.6 fx overheating in giles 202
Hello,
I have about a 3 yrs. old 1.6 with bisson pitts muffler, pumped with perry vp30 pump, swinging apc 18-6 wide prop on a 10.5 lbs Ultra R/C Giles 202..I am having an over heating problem. Other guys are flying same setup with no overheating probs. I have the stock intakes on the cowl which everyone else has, and have almost the entire bottom of cowl cut out to let hot air out. I am running a good bit rich on cool power 15% nitro..I set the high speed needle very rich, would see huge drop in rpm then lean it out to about 8300 rpm which is about the best i can get on this prop..will fly about 5 mins, then starts to overheat...no grinding in bearing at all very smooth, but when hot the compression when turning by hand is not as good as when cold...I have ordered bearings and a piston ring..can't think of any thing else..i ran this engine in a 15 lbs Edge with no overheating problems for 2 yrs...but power is really not what i think should be in a 10.5 lbs plane...
one...am i missing anything?
two..should i replace the cylinder liner when i do ring or can i do ring without doing the liner..
anything else i should replace while i'm in the engine..i want it like new...love the plane but have had 15 or so dead sticks due to overheating ...broke one set of carbon fiber gear etc...getting $$$$$
thanks,
Brian
ps..engine not inverted as in picture..it is on it's side..same set up as in the Hanger 9 Edge it was in...
I have about a 3 yrs. old 1.6 with bisson pitts muffler, pumped with perry vp30 pump, swinging apc 18-6 wide prop on a 10.5 lbs Ultra R/C Giles 202..I am having an over heating problem. Other guys are flying same setup with no overheating probs. I have the stock intakes on the cowl which everyone else has, and have almost the entire bottom of cowl cut out to let hot air out. I am running a good bit rich on cool power 15% nitro..I set the high speed needle very rich, would see huge drop in rpm then lean it out to about 8300 rpm which is about the best i can get on this prop..will fly about 5 mins, then starts to overheat...no grinding in bearing at all very smooth, but when hot the compression when turning by hand is not as good as when cold...I have ordered bearings and a piston ring..can't think of any thing else..i ran this engine in a 15 lbs Edge with no overheating problems for 2 yrs...but power is really not what i think should be in a 10.5 lbs plane...
one...am i missing anything?
two..should i replace the cylinder liner when i do ring or can i do ring without doing the liner..
anything else i should replace while i'm in the engine..i want it like new...love the plane but have had 15 or so dead sticks due to overheating ...broke one set of carbon fiber gear etc...getting $$$$$
thanks,
Brian
ps..engine not inverted as in picture..it is on it's side..same set up as in the Hanger 9 Edge it was in...
11-02-2005, 03:11 PM
#2
My Feedback: (11)
RE: os 1.6 fx overheating in giles 202
There are several things that jumped out....
1) Your fuel tank has absolutely NO isolation from the engine's vibrations. You should have 1/2 to 1 inch of foam rubber around the tank. Make sure not to crush the foam rubber with a tie-down. Using a tie-down isn't really a good idea. You're better off using restraints across the ends, sides, and top of the tank so it won't move around....The restraints act like a box where the inner walls of the box contact the foam lightly, and the tank's inside the foam. A tank that's not isolated from vibration can wind up with the fuel being agitated to the point that the mixture leans...Your engine then overheats and quit. Your tank mounting system is ony asking for vibration-induced fuel foaming.
2) It's entirely possible that not enough air is running through the fins of the cylinder. You may have to add baffles to makes sure that any air coming into the cowl actually passes through the cooling fins.
1) Your fuel tank has absolutely NO isolation from the engine's vibrations. You should have 1/2 to 1 inch of foam rubber around the tank. Make sure not to crush the foam rubber with a tie-down. Using a tie-down isn't really a good idea. You're better off using restraints across the ends, sides, and top of the tank so it won't move around....The restraints act like a box where the inner walls of the box contact the foam lightly, and the tank's inside the foam. A tank that's not isolated from vibration can wind up with the fuel being agitated to the point that the mixture leans...Your engine then overheats and quit. Your tank mounting system is ony asking for vibration-induced fuel foaming.
2) It's entirely possible that not enough air is running through the fins of the cylinder. You may have to add baffles to makes sure that any air coming into the cowl actually passes through the cooling fins.
