New sleeve for OS .18 TM
#1
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New sleeve for OS .18 TM
Rebuilding my TM and am having a problen removing the old sleeve. I got the rod and piston off the crank okay, but the sleeve's pretty snug in the block. I've read about heating up the block to get the metal to expand but didn't know at what temperature and for how long?...What can I use to get the sleeve out while it's hot?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
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RE: New sleeve for OS .18 TM
We heat the case with a small torch. As long as it's heated evenly, no problems. You can also put it in an oven at about 250 degrees F and let it heat-soak. The only thing is that oil residues may smoke....not a good thing in an oven for food. Make sure you completely de-grease the case and bearings before you do that.
An industrial-type heat gun will also work.
If that doesn't work, the liner may have become distorted. This usually happens if the engine 'blows' a con-rod at high RPM. The rod will strike the liner and put a 'ding' in it. If that's the case, you may never be able to remove the liner without damaging the case, if you can get the liner out at all.
An industrial-type heat gun will also work.
If that doesn't work, the liner may have become distorted. This usually happens if the engine 'blows' a con-rod at high RPM. The rod will strike the liner and put a 'ding' in it. If that's the case, you may never be able to remove the liner without damaging the case, if you can get the liner out at all.
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RE: New sleeve for OS .18 TM
Great, thanks....The heat did the trick. I think I made small error, though. I put the new sleeve, piston and connecting rod in, but am having trouble getting the rod over the tab on the crank to lock it in...the crank doesn't go forwrad at all, and I can only angle-out the rod so much to try and fit it over. Should I have put the connecting rod on the crank first, then tried to wrist pin it into the piston?
#4
My Feedback: (11)
RE: New sleeve for OS .18 TM
You assemble the piston, rod, and wristpin as one assembly first. Install it correctly on the crankshaft, and then slide the cylinder liner down into the case, over the piston. Make sure you use a good-quality lubricant when you do this. Air-tool oil and Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) are good assembly oils.