DALE DREW

I HAVE AN OLDER FS120E SURPASS THAT I'M REBUILDING, AND HAVE BROKE DOWN TO THE POINT OF REMOVING THE WRIST PIN SO THAT I CAN REPLACE THE RING. I HAVE THE SLEEVE REMOVED AND THE NYLON WRIST PIN RETAINER REMOVED. HOW CAN I REMOVE THE WRIST PIN. IT IS STUCK IN THE PISTON AND ROD.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

We use a screw extractor (one brand is called an "Easy Out") to remove a stubborn wrist pin. Works like a charm!

DALE DREW

THANKS BILL,

I HAVE ALREADY TRIED THE EASY OUT METHOD, BUT THE METAL IN THE WRIST PIN IS SO HARD THAT THE EASY OUT WILL NOT TAKE HOLD. I ALSO TRIED TAPPING THE HOLE WITH A 5 MM TAP. AGAIN THE METAL IS TOO HARD TO EVEN TAP. I ALSO TRIED APPLING HEAT TO THE CON ROD AREA BUT STILL NO SUCCESS. IT LOOKS LIKE THE ONLY ALTERNATIVE IS TO CUT THE CON ROD WITH A DREMEL AND REPLACE CON ROD AND PIN. THIS ENGINE WAS IDLE FOR YEARS AND WAS TOTAL GUMMED UP. THE RING IS STUCK IN THE PISTON AND HAD NO COMPRESSION. EVERY THING ELSE OKAND CLEANED UP WELL. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS. THANKS DALE

Iflyglow

My Feedback: (79)

I personaly would try some prestone/crock pot. I use it all the time on old engines, and it does some amazing things. Put it in there for a few days on low heat. I put engines in the solution that sat for twenty years and they come out like new.

DALE DREW

THANKS MOTORMAN37 I HAVE ALREADY COOKED IT TOO. I HAVE FIXED A LOT OF ENGINES, BUT THIS ONE IS THE TIGHTEST ONE I HAVE EVER TRIED TO FIX. I JUST CHEWED UP 2 MORE EASY OUTS TRYING TO GET IT OUT. I THINK BEFORE I CUT THE CON ROD, I WILL TRY TO COOK IT AGAIN. BEFORE, IT WAS WITH THE SLEEVE STILL IN. THIS TIME I WILL BE ABLE TO GET TO THE BACK SIDE OF PIN BETTER.

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

If the wrist pin is "glued" into the piston with cooked fuel residue, and you find that you cannot remove it, then the only solution would be to cut the connecting rod. We've had to do that in a few cases. We drill holes in the rod close together, and then cut the remaining aluminum with a good set of cutters. That method produces fewer fine metal particles than using a saw. We can then get the piston out of the case and use a pin punch to drive out the wrist pin. We set the piston on a piece of wood with a hole in it and drive the wrist pin into the hole. Be sure to carefully clean up any metal particles that came from cutting the rod.

DALE DREW

THANKS BAX
YOUR IDEA IS WELL PRESENTED AND I WILL I DO SO AS A LAST RESULT. WILL LET YOU KNOW OUT COME. THANKS DALE

DALE DREW

BAX

THANKS BILL FOR THE HELP. I DID NEED TO CUT THE CON ROD IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE PISTON. I FOLLOWED YOUR INFO ON DRILLING THE ROD AND IT WORKED GREAT. BY KEEPING THE DRILL CHIPS VACUMMED OUT, I WAS ABLE TO KEEP THE CRANKCASE REASONABLE CLEAN. I FOUND THAT THE SMALL RETAINING WIRE ON THE BACK SIDE (FRONT) OF THE PIN WERE WELL ATTACHED AND WOULD HAVE BEEN IMPOSSIBLE REMOVE ANY OTHER WAY. THANKS AGAIN DALE

CUB-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

It ain't quick or easy but here's how I did it w/o destroying any parts. Remove the head,push rods and tubes,the carb., the tappets and the cylinder sleeve. Align the wrist pin up with the hole in the rear of the cylinder casting. Remove the teflon pin pad with a pointed 2-56 screw.SOAK for about two days the inverted piston with JB Blaster. Keeping it as wet as possible. Obtain a #3x2" steel taper pin. (True Value Hardware) While the soaking is going on put a small amount of fine valve grinding compound on the small end of the tapered pin.Slowly, with a back and forth rotary motion, lap the tapered pin to the ID of the wrist pin. This will produce a "rough" finish on the pin about 3/8+ " long. From time to time heat the piston using a heat gun( Harbor Ft. 1500 Wt).,not a monokote gun, heat the piston really hot Hold the engine with some pliers. Apply some more grinding compound to the lapped end of the tapered pin and insert it into the ID or the wrist pin using the lapping motion as before.Wiggle the pin about in the wrist pin to help loosen the wrist pin in the two piston bosses. This ain't easy or quick but it worked for me. No cutting of the rod or damage to other parts. Try not to get impatient.............

Bax

My Feedback: (11)

You have to be careful if you're tapping something into the wrist pin because you can break through the other end of the piston. Don't ask how we know! (heh, heh). That being said, any way you can get the engine apart without damaging it further is a good way to do it. Tom's method has merit and is worth a try. Where we've had to destroy the connecting rod was in engines where there was absolutely no other choice.