FahrtAutoRC

Finally a problem I cannot figure out. 2001 Olds Alero, loaded, 3.4L V6. 107K miles. Ran perfect yesterday, started fine etc etc, but all of a sudden today it will crank over like crazy but not start. Checked spark, can hear the fuel pump start up fine, no bad fuses or relays. Nothing seems loose. Tomorrow I will have my pressure gauges back and will be checking to see if it is the filter or a weak pump, but until then, any other suggestions? I have found many complaints about this but no solutions, and apparently GM won't recognize it as a defect. Hmmm.

DaveG55

Have you checked for spark?
Low fuel pressure will cause all kinds of running problems but should not keep it from starting.
Have you checked all of the fuses under the hood?
If you truly think it's a fuel delevery issue you might try putting a small amount of fuel directly into the throttle body. If it tries to fire then you may be on to something. If not, have you checked for spark?
Other things I can think of that may cause crank but no start would be Cam and/or crank sensor but those things stop the spark... Maybe TPS, ASD relay also.
Have you tried reading for any stored codes?

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

Somewhere along your fuel rail you will see a either a schrader valve, or something similar. Turn the ignition on and open this valve, if fuel sprays out, it's not a fuel pressure problem. I would pull one of the plugs off an injector and take a multi meter reading. You should see blips around 8 volts. If you're not seeing anything, than the ECU is probably on its last leg. Also, check every single ground.

quietnas1

Check the crank position sensor and the cam shaft position sensor. Had both those things go bad on me on my Dodge Status. Same issue engine would turnover with no problem but would not start. Also if it has a timing belt, check that as well.

The_Shark

yeah, it does sound like its a crank/cam sensor especially if it has starting issues out of nowhere.

a quick shot of starting fluid will also help to see if its a fuel delivery problem if you already know spark is there, failure to start will only leave the crank/cam sensor(s)

FahrtAutoRC

Well thank you guys for the suggestions. I am about to go outthere soon and start tinkering with it, I will let you know what I find!!!


And yes, I checked the spark, nice crisp clean blue spark and the plugs are in great shape. I also checked and double checked every fuse and relay in the car.

Looks like we will check the sensors then too!

Lunchboxer

No check engine light / error message from OBD-2?

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

I betcha its the ignition. My old man had an alero with the same issue. Same year, but a 4 cylinder. Went thru 3 ignition switches.  

Foxy

Oops, wrong thread

The Hedgehog

Even though he sees a spark?

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

well he said he checked a spark and thats all we know. but yes, theres something inbetween the fuel and spark stopping the two from getting together. its got something to do with the pass lock system in the ignition switch. look it up on google. its a common issue for the aleros. the ignition switch will unfortunately run about $250 and up

FahrtAutoRC

After poking and prodding with my voltage meter and pressure checks I found it to be a bad fuel pump that just randomly quit overnight. I found an identical car at the local pull-apart with a near-new Bosch fuel pump and made the swap, the car fired up and took care of 50 miles worth of errands today Thanks for the help though guys!

The_Shark

sweet... was it one of those jobs where it was under the back seat? those are awesome to do.

by the way, GM pumps usually fail due to overheating, they are cooled by the fuel in the tank, so to get the most out of the pump you want over a 1/3 tank all the time (impossible i know[])

quietnas1

Cool. Glad you got it fixed.

cumminspower5.9

My Feedback: (4)

wow bad fuel pump. I was sure it had to do with the ignition. sounded just like the issue lol. oh well. glad you figured it out.

FahrtAutoRC

No Shark, I wish it was I had to drop a tank at Pull-A-Part to get the pump i needed and go back home and drop the tank on ours, had to replace GM's s****y "non-repairable" plastic fuel lines and make my own out of new high pressure fuel hose, then had to puff my chest to hold it in while I reattached everything. Big job, big pain!

And I have heard that about GM before. When I got this car for my fiancee I made the rule right then and there, NEVER below 1/4 tank. We treat that as "E" around here, so it is easier to maintain that level. Plus I go personally whenever she needs gas and put it up over 1/2 tank. Can't be mad though, this is the first problem we have had with this car. I bought it last summer at auction for $1900, 93k miles, fully loaded, great shape. All I had to do then was put in new upper rear strut bushings and new front tires.

The Hedgehog

Pretty good deal for the money that's a great car

FahrtAutoRC

That same day I almost had a better one, I had $3800 in my pocket. I saw this gorgeous '03 Chrysler 300, 52K miles, showroom spotless, deep metallic red paint, tint, fully loaded with tan leather interior, limo tint, etc. An old man next to me was battling with me for nearly $2k of the bidding, and made a VERY hesitant bid at $3800, of course. I gurantee if I had another 100 in my pocket that day I would have that car haha

Parts were cheap for this one too, Hedgehog, total of $37.86 for everything yesterday!

The_Shark

what is funny is the cheaper the car i buy, the more reliable it is!

FahrtAutoRC

True, my Ranger was a $1000 beater and it still goes strong, even with my goal of working it to death!

Eman77

The Brown Turd I drove all through college (Datsun Stanza, cira 1980 or so) beds to differ. That thing was a POS.



However, cheaper new-ish cars (meaning, simpler) are likely more reliable. Manual transmission, not much power anything - yeah, they are better, since there's less to go wrong.