which subwoofer?
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which subwoofer?
which subwoofer do you think is better? I will be installing it into the box for the logitech z-5500 system so if you think i different subwoofer then it has to be 8 ohm, 10inches, 188watt rms or under.
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/m...108/detail.asp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18625
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/m...108/detail.asp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=18625
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RE: which subwoofer?
Sigh.
Check out this please, don't be fussing around with car subwoofers in a home audio application. http://partsexpress.com/
More is involved with just shoving a 10" driver in to an enclosure also. What happen to the original 10" driver that was in the Z-5500 did it die from abuse?
Check out this please, don't be fussing around with car subwoofers in a home audio application. http://partsexpress.com/
More is involved with just shoving a 10" driver in to an enclosure also. What happen to the original 10" driver that was in the Z-5500 did it die from abuse?
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RE: which subwoofer?
no i don't abuse mine but i know the kicker works in there. mostly this is for my friend right now because he is abusing his and its going to die soon i know it. he also wanted to change the subwoofer when it dies
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RE: which subwoofer?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZrWQa_CtHk
kicker in z-5500 box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHc8N...eature=related
i would use one 12inch 8ohm if i did this
kicker in z-5500 box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHc8N...eature=related
i would use one 12inch 8ohm if i did this
#5
RE: which subwoofer?
Sound's like complete Ass if you ask me..Get an alpine 10" type R if your after a 10" same goes for the 12"..make sure the box is ported! sealed box's are no good.
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RE: which subwoofer?
Extra, are you just speaking for sealed boxes with that specific driver? Or are you saying sealed boxes sound no good in general, because I feel the complete opposite way, maybe it's cause I don't listen to boomy rap, I prefer the tight accuracy of a well setup sealed system.
#7
RE: which subwoofer?
ORIGINAL: RevToTheRedline
Extra, are you just speaking for sealed boxes with that specific driver? Or are you saying sealed boxes sound no good in general, because I feel the complete opposite way, maybe it's cause I don't listen to boomy rap, I prefer the tight accuracy of a well setup sealed system.
Extra, are you just speaking for sealed boxes with that specific driver? Or are you saying sealed boxes sound no good in general, because I feel the complete opposite way, maybe it's cause I don't listen to boomy rap, I prefer the tight accuracy of a well setup sealed system.
#8
RE: which subwoofer?
In my experience the sealed box is much more efficient with better control of the cone. Ported boxes are known for higher overall output, but also often suffer from ringing due to turbulent flow around the vent. The computer-designed boxes with vents are probably the best bet, but unless they are designed for a specific driver, the match may not be there. Uneven loading will produce problems sometimes appearing as 'holes' in the response, and this is not as readily apparent with a sealed system.
...if you ask me [sm=wink_smile.gif]
...if you ask me [sm=wink_smile.gif]
#9
RE: which subwoofer?
ORIGINAL: Reiko
In my experience the sealed box is much more efficient with better control of the cone. Ported boxes are known for higher overall output, but also often suffer from ringing due to turbulent flow around the vent. The computer-designed boxes with vents are probably the best bet, but unless they are designed for a specific driver, the match may not be there. Uneven loading will produce problems sometimes appearing as 'holes' in the response, and this is not as readily apparent with a sealed system.
...if you ask me [sm=wink_smile.gif]
In my experience the sealed box is much more efficient with better control of the cone. Ported boxes are known for higher overall output, but also often suffer from ringing due to turbulent flow around the vent. The computer-designed boxes with vents are probably the best bet, but unless they are designed for a specific driver, the match may not be there. Uneven loading will produce problems sometimes appearing as 'holes' in the response, and this is not as readily apparent with a sealed system.
...if you ask me [sm=wink_smile.gif]
#10
RE: which subwoofer?
I understand your point, and this is of course highly subjective as everyone has different ears. As long as the sound pleases you, the right choice has been made. You're so right about the sealed box being cheaper too. This is especially true when the vented enclosure treads into higher orders, such as 4th or 7th.
I hope I did not come across as if I know what is best for everyone. If so, I apologize.
I hope I did not come across as if I know what is best for everyone. If so, I apologize.
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RE: which subwoofer?
RevToTheRedline:
Extra, are you just speaking for sealed boxes with that specific driver? Or are you saying sealed boxes sound no good in general, because I feel the complete opposite way, maybe it's cause I don't listen to boomy rap, I prefer the tight accuracy of a well setup sealed system.
Extra, are you just speaking for sealed boxes with that specific driver? Or are you saying sealed boxes sound no good in general, because I feel the complete opposite way, maybe it's cause I don't listen to boomy rap, I prefer the tight accuracy of a well setup sealed system.
Reiko:
In my experience the sealed box is much more efficient with better control of the cone. Ported boxes are known for higher overall output, but also often suffer from ringing due to turbulent flow around the vent. The computer-designed boxes with vents are probably the best bet, but unless they are designed for a specific driver, the match may not be there. Uneven loading will produce problems sometimes appearing as 'holes' in the response, and this is not as readily apparent with a sealed system.
In my experience the sealed box is much more efficient with better control of the cone. Ported boxes are known for higher overall output, but also often suffer from ringing due to turbulent flow around the vent. The computer-designed boxes with vents are probably the best bet, but unless they are designed for a specific driver, the match may not be there. Uneven loading will produce problems sometimes appearing as 'holes' in the response, and this is not as readily apparent with a sealed system.
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RE: which subwoofer?
ORIGINAL: d3d5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZrWQa_CtHk
kicker in z-5500 box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHc8N...eature=related
i would use one 12inch 8ohm if i did this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BZrWQa_CtHk
kicker in z-5500 box
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHc8N...eature=related
i would use one 12inch 8ohm if i did this
#13
RE: which subwoofer?
We just went to deeply into the technical aspects, not OT.
The existing box is probably your best bet, provided the new 10 has numbers similar to the old 10, if you're able to ascertain that information from Logitech. The cone volume and material, surround type, and the overall volume of the driver are going to play a role in the output quality. Basically, I would go with a 10 as long as the cone material is the same, i.e. paper, poly, coated paper, whatever.
The exisiting crossover frequencies and levels will work best if you make as few changes as possible.
The existing box is probably your best bet, provided the new 10 has numbers similar to the old 10, if you're able to ascertain that information from Logitech. The cone volume and material, surround type, and the overall volume of the driver are going to play a role in the output quality. Basically, I would go with a 10 as long as the cone material is the same, i.e. paper, poly, coated paper, whatever.
The exisiting crossover frequencies and levels will work best if you make as few changes as possible.
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RE: which subwoofer?
Man, it's been a long time since I looked into this - I the late 80's/early 90's I got a top of the line sub with no box (free). So, I started researching the science behind building speakers. There's a heck of a lot more to it than just throwing in any old speaker that will fit in an enclosure. One of the biggest factors in determining enclosure size is speaker throw. Basically, the more air a speaker can move, the bigger of an enclosure it usually needs. Certainly, there is more to it than that, and what it boils down to is that unless you are willing to spend the time to look into acoustic science, you are better off replacing a broken speaker with a like item. The closer you can get to factory specs the better off you will be.
Finally, ported enclosures do not necessarily have less accurate sound reproduction. You can mismatch any speaker and enclosure. For instance, if you put a long throw speaker in a too small enclosure without ports, the speaker can exhibit a harmonic distortion (the returning sound waves from inside the speaker box interferes with current output). Many factors come into play though. However, most high end subs use a passive radiator to prevent distortion as its probably much more efficient.
But these are all moot points. If you are replacing a speaker in a factory enclosure, your best bet is replacing the item with something as similar to the original as possible. Going with something of much higher quality (more throw, more power handling, better frequency response etc) will not garauntee better sound as you could easily end up with a mismatched set.
Finally, ported enclosures do not necessarily have less accurate sound reproduction. You can mismatch any speaker and enclosure. For instance, if you put a long throw speaker in a too small enclosure without ports, the speaker can exhibit a harmonic distortion (the returning sound waves from inside the speaker box interferes with current output). Many factors come into play though. However, most high end subs use a passive radiator to prevent distortion as its probably much more efficient.
But these are all moot points. If you are replacing a speaker in a factory enclosure, your best bet is replacing the item with something as similar to the original as possible. Going with something of much higher quality (more throw, more power handling, better frequency response etc) will not garauntee better sound as you could easily end up with a mismatched set.
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RE: which subwoofer?
Put this one in there..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-612
Your neighbors will thank you for it..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-612
Your neighbors will thank you for it..
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RE: which subwoofer?
ORIGINAL: HawkChalk
Put this one in there..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-612
Your neighbors will thank you for it..
Put this one in there..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=293-612
Your neighbors will thank you for it..
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RE: which subwoofer?
yeah no sh*t?? i wasnt being serious.. that sub would eat ur amp for breakfast and sh*t it's nuts and bolts by brunch..
theres always room for an upgrade..
theres always room for an upgrade..
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RE: which subwoofer?
well my friend is getting the new sub first because his sub is going to blow. he is deciding to get the kicker 10inch a posted because it is louder and we know it works in are box and with are system because people have done it before. thanks for the help [sm=thumbs_up.gif]