Ernie Misner

Hey guys,

Not too far off topic hopefully because it is my new Ford Ranger that hauls the planes to the field. The new Ranger calls for 5-20 synthetic blend oil. Yikes, that is pretty thin stuff isn't it? I suppose it helps the fuel milage claims. I wonder about the life of the engine with oil this thin though. I will stick with this for now, but perhaps others go right to 10-30 weight oil for longevity of the engine? Thanks for any input!

Ernie

smokingcrater

not quite 5-20, but i've run nothing but 5-30 full synth through my '96 ford escort, over 160k miles and the thing still puts out substantially more power then stock as measured via a gtech. (with various mods) The exhaust pipe leaves absolutely zero residue on your finger if you swipe the inside. Very few vehicles, especially ones at that mileage, can claim that.

I wouldn't use synthetic blend though, there is absolutely no advantage to using a synth blend compared to regular old dino oil. Since it still contains regular oil, it breaks down the same and has all the weaknesses regular oil does, just at a higher cost. Also you have no idea what the percentages are, it could be 1% synth, 99% conventional, with a pricetag that is double. Go regular oil or full synth. Also, if you don't change your own oil full synth tends to get VERY expensive, $40 - $50 per change.

finally, you said 'new', so you should be fine there, but most vehicles will tend to leak a little oil if you run only synthetic. it doesn't expand the seals as 100% petro oil does, so it just comes with the territory. I've seen many vehicles develop a slow leak after the owner switches.

Rod Robbins

I had the same concerns as you when I got my new '03 Ranger. In fact, I asked the same questions at the Ford service department and indicated that I'd like to switch over to Mobil-1 full synthetic ASAP. In the course of researching it, I discovered that Ford and Honda started using their own 5W-20 blend in 2000 in order to meet CAFE (fuel efficiency) standards, which is as you suspected.

Ford (Motorcraft) has a "synthetic blend" 5W-20 that they recommend. Also, when I was at their service department just last week, I noticed that they now have a Motorcraft 5W-20 that's fully synthetic. I'll probably have them use it for the next oil change, since it'll maintain the warranty. Don't know how it compares to Mobil-1, though.

Anyway, I let them (Ford) talk me out of switching to Mobil-1 on the Ranger for the time-bean, mainly over warranty concerns. I've used Mobil-1 in my '94 Taurus for years, changing it at 5000 mile intervals, and it runs like a champ at 90K miles. The very first thing I noticed after switching to full synthetic is that the gas mileage improved about 2mpg. It's not enough improvement to pay the difference in the cost of the oil, but it helps. I figure that it just HAS to be lubricating better than petro oil to produce a change in engine efficiency like that.

I noticed recently that Mobil-1 has now introduced its own 5W-20 grade for these newer vehicles. Once I'm out of warranty, I'll probably switch.

One thing you have to watch out for, though, is the tendency to stretch out the oil change intervals just because of the higher cost. If you do it yourself, though, you can change the oil and filter for about $25.00 if you watch for the sales.

Hope this helps...

Regards,
-- Rod

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I (we) have been using synthetics for over 20 years and have used delvac and amsoil mainly. I have maintained a fleet of around 20 or so vehicles ranging from small motorcycles, cars pick-ups to semis and farm tractors. Over the years we have simplified our routine to changing oil 1 time per year (if vehicle is driven very much) regarless of miles.

I am now using amsoil 0w30 in tight engines and amsoil marine 15w40 in very loose engines and still feel it is a waste to change oil as frequently as I do. I would definetley stay with the thin oil (100% sysnthetic) and change it once per year.

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

Go to any of the ford truck forums and you will find thousands of posts about 5-20 oil. Like Ernie, many owners were concerned that it would be too thin to protect. It seems to be working fine, and there are lots of posts claiming that using a thicker oil in these engines will cause a problem.

This oil has been recommended for a few years and the tempers in the Ford truck forums have calmed down from what they were at one time. They have done a better job of coming to a consensus, than we have in the castor vs synthetic debate.

guver

My Feedback: (325)

I like thin oil and tight clearances. I was unaware of using a 20w oil, but I guess I should buy a new car once in a while

Possibly they are far better at holding tolerances now than when I was machining. Possibly far better engineering of parts distortion too.

I think the only reason I would even consider using a thicker oil is if I lived in a warm climate and used my vehicle for heavy loads constantly, but then it probably wouldn't be a ranger

tsands

My Feedback: (3)

UD Are you kidding me!!!???!!! The oil may be fine???????? I doubt it but you need to change the filters I have a GMC with almost 300k and I change the oil every 10 or 12k with Valv. 5 30 and never have to put a drop in it... once a yr just seems ODD to me. Now my moms car that gets drove MAYBE 1k a yr I could see it but the filter being in there for a yr worries me JMO

guver

My Feedback: (325)

No, I am not kidding. Sometimes I will do a filter at 6 months, but sampling shows that is not always necessary. Very harsh or dirty service will require it, but not regular driving. Sometimes cars that sit or ones that have short trips may even require more frequent than ones getting driven regularly. We get mileage of 15k - 20k on some cars and on the trucks get only 50-75 k per year. Usually the more miles one puts on the better the benefit and the longer one can go.

You are getting good service at 10-12k, how long does that take in time?

Ernie Misner

depfife, can you point me towards one of these truck forums somewhere?

Thanks!

Ernie

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

http://www.f150online.com/index.cfm

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php

I'm sure there are others, but these two are pretty active.

Dago Red

My Feedback: (11)

when ever your not sure about somthing on your vehicle, always stick to OEM specs. Running differ oils in your engine wont really effect your engine if its new, btu after maybe 60,000 miles, its best to stick to what you got. changing oils and viscositys, what not could maybe ruin your bearings and what not, Not good, ive seen a engien that the bearning went bad, it somhow through a crankshaft, yes, crankshaft, was nasty to see it.

Kweasel

My Feedback: (29)

Consider the temperature when you start the vehicle. The 5-20 may be ideal if its sub zero. The rest of the industry recomends viscosity requirements based on the outside temperature. Ford says 5-20 for all temps, I think thats a bit thin for the southern states.

tsands

My Feedback: (3)

Udud it takes about 2 to 3 months to get that sometimes but mostly 4 to 6.



edited for sp

Dago Red

My Feedback: (11)

I run 5w-30 down in the southern states, ive noticed that when i go up to indiana to visit in the winter, my engine has a hard time turning over, either its oil problems, i was Toyota's own brew or the batterywas having problems, never hooked up a DMM to it.

SLJ2137694

My Feedback: (33)

Do you all enjoy trying to out engineer the manufacturer of your vehicle? Who do you think knows more about it? Who tests their products in Death Valley heat and Arctic cold? Use what the manufacturer recommends as far as viscosity for the temp range you intend to use it in. Your owners manual should have a chart in it to show you what to use. If you have a new vehicle and do your own service be sure to keep your receipts and keep records of when you serviced your vehicle just in case you have to prove you properly maintained your vehicle. Sometimes a manufacturer will assist an owner with an out of warranty repair if it has been properly maintained. As far as synthetic lubes go, use them whenever you can, they are FAR Superior to petroleum lubes. I use Mobil-1 5-30 in my 2005 5.3L Chev. Silverado 4X4. I also use synthetic differential lube and chassis grease.

Dago Red

My Feedback: (11)

Out engineer the manufacturer is what aftermarket parts are all about!!!!

SLJ2137694

My Feedback: (33)

Aftermarket parts are about making the same part for less money in most cases. That still doesn't imply that that company or person has invested the research and development time that the OEM did. However, if thinking that way gives you a warm fuzzy feeling, go for it! Oh, one more thing. How many aftermarket parts do you use in the F-16?

Ernie Misner

A good question about going to a heavier weight oil is......, will the origional tight tolerances of the engine increase (wear) to accept the heavier oil?

Ernie

SLJ2137694

My Feedback: (33)

Ernie, If you have an engine that has worn to the point that the bearings or pistons are very loose, a heavier weight oil could be of some use. If we are talking about recently manufactured engines that are typically machined to very close tolerances, you can use a lighter weight oil than what you might have considered using 30 years ago. Todays engines have a much better machined finish and are assembled to very tight tolerances, this is why a specific break-in routine is not needed anymore. Usually you are reminded to vary the driving routine and not tow heavy loads for maybe 500 miles and that is about it.

One more thing, a 5w-20 oil will get into those tightly fitted components a little easier than a 5w-30. This is a small point but if the manufacturer says use a 5w-20, that is what I would use, and I would use a synthetic if I could find it in 5w-20. I use 5w-30 in my vehicles and that is what GM recommends.

Ernie Misner

SI 72....... thank you for the words of wisdom. They are appreciated very much. Do you belong to the AMA (model airplanes)? I do!

Ernie