Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
03-30-2009, 10:11 AM
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Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Here's the original thread link...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47..._1/key_/tm.htm
I just bought a new Stryker body and so am starting a new thread with much of the original strength and ease of use mods that were found in the first thread. Reason why I'm doing this is I tend to ramble which makes much of the important proven information in the first thread somewhat hard to find. I'll try to stay to the point and clear with the build steps and mods this time but no promises.
Many of these mods are derived from the original "F27" thread and the later "Dark Side" threads. I was there from the beginning, starting out with a 27B Stryker, later converting to brushless birds with standard electronics. It was fun to read the messages from the introduction of this great plane and watch and experiment myself with my own mods as well as those tested by fellow Stryker owners. I saw many mods evolve into proven tips, while others died for better ideas. Thanks to the effort of Stryker owners, along with many builds and failures with my own testing, these mods will help you to keep the plane together in bad landings or wrecks, stiffen it for brushless speeds, and make it easier to service the plane in the field without running into major hassles.
The Stryker is a proven design that does well at both high speeds and gentle soaring thanks to it's great delta wing design. It's also a really good value at $20 for a body and all the cheap parts that can be found on most hobby store shelfs. It builds fast and will take a lot of punishment thanks to Parkzone's excellent Z-Foam.
Let's get started on building one of these birds. First picture is of removing a screw that is shipped inside the nose. This nose weight is used to help avoid a tail heavy condition. Tail heavy planes DO NOT fly well, so always make sure your center of gravity is correct. Most people balance the plane right at the circle indents inside the finger holds. I tend to like my planes a bit nose heavy for more "scale like" performance. It also makes them more stable and more forgiving in flight. You won't need the screw in the nose when building a custom bird as the battery will be moved forward to compensate. No need for excess weight. Remove the screw with a pair of needle nose plyers of some type. This nose that was shipped with my body is defective. Looks like it was heated to much and as a result shrunk in size. I'll have to make a trip to the store for a replacement nose.
The next step is to install two carbon tubes (not rods) into the body, crossing each other underneath where the motor mount is. This is essential to keeping the motor mount from breaking through the body in a hard landing or nose end. I can't tell you how many times this weak spot got me in my eary days. In addition to protecting the motor mount area, these two tubes help stiffen the wing and the front of the body to protect it in a crash. Notice the tube extends out to flush with where the nose mounts. This helps protect the very front of the fuse. Another area prone to damage on a nose in.
The tube from wing tip to wing tip I had on hand was shorter than I prefer. In a normal installation the tube should go from wing tip to wing tip. However, this one is long enough to do the job and strengthen what it needs to. If you don't have a local hobby store that sells carbon tubes then head over to Walmart or some other store and pick up a couple of carbon arrows that bow hunters use. These are bigger in diameter but will still fit the body nicely. If using a tube that is long enough to reach from very tip to very tip, I recommend you bend the tube so that it reaches the tips in a better area. It should just touch the tips of the stock carbon tubes in the body as well, enhancing the design for stiffness. This tube should be just in front of the fin humps on the bottom of the plane. If you are worried about tube placement in order to avoid the screws for the motor mount then test fit the mount and note where the screws are. They should be well out of the way with the tube mounted just in front of the humps.
Melt out the channels for the tubes using a soldering iron or sand them out with a dremel. I prefer to melt them out and then get my final depth by sanding by hand with some coarse sand paper. Note that the wing tube is installed first. The nose to tail tube has more foam to sit in so it can lay on top of the wing tube and still be flush with the body foam.
After you melt and test fit the tube channels take some Gorilla glue (home improvement stores) and lay a line of glue into both channels. Put some drops of water at various intervals in the channel (doesn't take much) and then mix the glue and water with a que tip. Gorilla glue is great in that it is VERY strong, foams up to fill nooks and crannies, and requires less because of this foaming action than say epoxy, thus saving you a lot of weight. I remember the days of pouring epoxy into these channels and as a result adding a good bit of weight to the plane.
Install the tubes and then tape over them with clear or Tyvek tape. Tyvek tape is meant to stick to foam insulation and can be found at home improvement stores. It's expensive but sticks much better than clear tape ever will. Tape down over the channels and tubes tightly and then put as much weight as possible onto them to help avoid the glue foaming out. Don't worry if it does escape some as this glue will peal pretty easy away from the foam when needed. If you aren't experienced with Gorilla glue I suggest you play with it first to get an idea of how much is needed in the channels to avoid excessive foam out. This will also help you to get an idea of how much water to use. I'd say I use about 1/20th or less water to glue. It takes very little to active the glue.
After the glue has dried (an hour or so) you can peal the tape off it and the body. Later we'll be covering the tube channels with tape again but I prefer to use Extreme strapping tape for this (Office Max or Staples). This tape has strapping fabric that runs in both directions inside the tape and is VERY strong.
More photos and build steps soon as work progresses.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47..._1/key_/tm.htm
I just bought a new Stryker body and so am starting a new thread with much of the original strength and ease of use mods that were found in the first thread. Reason why I'm doing this is I tend to ramble which makes much of the important proven information in the first thread somewhat hard to find. I'll try to stay to the point and clear with the build steps and mods this time but no promises.
Many of these mods are derived from the original "F27" thread and the later "Dark Side" threads. I was there from the beginning, starting out with a 27B Stryker, later converting to brushless birds with standard electronics. It was fun to read the messages from the introduction of this great plane and watch and experiment myself with my own mods as well as those tested by fellow Stryker owners. I saw many mods evolve into proven tips, while others died for better ideas. Thanks to the effort of Stryker owners, along with many builds and failures with my own testing, these mods will help you to keep the plane together in bad landings or wrecks, stiffen it for brushless speeds, and make it easier to service the plane in the field without running into major hassles.
The Stryker is a proven design that does well at both high speeds and gentle soaring thanks to it's great delta wing design. It's also a really good value at $20 for a body and all the cheap parts that can be found on most hobby store shelfs. It builds fast and will take a lot of punishment thanks to Parkzone's excellent Z-Foam.
Let's get started on building one of these birds. First picture is of removing a screw that is shipped inside the nose. This nose weight is used to help avoid a tail heavy condition. Tail heavy planes DO NOT fly well, so always make sure your center of gravity is correct. Most people balance the plane right at the circle indents inside the finger holds. I tend to like my planes a bit nose heavy for more "scale like" performance. It also makes them more stable and more forgiving in flight. You won't need the screw in the nose when building a custom bird as the battery will be moved forward to compensate. No need for excess weight. Remove the screw with a pair of needle nose plyers of some type. This nose that was shipped with my body is defective. Looks like it was heated to much and as a result shrunk in size. I'll have to make a trip to the store for a replacement nose.
The next step is to install two carbon tubes (not rods) into the body, crossing each other underneath where the motor mount is. This is essential to keeping the motor mount from breaking through the body in a hard landing or nose end. I can't tell you how many times this weak spot got me in my eary days. In addition to protecting the motor mount area, these two tubes help stiffen the wing and the front of the body to protect it in a crash. Notice the tube extends out to flush with where the nose mounts. This helps protect the very front of the fuse. Another area prone to damage on a nose in.
The tube from wing tip to wing tip I had on hand was shorter than I prefer. In a normal installation the tube should go from wing tip to wing tip. However, this one is long enough to do the job and strengthen what it needs to. If you don't have a local hobby store that sells carbon tubes then head over to Walmart or some other store and pick up a couple of carbon arrows that bow hunters use. These are bigger in diameter but will still fit the body nicely. If using a tube that is long enough to reach from very tip to very tip, I recommend you bend the tube so that it reaches the tips in a better area. It should just touch the tips of the stock carbon tubes in the body as well, enhancing the design for stiffness. This tube should be just in front of the fin humps on the bottom of the plane. If you are worried about tube placement in order to avoid the screws for the motor mount then test fit the mount and note where the screws are. They should be well out of the way with the tube mounted just in front of the humps.
Melt out the channels for the tubes using a soldering iron or sand them out with a dremel. I prefer to melt them out and then get my final depth by sanding by hand with some coarse sand paper. Note that the wing tube is installed first. The nose to tail tube has more foam to sit in so it can lay on top of the wing tube and still be flush with the body foam.
After you melt and test fit the tube channels take some Gorilla glue (home improvement stores) and lay a line of glue into both channels. Put some drops of water at various intervals in the channel (doesn't take much) and then mix the glue and water with a que tip. Gorilla glue is great in that it is VERY strong, foams up to fill nooks and crannies, and requires less because of this foaming action than say epoxy, thus saving you a lot of weight. I remember the days of pouring epoxy into these channels and as a result adding a good bit of weight to the plane.
Install the tubes and then tape over them with clear or Tyvek tape. Tyvek tape is meant to stick to foam insulation and can be found at home improvement stores. It's expensive but sticks much better than clear tape ever will. Tape down over the channels and tubes tightly and then put as much weight as possible onto them to help avoid the glue foaming out. Don't worry if it does escape some as this glue will peal pretty easy away from the foam when needed. If you aren't experienced with Gorilla glue I suggest you play with it first to get an idea of how much is needed in the channels to avoid excessive foam out. This will also help you to get an idea of how much water to use. I'd say I use about 1/20th or less water to glue. It takes very little to active the glue.
After the glue has dried (an hour or so) you can peal the tape off it and the body. Later we'll be covering the tube channels with tape again but I prefer to use Extreme strapping tape for this (Office Max or Staples). This tape has strapping fabric that runs in both directions inside the tape and is VERY strong.
More photos and build steps soon as work progresses.
03-31-2009, 09:46 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Next step is to tape over the wing tube with Extreme strapping tape. I'm going to use this tape instead of clear packing tape for the plane as it's stronger and will protect/strengthen the plane better. Again, it's found at Office Max or Staples and has strands that go in both directions, unlike regular strapping tape that only goes one way.
Next place the tape is placed is folded over the trailing edge of the wing where the elevon hinges go. This will give less flex and also prevent the hinge pins from pulling through the plane.
I'm going to use the stock elevons ($4) for this build. I've played with balsa elevons before but find that they will tend to rip through the trailing edge on a wreck as they won't flex with the body like the stock foam ones will. Some people glass or use balsa on the trailing edge of the wing to counter this but in my opinion it's more trouble than it's worth. Look at it this way...If the stock elevons get chewed up over time you can just unhinge them and throw on a new pair. I find that they hold up very well, though.
Put the elevon in place and then use an exacto knife to slice through the hinge, tape, and body. When you install the pins DO NOT force them as they can break. After putting the zips on by hand use a pair of plyers to click them down a bit more to the point where the tape/foam pinches a bit.
Next step is to melt out the battery chamber so that the lipo can sit lower and more forward in the body. You'll see a raised foam platform in front of the original battery chamber. Melt this down and melt the entire chamber lower so that the lipo will clear the battery hatch easier. To melt the foam I just heat up a piece of square metal with a propane torch. I find that melting foam will keep it stronger than cutting it out with a knife. Test the heated metal on some junk foam first to make sure it isn't too hot and will melt more foam away than wanted.
Next we'll modify the battery hatch and hood scoop to so they are one piece. This makes servicing in the field much easier. Heat up a knife and cut off the latch on the battery hatch. While your at it throw away the latch catcher. Neither will hold up well in a crash and will soon break. Also melt off the little plastic pins that are meant to hold the covers to the foam as well.
We are going to use magnets to hold these covers on as well as the nose. Tape, hinges, or other physical connections between the body and parts will only chunk foam in a wreck, while magnets allow them to come off in a wreck without chunking foam. The magnets I'm using were found at Pat Cattans craft store. I'm not sure if they are rare earth magnets (smaller and with stronger hold than regular magnets) but they are darn strong.
Epoxy the two covers together at the lip. Also epoxy carbon or ply on the sides of the lip. The lip it's self is not strong enough to hold up in a crash so it's a good idea to do this.
Next step is to melt two holes into the body for the magnets to glue into with Epoxy. Melt these holes deep enough so that the magnet will sit flush with the foam surface. After the epoxy has cured put a little piece of tape on top of both magnets with it's sticky side up. Now install the one piece canopy/battery hatch and press down in the two magnet areas. Remove the cover and the tape should be sticking on the covers where the magnets will go. Circle the tape with a magic marker, remove the tape, and epoxy the hatch magnets on. NOTE: Make sure you check the polarity of these two magnets so that they are on the proper side to attract to the body magnets. If you have them on the wrong side they will repel instead.
Heat up some metal and also melt two holes on the front of the fuse for the nose to attach to. Why not just glue the nose on? You want it to come off in a wreck to absorb moment and also to deflect the body away from a direct impact with the ground. If you glue the nose on it'll chunk foam in a wreck. Again, magnets are MUCH easier to use than tape, rubberbands or other methods of joining them. These two magnets in the photo are sunk far enough into the body so that the nose magnets can recess into the body foam so that the nose is flush, unlike the canopy body magnets which should be just flush with the foam. Don't sink those magnets further into the body than flush or you won't get a good grab to the canopy. The canopy/battery hatch will still sit flush with the body. With the body magnets for the nose sunk the ones glued to the nose side should be on the surface of the foam and not sunk into it. Or, you can just sink all of your magnets flush with the foam surface and do it that way. I just feel that having the nose magnets recess into the body foam grabs the nose and holds it a little better, though I never had a nose come off in flight when doing it the other way.
Next place the tape is placed is folded over the trailing edge of the wing where the elevon hinges go. This will give less flex and also prevent the hinge pins from pulling through the plane.
I'm going to use the stock elevons ($4) for this build. I've played with balsa elevons before but find that they will tend to rip through the trailing edge on a wreck as they won't flex with the body like the stock foam ones will. Some people glass or use balsa on the trailing edge of the wing to counter this but in my opinion it's more trouble than it's worth. Look at it this way...If the stock elevons get chewed up over time you can just unhinge them and throw on a new pair. I find that they hold up very well, though.
Put the elevon in place and then use an exacto knife to slice through the hinge, tape, and body. When you install the pins DO NOT force them as they can break. After putting the zips on by hand use a pair of plyers to click them down a bit more to the point where the tape/foam pinches a bit.
Next step is to melt out the battery chamber so that the lipo can sit lower and more forward in the body. You'll see a raised foam platform in front of the original battery chamber. Melt this down and melt the entire chamber lower so that the lipo will clear the battery hatch easier. To melt the foam I just heat up a piece of square metal with a propane torch. I find that melting foam will keep it stronger than cutting it out with a knife. Test the heated metal on some junk foam first to make sure it isn't too hot and will melt more foam away than wanted.
Next we'll modify the battery hatch and hood scoop to so they are one piece. This makes servicing in the field much easier. Heat up a knife and cut off the latch on the battery hatch. While your at it throw away the latch catcher. Neither will hold up well in a crash and will soon break. Also melt off the little plastic pins that are meant to hold the covers to the foam as well.
We are going to use magnets to hold these covers on as well as the nose. Tape, hinges, or other physical connections between the body and parts will only chunk foam in a wreck, while magnets allow them to come off in a wreck without chunking foam. The magnets I'm using were found at Pat Cattans craft store. I'm not sure if they are rare earth magnets (smaller and with stronger hold than regular magnets) but they are darn strong.
Epoxy the two covers together at the lip. Also epoxy carbon or ply on the sides of the lip. The lip it's self is not strong enough to hold up in a crash so it's a good idea to do this.
Next step is to melt two holes into the body for the magnets to glue into with Epoxy. Melt these holes deep enough so that the magnet will sit flush with the foam surface. After the epoxy has cured put a little piece of tape on top of both magnets with it's sticky side up. Now install the one piece canopy/battery hatch and press down in the two magnet areas. Remove the cover and the tape should be sticking on the covers where the magnets will go. Circle the tape with a magic marker, remove the tape, and epoxy the hatch magnets on. NOTE: Make sure you check the polarity of these two magnets so that they are on the proper side to attract to the body magnets. If you have them on the wrong side they will repel instead.
Heat up some metal and also melt two holes on the front of the fuse for the nose to attach to. Why not just glue the nose on? You want it to come off in a wreck to absorb moment and also to deflect the body away from a direct impact with the ground. If you glue the nose on it'll chunk foam in a wreck. Again, magnets are MUCH easier to use than tape, rubberbands or other methods of joining them. These two magnets in the photo are sunk far enough into the body so that the nose magnets can recess into the body foam so that the nose is flush, unlike the canopy body magnets which should be just flush with the foam. Don't sink those magnets further into the body than flush or you won't get a good grab to the canopy. The canopy/battery hatch will still sit flush with the body. With the body magnets for the nose sunk the ones glued to the nose side should be on the surface of the foam and not sunk into it. Or, you can just sink all of your magnets flush with the foam surface and do it that way. I just feel that having the nose magnets recess into the body foam grabs the nose and holds it a little better, though I never had a nose come off in flight when doing it the other way.
03-31-2009, 09:55 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Next we are going to mode the stock motor mount to hold a brushless outrunner. This is much easier than making custom mounts and having to mess with motor thrust angles. With the stock mount things should be pretty close, but to adjust the motor thrust angle you only need to loosen or tighten the front and back mount screws that go through the body. More on that later.
Cut or grind an aluminum disc or you can also grind the sides off a plastic bottle cap. This disc should be just small enough to fit inside the back ring of the motor mount and flush with the screw holes. Epoxy it in place. Now place your motor's mounting plate onto the back of the mount and mark the mounting holes. Drill them out and also drill out the center of the disc to prevent the motor's shaft from bumping or rubbing into the disc.
Use some bolts to hold the motor's mounting plate to the disc. If you don't want to mess with bolts and nuts you can get away with sheet metal screws. Make sure they thread into the aluminum or plastic mounting plate tightly. Dab them with some CA or epoxy so that they won't vibrate out. With all motor nuts or grub screws I tend to like to dab them with nail polish to prevent them vibrating loose.
Later will be adding a rocket nose cone or a spinner cone to the front of the Stryker's motor mount. This will enhance it's looks and also greatly enhance the wind flow over the mount.
Cut or grind an aluminum disc or you can also grind the sides off a plastic bottle cap. This disc should be just small enough to fit inside the back ring of the motor mount and flush with the screw holes. Epoxy it in place. Now place your motor's mounting plate onto the back of the mount and mark the mounting holes. Drill them out and also drill out the center of the disc to prevent the motor's shaft from bumping or rubbing into the disc.
Use some bolts to hold the motor's mounting plate to the disc. If you don't want to mess with bolts and nuts you can get away with sheet metal screws. Make sure they thread into the aluminum or plastic mounting plate tightly. Dab them with some CA or epoxy so that they won't vibrate out. With all motor nuts or grub screws I tend to like to dab them with nail polish to prevent them vibrating loose.
Later will be adding a rocket nose cone or a spinner cone to the front of the Stryker's motor mount. This will enhance it's looks and also greatly enhance the wind flow over the mount.
03-31-2009, 10:32 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Solder up your ESC to the motor wires. You can do this directly or use motor bullet plugs. I prefer these because it makes swapping wires to get the motor to run in the proper direction or to make it easy to unplug the motor or ESC to swap out. Remember that in a pusher configuration the prop size numbers should face the FRONT of the plane. Test fit the motor mount/motor in place with it plugged into the ESC. Note where the ESC is going to sit and melt out a chamber for it. Also melt a motor wire channel to the trailing edge of the plane. The motor wires are going to route under the F27 motor mount to hide them and clean up the looks.
Now measure how much ESC battery wire you need to reach into the battery chamber and solder up the wires and a male Deans ultra plug. Make sure you have enough length to reach your battery's plug (test fit the battery to measure) so that plugging/unplugging the battery to the ESC will be easy. I prefer the battery to mount so that it's wires are in the front of the plane and will wrap up and over the battery to the ESC plug. This way you can secure these wires to the battery with two velcro loops that are used to hold the battery in place (more on that later).
Next step is to tape over the motor mount area on the body both top and bottom of the plane. Also fold it over from top to belly of the plane. Although the carbon tubes crossing under the motor mount will really help to prevent foam damage during a wreck, the tape is extra insurance and will stiffen things up nicely. After this is done cut the tape out where the motor's wires will route through the body channel you melted.
Now we need to melt holes through the body for the servo wires and antenna to route through. The RX should sit right against the wall on the other side of the battery chamber. Test fit it in place and then heat up some metal and poke a hole down through the body for the antenna wire to route through. Now melt a channel to route into the stock antenna channel. Melt the servo wire holes where the channels end right at the carbon tube.
Now we get into servo selection. By far the most popular servo for Strykers is the Hitec HS81. Some people prefer to use the metal gear versions of these servos but I find the normal gears don't strip easily even in wrecks. An added advantage to these servos is that the servo wires will be the perfect length to route to the RX. These servos are also the perfect size to snug nicely into the servo chambers. These servos are about $16 to $21 a piece.
If you want to go cheaper I'd suggest using HXT900 servos that are about $4 a piece from Hobby City. By the way, Hobby City is the place to do all your shopping. They have a wide selection and the best prices in the industry. They are over seas but I find that using the slowest and cheapest shipping method will only cost about $12 and still get me my parts in under a week. The HXT900 servo is MUCH better than servos in it's class that cost $20 or more, including the HS55 Hitec servos. The HXT900 is stronger and less prone to stripping.
If you do use this or a similar smaller servo than the HS81 you'll need to secure it into the servo chamber with more than just tape. A trick I use is to wrap the servo body in masking tape, then put a little Gorilla glue in the area (well away from the horn side!) where the servo body will sit. The glue will foam up and form a nice snug servo chamber around the sides and bottom of the servo. If you need to remove the servo later for service simply slit the tape and pry out the servo.
Before installing the servos you need to power it up (make sure all your trims are set to zero on your TX!) and then remove are re-install the horns to the proper place based on how the servos will sit in the body. Most people prefer the servo horns at neutral to be slightly forward from straight up and down. This is also a good time to set up your TX for delta wing (elevon) control. Make sure the control surfaces are going to move in the proper direction for up/down left/right stick movement. To find out what the proper movement is for elevon control simply go to Parkzone's website and pull up the manual for the Stryker.
Install your servos and tape over them and the servo wire channels. Make sure you angle the tape so that it clears the finger holds on
the bellly.
Next place to tape is over the antenna's wire channel and stock body rod. Do the same for the other carbon body rod. If your antenna wire is longer than the channel you can let it hang off the side of the plane. I prefer to melt the channel into a loop back over the body somewhere in front of the elevon hinge tape so that the antenna doesn't hang off the side of the plane.
Now measure how much ESC battery wire you need to reach into the battery chamber and solder up the wires and a male Deans ultra plug. Make sure you have enough length to reach your battery's plug (test fit the battery to measure) so that plugging/unplugging the battery to the ESC will be easy. I prefer the battery to mount so that it's wires are in the front of the plane and will wrap up and over the battery to the ESC plug. This way you can secure these wires to the battery with two velcro loops that are used to hold the battery in place (more on that later).
Next step is to tape over the motor mount area on the body both top and bottom of the plane. Also fold it over from top to belly of the plane. Although the carbon tubes crossing under the motor mount will really help to prevent foam damage during a wreck, the tape is extra insurance and will stiffen things up nicely. After this is done cut the tape out where the motor's wires will route through the body channel you melted.
Now we need to melt holes through the body for the servo wires and antenna to route through. The RX should sit right against the wall on the other side of the battery chamber. Test fit it in place and then heat up some metal and poke a hole down through the body for the antenna wire to route through. Now melt a channel to route into the stock antenna channel. Melt the servo wire holes where the channels end right at the carbon tube.
Now we get into servo selection. By far the most popular servo for Strykers is the Hitec HS81. Some people prefer to use the metal gear versions of these servos but I find the normal gears don't strip easily even in wrecks. An added advantage to these servos is that the servo wires will be the perfect length to route to the RX. These servos are also the perfect size to snug nicely into the servo chambers. These servos are about $16 to $21 a piece.
If you want to go cheaper I'd suggest using HXT900 servos that are about $4 a piece from Hobby City. By the way, Hobby City is the place to do all your shopping. They have a wide selection and the best prices in the industry. They are over seas but I find that using the slowest and cheapest shipping method will only cost about $12 and still get me my parts in under a week. The HXT900 servo is MUCH better than servos in it's class that cost $20 or more, including the HS55 Hitec servos. The HXT900 is stronger and less prone to stripping.
If you do use this or a similar smaller servo than the HS81 you'll need to secure it into the servo chamber with more than just tape. A trick I use is to wrap the servo body in masking tape, then put a little Gorilla glue in the area (well away from the horn side!) where the servo body will sit. The glue will foam up and form a nice snug servo chamber around the sides and bottom of the servo. If you need to remove the servo later for service simply slit the tape and pry out the servo.
Before installing the servos you need to power it up (make sure all your trims are set to zero on your TX!) and then remove are re-install the horns to the proper place based on how the servos will sit in the body. Most people prefer the servo horns at neutral to be slightly forward from straight up and down. This is also a good time to set up your TX for delta wing (elevon) control. Make sure the control surfaces are going to move in the proper direction for up/down left/right stick movement. To find out what the proper movement is for elevon control simply go to Parkzone's website and pull up the manual for the Stryker.
Install your servos and tape over them and the servo wire channels. Make sure you angle the tape so that it clears the finger holds on
the bellly.
Next place to tape is over the antenna's wire channel and stock body rod. Do the same for the other carbon body rod. If your antenna wire is longer than the channel you can let it hang off the side of the plane. I prefer to melt the channel into a loop back over the body somewhere in front of the elevon hinge tape so that the antenna doesn't hang off the side of the plane.
03-31-2009, 10:44 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Next mod is to fill the front empty little chamber near the nose with Gorilla glue. This chamber is a weak point and will distort the body (often called "nose up" syndrome) upward in a hard nose in. The carbon tube will help prevent this but filling this chamber really helps as well. Put enough glue into the little rectangle shaped chamber at the bottom of the compartment, almost level with the top of it. Now put in some water and mix it up in there. That should be just enough glue to fill the entire chamber without foaming out over the body. Watch the glue until it's done foaming and if it's getting too high simply scoop some out. If it foams out and dries on you don't worry as you can cut it with a knife or peal the excess off.
Next thing I did was to tape over the nose to tail carbon tube. After that I taped over the leading edge of the wings to prevent dings and chunking should you hit something when landing. It helps to use three pieces of tape so that it will go over the bends easier to match the body contour. I'm not that skilled at taping so I couldn't avoid a few wrinkles. No big deal. Try to avoid going over other tape so that should you need to remove tape for a repair you won't have to pull other tape up as well to get at something.
Next step is to install the control rods. DO NOT use the stock control rods as they like to break where the little dimple goes through the horn hole. I wouldn't trust them at brushless speeds. Power up the servos so they center and then install and bend piano wire with a Z-Bender so you have the proper length, trying to get the elevon as close to neutral trim as possible. If you are a little off use your subtrims on the radio to get them right.
If you don't have a Z-Bender tool there is an easier way to make control rods. Buy some fully thread 2-56 (?) control rod and threaded clevises to fit them. Measure the control rod and cut, taking into account the length of the clevises as well. Make sure you've got extra rod length so that you can adjust the clevis to get things to neutral.
Next thing I did was to tape over the nose to tail carbon tube. After that I taped over the leading edge of the wings to prevent dings and chunking should you hit something when landing. It helps to use three pieces of tape so that it will go over the bends easier to match the body contour. I'm not that skilled at taping so I couldn't avoid a few wrinkles. No big deal. Try to avoid going over other tape so that should you need to remove tape for a repair you won't have to pull other tape up as well to get at something.
Next step is to install the control rods. DO NOT use the stock control rods as they like to break where the little dimple goes through the horn hole. I wouldn't trust them at brushless speeds. Power up the servos so they center and then install and bend piano wire with a Z-Bender so you have the proper length, trying to get the elevon as close to neutral trim as possible. If you are a little off use your subtrims on the radio to get them right.
If you don't have a Z-Bender tool there is an easier way to make control rods. Buy some fully thread 2-56 (?) control rod and threaded clevises to fit them. Measure the control rod and cut, taking into account the length of the clevises as well. Make sure you've got extra rod length so that you can adjust the clevis to get things to neutral.
03-31-2009, 10:46 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
A last two photos for now. We are now nearing completion of the plane. More pictures and progress later...
04-01-2009, 04:26 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Lord Hunter,
Nice job putting it all together in an easy to understand forum.
If I may, here's a tape I stumbled on that works quite well for leading edges on the wings. It's a plastic tarp repair tape, nearly clear, 2" x 36'roll. Not cheap thou, around $12.00.
It's a little thicker then packing tape, and just as sticky if not more so.
It's stretchable, so you can form it around bends without getting puckers in the tape. Also fingerprints don't show when it's laid down. You'll see em when you touch the tape, but they disappear when it's applied.
Seems to be pretty strong too, don't know for sure if it's the strength or the stretchability but it seems to hold up better the regular packing tape when something goes horribly wrong.
I started using it on some of my combat stuff and it sure seems to help keep the dings down. Kinda weird, foam that's covered with it will ding, then like "Christine" you'll look at the spot later and it's way less then it was originally. Almost like the tape is helping pull the foam back to it's original shape. Granted not perfect but a lot better looking then right after it's damaged.
Nice job putting it all together in an easy to understand forum.
If I may, here's a tape I stumbled on that works quite well for leading edges on the wings. It's a plastic tarp repair tape, nearly clear, 2" x 36'roll. Not cheap thou, around $12.00.
It's a little thicker then packing tape, and just as sticky if not more so.
It's stretchable, so you can form it around bends without getting puckers in the tape. Also fingerprints don't show when it's laid down. You'll see em when you touch the tape, but they disappear when it's applied.
Seems to be pretty strong too, don't know for sure if it's the strength or the stretchability but it seems to hold up better the regular packing tape when something goes horribly wrong.
I started using it on some of my combat stuff and it sure seems to help keep the dings down. Kinda weird, foam that's covered with it will ding, then like "Christine" you'll look at the spot later and it's way less then it was originally. Almost like the tape is helping pull the foam back to it's original shape. Granted not perfect but a lot better looking then right after it's damaged.
04-01-2009, 11:15 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Nice to hear from you GG. Good tip on the tape. I used to use clear packing tape for things like covering over the servo wires but Extreme strapping tape, while heavier, is so much more stronger and sticks better to the foam. When strength isn't a real concern for me on other builds I now use Tyvek tape to tape over foam. It's strength and traits are about the same as packing tape but it is formulated with a glue that is meant to stick to foam insulation in construction. If whatever tape I'm using is having a hard time sticking well to a surface I spray some 3M Super 77 spray glue onto the tape, let it air dry for 30 seconds or so, and then apply the tape to the surface. This spray glue won't eat foam if used this way. I'm finding that the Extreme strapping tape sticks well enough to Stryker foam so I didn't use any spray glue on it.
Back to the build steps with more photos...
Back to the build steps with more photos...
04-01-2009, 11:45 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Next photo is of 2-56 fully thread control rod, nylon clevises, and a bit of fuel tubing to keep the clevis from unclipping. This is the easiest way to set up control rods and offers quick manual adjustment without resorting to radio trims.
Servo and horn linkage placement is very important. While using the top hole on the servo and the bottom on the horn will give you the most throw, this is also the hardest on the servo due to leverage. You also use resolution or "feel" for stick movement regardless to how you set up dual rates or expo. I mostly use the top hole on the servo and the top or second down on the horn, then adjust my dual rates, expo (I like 20 to 25% to smooth the controls out some), and if you need to increase servo travel as well.
By the way, when installing the stock horns you'll probably not be able to see the second hole on the elevon as it's under some tape. Sit the horn about where it should go based on the hole you can see and then use a toothpick in the other hole to "feel" for it and press through. Might also mention that the elevons have a right/left side and a bottom/top. You'll notice a curved leading edge on one side the the elevon. This is the bottom.
Next photo is of a 4 channel GWS RX epoxied into place. Excuse it's looks as this RX has seen paint and numerous other planes in the past.
Next is of a rocket cone epoxied into the front of the motor mount to improve looks and airflow. Again, excuse it's looks and that of the ESC as well as they have both seen prior abuse. If you can't get your hands on a rocket nose cone you can use a spinner cone (Megatech sells one I have used in the past and either PVC or a film canister (lighter than PVC) glued into the mount. Refer to the original thread for pictures of this setup in the first page or two. I used clay to fill the slight air gap between the cone and the mount to streamline it a bit more.
Next photo velcro loops glued into the battery compartment to hold the battery in place. The ones I used are overkill but it's all I had on hand. Using velcro loops is one of the most important mods you can do to the Stryker. The battery WILL come out while stunting if you don't do this, and that's not fun. Been there and done that. Place the battery into the chamber with the velcro around it so you can position it in the best place to glue.
Next photo is of the plane being painted on top. I prefer a bright color on top and a dark one like black on the bottom to aid in figuring out the plane's orientation when flying. Stryker foam won't melt so you can use whatever paint you want. Color Place paint from Walmart is real cheap and works well. Try not to go too heavy with the paint in one coat or you risk the tape lifting some. Remember to tape over your RX so the servo pins don't get paint on them, which could lead to a bad connection.
In the next photo I am cutting down the height of the stock V-Stabs. This things are way bigger than they need to be. By cutting them down I think it improves the looks of the plane and also will keep them from flexing as much. The Stryker will roll and turn a bit quicker with this mod so make sure you lower your rates a bit.
Next step is to paint the nose, V-Stabs, and grey back cover if you like. I went with black on them.
I'll have some more pictures soon of the completed plane and such. I'll also be covering some motor, ESC, and battery options next.
If there are steps you are a bit confused on or need more info I'd suggest reading the first two of three pages of the original thread. I go into more detail on things such as the carbon tube dimensions I used on that build. You can also see how the wing tube was bent to the tips on that one and other such information that I may have not covered here. The thread gives a bit painful after the first few pages but there is good information on electronics, how to solder bullet plugs and deans ultras, and covers other basics for the newbie.
Servo and horn linkage placement is very important. While using the top hole on the servo and the bottom on the horn will give you the most throw, this is also the hardest on the servo due to leverage. You also use resolution or "feel" for stick movement regardless to how you set up dual rates or expo. I mostly use the top hole on the servo and the top or second down on the horn, then adjust my dual rates, expo (I like 20 to 25% to smooth the controls out some), and if you need to increase servo travel as well.
By the way, when installing the stock horns you'll probably not be able to see the second hole on the elevon as it's under some tape. Sit the horn about where it should go based on the hole you can see and then use a toothpick in the other hole to "feel" for it and press through. Might also mention that the elevons have a right/left side and a bottom/top. You'll notice a curved leading edge on one side the the elevon. This is the bottom.
Next photo is of a 4 channel GWS RX epoxied into place. Excuse it's looks as this RX has seen paint and numerous other planes in the past.
Next is of a rocket cone epoxied into the front of the motor mount to improve looks and airflow. Again, excuse it's looks and that of the ESC as well as they have both seen prior abuse. If you can't get your hands on a rocket nose cone you can use a spinner cone (Megatech sells one I have used in the past and either PVC or a film canister (lighter than PVC) glued into the mount. Refer to the original thread for pictures of this setup in the first page or two. I used clay to fill the slight air gap between the cone and the mount to streamline it a bit more.
Next photo velcro loops glued into the battery compartment to hold the battery in place. The ones I used are overkill but it's all I had on hand. Using velcro loops is one of the most important mods you can do to the Stryker. The battery WILL come out while stunting if you don't do this, and that's not fun. Been there and done that. Place the battery into the chamber with the velcro around it so you can position it in the best place to glue.
Next photo is of the plane being painted on top. I prefer a bright color on top and a dark one like black on the bottom to aid in figuring out the plane's orientation when flying. Stryker foam won't melt so you can use whatever paint you want. Color Place paint from Walmart is real cheap and works well. Try not to go too heavy with the paint in one coat or you risk the tape lifting some. Remember to tape over your RX so the servo pins don't get paint on them, which could lead to a bad connection.
In the next photo I am cutting down the height of the stock V-Stabs. This things are way bigger than they need to be. By cutting them down I think it improves the looks of the plane and also will keep them from flexing as much. The Stryker will roll and turn a bit quicker with this mod so make sure you lower your rates a bit.
Next step is to paint the nose, V-Stabs, and grey back cover if you like. I went with black on them.
I'll have some more pictures soon of the completed plane and such. I'll also be covering some motor, ESC, and battery options next.
If there are steps you are a bit confused on or need more info I'd suggest reading the first two of three pages of the original thread. I go into more detail on things such as the carbon tube dimensions I used on that build. You can also see how the wing tube was bent to the tips on that one and other such information that I may have not covered here. The thread gives a bit painful after the first few pages but there is good information on electronics, how to solder bullet plugs and deans ultras, and covers other basics for the newbie.
04-01-2009, 12:01 PM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
I guess at this point I'll start diving into motor, ESC, and battery options. There are many favored by Stryker owners. Some guys go for percieved quality and brand recognition. I prefer the good old dark side days when "build it as fast as possible as cheap as possible" was the main theme. Probably the first motor that became popular in F27 circles was the 2408-21, also called the "BP21". This is a great cheap little ($8) outrunner that is good for newbies to cut their teeth on. It's much faster than a F27 B Stryker but not crazy fast for a newbie to get used to. The APC 7x6 SF prop turned out to be the best all around for speed and torque on it. This motor will not push the Stryker to unlimited verticle unless you keep the plane very light.
The next motor that became popular was the 2409-12 for around $12. This motor is faster and has more torque than the BP21 and will easily throw the plane into unlimited verticle climbs on an APC 8x6E prop. This is over propping the motor and pushing it to a roughly 30 amp current draw so make sure you buy a 30 or 40 amp ESC for it and a lipo that can handle that kind of juice. The BP21, on the other hand, will draw roughly 16 amps on the 7x6SF prop. It's a good idea to still use at least a 30 amp ESC with that so upgrading motors in the future will not require a new ESC. These days I only buy 40 amp ESCs even for planes that draw much less in amps. This keeps it easy and cool on the ESC and allows for future motor upgrades.
(MORE LATER...Getting kicked off the computer)
The next motor that became popular was the 2409-12 for around $12. This motor is faster and has more torque than the BP21 and will easily throw the plane into unlimited verticle climbs on an APC 8x6E prop. This is over propping the motor and pushing it to a roughly 30 amp current draw so make sure you buy a 30 or 40 amp ESC for it and a lipo that can handle that kind of juice. The BP21, on the other hand, will draw roughly 16 amps on the 7x6SF prop. It's a good idea to still use at least a 30 amp ESC with that so upgrading motors in the future will not require a new ESC. These days I only buy 40 amp ESCs even for planes that draw much less in amps. This keeps it easy and cool on the ESC and allows for future motor upgrades.
(MORE LATER...Getting kicked off the computer)
04-01-2009, 06:15 PM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
I'll get back to covering the electronics later. Here's the final build steps and photos. I painted this plane yellow on top and black on the bottom. After painting it I installed the motor. Center the motor as best as possible and then use a toothpick to poke through the tape/body where the motor mount screws will go. Install the screws and try to keep them even with each other so the mount isn't pulled more to one side or the other. You'd be suprised at just how much you can adjust a motor's thrust angle by loosening or tightening the screws. Note that the longer screws go up front and the shorter ones at the trailing edge.
Plug the ESC back into the RX. and then glue the ESC down with a bit of epoxy, keeping the flat heat sink side on top to aid in cooling it. Now's a good time to fire the plane back up and double check that the motor is spinning the proper direction (Remember, prop numbers should face the front of the plane!) and that the servos are working properly.
Take your back cover and put some epoxy along it's bottom edges. Install your one piece canopy and note where the back cover should sit (with it's lip under the one piece cover). Put some weights onto it once you have it in the proper position and let it harden. I also cut off a bit of the back cover's plastic so it wouldn't blow the back magnet's contacts. This will hide it's self under the hatch.
Final picture of the completed plane. You may find that the vertical stabs are very tight to put on after painting but they'll fit. Don't glue them on as they will chunk foam if they try to come off in a wreck. They are plenty tight enough but if they get loose on you use a little tape folded over the bottom to snug them in. After several flights you may find that the bottom "loop" of the fin that goes under the belly may break. Don't worry about it. Cut them off and the fins will still stay on well.
Hope this build log helps newbies put this great plane together. All these mods are about the best I've found from the old Dark Side days with a few of my own thrown in. Tomorrow I'll cover the electronics and motor options further.
By the way, the final AUW (All up weight with battery installed) is 26 ounces. That's pretty good considering all the strength mods. I've built much heavier Strykers in the past when epoxy was used to fill the carbon tube channels, yet they still flew well thanks to all the lift a delta wing generates. You'll find that a heavier plane will handle wind much better.
Final thing to do is check your center of gravity. Put your fingers in the two circle indents that are inside the finger holds. With a 2200ma 20C 3 cell lipo this build is slightly nose heavy, just where I want it.
Plug the ESC back into the RX. and then glue the ESC down with a bit of epoxy, keeping the flat heat sink side on top to aid in cooling it. Now's a good time to fire the plane back up and double check that the motor is spinning the proper direction (Remember, prop numbers should face the front of the plane!) and that the servos are working properly.
Take your back cover and put some epoxy along it's bottom edges. Install your one piece canopy and note where the back cover should sit (with it's lip under the one piece cover). Put some weights onto it once you have it in the proper position and let it harden. I also cut off a bit of the back cover's plastic so it wouldn't blow the back magnet's contacts. This will hide it's self under the hatch.
Final picture of the completed plane. You may find that the vertical stabs are very tight to put on after painting but they'll fit. Don't glue them on as they will chunk foam if they try to come off in a wreck. They are plenty tight enough but if they get loose on you use a little tape folded over the bottom to snug them in. After several flights you may find that the bottom "loop" of the fin that goes under the belly may break. Don't worry about it. Cut them off and the fins will still stay on well.
Hope this build log helps newbies put this great plane together. All these mods are about the best I've found from the old Dark Side days with a few of my own thrown in. Tomorrow I'll cover the electronics and motor options further.
By the way, the final AUW (All up weight with battery installed) is 26 ounces. That's pretty good considering all the strength mods. I've built much heavier Strykers in the past when epoxy was used to fill the carbon tube channels, yet they still flew well thanks to all the lift a delta wing generates. You'll find that a heavier plane will handle wind much better.
Final thing to do is check your center of gravity. Put your fingers in the two circle indents that are inside the finger holds. With a 2200ma 20C 3 cell lipo this build is slightly nose heavy, just where I want it.
04-02-2009, 07:24 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Hiya CritterMan, nice to see your new build thread - its about time!!!! The pics are brilliant and I've now got the urge to order a new shell. I still have the cut-down Striker (SonofSatan) but its in the process of having a Himark 250W shoved up its Chuffer!!!!! I'll send pics as soom as. Byeee......
04-02-2009, 08:58 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Thanks. Building another Stryker is like visiting an old friend. It's one of the most durable and great flying planes I've ever owned. They build so fast and easy and the parts are cheap and on most store shelves. Might be a good time to cover the parts list...
Body with nose: $20
Elevons with hinges: $3
Vertical Stabs: $7
3 piece hatches: $7
F27C Motor Mount: $3 ($7?)
Launching and trimming the plane should be the next thing to cover. Get your flaps to neutral. Throw the plane fairly hard and at full throttle. After you let go of the plane CONTINUE to move your hand in a forward and downward motion to clear the prop! Fight the plane to get it very high before attempting to trim things out.
After it's been trimmed it's time to check motor thrust angles. With the planning flying full throttle and flat into any wind present kill the throttle fast. Notice if the nose lifts or dives. If it lifts you have too much down thrust in the motor (the prop end is too low). Loosen the back screws and tighten the front ones, pressing down on the mount as you do so. If the nose dives when you kill the throttle you have too much up thrust in the motor (the prop end is too high). Loosen the front screws and tighten down the back ones. Next step is to test the thrust angle with the motor off, flying flat, and then going to full throttle. If the nose drops you have too much down thrust. If it raises you have too much upthrust. Some times a thrust angle issue won't show up until trying it both ways above.
Some people prefer the plane to fly flat and level at full throttle. I prefer mine to climb at a slow but steady pace. After making all your adjustments and getting it flying right notice the position of your elevons. If they aren't at neutral you either need to adjust the motor thrust angle or the center of gravity by moving the battery forward or back. The motor might also be slightly off center left or right. Remember, anything but neutral trim will waste energy and speed.
When launching, I prefer to set my dual rates to low and always use that when flying near the ground. It's too easy to over react in high rates. Some people prefer high rates on launching or landing because it gives them more ability to correct the plane's flight.
It's one of the most durable and great flying planes I've ever owned. They build so fast and easy and the parts are cheap and on most store shelves. Might be a good time to cover the parts list...Body with nose: $20
Elevons with hinges: $3
Vertical Stabs: $7
3 piece hatches: $7
F27C Motor Mount: $3 ($7?)
Launching and trimming the plane should be the next thing to cover. Get your flaps to neutral. Throw the plane fairly hard and at full throttle. After you let go of the plane CONTINUE to move your hand in a forward and downward motion to clear the prop! Fight the plane to get it very high before attempting to trim things out.
After it's been trimmed it's time to check motor thrust angles. With the planning flying full throttle and flat into any wind present kill the throttle fast. Notice if the nose lifts or dives. If it lifts you have too much down thrust in the motor (the prop end is too low). Loosen the back screws and tighten the front ones, pressing down on the mount as you do so. If the nose dives when you kill the throttle you have too much up thrust in the motor (the prop end is too high). Loosen the front screws and tighten down the back ones. Next step is to test the thrust angle with the motor off, flying flat, and then going to full throttle. If the nose drops you have too much down thrust. If it raises you have too much upthrust. Some times a thrust angle issue won't show up until trying it both ways above.
Some people prefer the plane to fly flat and level at full throttle. I prefer mine to climb at a slow but steady pace. After making all your adjustments and getting it flying right notice the position of your elevons. If they aren't at neutral you either need to adjust the motor thrust angle or the center of gravity by moving the battery forward or back. The motor might also be slightly off center left or right. Remember, anything but neutral trim will waste energy and speed.
When launching, I prefer to set my dual rates to low and always use that when flying near the ground. It's too easy to over react in high rates. Some people prefer high rates on launching or landing because it gives them more ability to correct the plane's flight.
04-02-2009, 09:19 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Let's get back to covering electronics. Like I said before I prefer to do all my shopping at Hobby City overseas. They have the best prices around and a wide selection. Make sure you pick the slowest/cheapest shipping method and you should probably still get all your parts in a week or so.
Lipos: As with all my electronics I prefer cheap as possible. There are some really good deals out there provided you research what others have tested. No need these days to pay extra for a name in my opinion. My current preference are Rhino lipos in the 20 or 25C range sold by them in the 2200ma to 2350ma size range. This pack size is universal to all my park flyer needs so I don't need special battery sizes for certain planes. Even the 25C lipos cost under $30. Remember to buy lipos that can handle the amp draw of your motor. For example, 20C 2200ma means it can draw 44 amps continous. Do NOT rely on the burst raiting to make it easier on the pack. Most people go by the rule of not drawing more than 80% of the amp ability of the pack, so it's a good idea to buy a higher C raiting than you need. 25C packs can handle what most people will throw at them.
Chargers: The best deal these days is the Turnigy charger they sell for like $36. It's computerized and has features of chargers costing $150 or more. Two of it's nicest features are the storage mode which will put your lipo to a "sleep" voltage when you don't plan to use it for weeks. Throw it in the refrigerator to store it in the best sleeping condition. Another nice feature of this charger is the "Fast" charge mode. It doesn't charge the pack at a higher amp rate (Always only charge a pack at 1C, 2.2 amps for a 2200ma pack for example), but rather cuts out the very end of the charge when only a small current is used to top it off. This can cut as much as 30 minutes out of the charge which makes it great for field charging your next pack while flying. This will only cost you 300 or 400ma or so of flight capacity, something you won't really notice in flight time. If you want a charger without features look into the Hextronics charger for around $25. It will still balance a pack as it charges.
Speed Controls: I used to be a fan of the Tower Pro ESCs. They are cheap and work well. However, every few months they seem to come out with a change in programming features. Something that can lead to confusion in trying to find the right set of instructions to set it up. Remember to always set an ESC for lipos and to the proper cell count. I prefer the brake OFF as this allows the prop to swing out of the way on landing, resulting in less risk of breaking a prop or bending a motor shaft. My current preference for ESCs are the Super Simple ESCs (sold under the name Suppo by other companies). These all feature the same instructions to set them up and are even cheaper than the Tower Pros (about $12). These days I prefer only buying my ESCs in the 40 amp range. This covers the amp draw of any planes I fly and helps to keep the ESC cool. Again, make sure you buy something that can handle the amp draw of your motor. As a sidenote, a friend tested the efficiency of several ESCs and found these to be really good, very close to a Pentium ESC is efficiency. The Tower Pros didn't fair as well and that was the final straw for me in making the switch.
RXs: I get mine at the local hobby store. They sell GWS's for about $20. Remember you only need a 4 channel for a Stryker but for a few dollars more I buy a 6 channel to cover future planes I might throw it in. For a TX I prefer the JR 600SX Sport. It's a computerized TX, has numerous features (like Delta wing so you don't need a mixer), and is at a very low price for it's features at about $140. Other RXs that are cheap but good are the Coronas or Vampires, costing about $15 from Hobby City.
Motors: Many options out there. Here's a few of the favorites: The KA-450H sold by Don's RC (Hobby City has a similar motor but the k/V might be a bit different). This motor will really push the bird along with it's high k/v. While faster than the 2409-12, it doesn't have as much torque or verticle ability because of it's smaller prop. I'm currently using a Go Brushless triple stator motor with a custom wind (they sell these as kits with the magnets installed already) a friend uses. He's heavy into motor winding and this motor is the best he's found in both efficiency, speed, and power. It can push a Stryker along at probably 80 to 100 mph with the proper wind and prop selection. Refer to later in the original thread to see how he wound this GBX motor. For $30 you can get a motor that will out perform motors costing three times as much. In the old thread you can also find prop selections for the ka-450 and a few other motor options. Others have preferences for good but cheap motors to use on the Stryker. Refer to the old thread or visit the "Way Past The Limits" Dark Side thread in this forum and ask what people like. By the way, for the 2408-21 or 2409-12 you'll need a 3MM prop adaptor.
Lipos: As with all my electronics I prefer cheap as possible. There are some really good deals out there provided you research what others have tested. No need these days to pay extra for a name in my opinion. My current preference are Rhino lipos in the 20 or 25C range sold by them in the 2200ma to 2350ma size range. This pack size is universal to all my park flyer needs so I don't need special battery sizes for certain planes. Even the 25C lipos cost under $30. Remember to buy lipos that can handle the amp draw of your motor. For example, 20C 2200ma means it can draw 44 amps continous. Do NOT rely on the burst raiting to make it easier on the pack. Most people go by the rule of not drawing more than 80% of the amp ability of the pack, so it's a good idea to buy a higher C raiting than you need. 25C packs can handle what most people will throw at them.
Chargers: The best deal these days is the Turnigy charger they sell for like $36. It's computerized and has features of chargers costing $150 or more. Two of it's nicest features are the storage mode which will put your lipo to a "sleep" voltage when you don't plan to use it for weeks. Throw it in the refrigerator to store it in the best sleeping condition. Another nice feature of this charger is the "Fast" charge mode. It doesn't charge the pack at a higher amp rate (Always only charge a pack at 1C, 2.2 amps for a 2200ma pack for example), but rather cuts out the very end of the charge when only a small current is used to top it off. This can cut as much as 30 minutes out of the charge which makes it great for field charging your next pack while flying. This will only cost you 300 or 400ma or so of flight capacity, something you won't really notice in flight time. If you want a charger without features look into the Hextronics charger for around $25. It will still balance a pack as it charges.
Speed Controls: I used to be a fan of the Tower Pro ESCs. They are cheap and work well. However, every few months they seem to come out with a change in programming features. Something that can lead to confusion in trying to find the right set of instructions to set it up. Remember to always set an ESC for lipos and to the proper cell count. I prefer the brake OFF as this allows the prop to swing out of the way on landing, resulting in less risk of breaking a prop or bending a motor shaft. My current preference for ESCs are the Super Simple ESCs (sold under the name Suppo by other companies). These all feature the same instructions to set them up and are even cheaper than the Tower Pros (about $12). These days I prefer only buying my ESCs in the 40 amp range. This covers the amp draw of any planes I fly and helps to keep the ESC cool. Again, make sure you buy something that can handle the amp draw of your motor. As a sidenote, a friend tested the efficiency of several ESCs and found these to be really good, very close to a Pentium ESC is efficiency. The Tower Pros didn't fair as well and that was the final straw for me in making the switch.
RXs: I get mine at the local hobby store. They sell GWS's for about $20. Remember you only need a 4 channel for a Stryker but for a few dollars more I buy a 6 channel to cover future planes I might throw it in. For a TX I prefer the JR 600SX Sport. It's a computerized TX, has numerous features (like Delta wing so you don't need a mixer), and is at a very low price for it's features at about $140. Other RXs that are cheap but good are the Coronas or Vampires, costing about $15 from Hobby City.
Motors: Many options out there. Here's a few of the favorites: The KA-450H sold by Don's RC (Hobby City has a similar motor but the k/V might be a bit different). This motor will really push the bird along with it's high k/v. While faster than the 2409-12, it doesn't have as much torque or verticle ability because of it's smaller prop. I'm currently using a Go Brushless triple stator motor with a custom wind (they sell these as kits with the magnets installed already) a friend uses. He's heavy into motor winding and this motor is the best he's found in both efficiency, speed, and power. It can push a Stryker along at probably 80 to 100 mph with the proper wind and prop selection. Refer to later in the original thread to see how he wound this GBX motor. For $30 you can get a motor that will out perform motors costing three times as much. In the old thread you can also find prop selections for the ka-450 and a few other motor options. Others have preferences for good but cheap motors to use on the Stryker. Refer to the old thread or visit the "Way Past The Limits" Dark Side thread in this forum and ask what people like. By the way, for the 2408-21 or 2409-12 you'll need a 3MM prop adaptor.
04-03-2009, 03:06 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
critterhunter,
I love the color scheme of your Stryker above. Looks awesome.
I attach my stock elevons very similar to your method, but with a slight variation. Hope you like it.
As you know the stock parts some times are not manufactured so well and do not fit properly. So I either trim the hinge cutouts on the wing trailing edge (T.E.), OR I trim the elevon's hinge tabs...Either/Or.
After a few builds I realized that by placing the extreme tape on top of the hinge tabs, instead of below them, it allows me to align the elevon a little better.
A note of warning though: keeping the elevon is place during the tape job needs a third hand...at least it feels like it. I place a couple of small pieces of packing tape on the end hinges(temporarily) and then run the new tape starting from middle outwards, then remove the packing tape from end hinge tabs because extreme tape now holds them, and finish laying the tape down....A 1 minute help from a friend sure helps and no temporary packing tape or other method will be needed to keep the elevon in place...I guess a drop of CA on each hinge tab could have worked too...LOL...
I install the elevon against the T.E. with no gap and it normally does not need any hinge tape and there will be no flutter. I guess at higher speeds hinge tape might not be a bad idea. Then again at very high speed the stock elevons should not be used anyway.
________________________________
***Before I forget, Part 8 of Dark side thread will be started in the next couple/few weeks or so, whenever Chippedprop decides is the right time. We'll send you a link.
It will be packed with detailed photos, in flight data, videos and how to's, radar numbers and Doppler measurements and more.
Hope to see you drop in occasionally.
You'll see that it will include mild to wild and will cover everything to aid beginners and expert folks too, from easily affordable setups to high end setups...whatever the folks ask for.
Some folks will be directed here.
As always; Have fun.
Later,
Gryphon
I love the color scheme of your Stryker above. Looks awesome.
I attach my stock elevons very similar to your method, but with a slight variation. Hope you like it.
As you know the stock parts some times are not manufactured so well and do not fit properly. So I either trim the hinge cutouts on the wing trailing edge (T.E.), OR I trim the elevon's hinge tabs...Either/Or.
After a few builds I realized that by placing the extreme tape on top of the hinge tabs, instead of below them, it allows me to align the elevon a little better.
A note of warning though: keeping the elevon is place during the tape job needs a third hand...at least it feels like it. I place a couple of small pieces of packing tape on the end hinges(temporarily) and then run the new tape starting from middle outwards, then remove the packing tape from end hinge tabs because extreme tape now holds them, and finish laying the tape down....A 1 minute help from a friend sure helps and no temporary packing tape or other method will be needed to keep the elevon in place...I guess a drop of CA on each hinge tab could have worked too...LOL...
I install the elevon against the T.E. with no gap and it normally does not need any hinge tape and there will be no flutter. I guess at higher speeds hinge tape might not be a bad idea. Then again at very high speed the stock elevons should not be used anyway.
________________________________
***Before I forget, Part 8 of Dark side thread will be started in the next couple/few weeks or so, whenever Chippedprop decides is the right time. We'll send you a link.
It will be packed with detailed photos, in flight data, videos and how to's, radar numbers and Doppler measurements and more.
Hope to see you drop in occasionally.
You'll see that it will include mild to wild and will cover everything to aid beginners and expert folks too, from easily affordable setups to high end setups...whatever the folks ask for.
Some folks will be directed here.
As always; Have fun.
Later,
Gryphon
04-03-2009, 06:12 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Hiya guys - my thoughts etc: I use the Zagi style of using tape to close the gap at trailing edge and elevon...it works and the elevon is balsa (always). I also use a different plastic motor mount thats one piece, stronger and use packing to get the thrust line right.
04-03-2009, 06:14 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Motors: on my ultra lightweight bird its a cheapo E-Max 2805, but the next new one will use a KD 250W job. Currently finishing a rebuild of my old Zagi with a Himar 2816 250W+ job etc.
04-03-2009, 08:44 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Good tips. Thanks for sharing them. The Stryker had it's maiden yesterday. It flew very well and really moves along with the Go Brushless triple stator motor. Unlimited verticle. While it's slower due to the draggy airframe than my streamlined Stryker was on this motor, it is still plenty fast enough for me.
I'd like to get some more input on the various motors people are using. I'll probably post some EDF/motor combos that should work good as well and are cheap.
I'd like to get some more input on the various motors people are using. I'll probably post some EDF/motor combos that should work good as well and are cheap.
04-03-2009, 10:22 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Here's a good and cheap EDF combo that should work well on the Stryker, though I haven't flown it on one yet so I can't give a performance report. A Hobby City 2.5" EDF and Turnigy 2835 3900 k/v motor. On a 3cell 2200 Li-Po it should produce about 700g static thrust with minimal heat production (<30A peak). That's just a quick look up I did on the net, but for some reason I thought it would amp the thing out to about 39 amps or so. Have to check. I know the thing has gobs of power on static runs.
EDF:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...e_2.5inch_64mm
MOTOR:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4200
This motor can also be used with the 2.68 EDF, though I don't think it produces as much thrust as the 2.5", which is of better quality. If you read the reviews below the motor you'll also see that this inrunner is popular among some Stryker owners by it's self. For $17 for the motor or under $20 for either EDF these should make some good options for powering a Stryker on a 3 cell.
Another option for the 2.68" EDF to push it to it's max thrust on a 3 cell is the Turnigy E500 4000 k/v. Read the reviews below it. This motor should produce more thrust than the 2835 Inrunner on this EDF, though at the cost of more amps which is listed in the reviews. I'm wondering if this motor could be used on the 2.5" EDF and how many amps it will pull on a 3 cell. If it will fit and works it should produce more thrust than the 2.68" based on the fact that the 2.5" is a better design and produces more thrust on the 2835 3900 k/v Turnigy inrunner than the 2.68" does.
At the time that I researched these two EDFs, which I own one of each but haven't flown them on a successful platform yet, they were the two best sizes for best thrust on a 3 cell. Hobby City has since released several other EDFs in sizes near them. I'm not sure if something better is available now in a different EDF size and motor on a 3 cell, so you might want to research them a bit.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6316
Here's a link to the ka-450H motor sold by Don's RC. Check out the various k/v versions he offers. Also refer to the old thread for more info on various props and expected speeds.
http://www.donsrc.com/cart/index.php...d&productId=65
Here's a link to the 2409-12T that I've used on the Stryker in the past with an 8x6 APC E prop.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=2046
I'd suggest buying the "D" version of this motor. It's of better quality and can handle a little more in the way of watts because of it's design.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=4899
Here's the 2408-21 outrunner that was very popular in the early Stryker days. I'd suggest this motor for a newbie to learn on. The speed will be tamer, though fast. Again, it won't do unlimited vertical like the 2409-12 or other motors.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4321
Here's a re-post from the original thread on another motor option that Hagar likes. He's an old hand at this plane and his opinion can be trusted. Read the reviews below the motor for more Stryker performance reports.
Here's about the best value in a lipo charger these days that I discussed earlier...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...lancer/Charger
Here's the lipo I like these days. Remember to make sure it can handle the amp draw of your motor...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...5C_Lipoly_Pack
Here's a slightly bigger version of this battery that should also work well on a Stryker...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...5C_Lipoly_Pack
My current preference for a good quality cheap ESC is the Super Simple 40 amp for $12. As I said, a friend tested the efficiency and thrust of numerous speed controls and these (also called "Suppos") were very close to the best...Pentium ESCs sold by Don's RC. Note that the Pentiums sold by Hobby City are NOT as good of quality as Don's that he compared the Super Simple to. I was amazed by the difference in efficiency and thrust produced of various ESCs he tested.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...Simple_40A_ESC
Here's a link to his ESC test thread...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839924
EDF:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...e_2.5inch_64mm
MOTOR:
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4200
This motor can also be used with the 2.68 EDF, though I don't think it produces as much thrust as the 2.5", which is of better quality. If you read the reviews below the motor you'll also see that this inrunner is popular among some Stryker owners by it's self. For $17 for the motor or under $20 for either EDF these should make some good options for powering a Stryker on a 3 cell.
Another option for the 2.68" EDF to push it to it's max thrust on a 3 cell is the Turnigy E500 4000 k/v. Read the reviews below it. This motor should produce more thrust than the 2835 Inrunner on this EDF, though at the cost of more amps which is listed in the reviews. I'm wondering if this motor could be used on the 2.5" EDF and how many amps it will pull on a 3 cell. If it will fit and works it should produce more thrust than the 2.68" based on the fact that the 2.5" is a better design and produces more thrust on the 2835 3900 k/v Turnigy inrunner than the 2.68" does.
At the time that I researched these two EDFs, which I own one of each but haven't flown them on a successful platform yet, they were the two best sizes for best thrust on a 3 cell. Hobby City has since released several other EDFs in sizes near them. I'm not sure if something better is available now in a different EDF size and motor on a 3 cell, so you might want to research them a bit.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6316
Here's a link to the ka-450H motor sold by Don's RC. Check out the various k/v versions he offers. Also refer to the old thread for more info on various props and expected speeds.
http://www.donsrc.com/cart/index.php...d&productId=65
Here's a link to the 2409-12T that I've used on the Stryker in the past with an 8x6 APC E prop.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=2046
I'd suggest buying the "D" version of this motor. It's of better quality and can handle a little more in the way of watts because of it's design.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=4899
Here's the 2408-21 outrunner that was very popular in the early Stryker days. I'd suggest this motor for a newbie to learn on. The speed will be tamer, though fast. Again, it won't do unlimited vertical like the 2409-12 or other motors.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=4321
Here's a re-post from the original thread on another motor option that Hagar likes. He's an old hand at this plane and his opinion can be trusted. Read the reviews below the motor for more Stryker performance reports.
ORIGINAL: Hagar69
Hi Guys,
Have not been here for a long time, been busy messing with other planes and a helicopter.
But my Stryker is still one of my favorite planes, and it is now more fun than ever thanks to this great motor:
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3885]Cheap 1700 kV motor[/link]
With a good quality 3S pack (25C 2100) it pulls over 40 amps using an 8x6 prop. It will leave the 12T back in the dust
And it can also handle 4S if propped down, 6x4 is safe. I have also done 7x5 on 4S, but things starts getting hot then.
A great way to mount this motor on the Stryker is to get rid of the original mount, and glue a stick in it instead.
Then use this stick-mount:
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5135]GWS Stick mount[/link]
Picture of my beat up Stryker is hopefully showing up below.
I have also cut off 5 cm (2 inches) of each wingtip on mine, I did it mostly because one wintip was damaged. But this improved the roll rate substantially. And I also believe it reduces drag. My vertical fins are also about 2 inches lower than stock and made of balsa. This too helps improve roll rate.
The above modifications have made the Stryker very agile, it is not longer a beginners plane (if it ever was).
Hagar
Hi Guys,
Have not been here for a long time, been busy messing with other planes and a helicopter.
But my Stryker is still one of my favorite planes, and it is now more fun than ever thanks to this great motor:
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=3885]Cheap 1700 kV motor[/link]
With a good quality 3S pack (25C 2100) it pulls over 40 amps using an 8x6 prop. It will leave the 12T back in the dust
And it can also handle 4S if propped down, 6x4 is safe. I have also done 7x5 on 4S, but things starts getting hot then.
A great way to mount this motor on the Stryker is to get rid of the original mount, and glue a stick in it instead.
Then use this stick-mount:
[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=5135]GWS Stick mount[/link]
Picture of my beat up Stryker is hopefully showing up below.
I have also cut off 5 cm (2 inches) of each wingtip on mine, I did it mostly because one wintip was damaged. But this improved the roll rate substantially. And I also believe it reduces drag. My vertical fins are also about 2 inches lower than stock and made of balsa. This too helps improve roll rate.
The above modifications have made the Stryker very agile, it is not longer a beginners plane (if it ever was).
Hagar
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...lancer/Charger
Here's the lipo I like these days. Remember to make sure it can handle the amp draw of your motor...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...5C_Lipoly_Pack
Here's a slightly bigger version of this battery that should also work well on a Stryker...
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...5C_Lipoly_Pack
My current preference for a good quality cheap ESC is the Super Simple 40 amp for $12. As I said, a friend tested the efficiency and thrust of numerous speed controls and these (also called "Suppos") were very close to the best...Pentium ESCs sold by Don's RC. Note that the Pentiums sold by Hobby City are NOT as good of quality as Don's that he compared the Super Simple to. I was amazed by the difference in efficiency and thrust produced of various ESCs he tested.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...Simple_40A_ESC
Here's a link to his ESC test thread...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=839924
04-03-2009, 03:24 PM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Here's the specs on the Go Brushless (GBX) Triple Stator motor with custom wind that a friend perfected. It's a WYE, 3 strands 24 gauge 200 degree C wire (you'll have to get this wire VERY hot to short it!). Max amps is about 36 (can handle more, this is just the safe zone). K/V 2150. Io 1.9 amps.
On a HXT 3 cell 2250ma 20C lipo and 7x5 APC E prop static run it produced 34 amps and 36 ounces of thrust. On a 6x5.5 APC E it produced 28 amps and 27 ounces of thrust. On the same prop a Long Max 20C 2200ma 3 cell pack produced 33 amps and 33 ounces of thrust. This wind will range 80 to 90+% efficent depending on the prop used.
This motor can be bought with the magnets pre-installed or loose. We bought it pre-installed in the standard configuration. Keep in mind that you can go to an even faster wind but I wanted to insure really good unlimited V on the prior heavy bird (lots of old epoxy in it from my pre-gorilla glue days) it was on. As it is it's still wicked fast and has real good unlimited verticle.
A few more tests from the thrust stand. I don't think this was from my motor but rather an identical GBX with an identical wind. Don't know what brand 3 cell lipos were used.
APC: 7x5E - 36 Amps, 37.5 oz thrust - 82% electrical efficiency
APC 6X5.5E - 31 Amps 20 oz thrust - 85% electrical efficiency
Motor can be found here. If you want the magnets loose for a custom configuration you must Email them, but as they are it's one fast/powerful motor that is very efficient and moderate on the amp draw. We haven't found anything better yet, factory built or custom.
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...dshow&ref=GBx3
Here's an excellent thread my friend wrote on winding motors. I think it also contains information on rewinding this motor and ka-450H from Don's RC that is pretty popular among Stryker owners.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=tutorial
Another blurb about it from the old thread...
I've got some early information on the wind I'm going to use for the Go Brushless Triple Stator Kit. My friend who turned me on to this motor and his custom winds for it did some calculations for this particular wind. As said, I compromised a little on speed to get the thrust close to 30 ounces so the old heavy Stryker it was on could do unlimited V. I still expect it to be wicked fast, and will have more specs posted soon...
Efficiency of 77% at 30 Amps. Peak efficiency at 19 Amps (79% efficient). 7X6 prop probably will give best performance. It is a 5T WYE motor (1800 kv). Photos and more info/specs sooner or later...
Another blurb on it from the old thread...
He claims about 90% efficiency, though I don't know if he was refering to the prop on it listed below...
Motor Stats:
3 stator Gobrushless GBX
4 turn quad wind WYE
2150 kv
Maximum Wattage: 450
Prop 7X6 Master Airscrew (cut down to 6"
Thrust: 32 oz
Amps: 29
Wattage my plane draws: 310
Keep in mind that he doesn't like to overprop his motors like I do, so I'm sure it's capable of much more. He was playing with different prop sizes one day on it and I think he might have settled on one with even more speed and still great verticle. It's pretty impressive.
On a HXT 3 cell 2250ma 20C lipo and 7x5 APC E prop static run it produced 34 amps and 36 ounces of thrust. On a 6x5.5 APC E it produced 28 amps and 27 ounces of thrust. On the same prop a Long Max 20C 2200ma 3 cell pack produced 33 amps and 33 ounces of thrust. This wind will range 80 to 90+% efficent depending on the prop used.
This motor can be bought with the magnets pre-installed or loose. We bought it pre-installed in the standard configuration. Keep in mind that you can go to an even faster wind but I wanted to insure really good unlimited V on the prior heavy bird (lots of old epoxy in it from my pre-gorilla glue days) it was on. As it is it's still wicked fast and has real good unlimited verticle.
A few more tests from the thrust stand. I don't think this was from my motor but rather an identical GBX with an identical wind. Don't know what brand 3 cell lipos were used.
APC: 7x5E - 36 Amps, 37.5 oz thrust - 82% electrical efficiency
APC 6X5.5E - 31 Amps 20 oz thrust - 85% electrical efficiency
Motor can be found here. If you want the magnets loose for a custom configuration you must Email them, but as they are it's one fast/powerful motor that is very efficient and moderate on the amp draw. We haven't found anything better yet, factory built or custom.
http://www.gobrushless.com/shop/inde...dshow&ref=GBx3
Here's an excellent thread my friend wrote on winding motors. I think it also contains information on rewinding this motor and ka-450H from Don's RC that is pretty popular among Stryker owners.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...light=tutorial
Another blurb about it from the old thread...
I've got some early information on the wind I'm going to use for the Go Brushless Triple Stator Kit. My friend who turned me on to this motor and his custom winds for it did some calculations for this particular wind. As said, I compromised a little on speed to get the thrust close to 30 ounces so the old heavy Stryker it was on could do unlimited V. I still expect it to be wicked fast, and will have more specs posted soon...
Efficiency of 77% at 30 Amps. Peak efficiency at 19 Amps (79% efficient). 7X6 prop probably will give best performance. It is a 5T WYE motor (1800 kv). Photos and more info/specs sooner or later...
Another blurb on it from the old thread...
He claims about 90% efficiency, though I don't know if he was refering to the prop on it listed below...
Motor Stats:
3 stator Gobrushless GBX
4 turn quad wind WYE
2150 kv
Maximum Wattage: 450
Prop 7X6 Master Airscrew (cut down to 6"
Thrust: 32 oz
Amps: 29
Wattage my plane draws: 310
Keep in mind that he doesn't like to overprop his motors like I do, so I'm sure it's capable of much more. He was playing with different prop sizes one day on it and I think he might have settled on one with even more speed and still great verticle. It's pretty impressive.
04-04-2009, 09:55 AM
#21
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Now that the Stryker has been trimmed and the rates adjusted I'll post the pecentages of low/high rates as well as Expo so people will have a good starting point to maiden a plane. I prefer my low rates very tame for launching/landing and low level flying to avoid over correcting. My high rates are adjusted to do tight rolls and loops.
If anybody has a motor they like to use on a Stryker that hasn't been listed yet please feel free to post it and any information you can provided, such as amp draw, prop size, and a performance report. You might also relate how it compares in flight to any other motors you've flown on a Stryker.
I'm trying to make this thread the "one stop" resource center for mod tips and electronics used, mainly in the "build it cheap" theme of the old Dark Side days. The current "Way Past The Limits" Dark Side thread is alive and well and a good resource to see new mods and motors tested. I've had many a newbie in the past ask me the same questions over and over again on build methods or suggested electronics and that is why I tried to put together a clear and illustrated resource that they can be directed to. It's hard to wade through all the old threads looking for certain mods or other info.
If you go to Hobby City's website and put "Stryker" into the search feature you come up with other motors and electronics people have used on a Stryker. You can read the reviews to help you decide on a purchase.
If anybody has a motor they like to use on a Stryker that hasn't been listed yet please feel free to post it and any information you can provided, such as amp draw, prop size, and a performance report. You might also relate how it compares in flight to any other motors you've flown on a Stryker.
I'm trying to make this thread the "one stop" resource center for mod tips and electronics used, mainly in the "build it cheap" theme of the old Dark Side days. The current "Way Past The Limits" Dark Side thread is alive and well and a good resource to see new mods and motors tested. I've had many a newbie in the past ask me the same questions over and over again on build methods or suggested electronics and that is why I tried to put together a clear and illustrated resource that they can be directed to. It's hard to wade through all the old threads looking for certain mods or other info.
If you go to Hobby City's website and put "Stryker" into the search feature you come up with other motors and electronics people have used on a Stryker. You can read the reviews to help you decide on a purchase.
04-04-2009, 04:36 PM
#22
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Question for those with a hopped up Stryker. Here is my problem. When I attach a 4S and go WOT I notice that the entire motor mount flex's. I'm using the Stryker C motor mount and underneath the mount I have a carbon spar running up the length of the wing. Anyone else noticing this? What have you done to address this issue? I don't have the plane glassed or anything. I'm thinking of just glassing the rear engine mount area.
Just a note if your serious about performance and don't mind spending a little more money and not waiting 3-4 weeks on delivery from Hobby City. I woulndt but a Hobby King motor. I have have several and although there a great value there not the best performing. Check out ARC motors. If you want better then you could look at MEGA, Scorpion, and NU motors are all much better performing motors but are x2 x3 times the price of a Hobby King. The setup I have on mine right now is about to rip the entire motor mount off if that's any indication. For $60 go out and buy an ARC motor and you wont be dissapointed. On the other hand all my batteries are Zippy (Hobby King) Best value anywhere on batteries.
ARC 28-47-2 MOTOR
80AMP ESC
2600mAmp 4S 20c
7x6 Graupner prop.
Just a note if your serious about performance and don't mind spending a little more money and not waiting 3-4 weeks on delivery from Hobby City. I woulndt but a Hobby King motor. I have have several and although there a great value there not the best performing. Check out ARC motors. If you want better then you could look at MEGA, Scorpion, and NU motors are all much better performing motors but are x2 x3 times the price of a Hobby King. The setup I have on mine right now is about to rip the entire motor mount off if that's any indication. For $60 go out and buy an ARC motor and you wont be dissapointed. On the other hand all my batteries are Zippy (Hobby King) Best value anywhere on batteries.
ARC 28-47-2 MOTOR
80AMP ESC
2600mAmp 4S 20c
7x6 Graupner prop.
04-05-2009, 08:48 AM
#23
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Fiddy$ - welcome!!! I ditched the stock 'B' and 'C' mounts a long tie ago!! I now use these bolted to a a pice of thin ply and epoxied/bolted to the fuse - far stronger and take a large number of different motors - hope this help!!!
http://www.b*********.co.uk/?page=sh...ditem&item=164
http://www.b*********.co.uk/?page=sh...ditem&item=164
04-05-2009, 10:34 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Thanks,
That does look like a good alternative. I'll have to check my LHS and see if they have anything like that. I may also try and get two pieces of thin ply on both top and bottom and bolt them in.
Anyone glass thier Stryker with out cloth? Meaning has anyone taken epox mix added alcohol to cut it thinner and just apply it over the Stryker for additional strength? I'm wondering how this would out?
That does look like a good alternative. I'll have to check my LHS and see if they have anything like that. I may also try and get two pieces of thin ply on both top and bottom and bolt them in.
Anyone glass thier Stryker with out cloth? Meaning has anyone taken epox mix added alcohol to cut it thinner and just apply it over the Stryker for additional strength? I'm wondering how this would out?
ORIGINAL: tam popo
Fiddy$ - welcome!!! I ditched the stock 'B' and 'C' mounts a long tie ago!! I now use these bolted to a a pice of thin ply and epoxied/bolted to the fuse - far stronger and take a large number of different motors - hope this help!!!
http://www.b*********.co.uk/?page=sh...ditem&item=164
Fiddy$ - welcome!!! I ditched the stock 'B' and 'C' mounts a long tie ago!! I now use these bolted to a a pice of thin ply and epoxied/bolted to the fuse - far stronger and take a large number of different motors - hope this help!!!
http://www.b*********.co.uk/?page=sh...ditem&item=164
04-06-2009, 06:02 AM
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RE: Stryker Mods From The Darkside Part 2 (Bullet Proof A Stryker)
Critter and guys - small point: HXT servos are stronger because of one difference - the gears are ceramic material and not plastic, so less stripping as you mentioned, especially when its Hot outside (never a problem in Scotland!!). My choice always.....