caseyjholmes

has anybody found a good way to use the ailerons on a slow stick yet? I think a full house slow stick would be cool. I might try it after I give it a few flies first =>
casey

Jason Beach

My Feedback: (4)

It has been done several times with mixed results. Most of the time the ailerons didn't work very well due to the characteristics of the under-cambered wing.

However, I did read about someone who made the wing a flat bottomed instead of under-cambered. I believe the ailerons worked rather well on that plane.

Jason

caseyjholmes

just took the first flight on my slow stick today. Nice plane! after I switched the rudder over to the right stick, I was flying fine! I never actually crashed, and from the landing practice with my a-10, I landed this puppy first try! I dig the SS! after a few more flights, I think I'll try adding the ailerons without a flatbottom, as I wouldn't even know where to begain on one.
Now,
1 servo or two for the ailerons? obviously my first choice would be 1, and I think I have a linkage/torque rod design.........
-casey

Jason Beach

My Feedback: (4)

Congrats on your successful flight.
Modifying the SS to be a flat bottom shouldn't be too hard. A few balsa strips and some covering should be all that's needed.

Keep us updated.

bugleboy

My Feedback: (8)

I hate to sound negative, but I think the mod will be a waste of time. I know a lot of others who have tried with only marginal (if any) success in increasing manuverablity.

I hope it works for you, though. Make sure you report back if you give it a try.

Jason

caseyjholmes

well, after burning out my 6 cell 400mah from charging at too high of an amperage, I went out and picked up the GWS 6 cell 600 mah pack. It's a bit bigger so I had to cut off the battery holder tabs where they fold over 90 deg.
I love how this thing flies! looks good flying too. I think if I tried to add the ailerons and they didn't work, all I would have to do is put some packaging tape back on the aileron seams to "undo my damage". It seems like adding them would almost have to give some aileron effect, and if so, thats good enough for me! I want to practice on a full house plane, as I'd like to go aerobatic next and need to have the feel of rudder, elevator, ailerons and throttle. I saw some cool 30" span balsa 3D park flyer kits that I would like to be good enough to fly at the LHS. So I figure, why not try adding ailerons and see if they work, if not-it's totally tapable back to normal. -If it does work, I probably have the cheepest full house trainer available =>
I think I'm gonna try it. if it doesn't work with just foam, I'll try a balsa flatbottom. BTW, is there anywhere to get a replacement SS wing? Just in case =>
thanks for all the input. I'll report what happens sometime soon.
-casey

Jason Beach

My Feedback: (4)

You should be able to get a replacement wing at Horizon Hobby.

A10FLYR

My Feedback: (1)

I think you will have much better luck with ailerons if you take out the diehedral. My Balsa USA Sopwith Pup has undercambered wings as do my A-10s and they respond well to aileron input. You should have a good roll rate with the size of those barn doors! In fact, my nephew has a broken SS so I think I'll get his wing and try it myself!!

PHIL I.

[:@]
Thinking back....The best working setup was 0 dyhedral (sp?)-flat bottom wing- full length ailerons. The plane was not a real good upside down flyer and cause of the large wing, it didn't have a fast roll. The large wing also made it twitchy in any wind. The extra weight of the servo and a larger battery helped the wind and made slghtly longer flying time. The next project was a more powerfull motor but don't remember how it worked. Maybe you can find a setup that will work. One guy even wanted to take 2-4 in. out of the wing.....

GOOD LUCK....
PHIL I.

caseyjholmes

ok,
I took the SS up to oregon with me last weekend from Cali. we flew it in a baseball diamond at near-dusk and had a blast. I showed my friend what the controlls were and how to land, and he had an almost perfect first ever flight on R/C planes except for a stall or two at a high enough altitude to recover from. He even landed it smoother than I did the first time! I'm convinced this is the best ever plane to stert with now! after watching my friend fly it for his first ever RC flight!

So I'm going to do the aileron mod now.... right now that is. I have the razor blade in my hand and I'm staring at the wing => I bent some sweet torque rods out of some steel rod I picked up at my LHS and I'll use a cirrus 0.9 I have layin' here above the COG on the wing to try and steer them. I'll keep the dihedral for the first flight and see what happens. after all, I'll not trying to go inverted or anything... just looking for a sweet full house parky => If I don't get enough response, I'll flatten out the wing and brace it with some carbon I have chillin'. I picked up some foam CA just in case something goes wrong too =>
I'll post a picture when I finish later today!
-Casey

caseyjholmes

Heres some pictures! I added the ailerons and torque rods! all I have to do is add the extra servo someewhere and fly it! any ideas as to where to add the servo?
-casey

caseyjholmes

Heres a picture of the wing mounted with the third servo under the COG on the stick and the Linkages to the torque rods. the servo was mounted under the CoG with double sided tape and a zip-tie. It's a bit windy today to test it out, but I'll try it first thing in the morning when the dense fog is out tomorrow. I'll post how it goes! I now have a full house 4 channel slow stick! (ailerons, elevator,rudder and throttle)
-casey

cabanestrut2002

those ailerons arent very big, for any kind of effect i would make them full span and half as wide again. nice setup though. dont forget the servo screw

caseyjholmes

funny you should say not to forget the servo screw, as i did! I got lucky and it didn't pop off though, as the cirrus horns have a tight fit =>

So yeah, IT FLEW!
heres my setup and flight charicteristics:
setup:
GWS Slow Stick with aileron modified wing. balnce at 5" front plastic / 4 1/4" for wing
metal torque rods and shrinktube rod hinges; Ailerons taped for hinge
JR quattro radio with 1/2oz. Micro 4ch reciever
2 JR micro servos (came with radio, can't see model number at the moment) for elevator and rudder
1 cirrus 09 micro servo mounted just behind the battery for the aileron mod.
1 GWS 6 cell 600 mah battery (too big for battery mounts, had to cut them)
GWS ICS 100 esc (I know I know)
regular prop and most common SS gearbox that came with kit (same prop still =>)
SS built WITH tail seperator plastic piece and with tail control surface scrws for removal. (so built heavy)
left stick; thro, rudd Right stick; Ele, Ail

Heres how the flight went:
When I first arrived at the field (in the dense foggy morning and dewy grass =>)
I noticed that my aileron mod had been slightly off, since I was looking at the plane from the bottom of the wing most of the time, I had the ailerons both a tad bit up. So I bent the homeade aileron controll rods to even out the ailerons to the wing surface. after doing so, I gave it a quick controll surface and alignment check, set 'er on the grass and slammed the throttle stick all the way up. off the plane went down the runway for a bit longer than usual (partly because I wanted to give it more speed for takeoff, and partly because it was a bit heavier than normal) then swooped right up into the air as soon as I gave it back right stick. I decided to wait untill I had it up a bit to play with the ailerons, and test the added weight against the normal flying conditions without using the ailerons. so I gave it a circle or two at about 30' up and then took it to 50'. still climbing with the added torque rod and servo weight! Now it was time for aileron input. I applied some right aileron from level flight and tip the plane a bit, enough to pull back on the ele and get a smooth 180 turn! the reaction turning out of the 180 with the ailerons was a bit slower than I anticipated though, but I was able to kick the plane back over to level flight in a second or two. I'd say that most of the aileron turns took a bit longer to fly out than I would have wanted, after flying my warthog a few times, how could I expect this kind of action from the stick? All in all I'd say if you really want a 4 channel stick (like I did) this is a pretty dang cool modification, and puts the extra fun into getting your stick back to you as easily as you did before!
I found that I had a bit harder of a time landing the plane right at my feet than I did with the 3 channel stick, as I was taking it slower to learn to controll all 4 channels at once. Now I can say I've flown a 4 channel R/c plane and thats more than alot of people can say! The slow stick makes a great 4 channel trainer, since it is so slow to your reactions. the ailerons reacting somewhat slow is a good thing, and leaving the dihedral in will help with auto-leveling in case the newbie 4 chaneller gets a bit crazy.

anyways, I dig it! 4 channel Stick! I think I'm going to give the ailerons a bit MORE controll throw now too! I forgot to mention I had them on a really weak throw! So I'd say, want your stick 4ch? it's fun... give it a try. if it doesn't work, tape the ailerons back on and your 3ch again!

I'll try a flight with my 7 cell 730 mah GWS warthog battery later today and increase the controll throws. This will be the REAL test on the stick as a 4 channel plane. I have a few more things to do to get it workin' perfectly =>
-casey

A10FLYR

My Feedback: (1)

Didja flatten out the wing? (Take out the diehedral). So far yours is just like mine on the control linkage. Just haven't had time to fly it.

caseyjholmes

Nope, didn't take the dihedral out. I added more controll throw and now I can really feel the ailerons, enough so to where it wouldn't be much worth the extra weight to modify it to 0 dihedral. They really work good when you give them lots of controll throw! perfect 4 channel trainer. I'll try a roll or two if I get brave enough next time I'm out, just for the heck of it. Although I'll probably have to be at 100ft to do a complete roll...
-casey
So far, with lots of throw on the ailerons, it works great for me! I added some adjustable aileron torque rods to m,ake it easier to set it up after removing the wing for transpotation too.

Jason Beach

My Feedback: (4)

Contrats on your success.

Jason

caseyjholmes

Thanks! I'm amazed it works myself! on to my next project- a crazy aerobatic brushless 4 channel I'm sure you'll all hear about my mistakes
-casey

slowflyer111

like cabanestrut2002 said the ailerons are too small.I put ailerons on mine and theyre the wings length long but i actually havent flown it yet...

mblueye

I am using a two cell lith. battery that is haft the weight of the seven cell. I mounted is under the wing above the main shaft...... with this battery it will fly for 30 minute ...... Just don't run it down to less than 6 volts.......It should fly the same as the seven cell with out the extra servo...... Have fun

dspires

I rigged ailerons on a 2nd stick that I bought used (no motor). I used an HS-81 in the wing. Photos below.

slowflyer111

I just flew mine w/ ailerons...[:'(] It was soo bad. it worked worse than just a rudder. DONT TRY IT!!!

dspires

Mine flies great. Did you set up aileron-rudder mixing?

newman

I agree that there is no point to adding ailerons. I read all about it before I did it and had to try it anyways. In my experience it actually did work, but it drops like a brick when you pitch one wing so whats the point? Since then I have removed the ailerons and patched the hole and am just using it as it was. Its still a great plane.. once you update to the 350 motor.

Pete

dspires

Of course it will drop when rolled. The lift vector is tilted and the verticle component of lift is no longer enough to compensate for weight. Elevator (increase AOA) and power (maintain airspeed) are required to keep a level turn.