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Why can't I fly?

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Old 04-02-2004, 12:07 PM
  #76  
LTSharpe
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Default RE: Why can't I fly?

As long as you don't plug the 12.6 volt field chargers into 13.8 volt power supplies or turn your car on when the thing is plugged in then they work just fine. You're right on the design, just a timer with a dropping resistor. I used one to charge my 4.8 volt nims for my firebird II and it worked fine. At first i plugged it into 13.8 and it got REAL HOT and so did hte battery,, long before the 45 minutes was up which was the normalcharge time. I then ran it on a variable voltage supply set at 12.65 and it worked fine after that. No overheating problems and the 45 minute timer was correct if the battery was truly dead.
Old 04-13-2004, 03:17 PM
  #77  
raabid
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Default RE: Why can't I fly?

ORIGINAL: pomanjon

I have decided that in order to make the electric aspect of this hobby work for me, I will have to buy the best of motors, batteries, and chargers (brushless,lipo). I don't expect glow performance out of electrics, but I want at least a little performance!
LoL, I would certainly hope you wouldn't expect glow performance, as you would be setting the bar too low. Electrics are far superior in any category, save maybe cost.

One thing I haven't read yet is that without any input other than full throttle, they can climb to stall quickly. Most of my smaller planes fly at half throttle.
Old 04-15-2004, 10:54 PM
  #78  
vindicator
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Default RE: Why can't I fly?

ORIGINAL: chall

Nope, the propeller can't be installed backwards on this plane. But you can break it! ;-)

There is no "UP" stick on this two-channel plane. The left control is a throttle, the right controls the rudder-vators (I guess you'd call'em). It has a V-tail.

My current theory is that the tail assembly is not being held in proper alignment with the fuselage. These planes have a long thin carbon-fiber tube connecting the tail and fuselage, and there are little bolts to fix the tube at both ends to it won't rotate.

I think it's rotating despite the little bolts, so the tail is out of alignment and sends the plane down to the left or right, hard.

I think I have enough propellers, white glue, and packing tape to make some more attempts. Maybe I can put a drop of CA on that shaft at the tail join and keep things from moving around. I'll post again if I have any luck!

Woah!
Try this just to be sure:
When you move the right control to the right which of the rudder-vators move up or down?
Is it possible that they are connected reversed?
I'd expect the right one's trailing edge (as if you were sitting in the plane) to move UP and the left one's trailing edge to go down, or not move.
I don't have the plane, though, so I'm not sure...

I like the GWS slowstick! I've got three! I've built 6 for other people, including 3 flight students of mine.... All of them can fly it now!
Old 04-21-2004, 09:28 PM
  #79  
Raincloud48
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Default RE: Why can't I fly?

I am also a beginner that "can't make it fly". I bought a firebird IIST. It is uncontrollable and it is in bad shape due to all the crashes. I just discovered that I may have an electrical problem that is causing a lot of problems. I personally am done with firebirds, but don't know what to buy. I have managed to keep it in the air long enough to get the bug. I am 55 years old and get a little upset when I read all the advertisments that show how easy it is for kids to fly the plane. Maybe I'm too old! Does anyone make a RTF that is ready to fly?
Old 04-21-2004, 09:57 PM
  #80  
mook
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Default RE: Why can't I fly?

chall get the slow stick nice plane can upgrade motor much more easy to fly
Old 09-26-2013, 10:20 PM
  #81  
trecatti
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Hello my modelling friend,I started control line in the sixtes,then onto rc ,First trainer Precedent Hi Boy superb,was advised just to keep flying until model completely irepairable.
I learnt to fly with that model helped by a club member who tutored me 3/4 times a week. We have now moved on Foam for everything and when flown by some young guy
who knows nothing but rc flying it looks easy and remember its all about selling not abot flying. Find a club ,listen to the established members ,you may not like their choice of plane
but i assure you they will get you in the air in the cheapest and shortest time. Modellers are a GREAT FAMILY to be in. RON from uk but living in Thailand
Old 09-30-2013, 06:39 PM
  #82  
mad web tv scientist
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Fabulous thread! Great adventures that all of us "self taught" flyers can sympathize with. The really dumb thing I did in the beginning was to insist on learning to fly on too small of a field. The problem with crashing is the tendency to become emotionally paranoid such that emotion overcomes common sense especially under high stress conditions, too low, too high, too far away, too much wind, etc., and crash again.


Those were the days. Motor powered gliders worked very well to help settle my nerves down. When I finally gave up trying to fly my planes on small fields I enjoyed my very first full flight that ran the battery all the way to cut off voltage. I just met four fairly new R/C flyers and found that three of them learned on a flight sim before finally flying the real thing which I recommend as the best way to go.


Hang in there everybody, hope to see some of you scrambling on the fighter threads sooner or later.


Out,

Last edited by mad web tv scientist; 09-30-2013 at 07:04 PM.
Old 10-01-2013, 03:34 PM
  #83  
Propworn
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I have been flying models for some time. As a kid I learned to fly free flight rubber power and gliders. Then came control line as a teenager when I could afford the motor and fuel from my part time jobs. In my early 20’s I was able to afford my first RC model and yes I taught myself how to fly each and every one of them. Needless to say my building skills for a long time were better than my flying skills.

I have watched guys attempting to teach themselves with all kinds of models in as many different fields as you could imagine. Some of the biggest hurdles to being successful are.

Using too small a field for a beginner to fly from don’t short yourself on clear flying space. Find the largest area free of obstacles you can, learning how to control your model is more than enough of a challenge without having to worry about trees and buildings.

Failing to completely set up your model not just the C of G and control throws but test gliding the darn thing before you add power. Remember if you get into trouble while attempting to fly under power these trainer style aircraft should be very stable with the power off and self righting while maintaining a reasonable glide slope.

Failing to take off and land directly into the wind.

Knowing when to quit. By this I mean knowing when you have lost the ability to control your model and reducing the power to let the model settle into that glide slope and land.

From years of teaching myself and others to fly all sorts of models try this and let me know if you are successful.

  1. Balance your airplane as per the instructions with battery in place (not connected). Next use a string and suspend it from the balance point in the center of the fuselage and balance it wing tip to wing tip. This can be done right side up or inverted. Add weight to the light wing tip until it hangs level.
  2. The most important step is to set the glide angle. This is the angle you want the plane to assume when the power is off and the sticks are neutral. A calm day with little or no wind is best for this set up. If you have a small hill or you can stand on top of a picnic table or other object that raises you up at least 4 to 6 feet its perfect. Again you must face directly into any wind. Try and make the adjustments to trim the model out without moving the trim leavers on the radio. Do this by adjusting the pushrods as per the instructions. This leaves the maximum trim adjustment from the radio for when it’s needed. The best start point is rudder and ailerons neutral with just a touch of up elevator. Pitch the airplane as straight and flat as you can with a good medium force like pitching a paper airplane. This speed should be slow enough so in the event of a rough landing there will be no damage. Note the glide slope. If it bobs up and slows then drops and repeats this there is too much up elevator or you’re throwing it to hard. Reduce the up elevator a very small amount and repeat the test. On the other hand if it noses over and picks up a lot of speed and does not level out before hitting the ground you will need more up elevator or toss it a bit harder. What you are trying to achieve is a gentle consistent glide slope without stalling or diving into the ground with the motor off and hands off the transmitter. When it consistently glides to an acceptable landing without the motor you are ready to add a little throttle. Try 1/4 throttle and launch it the same way keep testing straight into the wind with a little more throttle each time. You will learn how much throttle is needed for straight and level flight and how much to climb. Now if you get in trouble all you have to do is reduce the throttle and use the rudder and or ailerons to gently guide it away from danger and back to you. Once you have it under control you can vary the throttle to extend the glide slope until the model returns to you.
  3. Humidity and temperature can affect your trim so you know how it’s supposed to glide so each day when you go out to fly toss the thing into the wind and check out the glide slope. This is where the trim tabs on the transmitter come into play. You can fine tune the elevator, rudder and ailerons for the daily conditions with the trim tabs until a straight glide slope is achieved. If you take the time to do this your model should fly the same each and every day regardless of weather.
  4. If you just throw the thing together and go out throttle up and throw it into the air you will find you will smash more on your first flight than anything. Take the time to set it up and your success rate and level of enjoyment will be much better.
  5. Always remember take off and landing into the wind!!!!!!!


Dennis

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