Greg Covey

Hi,

I'm reviewing the new GWS Tiger Moth 400. This is a new, larger version of the popular GWS Tiger Moth slowflyer which has a geared Speed 400 motor and a real semi-symmetrical airfoil wing.

SPECIFICATIONS:
[ul][*] Length: 781 mm ( 30.7in)[*] Wing Span: 960 mm ( 37.8 in)[*] Wing Area: 27.4 dm² (424.7 sq.in)[*] Flying Weight: 500~550g (17.6~19.4 oz)[*] Wing Loading: 18.25~20.1 g (6~6.6 oz)/sq.ft[*] Power System: EPS-400C(D)[*] Propeller: EP1060[*] Battery Required: 8N730mAh(NI-MH)[*] Servos: 3 PICO / NARO [*] Receiver: R6NII[*] Speed controller ICS-400[*] Radio Required: 4-Channel radio
[/ul]

Greg Covey

Here are the parts removed from the box. I found no damage on any part and each of the various types of pieces was bagged in their own catagories. The geared Speed 400 motor and 10x6 prop are included in the kit.

RC Sumo

Greg....I look forward to every review you and your staff write for electrics....based my purchase of my Aerobird Challenger largely on your review. I was wondering if this Tigermoth came with ailerons? Would love to see one of these yellow beauties twisting a barrel roll over my flying field!
Looking forward to the review!

Greg Covey

Thanks! I aways hope to reveal things that may not be obvious to a potential customer. Today's kits seem almost always good so it can look we are biased sometimes. What a change in R/C technology over the last 5 years!

I haven't seen much information on this new TM 400 design and I had the same question myself that you ask. First, I discovered that the wings were real and not just another undercamber design. Second, I discovered that this model is full-house; rudder, elevator, and ailerons!

The kit comes with a full color manual and two decal sheets. The second decal sheet is various "GWS" cutouts.

The manual has great photos and instructions that follow them by number, but, I have already found a tube length error and some orientation issues because the photos can be too close at time to reveal exactly where you are in the fuselage or wing. Obviously, i'll make my own photos here when I get initially stuck.

Greg Covey

The first step in assembly is to glue the elevator and rudder tubing into the sides of the fuselage tail. Although GWS supplies a tube of glue in the kit, I choose to use 5-minute epoxy.

The manual says to cut the tube to a length of 260mm but this was rather short and did not agree with another photo farther along in the manual. I choose to cut my second tube at a length of 300mm.

The second photo here shows the wing nut glued into place and you can see that my first 260mm tube is a bit short. It can actually go as far as being in-line with the wing nut.

Greg Covey

I then glued the fuselage together with Aileene's Tacky White Glue and held it with several rubberbands until dry.

Greg Covey

I received a GWS ICS-300J ESC with the review kit but suspect that it may not be the correct choice. The manual says to use an ICS-400 ESC.

My ICS-300 ESC was rated for 8amps continuous and up to 15amps peak short term so I figured it was worth a try on my Speed 400 motor. Additionally, the ESC came with an optional heatsink that looked like a good idea to install.

Greg Covey

The step to install the heatsink is to remove the existing shrink wrap on the ESC because new heatshrink is supplied and the plastic layer must not go in between the power transitor and thermal pad.

Make sure that the protective layers are removed from both sides of the thermal pad and then place it directly onto the transitor. The heatsink can then be placed onto the pad and then held in place with the new shrink wrap. Make sure that after you heat the shrink wrap that the heatsink is held firmly against the thermal pad and the transistor.

Greg Covey

Before installing the geared Speed 400 motor, I wired my ESC for a Dean's Ultra battery connector instead of the stock red JST connector.

The motor simply pressed onto the pre-cut stick and was held securely with a screw through the plastic into the wood. I then epoxied the stick into the fuse slot. Everything fit together very well.

Tucson01

My Feedback: (1)

I see one HUGE flaw in the Heatsink and shrink wrap design.

If you did not know Air is a VERY GOOD insulator. Air is now trapped between the cool fins.

This means heat is trapped between the cooling fins and can not escape.

The heat dissapation of the orginal ESC might even be better without the Heatsink and shrink wrap.

Also being stuck in the Styro fuse without airflow it just compounds the heat retained.


I would remove the shrink wrap in the cooling fin area.

Greg Covey

Keep in mind that the original ESC had the same heatshrink on it. (see above photos)

This was removed to add a much larger metal surface to help dissipate heat. The new heat shrink actually has some openings on either end. I doubt that it will get all that hot in this model. A Speed 400 motor should make plenty of power at only partial throttle but i'll check it after a flight and also look for possible airflow schemes.

Here is a photo of the ESC in a rather large compartment that has good potential for airflow, if needed.

Greg Covey

The first step in the wing assembly is to glue a fiberglass rod support into the top side of the bottom wing. I used epoxy here but the GWS-supplied glue will also work fine.

Greg Covey

After cutting out the ailerons from the wing, you need to cut some slots for the hinges and drill holes for the torque rod.

I used the GWS glue to attach the ailerons to the wings. Instead of cutting grooves into the aileron for the torque rod to sit in for a closer mate, I decided to leave the aileron out a bit to match the gap with the center part of the wing and allow less binding on the platic hinge material. Either way should work fine.

Greg Covey

The next step is to glue some plastics into the wing and fuselage that will secure the wing on both leading and trailing edges. The landing gear support is also installed at this time.

Greg Covey

The bottom wing mounts with just a single screw in the trailing edge and is locked in the leading edge with the double post. The wing to fuselage seam was a perfect fit on both top and bottom sides.

Greg Covey

The elevator halves are cut from the horizontal stabilizer and then attached together with a metal joiner.

Four hinges are used to hold the elevator to the stabilizer. I used epoxy for the metal joiner, and, after it dried, attached the hinges using the GWS glue.

Greg Covey

The rudder is first cut and then re-assembled onto the vertical stabilizer in a similar manner.

I added the steerable tailwheel assembly onto the rudder before attaching it to the fuselage per the instructions.

I saw no issues with the stabilizer assembly and I am now ready to glue the tail together.

ny

this is my TM 400,
factory powered eps400C setup,12A at full thro!![X(]

Greg Covey

Hi ny,

Thanks for the picture! It looks like you are already flying your TM 400. How does she roll?


I started gluing my strut supports in place on the wing and fuselage. It is always best to rough up the plastic with sandpaper on the side to be glued. This provides a better hold.

Greg Covey

The horizontal stabilizer is glued in place first and then the vertical stabilizer.

The rudder and tailwheel assembly is glued next and the final step is to glue the tailwheel support bracket onto the fuselage bottom.

Greg Covey

The manual seemed to miss a step before mounting the cowl and the kit did not contain the parts needed. It went right into screwing the cowl in place on the fuselage.

This was easily remedied by making my own square cowl supports from the leftover plastic strut support material. I simply cut 3 square pieces and glued them into place on the fuselage nose.

Greg Covey

After trimming the cowl and cutting out a hole for the prop shaft and another hole for airflow, I was ready to mount it to the fuselage with three tiny screws.

I could now see that there was a plan for proper airflow into the front of the cowl through large openings in the fuselage to cool both the motor and ESC. This was a good design thought by GWS for the TM 400.

At this point, I decided to deviate from the manual step sequencing because the next step was to mount the upper wing which would block the inside compartment meant for installing the servos and receiver. Since I didn't want to unscrew the upper wing again, I decided to leave this step for last.

I installed the stock landing gear without issue. My Tiger Moth could now stand on all three wheels and I was ready to install the three servos and linkage.

Greg Covey

A close-up shot of the mounted cowl reveals the air intake hole.

I added a small plastic bushing to the wheel axel to minimize wobble.

Greg Covey

I put the components exactly where the manual showed them. I used Hitec HS-55 servos which fit perfectly in the provided pockets. My GWS R4-P receiver has the full length antenna running through the inside of the fuselage.

ny

hi Greg..
it can do slow rolls with tail full-range control
i will give it an exturner brushless motor to get more easier flght.