Dihedral or Flatter Wing
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Dihedral or Flatter Wing
HI, I have a Slow stick that I built to kit specifications. Here in Colorado the wind gusts erratically from 5mph to 15mph in a split second.
I was wondering if I were to get a new wing and use about 1/2 the amount of dihedrial, would that help from getting blown around the flying area when the wind is higher and I try to turn back into the wind. If the wind stays low, the plane flyies great.
Any of you guys have slightly high wind flying ideas? Thanks, Jerry Bohn
I was wondering if I were to get a new wing and use about 1/2 the amount of dihedrial, would that help from getting blown around the flying area when the wind is higher and I try to turn back into the wind. If the wind stays low, the plane flyies great.
Any of you guys have slightly high wind flying ideas? Thanks, Jerry Bohn
#2
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RE: Dihedral or Flatter Wing
Yes, dump the slow stick and try something like a multiplex pico cub and get a gearbox for it. I started on a slow stick and am self taught. I found that the stick was pretty much useless in anything but NO wind conditions. It makes a great indoor flyer but just doesn't have the response you need to handle any kind of wind. On the other hand the cub I mentioned is much more forgiving and will with the addition of the optional gearbox outperform the slow stick in just about every area including trying to teach yourself how to fly.
Here's why.
It has a huge 46!QUOT! wingspan with an airfoil designed to lift small artillery so it would probably fly with the IPS unit from your stick and will make better use of your servos.
The stock engine with the puny 5!QUOT! prop will give you about the same performance as the stick. Put on the gearbox and a 10!QUOT! slowfly prop and watch it speck out in the sky above. With this set up and the addition of wing struts (supplied in the kit) it's possible to do multiple loops, just watch you don't break the tail. You'll know when you've done that cause it'll start to fly !QUOT!funny!QUOT! but it will fly.
I broke my stick repeatedly from pounding it in in light winds. It is fun to try but a pain to fix. For the cub just take along some packing tape. You can pretty much fix anything that will break and its lighter then duct tape or nails.
Because its' made of open celled foam EPF? it is much stiffer then the stick and makes a huge difference if you're getting tossed around. Think about it, when the stick gets kicked the shape of the wing changes and changes a lot, what does that do to things.
The cub has landing gear that are bullet proof just be prepared to bend things back into shape after a bad landing. I broke the wheels on my stick fairly quickly and had to replace them many times.
Can't speak for the stick but the cub will thermal with the best of them in the right conditions. Just watch the birds.
New Cub motor, 10 bucks
New IPS drive, 35 bucks
Somebody really should make disposable gearboxes for these things.
BTW I still have the stick and will be experimenting with a CD motor. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trashing the stick and don't throw it out. It's great for what its intended; flying indoors or in no wind (rare) conditions outside, and it's also great for confined spaces. OK this one I give to the stick.
So it sounds like you are ready to move up, do it.
Here's why.
It has a huge 46!QUOT! wingspan with an airfoil designed to lift small artillery so it would probably fly with the IPS unit from your stick and will make better use of your servos.
The stock engine with the puny 5!QUOT! prop will give you about the same performance as the stick. Put on the gearbox and a 10!QUOT! slowfly prop and watch it speck out in the sky above. With this set up and the addition of wing struts (supplied in the kit) it's possible to do multiple loops, just watch you don't break the tail. You'll know when you've done that cause it'll start to fly !QUOT!funny!QUOT! but it will fly.
I broke my stick repeatedly from pounding it in in light winds. It is fun to try but a pain to fix. For the cub just take along some packing tape. You can pretty much fix anything that will break and its lighter then duct tape or nails.
Because its' made of open celled foam EPF? it is much stiffer then the stick and makes a huge difference if you're getting tossed around. Think about it, when the stick gets kicked the shape of the wing changes and changes a lot, what does that do to things.
The cub has landing gear that are bullet proof just be prepared to bend things back into shape after a bad landing. I broke the wheels on my stick fairly quickly and had to replace them many times.
Can't speak for the stick but the cub will thermal with the best of them in the right conditions. Just watch the birds.
New Cub motor, 10 bucks
New IPS drive, 35 bucks
Somebody really should make disposable gearboxes for these things.
BTW I still have the stick and will be experimenting with a CD motor. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trashing the stick and don't throw it out. It's great for what its intended; flying indoors or in no wind (rare) conditions outside, and it's also great for confined spaces. OK this one I give to the stick.
So it sounds like you are ready to move up, do it.
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RE: Dihedral or Flatter Wing
Highflyingguy,
Always!!! take advice like the above post with a grain of SALT.
With a few CHEAP fixes you can fly in gust up to 15mph,
1. Get some 2 inch wide Fiberglass packing tape.
2. Remove the fiberglass rods and that aluminum connector. Take the connector to Ace or any local hardware and buy Stainless
tubing close to the Inside diameter of the aluminum about $4. Go home cut a length of that Tubing and bend it to the same angle as the
aluminum brace put it back together and use the Fiberglass tape to attach it.
(I had over 30 flights on the aluminum but believe me its not fun to see your Wings fold in flight and this is a quick and easy fix)
3. Make a Tail brace __/|\__ for the Vertical Stabilizer out of Balsa or Bamboo or Graphite
4. Use the Fiberglass tape on the bottom of the Tail horizontal stabilizer.
5. Use the Fiberglass tape on top of the Stock Tape for the hinges.
6. Add a few strips of Fiberglass tape to the underside of the Wing . | | | | | and ======================
I run ThunderPower 2100s get about 30+ mins. Hobbico MKII is about $50 and will charge 2 batteries at a time will do lipo to 3 cells
(it only charges a lipo to a little over 80% but it will not over charge your cells which is a good thing)
This is one of 4 planes , 3 are nitro and this is my Favorite to throw around in the Air Have fun
Always!!! take advice like the above post with a grain of SALT.
With a few CHEAP fixes you can fly in gust up to 15mph,
1. Get some 2 inch wide Fiberglass packing tape.
2. Remove the fiberglass rods and that aluminum connector. Take the connector to Ace or any local hardware and buy Stainless
tubing close to the Inside diameter of the aluminum about $4. Go home cut a length of that Tubing and bend it to the same angle as the
aluminum brace put it back together and use the Fiberglass tape to attach it.
(I had over 30 flights on the aluminum but believe me its not fun to see your Wings fold in flight and this is a quick and easy fix)
3. Make a Tail brace __/|\__ for the Vertical Stabilizer out of Balsa or Bamboo or Graphite
4. Use the Fiberglass tape on the bottom of the Tail horizontal stabilizer.
5. Use the Fiberglass tape on top of the Stock Tape for the hinges.
6. Add a few strips of Fiberglass tape to the underside of the Wing . | | | | | and ======================
I run ThunderPower 2100s get about 30+ mins. Hobbico MKII is about $50 and will charge 2 batteries at a time will do lipo to 3 cells
(it only charges a lipo to a little over 80% but it will not over charge your cells which is a good thing)
This is one of 4 planes , 3 are nitro and this is my Favorite to throw around in the Air Have fun