Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

icejay,
Nice job on the mount. How will you attach the motor to it?

jrobert,
Recheck your CG, most Strykers fly like they are on rails. A tail heavy bird will act like this, being very unstable.

jrobert59

Thanks flyingace451 and glacier girl for your responses. The plane wants to climb quite a bit so I use down trim as well as down elevon when flying. Then when I'm keeping it level it will just dip but not from stalling. As glacier girl said it's probably the cg even though I have the nimh batter pushed well forward in the compartment and keep it there with velcro. I just adjusted the elevon clevis for more down trim so maybe that was off a little too.

I have read through the entire Stryker forum and appreciate all the knowledge imparted there. I know my question is pretty basic but if the Stryker is supposed to run on rails then I'm definitely doing something wrong. I will try to move battery and cg even more forward and maybe with the elevon adjustment it will improve the stability.

flyingace451

My CG on my Stryker is just slightly forward of the circle indentions in the finger holds. I have my battery as far forward as it will go, maybe that helps.

cadetman

jrobert59

it is important that you ensure the centre of gravity is correct before altering the thrust line,
if your stryker is balanced at the indentations on the G3 Fuse then read on

what you need to do is make sure the thrust line of the motor is directly thru the centre of the nose of your stryker,

use a bit of string and viewed from the side.. you may need to remove the fins to get a good view,
it will give you and idea of were the thrust line is by holding the string on the same line as the motor shaft,

by making the thrust line above the centre of the nose when more power is added it will force the stryker to fly downwards,

if you put the thrustline Below the centre of the nose it will make the Stryker go up !
once you have the thrust line sorted,

depending on the battery payload this can be used to compensate for the extra wieght and power

Ray

icejay55

THE MOTOR SLIDES RIGHT IN AND THE MOUNT HAS TWO SET SCREWS ONE ON EACH SIDE TWO HOLD IT IN PLACE I TRIED IT TODAY ON MY STRYKER I USE MY MEGA MOTOR AND LET ME TELL YOU IT FLEW NICE AND LEVEL AND THE MOUNT AS A HEAT SINK KEEPS THE MOTOR NICE AND COOL WHAT GOOD ABOUT THE ITS VERY LIGHT.

drunken pilot

ahm... well thats a stupid question guys but... how do u put a photo below ur name on the left side????

falcon finder

Bleary,

I took the twin jet (3 motors) out for madden flight today and things did not go so well. My CG is good but the twin jet would roll at take off. 5 attampt and five hard landings. I had a 4.75X4.75 prop on my fegiea(sp) and it seem to not have enough thrust. I switch to a 5.5 X 4.5 and it did a little better but still rolled and crashed. I thought it looked cool but still a new guy at this. Try try again. I am not going to give up. Thank you GG and the rest of the elders. I almost gave up but through all the help from GG and the elders I am now having a blast trying new things.

mpresco2002

Hi all, I'm thinking about picking up one of these beasts as my second plane. I am currently flying the sky scoot, pretty close to stock. I've learned quite a bit from the scoot thread, and I recognize a few posters in here from that thread. Question: should I go and get the whole RTF kit, or build my own? From what I hear, some of the PZ gear is pretty bunk. Also, if I do go with the stryker, are the scoot batts usable at all or no? Right now I'm torn between *****g out the scoot, or jumping up to the stryker. I can fly the scoot crash-free when I chose to, so I think my skill level is up to the challenge.

falcon finder

GG,

Thanks for the reply. You have really help me build on the new hobby/passion. I have 4 motors. A mega 16/15/4 mega 16/25/3 and 2 of the Fegiao 3808413L 2223 rpm/volts .0300ohms and 32 amps. My multi plex twin jet(two stock brushed 480 and one fegiao 3808413L) madden flight did not go so well. Put a 4.75X4.75 on the Fegiao motor but did not have enought thrust (rolled and crashed) to carry the weight. I did not weigh it yet(I should have) but the CG to on the money. I put a 5.5X4.5 prop and was a little better but still rolled and crashed. 5 times try 5 times crashed. A little CA and bigger prop and will try again. I have another twin jet fuselage and was going to put 2 of the fegiao motors with 2 80 cc(bought this for a later project) with a 5 cell 2000 (30 amp continues) and a 5 cell 4000 (60 amp continues) in parallel but it sounds like this is a no no.[X(] It will not work? Should I hook each battery to each ESC separately? I have "y" connected the ESC to channel 3 and the UBEC to channel 4. The motors work on bench test. If I parallel the 2000 and 4000 cells will the 2000 drain past the limit? This are the numbers from each motor, batteries and prop size.

1. 16/15/4

3s2100 TP
4.75X4.75 Prop 15.3 amps 160 watts, 5.0X5.0 prop 19.02 amps and 190 watts, 5.5X4.5 19.67 a 193 watts, 6X4 prop 21.60 A 215 W, 7X4 prop over shot safe numbers,6X5.5 25.4 a,245 watts

2. 16/25/3
3s2100 Tp 4.75X4.75 10.27 A 113 w 4cell 15.62 A 216 watts, 5cell 24.5 A 450 watts,
5.0 5.0 prop 3 cell 10.23 A 108 watts 4 cell 19.78 A 270 watts, 5 cell 30.65 A 532 watts,
5.5X4.5 3 cell 14.30 A 149 watts,4 cell 22 A 296 watts, 5 cell 33.22 A 589 watts
6X4 3 cell 15.35 A 159 watts, 4 cell 23.99 A 317 watts, 5cell 37.2 A 622 watts
7X4 prop 3 cell 25 A 250 watts, 4 cell 28 A 437 watts, 5 cell 48 A 697 watts

3. Fegiao 3808413L 32 amp motor
5X4.5 3 cell 30 amps 275 watts 4 cell 55 amps 760 watts
5.0X5.0 prop 5cell 48a 647 watts
6X4 prop 3 cell 33 amps 312 watts, 4 cell 68 amps 806 watts
7X4 prop 3 cell 45 amps 389 watts

I have been running my stryker with the Fegiao with 4 and 5 cell with 80 amp CC ESC with the 5.0X5.0 prop in 20- 50 degree weather with 5 to 10 second burst on high speed low passes and everything is ok. The motor comes down hot but not to hot to touch. The same with the 5 cell 2000. It comes down hot but give it time to cool down before recharge. My 5 cell 4000 is just a little warm. I am sure I am going to shorten the life of the motor but it is much faster than my 16/25/3 mega motor. I have not put a radar on it but is is a significant jump in speed over the mega motor.

I was looking at the HET F20. I think I saw that you have one. Did you go with the 2w 20 700 watt motor. I had seen somewhere that a seen somewhere that a 950 watt motor may be available. I think it is a typhoon motor as well. I am still very new at this. Do you think I can handle the build? How hard is it? How much time for a new guy like me? I think my piloting skills are ready but I do not want to get into a build that I can not handle.

As always you are the man and thank you for the help[8D]

Falcon Finder

cadetman

falcon finder

i would be worried if a Lipo comes down hot [X(] its the quickest way to kill it stone dead !
the part your touching is the outside.. the inside temp or the middle cell is gonna be much higher
as a guide if a lipo pack needs to cool down in winter temps before charging its been pushed over its limits

Ray

mrfixit54016

I agree with Cadetman! Be careful with that set-up.

Maine_Flyer

it looks and sounds as though the high-mounted brushless is creating some adverse roll at launch... the more bite the prop has the worse it is.. thats why the steeper pitches create less roll.. the prop is border-line stalled at launch..

I had a TJ with stock motors and ran it on 3s 3100 and 3s 4400 with prop adapters and 6x3 APC props and they had good bite and launches were straight and level most of the time.. I tried a bunch of different props a 5x4 was decent but was an amp hawg.. 6x3 was the best setup for me... that 3rd motor is screwing things up for you--it's running at a higher RPM and taking over the thrust task at launch and with it's high mounting, it's creating alot more torque roll then it should...

that setup is going to be nothing but trouble.. I aint saying it won't work with some tweeking, but the benefits gained would not be worth the trouble it's gonna create... brushless trying to over-come the drag created by the brushed motors lack of topend speed.. it will be like a single brushless towing a small parachute trying to overcome the drag...

thats my take, like it or not

Hagar69

Flirting with the dark side!
Have flown my stock Stryker for a year, just experimented with 8, 9 and 10 cell NIMH packs and the new lipo prop (5x3). But now I have finally taken a step further, just got the BL21 motor from Aero-nuts and the PowerZone from Mr. RC Cam. Have bench tested the setup, seems to work perfectly. Will install in bird tonight

I see that APC 7x6 is the reccomended prop with this motor, I got a few GWS 8x6 props as part of the Motor/ESC deal. I have cut one of them down to 7x6, will this work? The cut down prop is balanced and there is no vibration when test running. I will run with a 9 cell 1200 mAh NIMH for now, 3s lipo will be the next step.

Will the the cut down prop be more likely to stall at high rpms than a proper 7x6?

--
Hagar

cadetman

Hagar69

i have done my share of cutting down props and it will work but i find its never exactly the same,
the BP21 doesnt really have RPMS,
what i found was the static thrust is a lot less that the in flight thrust, once it gets a bit of airspeed the prop begins to do the Biz
i always used the APCE 7x6 and they are the perfect match

nice to see RC Cam has come up with the goods

let us know how you get on

Ray

mrfixit54016

Hagar,

The Orange GWS props are slow-flyer props, so they generally are too flexible for the stryker's needs. Cadetman suggested the APC props, which are still made for electric motors, but they are a stiff gray plastic prop. They are great performers.

To all the New Years Newbies:

If you read page 1 of this thread, I posted a .pdf file there approx half way down the page. You may find some helpful hints there on mods for your new Stryker.

Good Luck out there...

Hagar69

Mr. Fixit,
My GWS propellers are black and quite stiff, not nearly as flexible as the orange ones. Will post results tomorrow.
Think they are called HD (Hyper Drive), sounds pretty cool

Hagar

mrfixit54016

SLIGHTLY UPDATED .PDF FILE ATTACHED.

This should help some of the newer Stryker owners.

sjchmura

So the $45 Aero-nuts free shipping

http://www.aero-nuts.com/index.php?cPath=42_44

Is the one to get - correct??

Got all the parts - going dark side. I am thinking of a thunderbird like paint job - blue bottom, lots of plain white foam

Has anyone tried to push teh lipo more forward and remove the nose weight to decrease overall wing loading?

drunken pilot

another question for u guys:

almost everyone uses carbon rods trough their stryker... why no one uses aluminium rods? less expensive, more resistant (well it doesnt bend as much but it's metal so i dont think its gonna break) and much lighter. I use only aluminium and didnt have any trouble yet... I have one about 6 inch long from the rear to the middle (it goes between the plastic pieces of the stock motor mount), i've put 2 others about 11 inch long in a V from the nose towards the rudders, and (these ones really aint necessary I think) i've put four 4 inch long mini-rods in front of the plane, just behind the nose, in case the plane takes a really hard crash on the nose

well if someone can tell the benefits of carbon i'd really like to know. thx all

mrfixit54016

You will see why we run one from nose-to-tail once you start going at brushless speeds and start pulling High-G manuevers, the fuse will develop a permanent bend to it. Same goes for the one rod all the way across the wingspan. Can you say "gull-wing"???

Forming the "T" intersection of rods under the motor mount also creates a huge gain in strength in this critical, and infamous weakspot on the Stryker.

The carbon vs. aluminum debate goes back to archery lessons learned. The carbon shaft is actually stronger, and more forgiving. I agree that you probably will still be successful with the aluminum, but on the chance you did hit it hard, the aluminum tube will crease and bend, where the carbon will flex, and then return to it's original straight self.

drunken pilot

thx alot! I ask all those questions because i plan to buy a new frame already and take my time to build it WELL... not quickly like i did with the other because i couldnt wait to fly it lol . by the way, do anyone knows a good stuff to paint it without having to spend alot for specialised paint? mine looks ok but as soon as i put tape on it the paint goes away...

Fisher

If you are flying the Sky Scooter then you should have no trouble stepping up to the Stryker. Just might move a little faster at times. I would not buy the kit if you already have a good 3 channel radio. For similar money you could end up with a brushless BP-21 and 3-cell Dymond Lipo battery. Assembling all the pieces is about as easy as a plane is ever going to get and you can either paint it to your liking or just fly it as is.

Stock paint job is nice and I never had any trouble with the electronics until I dropped the Lipo in and set the control rods to maximum throws. Worked fine until I slammed it into the ground and then it was time to convert over to a real TX and RX.

Another option is to build your own plane from the ground up. I am no builder but I did it and am very glad I did. Took a month to figure it out and a day or two to build two all foam planes out of $8.00 worth of foam from Lowes.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3511182/tm.htm

Go with the stock kit if you just want to fly. It works great and is 3-cell Lipo compatible. Otherwise get the parts and make your own, cost a bit more if you jump to brushless but way more room to grow. Have fun.

sjchmura

Is there a nice picture of hte "T" carbon fiber mod? I understand it - in principle - but hard to follow the text descriptions for crappy builders like me

drunken pilot

ok here i have a choice to do... as some of you guys know, i have to get another ESC because that OTTER aint worth any ****. should a take a CC 25 or a CC35? do i NEED a 35? or could I use it , with the same batteries (two 11.1v 1050 mAh 12C -16C bursts- paralelled or not) to gain some speed with a bigger prop? do I absolutly need a bigger battery to have more speed, or the ESC helps?

also, the guy at the hobby shop told me I needed a number either for the CC25 or the 35 to order it... anyone knows these serial number? thx alot all

falcon finder

Cadetman,

Thanks for the info. I will behave.