1LO64

Hmmmm.....I'm gonna do the strapping/packing tape tonight and try a light coat of BRIGHT ORANGE marker paint for the bottom. It's funny, you would think that paint would weigh less than tape??

Bullwhip

Fiberglass strapping tape, Monokote and Ultracote will not peel if applied parallel to the leading edge. Apply the tape or trim and buff down with a soft cotton rag. Do not buff the paint, just the tape and/or trim.


Tom [>:]

jdix42

hey guys,
I have a problem with the stock stryker servos one of the while it still works, is a little loud it kinda has a slight grinding noise to it. Is it very easy to strip out the stock servos? If so i guess ill have to stock up omn them because i cant afford to go with a better radio at this point in time.
if anyonehas come across this problem please let me know.
Thanks

sjchmura

Actually the Aerobird prop is a 6.5x3 - measured it. So is there a "push on" 6.5x4 for some more speed? Or a 7x3 "push on"??

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

jdix, very easy to strip the servo gears. Don't buy servos, buy the gear packs for them.

AeroCat,
Did you read my version of retiming in the Stryker Resources tips section.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

redgiki,
advancing the timing will make your problem worse. It makes the motor work harder. Speed has it's price. Play with pitch to get more speed and less amps. Do you have a program like Motocalc? A lot cheaper to get in the ball bark vs buying props. And Kudos to you for using a meter, a tool all elec flyers should own.

Bullwhip,
Have you been watching me? I don't always kiss the ground. LOL

To all,
Tape vs Paint, both have there ups and downs. What ever way you go, getting a visible difference in colors top to bottom will make it easier on you.

AeroCat

My Feedback: (2)

GG, no I didn't. Where is that?
Maybe it's not a good idea, I was going to do it to my 480 and I'll be using 3s Lipo.

redgiki

I apologize for not being more clear. The amp draw is 10.5A on the 6.5X3 Aerobird prop. I was speaking about wanting to advance the timing so that the LiPo prop (5.3X3.3) would be able to put out satisfactory thrust at my elevation so that I could get AWAY from the 10.5A draw swinging a prop that's too big with too much pitch. Goal: run a "stock" prop running with satisfactory performance, rather than this battery-hogging Aerobird prop. It's a 12C battery, so I'm not worried about over-discharging (that would take 25 amps), but more about runtime without the "wallowing" I'm experiencing on the stock props.

I admit, it could be a bad break-in on my motor or something causing the high draw/low power, too. I'm doubting that, mainly because I experienced similar performance issues with the Parkzone J-3 cub: unless I increased prop diameter, pitch, or motor speed, the bird would just barely stay in the air at 5000 feet elevation. On the Cub, the solution which brought it to "stock-like" performance (read: able to loop if you dive hard first) was to swing an 8x6 prop, vs. the 8x4 which comes with the kit.

My experience with the stock 8x4 on the Cub went something like this: "Throttle up. Throw. Leave it straight and level. Maybe it needs to go straight and level a little longer. Hmm, perhaps I should add one click of up elevator trim. There the nose goes up a fraction of an inch... and back down again. Crunch. Ouch." Admittedly, it was a hot, muggy day in the middle of the summer when I first threw it, and cooler days allowed me to actually climb with the Cub, but that first experience was depressing!

Back to the Stryker:

126 amp-minutes on a 2100mAh battery / 10.5 amps = 12 minutes max at WOT until drained battery, or more like 10 minutes-ish until LiPo cutoff. 12 minutes at WOT until cutoff is very close to what I'm actually getting, which tells me the prop has to be unwinding at least an amp or two in the air, or it would cut off closer to 10 minutes than 12. But my Stryker is so much fun, I'd prefer 15 minutes to 12

Unfortunately, Motocalc didn't make it into this month's budget Maybe next month! Although Motocalc is pretty good for figuring out static thrust, amp draw, etc. and getting into the ballpark, you just can't tell if the bird is going to fly the way you want it to until you strap on the gaear and go, you know? I've already ruined the two props that came with my Stryker (the classic "oh, the prop looks fine after that rough landing, let's try it... oh, crap, no power! Prop's stripped!" problem); I want to see if a timing-advanced stock NiMH F-27B or LiPo F-27B prop (different pitches) will work as well as the Aerobird prop at 5000 feet ASL.

I actually bought the digital multimeter, in part, due to your recommendations on the "Way past the limits" thread! I also had a chance to meet a guy who flies really big electrics (we're talking .90+-sized aircraft, running at greater than 300 watts per pound), and he insisted that time spent with a calculator, a multimeter, and a timer set to exactly what you need are requirements for "big electrics". I'm finding that I agree, even on the small stuff. The kitchen timer affixed to my transmitter is now used for every run since I did amp draw calculations on my birds. It's the difference between a really relaxed, enjoyable flight with an alarm reminding me I have one minute left to bring it down under power, vs. a very low inverted pass when the ESC cuts out

I already have my Christmas list for building my Stryker version 2, using a slight modification on the tried-and-true template for "hot performing, cool running bird":
BP21 brushless outrunner,
Electrifly 40A brushless ESC (a little big, but I can use it for something else later),
Hitec Electron 6 receiver,
Four HS-55 servos (speed brakes! Their torque should be fine if only doing half an elevon, mixed at my transmitter.)
Balsa elevons

After I run it a few times, I'll see whether the other "nifty stuff" I'm thinking of (rudders, landing gear, fiberglass, anyone?) would work well, but I want to start simple.

I'm still figuring out what props will work at my elevation with the new motor when the time comes, and MotoCalc will come in handy there, plus weight is a concern given that I have power troubles with stock setups at my elevation anyway...

...but this thread is about the cool, new stock F-27 "B" version, not my first Dark Side bird And now back to our regularly scheduled program!

Just a note: the glow guys at my field report similar problems with their planes at our elevation. The usual solution seems to be to stick with the recommended propellers, and size your engine up one size bigger (.40 to .46, for instance) to spin the prop a bit faster. Thus my "advancing the timing" thoughts on a stock motor and prop. The large exception is the "big electric" guy. He aims for performance and long runtimes which would make most glow guys blanch, and it works. 20+ minutes on 8S LiPos flying around a .90 sized P-51 with large props, unlimited vertical performance, and a blistering 100+ MPH flyby. Wow. Impressive. The glow pilots invariably park their planes and start making comments like, "Yeah, electrics are very underpowered and no fun to fly." The guy has to charge a metric buttload of packs to go flying for the day, though, and never field-charges. We're talking a whole cooler full of LiPos, and a multi-pack charging array in his shed that costs more than all of my planes, chargers, batteries, and electronics put together.

Now to figure out how to pry the motor out of that rear part of the housing on my Stryker...

--
Matt B.

redgiki

My solution was to trace and cut out replacement vertical stabilizers from 4mm Coroplast (see "SPAD" forum for details). They are bright red. They are actually a fraction of an ounce lighter than the stock covered-foam stuff. But they are much uglier-looking They fit right into the stock stirrups perfectly, but I use a little sticky tape to make sure they aren't going anywhere.

I then used some bright yellow tape horizontally along the tops of the new, bright-red stabilizers, added some more to the nose, and added some to the underside of the leading edge of the wing. I can *finally* keep the dimensions straight after all this. The stock color scheme is simply awful for keeping orientation. Performance seems identical after my mods.

--
Matt B.

jdix42

thanks for the advice GG.
Where do they sell the gear kits for the stock servos?
Or do I need to take one apart and go to the LHS and match them up?
Does anyone Know who mans. the stock motor for the stryker , the back end is almost identical
to the permax480.

jdix42

Hey Red i got some stuff similar to coruplast that is a little more rigid it is 2 pieces of plastic with dense foam in the middle its about 4mm thick appears to work pretty well so far.
Ive made three sets of verts, and tried them over the weekend they worked fine.
Elevons are next on my list and if i need to eliminate weight ill drill holes across the center of the elevons and cover the holes with clear packing tapeWhat do ya think?

redgiki

Since I'm not familiar with the material you're using, I couldn't say. If it comes very close in weight to what's there, or there is not a measurable difference, why not? However, if it's significantly heavier, you might want to be cautious. Nose-heavy airplanes fly poorly. Tail-heavy airplanes fly once.

You might have better luck drilling out the stuff to be a framework for your elevon, and then covering that with econokote or monokote. Both are lighter than packing tape.

--
Matt B.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

JDIX,
Horizon carries them, part # PKZ1131, $2.49. lot cheaper then the servos at $9.99.
Check with your hobby shop too, them may be able to order them in for you.

AeroCat,
Go to the "way past the limits" forum on Strykers, at the top of the page you will see a blue box "Stryker Resouces", click on it and go to the tips section, I posted a tip on retiming the motor, among other things. Lot of good info there.

Bullwhip

Glacier Girl,

I am not watching you! My post indicated that SJchmura was a very competent pilot. It did not infer any discredit to your skills. LOL


Tom [8D]

Bullwhip

redgiki,
MotoCalc is a good program that comes with the basic information and access to user created data. Additionally you create a data base for your aircraft, motors, batteries,etc. It does the job well after the proper entry of data. Yes it will simplify selecting the correct prop, motor and battery combination. Experimenting with various props and a watt meter may prove far more accurate.
I use MotoCalc as a basic guide in the initial selection of the power system. The final system is still the result ground metered and in flight tests.

Good Flying!

Tom

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Apparently you're new around here, or you would know of my flight habits. Notice the inscription below my screen name.

jdix42

Thanks GG,
My LHS has just put some on order for me may have them by Fri.
Hope there not to tuff to repair.
Would you recommend replacing just the bad gear or gears or should I go ahead and replace them all?




Hey Red this stuff is pretty close in weight to the original stuff but i will be sure to adjust the COG before i put her in the air. No sense in chancing a lengthy repair at the field when i can probably avoid it.
its that whole ounce of prevention thing our parents always spoke of when we were kids and knew more than they did. LOL.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

jdix,
You bought them all, so replace them all. Just lay out old gears in the order you took them off, install new ones in reverse order. Apply a little grease to the gears. The very top gear( the one the servo arm attaches to) has a flat spot on it, where it goes on the shaft, the shaft has the same flat spot cut into it, you MUST line this up or servo won't work correctly. all other gears just drop on.

jdix42

Well GG that settles it then they all get replaced.
Thanks again

Bullwhip

Quoting Glacier Girl,
Apparently you're new around here, or you would know of my flight habits. Notice the inscription below my screen name.
[/quote]



GG,
Inscriptions are a personal subjective item.
I am not new here or to any segment of the RC Hobby and industry. My membership date in this forum is based on a return after an extended period. Your statement regarding a member of this forum was in error. I pointed that out to you and assumed that would be accepted in a cordial manner.

Bullwhip

AeroCat

My Feedback: (2)

Dribbe,

Do you have any info on when the p51/F27B Rx/ESC will be in stock as a replacement part? I've been waiting almost a month now with this part on order (through LHS), along with elevons, that don't seem to want to restock. What's the deal? I'd really like to fly and this waiting game is getting VERY old.

If I had known it would take this long I would have put that money towards other planes, but now I'm stuck with a half-built plane.

Thanks.

sjchmura

Aerocat

Do you want to buy a Channel 6 one off me for cheap? PM me. You can change the crystal with a soldering iron to get on your channel

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

GG,
Inscriptions are a personal subjective item.
I am not new here or to any segment of the RC Hobby and industry. My membership date in this forum is based on a return after an extended period. Your statement regarding a member of this forum was in error. I pointed that out to you and assumed that would be accepted in a cordial manner.

Bullwhip




[/quote]

Bullwhip,
I was being cordial. My flight history is terrible, I've Pranged (as we call them) more birds then anyone. I meant no harm to Sjchmura. My reference to being new here was the lack of knowledge of my flight history, not your experience.
Maybe we got off on the wrong foot here. Most of us that have been here for a while, think of the others here as friends, and we pick on each other, jabbing when the chance arrives. On the other Stryker forum, it's a way of life. I pick on Cadetman, about his troubles with airport security, AgCatsBest about his trouble with prop bites, Maineflyer, about fishing and so on.
You should read what they type about me and my spending habits and flight records. I think we know each other well enough that if we overstep our boundaries the other will tell us. Forgive me if my posts infringed on your thoughts of how I should have responded. And since this seems to be about Sjchmura and me. Let's go to the horses mouth so to speak.
Sjchmura are we ok, or do I need to make a public apology?

Bullwhip

Glacier Girl,

My commentary to you is that the gentleman in question is a very competent pilot. He also does not exaggerate his claims. I am simply stating that I fly with him, see the performance of his electric and fuel powered aircraft and have a great deal of respect for his flying skill.
Your contributions here and other threads are informative and I gladly pat you on the back for them. I will not comment on your skills as a R/C pilot due to the fact I have never witnessed your flying. So my approach is to take a person at his word until he is proves to be other than honest. I hope you will accept SJ's comments for fact and gain from the information that the F27 has an excellent life expectancy.

A handshake is offered in frienship. Will you accept it?


Tom

AeroCat

My Feedback: (2)

sjchmura, thanks for the offer but I'm just going to wait. My elevons still aren't in either, which is hard to believe.

I hope Dribbe can answer my question.