jdix42

Hey sjchmura
What are you looking to sell ?
My dad has just started flying my stryker and he may be looking at getting one.
Let me know if you want to get rid of just the electronics or a complete stock stryker may be interested either way PM me when you get a chance.

Jeff

sjchmura

GG
No apologize necessary - my RIGHT ELEVON STRIPPED TODAY!!! BUt guess what - normally I fly over expensive cars and **** but today - doing a "pre-flight check" like with my big planes I noticed "crap" that sounds bad.

Well, last week I promised to tell you when my overclocked Stryker blew and this was it, THanskfully it was just one servo. I swaped out the motor (5 hours of time) iwtha a p51 motor. I just realized it is "PULLING THE PLANE BACKWARD". CRAP.

So now I have a red wire into a black one.



No apologize necessary - I don't even know where the oil is on my 911 In fact, I do know the engine is in the back but that is about it.

That being said I do know somethin about driving it fast and flying my stryker 1 foot off the ground at full LIPO BURNING "STOCK" motor speed

Never apologize - you would loose your godlike status in my eyes Just help me figure out how the HELL to get the P51 FASTER!!!!

Also anyone know a bigger "push" on prop for the stock motor then the aerobird chall one?? Like maybe a 6.5/3.3???? I really really want to overamp the thing and see it go down in flames into the school!!!!!!!!! My stryker is looking so old I think it needs to be retired - Parkzone - do you want it? It may be teh OLDEST FLOWN STRYKER IN THE WORLD!!!! My insurance claims they will cover me

sjchmura

BullWip

No need to defend my honor - they are all trying to protect the people, cars, and homes around me as I overclock my poor Stryk(medown)er. TO be honest, I am not sure how the thing has survived this long (although my personal theory is that IMPACTS WITH GROUND OR OBJECTS SHORTEN LIFESPAN - but hey - I don't work for NASA - just a working theory).

Oh, and why don't you tell GG and the rest the story of you, the 50 year old tree, the landing approach og a 60 powered glow trainer, and the amont of Monokote (SP??) neeeded afterward ...

Steve

dribbe

Uhh.... you do realize it is the weekend....?

AeroCat

My Feedback: (2)

Sorry, I'm just a little frustrated and anxious at the same time.

sjchmura

Dribbe: F27B Lipo 5.3x3.3 vs Aerobird Challenger -> Winner ..

You win. Wow. Amazing. Even BETTER performance. I installed a new "B" engine too from a busted P51 from my friend.

The engine is barely hot after WOT 3Cell 12C lipo for 15 mins.

You were right - GREAT job.

So why is the SMALL PROP so much faster???

Bullwhip

SJChmura,
That story ends as one ugly trainer being converted into on sweet flying, good looking bird. You have flown it. Comments?

Bullwhip

Glacier Girl,

Sjchmura is refering to an incident with a tree that jumped up and grabbed my 60 powered bird. The trees at our club field are carnivorous.

Tom

dribbe

The prop was purpose made to match that motor, and that battery. It is just plane ole efficiency... It unloads the motor to the optimum operating point (Which is at a higher RPM at 10-11 volts).
As you note, the motor is pretty cool.... not wasting much juice, and will last a long time.
You note that the plane performs well. The prop is matched to the speed the plane likes to fly at at that 'horse power' level. The pitch speed is correct for efficient flying at mid and high throttle settings. It is 'hooked up'

Thanks for the note!
Have Fun,
David

sjchmura

Dribbe ...

I am "hooked up". I am SHOCKED how damn fast it is and how well it performs. You guys need to advertise better with videos and stuff. I can't believe this is an $8 motor!!! It climbs VERY VERY WELL TOO. I hope my Lipo lasts longer now that the motor is cool (started raining durign my first flight

I also have the controls MAXED out (farthest on servos, closest on elevons) so I can "stop" it in mid-air like a speed brake. Landing is almost VOTL. The Lipo Prop Lets me just enough thrust to hold the nose at about 45 degrees. I landed into a 15 mph wind today from about 100 feet - no more then 10 feet off my mark or 10 feet forward

Is there anyway to tell WHEN a servo is going to "strip"??? I did a pre-flight check (yes, some of us do) and noticed my right servo had stripped. Swapped it out with my friends destroyed P51 (he has put 1 into a Light Pole - WOT and another into a Polo Ground Pole WOT) and it works fine.

I could NOT for the life of me get the "sleeve" of the "B" motor back on Am I hurting performance alot without the "sleeve"?

Scottp81

I'm not sure where to look on the forum but was wondering if anyone here is from Columbus, OH? I would like to meet up with other Stryker owners to fly with and learn from.

redgiki

I had been playing with other props, too, and ended up back with the 5.3x3.3 prop supplied for LiPo batteries with the "B"-series Stryker. Even though I get a bit better thrust with an Aerobird Challenger prop, there is just no comparing the speed I can pull out of my Stryker using the LiPo prop. It is the lowest amp draw (about 9 amps according to my multimeter) of all three I've tried (stock, LiPo Prop, and ABC), and the bird sings much better with it.

The only takeaways: Takeoffs are a little scarier, as the prop zings a bit before biting into the air when you open up the throttle after tossing it. I launch from a berm about 7 feet above the surrounding terrain, so it's not much of a worry, but my launches off the salt flats look downright scary as I recover just a foot or two off the ground to blast skyward I don't launch at wide-open throttle, ever, after seeing the bone-deep gouges in the backside of the hand of a guy selling his Stryker at a show at our LHS the other day! Also, if you take that same prop and use it with the 7-cell or 8-cell batteries for the Stryker, the poor thing wallows hopelessly, just a little above stall speed.

But unlike the Aerobird Challenger prop, when I touch the LiPos and motor (yes, I kiss them, it's getting cold here and my hands are very poor judges of heat after a run), they're just slightly warm instead of exceptionally hot. Now it's time to advance the timing on my motor and up the amp draw a bit. 18+ minutes per flight the way I fly on a 3S1P 2100mAh LiPo, mixing WOT with cruising and bouncing off the strong slope lift nearby... that's too long for me. I've never even reached the cutoff with this prop (though I've come close). I just land the bird when the power drops off a bit because I'm done flying before she is!

So after much testing... I'm believing Dribbe. Sad I went through so many flights figuring out he was right. Oh well!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Okey Dokey

fstmn903

what is the biggest motor you can put on the f27 stryker?

dribbe

So have you guys tried the inverted harrier to catch landing? Increase thows... milk it into high alpha inverted.... ussually 3/4 throttle to get a good descent.... uhhh and remember to chop the throttle at the end!

I have only ever stripped servos in a crash... and I fly a LOT.

jdix42

HEy dribbe,
I'd like to see some video of that landing sounds pretty cool.
If you can would you post some video of it in the future ?

sjchmura

Dribbe.

If I can prove (with photos) my stryker has NEVER been damaged will Parkzone give me a new servo? Seems only fair

dribbe

You should call product support and ask them! (Maybe they'll send you a gear set....)
FWIW, I have seen people strip gears by moving the surface or servo by hand on a lot of models... lots of times... just rough handling, no damage to aircraft.
I am not saying that happened in your case.... just saying that damage to aircraft is not the only way to strip a servo.

Have Fun,
David

sjchmura

THanks David, I will call.

I am VERY paranoid about having the transmitter ON before the plane (to prevent stripping).

Do you think the max control surfaces are too much for the stock gears??? (outside hold on servo, inside on elevon)

Have you tried a "vertical landing" with the lipo prop??

1. Hold nose at 45 Degrees into a 10 MPGH headwind. Use the throttle to keept he decent straight.

ALOT of left right needed to keep wings level.

Lands like a puff ball pancake - CHOP THE THROTTLE JUST BEFORE LANDING so the nose "levels" - simply amazing

Steve

redgiki

I was just doing the "vertical landing" (I believe it's actually called a "Harrier" ) just a few minutes ago this morning. I had never done it before, and I was really surprised at how easy it is with the Stryker! From my subsequent reading, this appears to be a property of delta-wings. I had zero wind, though, so I didn't manage "vertical", but I did manage "creeping forward at walking speed". Got it about a foot from the ground, killed the throttle, and it landed beautifully.

Of course, the second time I tried it, I didn't have enough throttle going, and it pancaked from about five feet If it had been over the traditional waist-high Tooele, UT grass, it would have been fine, but I had it over the one patch of rocks in the whole field! One rock punched a nice-sized hole in the wing I'll need to repair later.

However, having landed this way now, I don't think I want to go back to the old-style "cruise it in too fast and scrape the bottom up" landing again. I lost too many fins, damaged the nose too much, and scraped up the bottom of my fuselage too badly. It's amazing how this thing can creep in on the edge of a stall, and NOT stall! You just can't really turn it much without nosing over once you have it Harrier-ing. Except for my final landing, I kept my practice runs high so I'd have enough room to nose-down and climb out.

A guy at the local field complained that the Stryker had an "unpredictable tip-stall" at low speeds. Now, I don't think he knows what he was talking about. I suspect he simply didn't understand aerodynamics: if you make the turn to final at too slow a speed, your inner wing will always drop. The thing seems perfectly stable in slow, nearly-stalled flight if you're not turning (unlike warbirds, which tend to always drop a wing and augur in). I don't think there are many planes other than autogyros that won't have the inner wing stall in a too-slow turn to final approach.

I didn't have any problem with having to keep left elevator more than right, or anything like that though. I just had to pull up.

The other thing I've noticed about the LiPo prop is that I can hear, now, when it's not "grabbing" the air. At full throttle, you can hear this kind of "ripping" sound in the air, until the plane comes up to the speed of the prop. It almost sounds like there's something wrong with the plane, until it finishes getting up to speed and sounds normal again. It could be just because I've never overdriven the prop as much as I have today. Control surfaces at max, exponential set up on my Futaba transmitter, wide-open throttle almost 100% of the time... it was a wild, 3-rolls-per-second ride!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

That's one we haven't figured out yet.

jdix42

Does anybody know?
I have from batterspace.com 1100mah 8.4v battery packs and two 900mah stock packs i have a charger from batteryspace that will charge at .9 or 1.8 amps.
they say to charge the 1100mah packs at .9
the parkzone charger charges at 1.2
can i charge my packs at 1.8 without hurting them?
They say this is a very smart charger and will cut to trickle once fully charged.
Any help please

Thanks Jeff

Bullwhip

That is a 2C rate and will heat the batteries up during charge. Very few NiMh cells last long when charged above 1C rate. [:@]

Bullwhip

jdix42

Thanks i wont use the 1.8 setting dont want to waste my packs.

AeroCat

My Feedback: (2)

Dribbe,

Do you know if the Rx/ESC in the Super Decathlon is Lipo compatible? Have you guys done any testing on this? The manual says it has a jumper for 3cell Lipo, but I'm not sure.