GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
04-26-2006, 07:20 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
I'm building my first Slow Stick, and the manual is a bit scanty in places. So it's going kinda ...Slow.
How far from the nose should I position the main wing?
The manual says to install the push rods, then later, in the section on adjusting COG, it says to reposition the servo tray. Well, the servos won't move very far with the push rods in - about as far as the flaps can turn!
Anybody got advice for a Slow-Newbie?
How far from the nose should I position the main wing?
The manual says to install the push rods, then later, in the section on adjusting COG, it says to reposition the servo tray. Well, the servos won't move very far with the push rods in - about as far as the flaps can turn!
Anybody got advice for a Slow-Newbie?
04-27-2006, 12:32 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Netdudeuk,
On the first test flight, the Not So Slow Stick FELT like 80 MPH! (Compared to the normal Slow Stick or the Slow Stick Plus).
Dave
On the first test flight, the Not So Slow Stick FELT like 80 MPH! (Compared to the normal Slow Stick or the Slow Stick Plus).
Dave
04-27-2006, 01:30 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
khalsans
Make it 4.5 inches from the front but you will have some flexibility. Balance the model with the radio gear if you can rather than adding balast.
Make it 4.5 inches from the front but you will have some flexibility. Balance the model with the radio gear if you can rather than adding balast.
04-27-2006, 09:04 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Thanks a lot. It makes more sense to me to balance with the batteries rather than moving the servos.
When I began building, I noticed that the aluminum frame was a bit warped. I tried EVER so lightly to straighten it and sure enough, I creased it. Less than one minute out of the box & it's boogered up. It seems strong enough for now, but I'm considering buying a replacement Parkzone Slo-V carbon fiber franme (cheap - $11 or so). Any comments on this idea?
I could not find the 3/8" square aluminum locally, and I considered using solid balsa with CF rod reinforcement, but decided that it was just not strong.
First, I'll go ahead & finish out the kit as-is & get some experience with it.
When I began building, I noticed that the aluminum frame was a bit warped. I tried EVER so lightly to straighten it and sure enough, I creased it. Less than one minute out of the box & it's boogered up. It seems strong enough for now, but I'm considering buying a replacement Parkzone Slo-V carbon fiber franme (cheap - $11 or so). Any comments on this idea?
I could not find the 3/8" square aluminum locally, and I considered using solid balsa with CF rod reinforcement, but decided that it was just not strong.
First, I'll go ahead & finish out the kit as-is & get some experience with it.
04-27-2006, 01:31 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
ORIGINAL: khalsans
Thanks a lot. It makes more sense to me to balance with the batteries rather than moving the servos.
When I began building, I noticed that the aluminum frame was a bit warped. I tried EVER so lightly to straighten it and sure enough, I creased it. Less than one minute out of the box & it's boogered up.
Thanks a lot. It makes more sense to me to balance with the batteries rather than moving the servos.
When I began building, I noticed that the aluminum frame was a bit warped. I tried EVER so lightly to straighten it and sure enough, I creased it. Less than one minute out of the box & it's boogered up.
ORIGINAL: khalsans
It seems strong enough for now, but I'm considering buying a replacement Parkzone Slo-V carbon fiber franme (cheap - $11 or so). Any comments on this idea?
It seems strong enough for now, but I'm considering buying a replacement Parkzone Slo-V carbon fiber franme (cheap - $11 or so). Any comments on this idea?
Is this your first bird ? If so, you should be pretty pleased with the SS if you set it up right and maiden it on a calm day.
It's soothing to just take it around the field at a slow pace. When you are proficient then take it up to a brushless version and have a blast with it.
04-27-2006, 05:53 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
They are different sizes? Well, another one of my brilliant R/C ideas...
Glad you told me before I ordered it.
I gues I'm SOL as far as replacing it, if it's 10mm - if I find something 3/8", the plastic pieces probably won't fit properly on it.
<>Is this your first bird ?
I guess I'm a master builder - I put together my Aerobird Challenger with no help at all
Glad you told me before I ordered it.
I gues I'm SOL as far as replacing it, if it's 10mm - if I find something 3/8", the plastic pieces probably won't fit properly on it.
<>Is this your first bird ?
I guess I'm a master builder - I put together my Aerobird Challenger with no help at all
04-28-2006, 03:37 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
I suspect that you will find this a more pleasing bird. It's a 'proper' model and you can think about improving it later. AP, ailerons, LiPo / brushless, etc.
05-01-2006, 02:54 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi netdudeuk,
I read the "Slow Stick" 80 MPH/radar write-up and have a question about how the (realitively stock airframe) "Slow Stick" was able to do this and stay together. My "Slow Stick Plus" with a brushless motor and 3 cell LiPol battery exhibited very noticeable aileron/wing flutter when I did high speed aerobatics with it. This was even with hinge tape on both sides of the wing trailing edge-aileron leading edge junction. Maybe the fact that I removed the wing tips to improve the roll characteristics accounted for the flutter at high speed. This was one of the reasons I elected to design and build a fully symetrical balsa construction wing for my "Not So Slow Stick".
Dave
I read the "Slow Stick" 80 MPH/radar write-up and have a question about how the (realitively stock airframe) "Slow Stick" was able to do this and stay together. My "Slow Stick Plus" with a brushless motor and 3 cell LiPol battery exhibited very noticeable aileron/wing flutter when I did high speed aerobatics with it. This was even with hinge tape on both sides of the wing trailing edge-aileron leading edge junction. Maybe the fact that I removed the wing tips to improve the roll characteristics accounted for the flutter at high speed. This was one of the reasons I elected to design and build a fully symetrical balsa construction wing for my "Not So Slow Stick".
Dave
05-05-2006, 01:13 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
ORIGINAL: Dave Kovensky
Hi netdudeuk,
I read the "Slow Stick" 80 MPH/radar write-up and have a question about how the (realitively stock airframe) "Slow Stick" was able to do this and stay together. My "Slow Stick Plus" with a brushless motor and 3 cell LiPol battery exhibited very noticeable aileron/wing flutter when I did high speed aerobatics with it. This was even with hinge tape on both sides of the wing trailing edge-aileron leading edge junction. Maybe the fact that I removed the wing tips to improve the roll characteristics accounted for the flutter at high speed. This was one of the reasons I elected to design and build a fully symetrical balsa construction wing for my "Not So Slow Stick".
Dave
Hi netdudeuk,
I read the "Slow Stick" 80 MPH/radar write-up and have a question about how the (realitively stock airframe) "Slow Stick" was able to do this and stay together. My "Slow Stick Plus" with a brushless motor and 3 cell LiPol battery exhibited very noticeable aileron/wing flutter when I did high speed aerobatics with it. This was even with hinge tape on both sides of the wing trailing edge-aileron leading edge junction. Maybe the fact that I removed the wing tips to improve the roll characteristics accounted for the flutter at high speed. This was one of the reasons I elected to design and build a fully symetrical balsa construction wing for my "Not So Slow Stick".
Dave
Dave
05-06-2006, 01:45 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
What mods had you done to the wing ? More than just the ailerons ? Do you think that the ailerons done on their own would not compromise the wing's integrity ?
Have you flown with ailerons and dihedral ? If so, how effective are they ?
Thanks
Have you flown with ailerons and dihedral ? If so, how effective are they ?
Thanks
05-06-2006, 01:57 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
hey guys, remember that parts are available for order through most decent hobby shops. I replaced the alum. tube fuse and wing mounts for real cheap. the tube was like $3 and plastic tree "d" was $2 and I am back in the air. I don't build new slow sticks, I just replace what is broke as I have modified mine enough that only the black plastic parts and main wing are stock. Except for the one that has an E-Starter wing w/ailerons mounted up.
05-06-2006, 02:53 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi guys I am thinking about getting a slow stick. I am now flying a hopped up Stryker with Mega 16/15/4 brushless and tp 11.1v 2100 lipos. I love the plane. But some times I just want to laz around the sky. The slow stick looks like what I want. Has anybody put a bp 21 motor and lipos on one? If not what kind and size brusshless and lipos are a good set up?
05-06-2006, 03:37 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
I've done similar. I put a spare motor from the PF Edge 540T onto it and borrowed the PF 3S 1800mAh LiPo. It's fast compared with stock, it will go vertical and you can tear it around or just float around the sky and do that for ages. The 1800 does about 40 minutes which is better than a nitro model LOL
Go here and watch the SS video - [link]http://www.e-flightline.com/[/link]
Go here and watch the SS video - [link]http://www.e-flightline.com/[/link]
05-06-2006, 06:10 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
ORIGINAL: netdudeuk
I've done similar. I put a spare motor from the PF Edge 540T onto it and borrowed the PF 3S 1800mAh LiPo. It's fast compared with stock, it will go vertical and you can tear it around or just float around the sky and do that for ages. The 1800 does about 40 minutes which is better than a nitro model LOL
Go here and watch the SS video - [link]http://www.e-flightline.com/[/link]
I've done similar. I put a spare motor from the PF Edge 540T onto it and borrowed the PF 3S 1800mAh LiPo. It's fast compared with stock, it will go vertical and you can tear it around or just float around the sky and do that for ages. The 1800 does about 40 minutes which is better than a nitro model LOL
Go here and watch the SS video - [link]http://www.e-flightline.com/[/link]
Yeah thats what I would like. To be able to float slowly around. But also be able to go vertical. Best of both worlds. Thanks for the info.
05-07-2006, 04:46 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi Netdudeuk,
The wing that failed had the following mods: (My Comments as to the effects of these mods follow in red and blue)
1. Barn Door Ailerons were cut out from the embossed outline on the stock wing.
This allowed the crack to start in the 90 degree inboard cutout for the aileron as it created a stress riser. Next wing will have these corners radiused.
2. The center section had the portion that allowed for dihedral removed and the two outboard wing portions were butt glued together and reinforced with fiberglass tape to strengthen the area. This probably ended up as no change in total strength.
3. The wing tips were removed to improve roll characteristics. This weakened the wing and allowed it to flutter in high speed flight.
4. The leading and trailing edge carbon fiber rods were connected by straight thinwalled aluminum tubing instead of the bent dihedral angled thickwalled kit supplied aluminum tubing. The thinwalled aluminum tubing could not take the effects of wing flutter and cracked where the carbor fiber rods were joined togher. Next wing will use brass tubing.
If the model had a standard geared brush motor and 7 cell NiH or NiCad battery pack, just adding ailerons probably would not result in flutter and resultant failure. Upping the performance with a brushless motor and 11 Volt/3cell LiPo battery was another contributor to wing flutter. Some flyers claim that ailerons AND dihedral work O.K. for them. I believe that you should have one or the other and that having both will result in insufficient aileron authority.
Dave
The wing that failed had the following mods: (My Comments as to the effects of these mods follow in red and blue)
1. Barn Door Ailerons were cut out from the embossed outline on the stock wing.
This allowed the crack to start in the 90 degree inboard cutout for the aileron as it created a stress riser. Next wing will have these corners radiused.
2. The center section had the portion that allowed for dihedral removed and the two outboard wing portions were butt glued together and reinforced with fiberglass tape to strengthen the area. This probably ended up as no change in total strength.
3. The wing tips were removed to improve roll characteristics. This weakened the wing and allowed it to flutter in high speed flight.
4. The leading and trailing edge carbon fiber rods were connected by straight thinwalled aluminum tubing instead of the bent dihedral angled thickwalled kit supplied aluminum tubing. The thinwalled aluminum tubing could not take the effects of wing flutter and cracked where the carbor fiber rods were joined togher. Next wing will use brass tubing.
If the model had a standard geared brush motor and 7 cell NiH or NiCad battery pack, just adding ailerons probably would not result in flutter and resultant failure. Upping the performance with a brushless motor and 11 Volt/3cell LiPo battery was another contributor to wing flutter. Some flyers claim that ailerons AND dihedral work O.K. for them. I believe that you should have one or the other and that having both will result in insufficient aileron authority.
Dave
ORIGINAL: netdudeuk
What mods had you done to the wing ? More than just the ailerons ? Do you think that the ailerons done on their own would not compromise the wing's integrity ?
Have you flown with ailerons and dihedral ? If so, how effective are they ?
Thanks
What mods had you done to the wing ? More than just the ailerons ? Do you think that the ailerons done on their own would not compromise the wing's integrity ?
Have you flown with ailerons and dihedral ? If so, how effective are they ?
Thanks
05-12-2006, 10:40 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
ORIGINAL: Dave Kovensky
Hi Netdudeuk,
The wing that failed had the following mods: (My Comments as to the effects of these mods follow in red and blue)
1. Barn Door Ailerons were cut out from the embossed outline on the stock wing.
This allowed the crack to start in the 90 degree inboard cutout for the aileron as it created a stress riser. Next wing will have these corners radiused.
2. The center section had the portion that allowed for dihedral removed and the two outboard wing portions were butt glued together and reinforced with fiberglass tape to strengthen the area. This probably ended up as no change in total strength.
3. The wing tips were removed to improve roll characteristics. This weakened the wing and allowed it to flutter in high speed flight.
4. The leading and trailing edge carbon fiber rods were connected by straight thinwalled aluminum tubing instead of the bent dihedral angled thickwalled kit supplied aluminum tubing. The thinwalled aluminum tubing could not take the effects of wing flutter and cracked where the carbor fiber rods were joined togher. Next wing will use brass tubing.
If the model had a standard geared brush motor and 7 cell NiH or NiCad battery pack, just adding ailerons probably would not result in flutter and resultant failure. Upping the performance with a brushless motor and 11 Volt/3cell LiPo battery was another contributor to wing flutter. Some flyers claim that ailerons AND dihedral work O.K. for them. I believe that you should have one or the other and that having both will result in insufficient aileron authority.
Hi Netdudeuk,
The wing that failed had the following mods: (My Comments as to the effects of these mods follow in red and blue)
1. Barn Door Ailerons were cut out from the embossed outline on the stock wing.
This allowed the crack to start in the 90 degree inboard cutout for the aileron as it created a stress riser. Next wing will have these corners radiused.
2. The center section had the portion that allowed for dihedral removed and the two outboard wing portions were butt glued together and reinforced with fiberglass tape to strengthen the area. This probably ended up as no change in total strength.
3. The wing tips were removed to improve roll characteristics. This weakened the wing and allowed it to flutter in high speed flight.
4. The leading and trailing edge carbon fiber rods were connected by straight thinwalled aluminum tubing instead of the bent dihedral angled thickwalled kit supplied aluminum tubing. The thinwalled aluminum tubing could not take the effects of wing flutter and cracked where the carbor fiber rods were joined togher. Next wing will use brass tubing.
If the model had a standard geared brush motor and 7 cell NiH or NiCad battery pack, just adding ailerons probably would not result in flutter and resultant failure. Upping the performance with a brushless motor and 11 Volt/3cell LiPo battery was another contributor to wing flutter. Some flyers claim that ailerons AND dihedral work O.K. for them. I believe that you should have one or the other and that having both will result in insufficient aileron authority.
The slow Stick Plus is back in business! I've taken some photos of the new wing and its modifications.
These include leaving the tips on; using brass tubing instead of thin walled aluminum tubing to reinforce the ONE piece carbon fiber wing leading/trailing edges; "L" shaped piano wire wrapped with sewing thread and glued onto the inboard corner aileron cutouts to strengthen this area. (I originally planned on making a radius there to prevent a stress riser, but decided to make the wire stiffeners instead. See the new thread I added that has a more detailed drawing of this mod.). I also glued a piece of trailing edge stock shaped to conform to the top camber in the "V" shaped area between the wing center sections. Then I glued on a fairing made from the old wing foam skin to cover this reinforcement.
05-13-2006, 04:07 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Do come back with a flight report !
I see that you have a Tower-Pro ESC. I've just maidened something else with a Tower-Pro 15-18A brushless ESC and found that the 3S LiPo got so low that the RX and servos got well and truly confused - ie. moved to more than the normal max positions. This has an auto pack detect and I'm sure that the LiPo was fully charged at power up. Seen anything similar yourself ? Ive also got the higher rated version (manual set) and this has not shown this issue.
I see that you have a Tower-Pro ESC. I've just maidened something else with a Tower-Pro 15-18A brushless ESC and found that the 3S LiPo got so low that the RX and servos got well and truly confused - ie. moved to more than the normal max positions. This has an auto pack detect and I'm sure that the LiPo was fully charged at power up. Seen anything similar yourself ? Ive also got the higher rated version (manual set) and this has not shown this issue.
05-13-2006, 12:51 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi Netdukeuk,
Haven't had any problems with my Tower ESC using 3C LiPol batteries. This may be due to the fact that I never fly more than about 10 minutes per LiPol and avoid relying on the auto shutdown feature of the ESC. I use "Common Sense R/C" batteries and they advise against running batteries down to the cut-off point as it could be harmful to the battery. Also, I just got a new "Common Sense R/C" charger that has a cell balancer feature to guard against battery failure due to individual cell(s) going below 4 volts. Considering the cost of LiPol batteries, I thought that this would be a cost effective means for prolonging useful battery life.
Am waiting for a calm day to check out the "Slow Stick Plus". I really don't expect any surprises with this model as the wing replacement shouldn't affect its flight characteristics. Even though I beefed up the weak points, I will leave strenuous aerobatics to my "Not So Slow Stick" and use the "Slow Stick Plus" for relaxed fun flying. (Replacing wings is a chore!).
Dave
Haven't had any problems with my Tower ESC using 3C LiPol batteries. This may be due to the fact that I never fly more than about 10 minutes per LiPol and avoid relying on the auto shutdown feature of the ESC. I use "Common Sense R/C" batteries and they advise against running batteries down to the cut-off point as it could be harmful to the battery. Also, I just got a new "Common Sense R/C" charger that has a cell balancer feature to guard against battery failure due to individual cell(s) going below 4 volts. Considering the cost of LiPol batteries, I thought that this would be a cost effective means for prolonging useful battery life.
Am waiting for a calm day to check out the "Slow Stick Plus". I really don't expect any surprises with this model as the wing replacement shouldn't affect its flight characteristics. Even though I beefed up the weak points, I will leave strenuous aerobatics to my "Not So Slow Stick" and use the "Slow Stick Plus" for relaxed fun flying. (Replacing wings is a chore!).
Dave
05-13-2006, 03:55 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi netdudeuk
I am a friend of Dave K. It looks like you may be drawing too much current from your LiPo. Check the "C" rating of the battery and by multiplying that by the battery capacity will give you the maximum allowable current. Excessive current drops the voltage dramatically, ask how I know. I had a similar problem and it kept me confused.
Charlie Zaffery
[email protected]
I am a friend of Dave K. It looks like you may be drawing too much current from your LiPo. Check the "C" rating of the battery and by multiplying that by the battery capacity will give you the maximum allowable current. Excessive current drops the voltage dramatically, ask how I know. I had a similar problem and it kept me confused.
Charlie Zaffery
[email protected]
05-15-2006, 01:46 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
ORIGINAL: ethanc
hey guys, remember that parts are available for order through most decent hobby shops. I replaced the alum. tube fuse and wing mounts for real cheap. the tube was like $3 and plastic tree "d" was $2 and I am back in the air. I don't build new slow sticks, I just replace what is broke as I have modified mine enough that only the black plastic parts and main wing are stock. Except for the one that has an E-Starter wing w/ailerons mounted up.
hey guys, remember that parts are available for order through most decent hobby shops. I replaced the alum. tube fuse and wing mounts for real cheap. the tube was like $3 and plastic tree "d" was $2 and I am back in the air. I don't build new slow sticks, I just replace what is broke as I have modified mine enough that only the black plastic parts and main wing are stock. Except for the one that has an E-Starter wing w/ailerons mounted up.
very nice to deal with!
Dave Kovensky
05-15-2006, 02:58 PM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
In reviewing the photos of my mods to the Slow Stick Plus wing, I noticed that the picture of the inboard aileron brace did not show the cotton thread wrapping too clearly. So here is a sketch that shows a bit more details. Keep zooming in to expand the drawing and it should be self-explanitory.
Dave
Dave
05-31-2009, 03:30 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
Hi all,
I am having diffcuities fixing alerions onto my GWS slowstick could anyone provide instructions and would it be better to mont the servos onto the wing each on the side or both on the middle like in the E-starter?
Thabks in advance for the help!
05-31-2009, 10:19 AM
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RE: GWS Slow Stick With Ailerons
You should use two servos, one in each wing. You can mount them with double sided servo tape or make up 3/32 inch plywood adapters. Cut out the ailerons using the embossed outlines in the wing. Don't use the preformed aluminum dihedral tubes, but replace with straight aluminum tubes. With ailerons, you don't want any dihedral. Personally , I don't think the foam wing is really the way to go as the wing will eventually crack at the 90 degree cutout for the ailerons. Check the string of write-ups in GWS Slow Stick with Ailerons for my redesigned "Not So Slow Stick" that uses a built-up wing instead of the original foam wing. It makes for a totally different airplane that reall performd with a brushless outrunner motor.
I also think there is an after-market built-up wing kit with ailerons that you can purchase if you are not up to scratch building your own wing.
Dave Kovensky
I also think there is an after-market built-up wing kit with ailerons that you can purchase if you are not up to scratch building your own wing.
Dave Kovensky