TIMTHENEWB

I am very stressed. I want to chose a plane for my first one before november 2005. People have suggested ones, then others told me its not good. This has been happening for about 4 months. I am about ready to give up, but i dont want to yet. I want a nice park/backyard flyer, as i do not have a large flying area always available. Also, i want it to have some power, i want to be able to try mild aerobatics after i get experience. I also want it to be able to withstand a beating. It would be nice to have a plane that actually looks like an airplane, and not a stick with a wing...i only have about $150 to spend


If anybody knows a plane with at least ONE of these characteristics, a suggestion would be greatly appriciated



p.s. srry for being so picky.........

AJ1202

Well you see the problem is if you have never flown before then most of the planes that are either scale or close to scale or just look like a real plane are usually not good first planes as they don't normally take too much of a beating. I am of course refering to RTF in the 150 range
The Cubs are a good choise but aren't really good first planes, but I would say if you stay on this forum and read up on threads related and ask questions after you get plane and before first flight you should do OK. If you don't mind buying everything seperate and building your own first plane then I would strongly suggest the GWS Beaver, it is a very forgiving plane and would be a good beginner plane. It flies strong, does aerobatics good and is so light that it's forgiving when crashed, I had mine inverted the other day using a heavy 9.6 batt and it started loosing altitude so fast I didn't have time to flip it over so I had to crash it on it's back and all it did was break prop and crack tail a little, a little glue and I was back up and flying, you can get all you need to put this plane in the air for about 110.00, or you can buy RTF cub for about 150.00
If you go toward Cub make sure it is Shun Da or Park Zone, I wouldn't trust anything else
Good luck and maybe you can get other suggestions to help you decide
Bottom line you need to decide what you want, then ask for help to get it in the air

AndyL

Tim, From what i've read over the pasty 2 years, the Wing Dragon from Hobby Lobby is the plane I'd recommend. Large wing area, good power, docile, loops and inverted flight, ready to fly for $120. If you want to spend more, the BeginAir is the same thing but with 4 channels. Like everyone else, I'd also recommend the Slow Stick, which I have, but you don't want a stick.

Time Pilot

There is no perfect plane. You choose one that you think you'll be able to learn on and go from there. My first year was spent flying 3 channel planes.

AgCat1982

The problem here is you are asking for too much for the money you want to spend. Your demands are too high. The planes that are good for a beginner to learn with are not going to necessarily look like a "real" plane. The wing dragon probably would be ok, but, again, you want something to fly in your backyard and I don't know if it will fly slow enough for that. I just love my slow stick and it will fly very slow if you want it to. But, you said "no sticks". If you were to choose one, be sure to get the 350 one, not the 400. It flies just as good, if not better (in my opinion) and it is lighter so flies slower. I added a little brushless later and it will go vertical now!

As the previous poster said, you are just going to have to make up your own mind with the information people have given you. THEN come back here and you will get tons of help. Just don't expect too much for $150. There are reasons that planes cost more. They are bigger and/or better, depending on what you want.

If you keep waiting for someone to name the PERFECT plane, you will be here a long time. These guys/gals will NEVER come to a unanimous decision for that.

Good luck

tims880

If you are a spaz like I was. then the wing on a stick is the way to go. The firebird commander is a very easy plane to learn on, and it will withstand many crashes. You can buy them on ebay for 99 bucks so you are not out alot of money. Once you get the basics down you will be ready to move on. Or you can do like I did and buy something way out of your league like a stryker and have nothing but problems.
I started with a stryker crashed and burned. Backed up a few steps and bought a commander this plane gave me the skills and confidence to move on. So next I bought a challenger off ebay. Mastered this baby and upgraded it. Now Im gonna go back to the styrker. With alot more knowledge.
Alot of people slam the hobbyzone products. I for one like them. They teach the basics of flying and prepare you to move on!

AgCat1982

Hobbyzone planes are fine if you get one with good electronics. That's the problem. Many don't and get discouraged when it won't fly right. I had that problem.

The question I would have is, with the one you recommend, can he fly it in a backyard setting? That is one of his stipulations. I only had the AeroBird Challenger, so I don't know. I know you can't with that one.

AJ1202

The Commander probably wouldn't work in the back yard unless it was a big yard, it can be flown slow once you get the hang if it but I never tried to fly mine in confined space
small space = slow plane like slow stick or slow V or as I said before the GWS Beaver, it can fly in small spaces because it can fly very slow and stay airborne relativly easy

rmenke

My Feedback: (13)

Please go back and re-read what the RCU people are trying to tell you. You are a novice that apparently has a problem in taking a direction based on very good advise. You want to spend $150.00 and get the best of all worlds. Yes, you can do this if you know what you are doing. You simply can not buy new stuff for this amount and end up with anything worth blowing up. The RTF radios, servos, controllers and related gear are almost unuseable in anything beyond their short life in the RTF. Recently bought my grandson a Shun Da RFT. The airplane design is good. The transmitter is ok for me being very old and experienced. If you learn on this, moving up to a normal transmitter will be a whole new world, and efforts generally waisted. I would not use the transmitter in any future application. In general it will work as advertised, but will not work very well. So you learn to fly and want to move up. You will find the motor, controller, servos you have purchassed are basically junk. What I did was go through the stuff laying around and give grandson a old but good transmitter, receiver, battery and servos I no longer use, and build him a plane. The radio and receiver cost me $25.00 at a club auction, a Futaba 6 channel. Not great, but well worth money and good for years to come as he is learning. There is good gear out there at reasonable prices on ebay RCU and your local club. You want to be able to walk out into your back yard and learn to fly. Get real. You need to join your local rc club first, attend some meetings, let the guys know you re looking for gear. Last one that came to our club in this manner walked out with everything he needed in the first few meetings at a very small price, mostly everything donated. What he did get was priceless, lots of help and good advice from the club members. If you do not have a simulator to learn the basics on, your chances of learning to fly in your back yard are almost nil. The help needed is at the clubhouse and field. Membeers will help you learn to fly with a "buddy box" and save your equipment despite yourself. Modelers are great people as a general group, but will shy away from jerks. Some clubs even have complete trainer systems made available to someone wanting the learn how to fly. These are generally glow powered, but what the heck, you can learn quickly for little if you listen and make the effort. If you find the local club to be a bunch of "Old guys", think of them as your extended grandfather. If you cant get along with them, consider going to your local lake and swim out to the middle and practice holding your breath for a hour or so.

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

Here comes the WHOLE BALL OF WAX, so get a cup of coffee because I am going to address all the things you need to know. If you want to come to Long Island for a day, I will give you personal assistance and get you flying in minutes with any of the planes that I will list, assuming the weather conditions are right.


But first I have a few questions.

1) how much open space do you have in feet, or football fields or something I can understand. New flyers need lots of space.
2) Can you follow instructions? If you can, you can do well. If you are too "smart" to follow instructions, put you $150 into something else.
3) Can you wait for a calm day to fly. If not, put your $150 into something else.

Now for too much information - Ready?


Getting your first plane? What should you get?

If you have an instructor, follow his/her advice as to what to get as your
plane. Getting info here is good, but discuss it with the instructor before
you buy.

RTF, ARF or KIT? What does this mean?

An RTF, Ready-To-Fly, typically requires virtually no building. Everything is
built. You attach the wing and perhaps the tail and you are done. Typical
investment of time is 15 minutes to 2 hours. The Aerobird Challenger is a
good example of an RTF plane.
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...p?prod=HBZ3500
RTFs ALWAYS include an installed radio system an may also inclued the battery
and charger.

ARF vs kit. How are they different? Depends on your definition.

ARFs and kits always require you to buy and install the electroncis. However
some of the makers, such as Mountain Models and GWS, offer select packages
that include the kit and the electronics. You still have to assemble/build,
but all the guess work is taken out of what electronics to buy. This makes it
very easy for the first time builder to get it right. The radio itself is
usually not included in these "complete packages"

Most wood KITS are a box of sticks and sheet parts that are cut from larger
sheets. You glue them together to form the structure then you cover it with
heat shrink film, some other covering, or paint the finished structure. Build
time could run 10-30 hours including gluing, covering and fitting out with the
electronics. The Mountaion Models Switchback would be an example.
http://www.mountainmodels.com/switchback.php

As an example, Mountain Models wood kits, are typically very complete and
often include the motor, the hardware and the covering material. For some
people, kit building is as much or more fun than flying the planes. If you
want to tackle your first wood kit, Mountain kits have an outstanding
reputation for ease and completeness. This thread talks about their planes:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=295225

Wood ARFs are typically kits that are already built and covered into major
structures such as fuselage, wings, tail, etc. Here you are doing final
assembly. The Ascent is a good example.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...ProdID=EFL1075
Typical build time is in the 3-10 hour range. Much less time and
much less skill is required. Then you install the electronics.
Here are some examples from Great Planes:

All foam kits, in my opinion, are more similar to ARFs than they are to wood
kits. They typically consist of large molded pieces that glue or friction fit
together. typical is 3-10 hours to complete. The Graupner Tipsey is a good
example.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/tipsy.htm
Some foam kits call for covering but the Tipsy, for example, does not.
When required, covering can often be done with tape which can be very easy for
the new
builder. So I consider most foam kits to be more ARF than kit. Multiplex and
GWS kits fall into this kit/ARF class and are usually very complete. As a
first step from an RTF, these can be very good choices.

Foam/wood kits are likely to require some stick and sheet assembly, but
typically much less work than an all wood kit. The Mountian Models
SmoothE is a good example.
http://www.mountainmodels.com/smoothe.php
The fuselage is wood but the wing is foam. Very easy for the first time
builder to be successful.

There are many other brands that provide very high quality products. I use
these companies as examples because I often recommend their planes.


SPACE

How much space do you have for flying? If you have totally clear space of at
least 600'X600', about 9 square acres, approx 6 square football/soccer fields,
then I
can recommend one class of plane. Call this class 1 - CL1

If your space is more like 200X200 (one square acre) then a different plane is
in order. Call this class 2 - CL2

If it is less than that, different again. This we will call this class 3 -
CL3

These are my own designations and are based on my subjective ranking of the
space a new flyer should have when learning on his own. An experienced flyer
can fly faster planes in smaller spaces, but a new flyer wants to have more
space so you are not in a constant state of panic trying to turn. Now, you
can get above the edges of the field and expand your space, but if you lose
control, you drop in woods, on top of kids or smash someone's
windshield. If that windshield is in a car is traveling down a road when you
hit the windshield, you could cause an accident or worse.

So much for space. You get the idea.

I don't recommend pretty planes as first planes. They are too easy to break,
too hard to fix and look bad in short order. So you won't see any especially
pretty or true scale planes. Make one of those your second or third plane. I
also don't recommend two channel R/T electrics, so you won't find any on the
list. If you want one of these, I would suggest the Firebird series from
HobbyZone. They can be very easy to fly and can be a lot of fun, but they can
also be very easy to lose. You should plan to fly them in dead calm air when
you are first starting.

I feel a high wing three channel R/E/T plane is your best choice for a first
plane. R/E/T will require a little more learning than the two channel R/E
planes but is a better choice as a first plane, in my opinion. These use the
same control inputs as more advanced planes and can be flown in more wind once
you have mastered them in calm conditions.

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

Below I list electric planes for beginners. These are ready to fly packages. They are near your price range. All of them
are electric. If you are looking for your first plane, you should find something here to peak your interest.

If you are totally new to RC Flying, these articles may be helpful.


RC Planes Are not like RC Cars
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=17

Stall
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=31

Launch into the wind
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=43

Parts of the plane and how they work
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=54

The RC Pilots Cockpit
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=59

Flying the Plane
http://www.rcezine.com/cms/article.php?cat=&id=64

New Electric Flyer FAQs
http://www.ezonemag.com/pages/faq/a105.shtml

Six Keys to Success for new e-flyers
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=355208


READY TO FLY STARTER PLANES - Electric Parkflyers
No building - they practically fly right out of the box
These also glide well so you can thermal soar
with them under the right conditions.


Slow-V from Parkzone - $140 - Space CL2/3
Best flown in still to under 5 mph breeze. This is the best choice for people
who only have a small space to fly or who have an indoor place to fly, such as
a gym or
similar space.
http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...p?prod=PKZ1300
Discussion Thread
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_20...tm.htm#2089493
Review
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=426
Video
http://users.cwnet.com/dhsc19/Slo_V_Aerobatics.wmv
Night fly module on a Slo-V
http://rc-galaxy.com/messageboard/mb...ViewMsg&num=-8


T-Hawk - RTF - Excellent Value - $170 - space CL1
Comes with extra wing, tail and battery
Flies well and stands up to hard landings
Can be flown on 27 MHz or 72 MHz
http://www.toytx.com/thawk3chrtf.html
T-Hawk - Without Radio - add your radio and receiver
http://www.readytoflyfun.com/wittran.html
T-Hawk Discussion Thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...ighlight=THawk
Videos
http://www.readytoflyfun.com/thawkvideos.html


Easy Star - RTF - $180 - Space CL1
Believe this goes easily back in the box to keep in the car
Super tough foam. Comes with 72 MHz radio in the US.
Good parkflyer and a good glider
Radio in RTF package can be used to fly other planes
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/240025.asp
Easy Star - ARF - Add you own radio gear
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/240009.asp
Amazing information site for easy star
http://www.mpx-easystar.de/
Videos
http://plawner.org/video/easygo.wmv
http://plawner.org/video/easystar.wmv
Mods, upgrades and more
http://www.mpx-easystar.de/
Adding ailerons
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...8&goto=newpost


Aerobird Challenger - RTF Electric - $150 - Space CL1
Great keep in the car plane - take off the wing and it goes back in the box!
I started on an Aerobird RTF. I have over 350 flights on my Aerobirds. I
also thermal
and slope soar this plane. Flies well and stands up to hard landings. Their
add on fun accessories for night flying, air to air combat and drop module add
to the fun!
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/prod...p?prod=HBZ3500
Review
http://www.hobbyzonesports.com/Disco...ID=1289#Page01
Discussion Thread
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147621
Video
http://www.parkflyers.com/html/aerobird_video.html


Now, if you read directions, follow instructions and have some patience, you can succeed with any of these planes. Some people will like one, some will hate the same one and some will tell you what a mistake any of them are.

You make up your own mind. Any will work, but the biggest key to success, is you!

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

There are a number of free RC airplane simulators. FMS is probably the best
known. Not as fancy as the expensive ones but it works and can really help
you get your aileron timing down. It will also help you learn to fly the plane
toward you.

The links offer other simulators plus sites that provides a cable that can
connect to
the trainer port on your radio so you can fly the sim using your own radio or
buddy box. I also list some exampels of low cost fully functional radios that
can run the sim AND fly a plane. I believe buddy boxes, which are not
functional radios, can also be used to run a simulator. Finally a low cost
used FM radio that has a trainer port would be an excellent way to run your
sim. I purchased a used Futaba conquest 4 channel FM radio for $10 to use as
a buddy box and to use on a simulator.

Then there is always the chance that someone at the club will loan you an
old radio with a trainer port so you can practice.


FMS Flight simulator Home Page
Free download
http://n.ethz.ch/student/mmoeller/fms/index_e.html

Parkflyers for FMS
http://gunnerson.homestead.com/files/fms_models.htm

Glider RC - Another sim. Have not tried it.
http://glider3d.free.fr/index_en.html

CRRCsim - Free flight simulator for MacOS/Linux/Windows
http://crrcsim.sourceforge.net/wiki/...RCsim.HomePage
CRRCsim - FAQ
http://crrcsim.sourceforge.net/wiki/...sim.CrrcSimFaq

ADAPTERS

Serial Cable/radio adapter +FMS and Preflight Sim CD - any plug - $35
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=5969881882

Flight simulator adaptor for Hitec/Futaba radios with round trainer port- $5
http://www.gwsexpert.com/product_in...products_id=654

Flight simulator adapter For JR radios - $9
http://www.gwsexpert.com/product_in...products_id=647

Convert a game controller to a flight sim controller
http://www.rc-airplane-advisor.com/u...simulator.html

Brand new, Low cost full function 4 channel radios that have trainer ports
that will fly your plane AND act as a simulator constoller with one of the
above adapters. These prices do NOT include servos, receivers, etc.

GWS 4 Channel Radio - $48
http://www.gwsexpert.com/index.php?c...2d893b7b73ea28


GWS 4 Channel Radio w/ FMS cable and CD - $69
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5916217443

Hitec Laser 4 - $60
http://www.servocity.com/html/4-ch_l...m_systems.html


Buddy Box with trainer cord - $35
good for SIM, but will not fly a plane by itself.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...dID=AIRVG400TR

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

You are the most important key to your success, not hte plane. A good pilot can make a bad plane look good and a bad pilot can destroy the best plane. So, success is up to you!

Whether you have a coach or you are trying to learn to fly on your own, you
will need to be mindful of these six areas if you are going to become a
successful RC pilot. After two years of working with new flyers at our club,
and coaching flyers on the forums, there are a few things I have seen as the
key areas to stress for new pilots. Some get it right away and some have to
work at it. They are in no particular order because they all have to be
learned to be successful.

WIND
Orientation
Speed
Altitude
Over Control
Preflight Check

1) Wind - The single biggest cause of crashes that I have observed has been
the
insistence upon flying in too much wind. If you are under an instructor's
control or on a buddy box, then follow their advice, but if you are starting
out and tying to learn on your own, regardless of the model, I recommend dead
calm to 3 MPH for the slow stick and tiger moth type planes. Under 5 MPH for
all others. That includes gusts. An experienced pilot can handle more. It
is the pilot, more than the plane, that determines how much wind can be
handled.

The wind was around 10 mph steady with gusts to 12. That was strong enough
that some of the experienced pilots flying three and four channel small
electric planes chose not to launch their electrics. This new flyer insisted
that he wanted to try his two and three channel parkflyers. Crash, Crash,
Crash - Three planes in pieces. He just would not listen. Sometimes you just
have to let them crash. There is no other way to get them to understand.

Many parkflyers can be flown in higher winds by AN EXPERIENCED PILOT. I
have flown my Aerobird in 18 mph wind (clocked speed) but it is quite exciting
trying to land it.

Always keep the plane up wind from you. There is no reason for a new flyer to
have the plane downwind EVER!


2) Orientation - Knowing the orientation of your plane is a real challenge,
even for experienced pilots. You just have to work at it and some adults have
a real problem with left and right regardless of which way the plane is going.
Licensed pilots have a lot of trouble with this one as they are accustomed to
being in the plane.

Here are two suggestions on how to work on orientation when you are not
flying.

Use a flight simulator on your PC. Pick a slow flying model and fly it a lot.
Forget the jets and fast planes. Pick a slow one. Focus on left and right
coming at you. Keep the plane in front of you. Don't let it fly over your
head.

FMS is a free flight simulator. It is not the best flight sim, but the price
is right and it works. There are also other free and commercial simulators.

FMS Flight simulator Home Page
Free download
http://n.ethz.ch/student/mmoeller/fms/index_e.html

Parkflyers for FMS
http://gunnerson.homestead.com/files/fms_models.htm

The links below take you to sites that provide cables that work with FMS. If
your radio has a trainer port, these cables allow you to use the trainer port
on your radio to "fly" the
simulator. This is an excellent training approach.

http://www.allthingsrc.com/webshop/
http://www.simblaster.com/
http://www.customelectronics.co.uk/

An alternative is to try an RC car that has proportional steering. You don't
have to worry about lift, stall and wind. Get something with left and right
steering and speed control. Set up an easy course that goes toward and away
from you with lots of turns. Do it very slowly at first until you can make
the turns easily. Then build speed over time. You'll get it! If it has
sticks rather than a steering wheel even better, but not required. Oh, and
little cars are fun too.


3) Too much speed - Speed it the enemy of the new pilot but if you fly too
slowly the wings can't generate enough lift, so there is a compromise here.
The key message is that you don't have to fly at full throttle all the time.
Most small electrics fly very nicely at 2/3 throttle and some do quite well at
1/2. That is a much better training speed than full power. Launch at full
power and climb to a good height, say 100 feet as a minimum, so you have time
to recover from a mistake. At 100 feet, about double the height of the trees
where I live, go to half throttle and see how the plane handles. If it holds
altitude on a straight line, this is a good speed. Now work on slow and easy
turns, work on left and right, flying toward you and maintaining altitude.
Add a little throttle if the plane can't hold altitude.


4) Not enough altitude - New flyers are often afraid of altitude. They feel
safer close to the ground. Nothing could be more wrong.

Altitude is your friend. Altitude is your safety margin. It gives you a
chance to fix a mistake. If you are flying low and you make a mistake ....
CRUNCH!

As stated above I consider 100 feet, about double tree height where I live, as
a good flying height and I usually fly much higher than this. I advise my new
flyers that fifty feet, is minimum flying height. Below that you better be
lining up for landing.


5) Over control - Most of the time the plane does not need input from you.
Once you get to height, a properly trimmed plane flying in calm air will
maintain its height and direction with no help from you. In fact anything you
do will interfere with the plane.

When teaching new pilots I often do a demo flight of their plane. I get the
plane to 100 feet, then bring the throttle back to a nice cursing speed. I
get it going straight, with plenty of space in front of it, then take my hand
off the sticks and hold the radio out to the left with my arms spread wide to
emphasize that I am doing nothing. I let the plane go wherever it wants to
go, as long as it is holding altitude, staying upwind and has enough room. If
you are flying a high wing trainer and you can't do this, your plane is out of
trim.

Even in a mild breeze with some gusts, once you reach flying height, you
should be able to take your hand off the stick. Oh the plane will move around
and the breeze might push it into a turn, but it should continue to fly with
no help from you.

Along this same line of thinking, don't hold your turns for more than a couple
of seconds after the plane starts to turn. Understand that the plane turns by
banking or tilting its wings. If you hold a turn too long you will force the
plane to deepen this bank and it will eventually lose lift and go into a
spiral dive and crash. Give your inputs slowly and gently and watch the
plane. Start your turn then let off then turn some more and let off. Start
your turns long before you need to and you won't need to make sharp turns.

I just watch these guys hold the turn, hold the turn, hold the turn, crash.
Of course they are flying in 10 mph wind, near the ground, coming toward
themselves at full throttle.

6) Preflight check - Before every flight it is the pilot's responsibility to
confirm that the plane, the controls and the conditions are correct and
acceptable for flight.

Plane - Batteries at proper power
Surfaces properly aligned
No damage or breakage on the plane
Everything secure

Radio - Frequency control has been met before you turn on the radio
A full range check before the first flight of the day
All trims and switches in the proper position for this plane
Battery condition is good
Antenna fully extended
For computer radios - proper model is displayed
All surfaces move in the proper direction

Conditions - No one on the field or in any way at risk from your fight
You are launching into the wind
Wind strength is acceptable ( see wind above )
Sunglasses and a hat to protect your eyes
All other area conditions are acceptable.

Then and only then can you consider yourself, your plane, radio and the
conditions right for flight. Based on your plane, your radio and local
conditions you may need to add or change something here, but this is the bare
minimum. It only takes a couple of minutes at the beginning of the flying
day and only a few seconds to perform before each flight.

If this all seems like too much to remember, do what professional pilots do,
take along a preflight check list. Before every flight they go down
the check list, perform the tests, in sequence, and confirm that all is right.
If you want your flying experience to be a positive one, you should do the
same. After a short time, it all becomes automatic and just a natural part of
a fun and rewarding day.

I hope some of this is useful in learning to fly your plane.

cosmic

My Feedback: (2)

Easy Star !!!!

Solcat

http://plawner.net/3/1st_plane/

TIMTHENEWB

thanks alot!


oh yeah, i have about 2 acres of land, am very patient, etc

this is prolly going to make you pull your hair out, but i have been looking at a parkzone cub...I have made a mistake in saying that this is my first plane, because my brother got a cox 2-engine wing and i flew it a few times....


Any suggestions about the cub? If its not a favorable choice, i will look strongly into that t-hawk, though it is out of my price range


thanks for all the info

aeajr

My Feedback: (2)

2 acres is not a lot of room for a new flyer. It may seem like a lot but the T-Hawk woudl probably run out of space in about 8 seconds then you would be turning very fast.

In that case I would suggest the Parkzone Slo-V. Better suited to your space. After you get good with this plane, then you will be able to handle the Cub, the T-Hawk, etc. on 2 acres you want a slow flyer.