F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Lord Hunter. [sm=lol.gif]
I giggle every time I think of that.
Get ahold of Greg Covey or one of the other moderators. PM him what you need.
I giggle every time I think of that.
Get ahold of Greg Covey or one of the other moderators. PM him what you need.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
EJECT EJECT EJECT
Did you remember to have a red streamer on the battery like Glacier suggested. I'm still looking for a ESC I ejected 8+ months ago.
Your in good company. I think there is nothing more helpless then to see stuff tossed out of your plane as you fly around.
Did you remember to have a red streamer on the battery like Glacier suggested. I'm still looking for a ESC I ejected 8+ months ago.
Your in good company. I think there is nothing more helpless then to see stuff tossed out of your plane as you fly around.
#53
RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
lol when my dad clipped the wings off going between the fence(ya sideways 2) lol well any ways on my firebird commander he took it into a big spiral (windy day and he was like taking the banks to steep wind cliped wing and it went he lost it from there) but there was a fence like this
____
|____|
but was all like a grid took i side ways threw it clipped the V tale and the main wing in half perfectly.lol and i had to go and put a decal saying ejection seat on the side of it well i came to inspect the carnage and im like ?!? weres my batt and (decals with line of batt) and i look and its 20ft away under the bushes and im like why did i have to put that there so now i been puting a rubber band around were the batt is so if something like that happens it will kinda stay put
(just another story to go along with losing things)
____
|____|
but was all like a grid took i side ways threw it clipped the V tale and the main wing in half perfectly.lol and i had to go and put a decal saying ejection seat on the side of it well i came to inspect the carnage and im like ?!? weres my batt and (decals with line of batt) and i look and its 20ft away under the bushes and im like why did i have to put that there so now i been puting a rubber band around were the batt is so if something like that happens it will kinda stay put
(just another story to go along with losing things)
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Here are some pics from my most recent build:
It is a Gen 3 from which I cut off the trailing edge and replaced with balsa. Others use bass wood but who needs the extra weight (even if bass wood is stronger)? Balsa is still stronger than foam alone. Then the trailing edge was wrapped with ultracote.
I made my own elevons (a little wider than stock), rudders (as you can see way smaller) and my own canopy (for better air flow) then wrapped them with ultracote. Making these things saved over an ounce of weight. 19.3 ounces RTF. Not to mention better air flow because they are much thinner. I cut off the air brakes . . . i mean intakes. I used packing tape for the elevon hinges for one clean surface across the wing to elevon.
Lastly I put a carbon fiber spar centered across the motor mount with a balsa stick running front to back formed into the foam. This mount is strong. I was doing a hover in a slight breeze and the plane flipped. I was able to pull up causing the bird to land like a pancake. It broke the APC prop and split the wood between the lite ply motor tube and spar. No broken foam. I was pleased.
As you can see there is no cool paint scheme. No other bells and wistles. I was tired of making super cool birds only to retire them, (usually through crashing) to come up with something smoother and tougher.Through getting rid of the air intakes, making thin small rudders, using packing tape on custom elevons, and making my own canopy this thing zips. There is nothing to slow it down on landing. But I wouldn't have it any other way.
I know it is long, so thank you for reading.
It is a Gen 3 from which I cut off the trailing edge and replaced with balsa. Others use bass wood but who needs the extra weight (even if bass wood is stronger)? Balsa is still stronger than foam alone. Then the trailing edge was wrapped with ultracote.
I made my own elevons (a little wider than stock), rudders (as you can see way smaller) and my own canopy (for better air flow) then wrapped them with ultracote. Making these things saved over an ounce of weight. 19.3 ounces RTF. Not to mention better air flow because they are much thinner. I cut off the air brakes . . . i mean intakes. I used packing tape for the elevon hinges for one clean surface across the wing to elevon.
Lastly I put a carbon fiber spar centered across the motor mount with a balsa stick running front to back formed into the foam. This mount is strong. I was doing a hover in a slight breeze and the plane flipped. I was able to pull up causing the bird to land like a pancake. It broke the APC prop and split the wood between the lite ply motor tube and spar. No broken foam. I was pleased.
As you can see there is no cool paint scheme. No other bells and wistles. I was tired of making super cool birds only to retire them, (usually through crashing) to come up with something smoother and tougher.Through getting rid of the air intakes, making thin small rudders, using packing tape on custom elevons, and making my own canopy this thing zips. There is nothing to slow it down on landing. But I wouldn't have it any other way.
I know it is long, so thank you for reading.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Gleebs
Nice job on the stryker. I like your new fins. Do you notice any difference in stability with the smaller fins? Also I did not see any air vents over esc area(toward the back) is everything staying cool? Again nice job.
JIM
Nice job on the stryker. I like your new fins. Do you notice any difference in stability with the smaller fins? Also I did not see any air vents over esc area(toward the back) is everything staying cool? Again nice job.
JIM
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
XH20MANN
I would say this is the smoothest flying bird I have built. So, no, the smaller fins didn't hurt. I may go smaller. I think saving the ounce of weight in the rear of the plane helped balance it out for li-po use. I have a hole in the bottom of the plane to keep the esc cool.
I would say this is the smoothest flying bird I have built. So, no, the smaller fins didn't hurt. I may go smaller. I think saving the ounce of weight in the rear of the plane helped balance it out for li-po use. I have a hole in the bottom of the plane to keep the esc cool.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Guitar, I wish my field was that big! *drools*
I hope to test out my new batt soon on the stock Stryker. The weather has been crazy recently.
I hope to test out my new batt soon on the stock Stryker. The weather has been crazy recently.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Nice looking plane!
GG, giggle all you want...Just remember that you nominated me so if I mess up it's on your head. Not too late to remove me of the title.
I contacted Greg about the resources move via a PM so it should be done shortly.
I just picked up a digital scale for $33 at Staples that will handle up to five pounds and does measurements in both ounces and grams. I've been weighing planes and parts like crazy and should have some interesting stuff to post in a day or two. Things like BP21 motor weight versus the stock 480, unpainted and painted fin weights, etc. It should provide a good resource to people looking to see how much weight they'll save using various upgrades and build methods.
By the way, on my latest BP21 build (pages 65 through 70+ on the part 3 thread with photos) strength (like the carbon rods and strapping tape) and ease of use mods in the field (like the canopy/nose magnets) was my main concern. I wasn't building so much to save weight but rather to make the bird as bullet proof and easy to service as possible. I was concerned that it may have got a bit too heavy than it should be but knew the BP21 with a lipo would push her along regardless. Anyway, to my surprise the ready to fly weight (with lipo and all installed) was only 22.2 ounces. The stock bird is listed at 21 ounces ready to fly so I've only gained 1.2 ounces. Considering my generous use of glue in the carbon tube channels and the magnets/metal contact surfaces that are probably a bit bigger than they needed to be, not to mention the empty front chamber being filled with spray in foam and so on, I was pleasantly surprised to see the weight was what it is. The bird is unpainted but I don't think I will paint this one. Maybe just the nose and fins in bright red to improve visual orientation in the sky. Still, I'd like some feedback on the build weights of other BP21 birds out there and how they perform for you. What would you consider the maximum ready to fly weight for the bird without drastically reducing glide performance, and what is the lightest weight you guys have built one too using the BP21 and lipos?
GG, giggle all you want...Just remember that you nominated me so if I mess up it's on your head. Not too late to remove me of the title.
I contacted Greg about the resources move via a PM so it should be done shortly.
I just picked up a digital scale for $33 at Staples that will handle up to five pounds and does measurements in both ounces and grams. I've been weighing planes and parts like crazy and should have some interesting stuff to post in a day or two. Things like BP21 motor weight versus the stock 480, unpainted and painted fin weights, etc. It should provide a good resource to people looking to see how much weight they'll save using various upgrades and build methods.
By the way, on my latest BP21 build (pages 65 through 70+ on the part 3 thread with photos) strength (like the carbon rods and strapping tape) and ease of use mods in the field (like the canopy/nose magnets) was my main concern. I wasn't building so much to save weight but rather to make the bird as bullet proof and easy to service as possible. I was concerned that it may have got a bit too heavy than it should be but knew the BP21 with a lipo would push her along regardless. Anyway, to my surprise the ready to fly weight (with lipo and all installed) was only 22.2 ounces. The stock bird is listed at 21 ounces ready to fly so I've only gained 1.2 ounces. Considering my generous use of glue in the carbon tube channels and the magnets/metal contact surfaces that are probably a bit bigger than they needed to be, not to mention the empty front chamber being filled with spray in foam and so on, I was pleasantly surprised to see the weight was what it is. The bird is unpainted but I don't think I will paint this one. Maybe just the nose and fins in bright red to improve visual orientation in the sky. Still, I'd like some feedback on the build weights of other BP21 birds out there and how they perform for you. What would you consider the maximum ready to fly weight for the bird without drastically reducing glide performance, and what is the lightest weight you guys have built one too using the BP21 and lipos?
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Not bad!!!
You may want to think about carbon tube down the center to lose the bow flex look after many flights. On the next build run your wing support rod from the stock rods to stock rods . Make it one piece ( long that you have now) all the way across.
I have lost the air brakes -I like that- a long time ago as I have worked to slick up the plane . I use a one piece alum. flat canopy front to back. I also use a flat 1/2 moon shaped balsa rear deck to mt. motor on.
Plane will glide in for landing from WOT to stop in about 150 yrds. So I have had to learn how to harrier down or SMACK something.
I think i have come up with a cheap -quick way to replace the hand holes on the bottom of the plane, which should reduce drag even more, and still be able to hold and throw plane. I will post pics during const. and on the final product.
Rebuilding BL gen 3 now. Stay tuned. Remember -A slick plane will fly faster and longer!!!
You may want to think about carbon tube down the center to lose the bow flex look after many flights. On the next build run your wing support rod from the stock rods to stock rods . Make it one piece ( long that you have now) all the way across.
I have lost the air brakes -I like that- a long time ago as I have worked to slick up the plane . I use a one piece alum. flat canopy front to back. I also use a flat 1/2 moon shaped balsa rear deck to mt. motor on.
Plane will glide in for landing from WOT to stop in about 150 yrds. So I have had to learn how to harrier down or SMACK something.
I think i have come up with a cheap -quick way to replace the hand holes on the bottom of the plane, which should reduce drag even more, and still be able to hold and throw plane. I will post pics during const. and on the final product.
Rebuilding BL gen 3 now. Stay tuned. Remember -A slick plane will fly faster and longer!!!
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
hi all, new to this thread. i have just recently acquired a plane with a cobal 400, some servos, and things of this sort. my goal-stryker, cobalt 400 and lipo style! do you guys think the cobalt 400will fly this plane? im thinking of maybe using like a 7-4 or six prop.what kind of setup would be necessary for lipoly use on this motor, and what kind of esc should i get? i would like the versatility of a multi-ready esc so i could decide later on lipo or nimh.please give me any input possible, and as always thank you very much for your inputs!!!
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Here's a few stock and aftermarket Stryker parts weighed for comparison...
Parkzone/Hobbyzone 7 cell "Sub A" 900ma Nimh pack with Deans Ultra Female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
Powerizer 1100ma 7 cell "Sub A" 1100ma Nimh pack with Deans Ultra female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
Dymond 2000ma 3 cell 10C Lipo pack with Deans Ultra female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
That is surprising as I always felt the lipo pack weighed more than the nimh. However, of course the same weight comes at twice the capacity and higher voltage to really make the lipo shine above a nimh.
Stock F27 Motor with no wires or prop 3.3 ounces (94 grams).
BP21 Motor with original length shaft (not cut down yet in length) 1.5 ounces (42 grams).
Thats less than half the weight of the stock 480 motor and a good weight savings while increasing motor performance in a big way. No wonder brushless motors are getting so popular.
Stock F27 RX with plastic cover weighs in at 1 ounce, although this board didn't have it's antenna which would slightly increase the weight.
Stock Stryker Servo .5 ounces (14 grams).
Unpainted F27 Vertical Fin .5 ounces (15 grams).
Painted F27 Vertical Fin .5 ounces (16 grams).
Not as much of a weight increase there than I expected.
My BP21 Stryker build (pages 65 through 70+ on the Part 3 thread) with Dymond lipo (above) ready to fly weight unpainted 22.2 ounces (633 grams).
As said, I expected the bird to weigh more than 1.2 ounces more than the stock bird after all my strength and other mods. Very happy with the weigh in.
Parkzone/Hobbyzone 7 cell "Sub A" 900ma Nimh pack with Deans Ultra Female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
Powerizer 1100ma 7 cell "Sub A" 1100ma Nimh pack with Deans Ultra female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
Dymond 2000ma 3 cell 10C Lipo pack with Deans Ultra female plug 5.1 ounces (145 grams).
That is surprising as I always felt the lipo pack weighed more than the nimh. However, of course the same weight comes at twice the capacity and higher voltage to really make the lipo shine above a nimh.
Stock F27 Motor with no wires or prop 3.3 ounces (94 grams).
BP21 Motor with original length shaft (not cut down yet in length) 1.5 ounces (42 grams).
Thats less than half the weight of the stock 480 motor and a good weight savings while increasing motor performance in a big way. No wonder brushless motors are getting so popular.
Stock F27 RX with plastic cover weighs in at 1 ounce, although this board didn't have it's antenna which would slightly increase the weight.
Stock Stryker Servo .5 ounces (14 grams).
Unpainted F27 Vertical Fin .5 ounces (15 grams).
Painted F27 Vertical Fin .5 ounces (16 grams).
Not as much of a weight increase there than I expected.
My BP21 Stryker build (pages 65 through 70+ on the Part 3 thread) with Dymond lipo (above) ready to fly weight unpainted 22.2 ounces (633 grams).
As said, I expected the bird to weigh more than 1.2 ounces more than the stock bird after all my strength and other mods. Very happy with the weigh in.
#64
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
B boy
Check the data on the 400 at mfg. site. It must produce a min of 19 oz of thrust as this is the very low end weight of a stock/non stock plane. Higher thrust is better!!! It is easier to fly at take off and low speeds. Plus it gives you more fun power to do all the crazy things you read in this thread.
I would guess the prop on a 400 would be a 5.5x 4.5 or a 5x4. Larger diam. prop and great pitch ( the twist look of a prop) make motor work harder-pulling more amps on battery & ESC. You need the data on the motor to decide on everything else-type of batts. amps for esc -prop.- even the size of wire you use will make a diff. on each elec. parts operation.
The less weight the better. Most of of the guys in here use Hitec 81's with metal gears. You can crash these guys mulitple times and they still work. Guess how I know this. ESC and Rx are up to you. Everyone has their favorites. Same on Transmitters. I use tower hobbies Electricfly stuff as it is very simple and cheap for what you get and what it will do. I have never had a failure unless I smack the ground ( another story)
Get some numbers and report to the flight line. Were here to help on a good day anyway!!!
Check the data on the 400 at mfg. site. It must produce a min of 19 oz of thrust as this is the very low end weight of a stock/non stock plane. Higher thrust is better!!! It is easier to fly at take off and low speeds. Plus it gives you more fun power to do all the crazy things you read in this thread.
I would guess the prop on a 400 would be a 5.5x 4.5 or a 5x4. Larger diam. prop and great pitch ( the twist look of a prop) make motor work harder-pulling more amps on battery & ESC. You need the data on the motor to decide on everything else-type of batts. amps for esc -prop.- even the size of wire you use will make a diff. on each elec. parts operation.
The less weight the better. Most of of the guys in here use Hitec 81's with metal gears. You can crash these guys mulitple times and they still work. Guess how I know this. ESC and Rx are up to you. Everyone has their favorites. Same on Transmitters. I use tower hobbies Electricfly stuff as it is very simple and cheap for what you get and what it will do. I have never had a failure unless I smack the ground ( another story)
Get some numbers and report to the flight line. Were here to help on a good day anyway!!!
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hey Critter
Great job on the new thread. I'll help as much as i can. I like you don't know it all - I still learn something everyday on rc planes. Maybe in 20 years I'll know half as much as Glacier and Cadetman. I know they have saved me a bunch of time and $ with their knowledge.
I'm starting a rebuilt on a BL plane and I am planning on taking tons of pics. for a step by step guide for my Dad and Brother. Plus for here.
Great job on the new thread. I'll help as much as i can. I like you don't know it all - I still learn something everyday on rc planes. Maybe in 20 years I'll know half as much as Glacier and Cadetman. I know they have saved me a bunch of time and $ with their knowledge.
I'm starting a rebuilt on a BL plane and I am planning on taking tons of pics. for a step by step guide for my Dad and Brother. Plus for here.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Thanks. Look forward to the photos and following your build.
I think that a 400 motor, no matter how much performance it gets, might be pushing it when it comes to powering the F27. I'm sure it'll fly but you'd probably do better with the stock 480 motor. If you want more speed reverse time the stock 480. That really helped my stock F27 gain a bit more speed and power before I went to lipos and the BP21.
I think that a 400 motor, no matter how much performance it gets, might be pushing it when it comes to powering the F27. I'm sure it'll fly but you'd probably do better with the stock 480 motor. If you want more speed reverse time the stock 480. That really helped my stock F27 gain a bit more speed and power before I went to lipos and the BP21.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Would the stock charger be able to charge a non-stock batt? I just recieved my 7cell 1200 mAh pack from cheapbatterypacks.com and when I charged it, the LED glowed like it should, but the batter wasn't warm to the touch. Do I need to get a couple of flights on it before it warms up and gets "broken in"? Or should it be warm already?
P.S. Cadetman, did you get my pm?
I hope to fly today! Great weather, but my dad's in a sour mood and we don't know why.[&:] I'll maybe get my mom to take me. She's a much better audience when I fly.
P.S. Cadetman, did you get my pm?
I hope to fly today! Great weather, but my dad's in a sour mood and we don't know why.[&:] I'll maybe get my mom to take me. She's a much better audience when I fly.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
OK forget that I posted that question on my batt. It was just answered in another post that I forgot that I posted in.[&:] Oh well.......
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hi guys, I am new to Strykers and I really love how it flies. I have a BP12 and am running 2 cell lipos while I get used to it. I've basically been flying it up high and trying to figure out aerobatics. I was doing great until I lost control close to the ground and went nose in on the asphalt. I think I might have confused the top and bottom and threw the controls the wrong way. I remade the nose yesterday with Ace Hardware lightweight wall spackle, repainted it, and added some bright yellow stripes on top for a better visual on which end is up
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
Hey all you BP21 flyers. I want to get my brother something for his birthday. And as I understand it the BP21 along with their speed control is good bang for the buck. What are some performance characteristics of this setup. Hover? Unlimited Vertical? or are most of you propping for speed? How fast?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
"Thumbs",
Congrats on your Stryker maiden and glad to see your posting here, too.
Yes, the stock painted Stryker is a bit difficult to orient at the beginning. Painting the underside with a bright color helps with orientation. Also try not to fly at dusk with the stock paint because orientation gets even more challenging at that hour. I see your wing tips are now yellow which is a good start. How much does your Stryker weigh with the spackle? You want to keep this plane as light as possible. If the BP-12 can handle 11.1v, go with a 3 cell lipo. You will see a huge difference in speed.
Welcome to Stryker Land.
Ray Ray
Congrats on your Stryker maiden and glad to see your posting here, too.
Yes, the stock painted Stryker is a bit difficult to orient at the beginning. Painting the underside with a bright color helps with orientation. Also try not to fly at dusk with the stock paint because orientation gets even more challenging at that hour. I see your wing tips are now yellow which is a good start. How much does your Stryker weigh with the spackle? You want to keep this plane as light as possible. If the BP-12 can handle 11.1v, go with a 3 cell lipo. You will see a huge difference in speed.
Welcome to Stryker Land.
Ray Ray
ORIGINAL: AndyL
Hi guys, I am new to Strykers and I really love how it flies. I have a BP12 and am running 2 cell lipos while I get used to it. I've basically been flying it up high and trying to figure out aerobatics. I was doing great until I lost control close to the ground and went nose in on the asphalt. I think I might have confused the top and bottom and threw the controls the wrong way. I remade the nose yesterday with Ace Hardware lightweight wall spackle, repainted it, and added some bright yellow stripes on top for a better visual on which end is up
Hi guys, I am new to Strykers and I really love how it flies. I have a BP12 and am running 2 cell lipos while I get used to it. I've basically been flying it up high and trying to figure out aerobatics. I was doing great until I lost control close to the ground and went nose in on the asphalt. I think I might have confused the top and bottom and threw the controls the wrong way. I remade the nose yesterday with Ace Hardware lightweight wall spackle, repainted it, and added some bright yellow stripes on top for a better visual on which end is up
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
The BP21 with 7x6 prop won't do unlimited verticle unless you build the plane VERY light. It also won't "hover" depending on your use of the word. However, the plane has plenty of power to climb, loop, roll, etc with the BP21 with a 7x6 prop and 3 cell lipo. If you want the plane to have more torque you can go to a (I think) 8x4.5 prop which will increase certain abilities and decrease others. After countless hours of research by others such as Cadetman, the 7x6 seems to be the best choice for speed and power. It is claimed that it will push the bird to around 85mph. I know I at least pass cars and trucks on a nearby highway where the speed limit is rated at 65mph at WOT. By the way, I don't get anywhere near the highway but rather parallel it to judge speed for safety purposes. Others will have to chime in with more info relating to the "hover" aspect as it depends on what you mean by the word "hover". I can say this, the plane has enough torque to nose up and straight out of a bad near ground situation. It also have several good seconds of unlimited climb. One of the nice things about the BP21 and a lipo versus the stock setup is throttle can get you out of a bad orientation, where as on the stock bird throttle at low altitude to recover is often a bad move. Put it this way, I can't see myself growing out of the BP21 with a 3 cell lipo, where as with the stock speeds I soon became wanting more. The BP21 has more than enough speed and power to do the things I want to do.
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
I heard somewhere that someone has a Stryker that will go over 100 mph? I thought that it was with the BP21, but I guess not. What motor was it with?
The Stryker isn't really meant for 3D stuff.
I was wondering, wouldn't pusher planes have difficulty hovering?
The Stryker isn't really meant for 3D stuff.
I was wondering, wouldn't pusher planes have difficulty hovering?
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RE: F27 STRYKER, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! PART 4...
ORIGINAL: flyingace451
I heard somewhere that someone has a Stryker that will go over 100 mph? I thought that it was with the BP21, but I guess not. What motor was it with?
The Stryker isn't really meant for 3D stuff.
I was wondering, wouldn't pusher planes have difficulty hovering?
I heard somewhere that someone has a Stryker that will go over 100 mph? I thought that it was with the BP21, but I guess not. What motor was it with?
The Stryker isn't really meant for 3D stuff.
I was wondering, wouldn't pusher planes have difficulty hovering?
I have at last count, 3 of them that would do over a hundred and one in the 150 mph range.
Just depends how much you want to put into it, money wise.
You know, something you guys may not realize. The fly, crash, rebuild/modify occurrences that everyone goes through is doing something for you. It's teaching you how to build/repair. It's something you will be able to carry on to the next bird you fly.
Why do I mention this. Well, 60 degree week long weather followed by a 40 degree drop in temp for the weekend, plus added snow and 40 mph winds made for a very boring weekend.
Not even the jet flies in that kind of stuff. What to do................. Build something!
In pilot lingo a "Flying Coffin" is a bird that is going to never fly right and probably kill the pilot, hence the name.
So, bored, and a little sick mentally, I built this out of fan fold, the "FLYING COFFIN"